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Winter rebuild


black86glhs

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Why would you want to do that? There is a reason that the passenger side is comprised of two pieces. It was done that way to help control torque steer.

 

Steve

I have seen the damage a broken one can do. I prefer less parts. :titanic: See below.

 

 

Ditto to that. Keep the intermediate shaft set up. As a bonus, the same axle will then fit both sides.

 

The GLHS is a 4 door sports car and handling is as much a part of its character as is the turbo charged engine.

Problem is that I have a 555 not a 525 in it. :shift: The original 525 is long gone. :cry: I currently have one L body 5-speed shaft on the pass side and an 88-90 auto shaft on the driver side. Previous owner made most of the mods to the car before I got it. BTW.....how is the injector harness doing John?

 

 

The word is that the bearing mount puts too much stress on the block. I have also been told by a friend with over 30 psi that there is very little torque steer difference.
Some people see it and some don't. I currently can't keep the tires planted anyway, so it doesn't bother me. I'm not returning the car back to 86 specs. :redcard: The car had too many things changed and I wanted to do a few myself. Mainly under the hood. The body and interior are staying GLHS. :shades:
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Hey StokedShelbyOwner,

 

Maybe that certain S car at the Vegas Bash has this mod. Might explain the lane changing under boost ;)

 

 

black86glhs,

 

Shelby's #001 GLHS with the HH 16v head has the 555 and it retains the equal length driveshafts. I've never heard of going back to the 80hp unequal length driveshafts as an upgrade. I'm open to new ideas so let us know how it works out.

 

Steve

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The harness is fine; works great. Thank you very much. If you are up to it, I need another one - 86 GLHS square type connector . . . . .

 

If the intermediate shaft's bracket is not properly torqued to the block, well then, yeah, carnage definitely will follow.

The late 89-90 Omni automatics have large spline axles that will fit your 555, so they are a trip to parts store away. That said, Mock GLH builds super duper large spline axles too; they are priced right, better than parts store rebuilds. You can pm him over at that other board.

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I kind of wondered if I would end up :stirpot: . Steve, several people have gone to the long axle setup and not had any issues. They make more :peelout: power than I will.

John, thanks for info on the axles. I'll be looking into that. I don't like the hit or miss of the reman axles. Send me a square connector with 3-4 inches of wire and it is a go. :salute:

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Update....Pulled the old block and k-frame earlier today. I think I need to stop where I am at and get some things finished before I tackle anything else...lol. :sos:

Degreased the frame and began welding duties. It needed the TLC!! :titanic: Had to fix someones previous welding attempts on parts of it. They had almost no penetration in the welds. Looked like a piece of metal tubing glued to the parent metal. :redcard:

I have new lower control arm bushings coming from Polybushings. Almost forgot, have new rear axle to frame bushings on the way too. I should have the trans back together soon and on the engine waiting to go in. Here are a few pics.

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As of today, the A-555 is back together and the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel are on the new engine. Installed a new Mopar front mount and swapped over the newer pass. mount from the old bracket. The K-frame is finished welding wise, but I need to get something to coat it with. Probably won't do much to it over the next couple of days. I have some Autocad projects that I need to work on. I'll have a few more pictures for your enjoyment soon.

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Here are a few pics from Monday my wife snapped while I was working on the Omni. As of 7:00pm last night, the engine and transmission are in the car. Boy does it look good in there. Still waiting on a passenger axle shaft so I can get the drivetrain bolted in completely. I may have a line on some nicer floor pans from a guy in PA. Hoping to go this weekend or next week to go cut them out. I'll keep you posted.

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Ah yes... forced induction! Carefull how much boost you run, you DON'T want to blow a gasket.

 

No kidding, Rob is running 38 PSI for the last three race seasons with a $17 head gasket. So don't run anything crazy like 57 PSI of boost. :shift:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another update on the rebuild. I am very close to starting it. I have it all back in but the O2 sensor and the rear trans to block bracket(I'm repainting it). The fuse panel, dash wiring, dash and steering column are back in. Cranked it over earlier(inj harness is out) and it felt good cranking. Not sure when the next round of pictures will show up. I'm busy with end of semester projects and other things. It is really close. :yahoo:

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Here are a few pics from Monday my wife snapped while I was working on the Omni. As of 7:00pm last night, the engine and transmission are in the car. Boy does it look good in there. Still waiting on a passenger axle shaft so I can get the drivetrain bolted in completely. I may have a line on some nicer floor pans from a guy in PA. Hoping to go this weekend or next week to go cut them out. I'll keep you posted.

 

 

My wife thinks it is hilarious when I am in an engineless engine bay too. She takes a picture, every time, and no other times!

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My wife thinks it is hilarious when I am in an engineless engine bay too. She takes a picture, every time, and no other times!
Both my wife and daughter were taking pictures. It was fun. Funny how it is so full of stuff now that the drive train is back in. :headscratch: :blink: :burnout:

Waiting on some 2.25" mandrel tubing to finish up the air filter relocation. Hoping to have pics then. :victory:

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Pics soon to follow. I went out last night and figured I would crank it over and see how it did. Cranked it about 3 seconds and it fired right up. Had to adjust the timing a little to take a small miss out, but it ran pretty good for having some vacuum hoses unhooked and nothing set. Need to get a 5040400 Dayco or 5040405 Dayco belt for the alt & wp and finish relocating the air filter to the pass side.

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Pics soon to follow. I went out last night and figured I would crank it over and see how it did. Cranked it about 3 seconds and it fired right up. Had to adjust the timing a little to take a small miss out, but it ran pretty good for having some vacuum hoses unhooked and nothing set. Need to get a 5040400 Dayco or 5040405 Dayco belt for the alt & wp and finish relocating the air filter to the pass side.

 

nice get some pics up so we can :drool:

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I was having an issue with my S not boosting past 7-8 psi and the check engine light coming on. I finally had some time today to take a look at the wiring and connectors. I remember tweaking the terminals on the red connector of the LM last year, but I must not have done the blue one. I took it for a drive earlier and it will pull 14 psi and runs just fine. Do need to make a couple timing adjustments to see where it runs the best(adjustable cam gear) and make a rub through protector(shield) for the lower rad hose. Hoping to get the last piece of the intake tubing painted so I can install it tomorrow. It will be back to patching the floor so I can take it to Cincy for SDAC-19, after that.

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I will have some time off school before summer classes, so a video may end up being made. Until then, here are some pictures of the completed intake setup I've been working on. Rather, that I have been waiting to put on.....darn school finals! :punched:

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great idea on placement of the filter functional and covers the ugly ass AC bracket lol.
I never planned to repair the a/c. After getting in running last year, I was looking for a place to put it. I already had the silicone hose(bought it 2 years ago) and had some of the pipe too.

Not to mention, there isn't much room under an L-body hood...LOL.

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I was a busy boy earlier today. I did some more floor work(patching for now) and cleaned up the dash. Well, after I installed the cluster trim and radio. I finally had the time to clean the carpet and must say I am impressed with how it turned out. This is the original 170k mile carpet!! As for the patching of the floor board, I'm doing that until I can find some rust free floors for it.

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