Hood Scoop removed...

[stump_breaker]

Stump, you going to be screwed if any of those real rivets pop through the scoop over time. The rubberized plastic doesn't appear strong enough for a tight fitting rivet.

 

I can see where the rivets are already embedded pretty deep into the scoop. If any go through with time, the only choice will be to use rivet washers which are ugly.

 

Just a thought as I am also working with SAI on my newly arrived scoop.

 

yeah. That's why I was repeating myself several times about not snugging down too hard with the rivets.

That's also why I'm considering having a "beauty ring" built for the scoop or stainless steel self tappers with washers so I can distribute the pressure better.

[savage1969]

I might can see a metal ring working, but SAI is fighting hoods that are not identical. According to them, each hood is slightly different and each scoop is slightly different. I believe this is what is causing their issues with their particular mounting method (bolts too far from edges to keep them seated).

 

I am not sure what is causing formerly perfect scoops to warp or gap after time. The rubberised plastic must not be staying plyable after multiple heat build-ups and cool-downs. ?????

[stump_breaker]

I am not sure what is causing formerly perfect scoops to warp or gap after time. The rubberised plastic must not be staying plyable after multiple heat build-ups and cool-downs. ?????

 

From what I saw it's not that it's not staying pliable but becoming pliable losing it's tension. It gets soft and looses shape since there is no support. If there were some sort of rib system or heat resistant plastic used (i.e. glass molded as mentioned before) I don't think there would be a problem at all or at least not this early in the game.

[KBCobra]

Everyone is using non fuinctional scopps these days and have for years. it is a design thing. Those that have the super charger installed wouldnt use a functional one anyway. I am not trying to be a jerk but this arguement has raged forever. If someone doesnt like the non function we luckily live in America so you dont have to buy it.

 

 

Webba - what's the beef? This is a quality problem and I am also sure that Shelby et al will fix this. I am sorry if you are tired of hearing about this, but since you are the one who quoted the Living in America bit, I guess you won't mind that I state my opinion to Shelby as one comment that can be used for future products.

 

BTW - Ford's Cobra II had those nice non functioning scoops and they were I didn't like them on that POS either.

[MattInDetroit]

Webba - what's the beef? This is a quality problem and I am also sure that Shelby et al will fix this. I am sorry if you are tired of hearing about this, but since you are the one who quoted the Living in America bit, I guess you won't mind that I state my opinion to Shelby as one comment that can be used for future products.

 

BTW - Ford's Cobra II had those nice non functioning scoops and they were I didn't like them on that POS either.

 

 

 

I think you misunderstood our good friends intent here.

 

The issue he's pointing to is MUCH bigger than this discussion and revolves around design and look vs. functionality.

 

Honestly I think the debate is BS and you might as well ask why we have colors! Heck, why not just clearcoat the bare metal...it's non-functional anyway right? What about all these silly emblems! Seriously do we think no one knows a Mustang is "Powered by Ford"? Duh! Don't even start on the rear spoiler issue...that's sooooooooo bad Ford added "Spoiler Delete"! :blink:

 

There are a lot of people, perhaps you, that would be TOTALLY happy if the Mustang GT was just like a base V6 with a better engine and suspension. Remember the Fox body days when you could buy an LX just that way! Ford actually sold a lot of those and today they are much sought after!

 

Then there are others, like me, that really like a little design flare. Something that makes the car unique or stand out. In the end it's "beauty is in the eye of the beholder", and functional or non-functional, when it comes to design makes no difference. That's the nature of design otherwise we'd have no iPod, Mac, Kitchen Aid blender, Bose, etc., products where design, functional or not, is the differentiator.

 

I don't think our friend meant to discourage you from expressing your opinion, we all have one, but rather point to a bigger issue that really has no resolution.

 

With respect...

[MadMax1228]

This may have already been covered, so please excuse any redundancy, but I have always wondered why Shelby added a fake scoop anyway? Why do it unless it was functional? I would be especially upset if this cosmetic scoop has the quality problems that the owners have seen.

 

 

 

I'm with you, KB! On the '03/'04 Mach 1, FOMOCO uses a CDC Shaker the "ROCKS". I went on to add one to our 2006 GT before trading up the the GT500. I hope I haven't offended anyone, just my .02

[Shelby-Don]

Stump,

 

You might think about #10 stainless carriage bolts with nylock nuts on the underside in place of your rivets. The carriage bolt with leave a smooth round head on the outer surface and the nylocks should keep the scoop snug. The tricky part would be to tighten the nuts without the bolt heads twisting too much.

 

Don

[zdle]

The correct solution for the Hood Scoop Problem , is to take a reverse outside mold ofthe existing scoop, create a platen , (Gurin style steel Mold of the contours) , and have a air craft hyro-form shop in southern California stamp out some nice scoops from 2024-T3 , or 6061-T6 , with 6000 cars out there , if the scoop were a nice piece (Natural aluminum , Black ,White ) some one could acually make a couple bucks on a product like that .

 

I do like the looks of this old style scoop , surely in old LA shop when the built the first shelbys some one improvized these out of Aluminum , and it gave it that "if it works race it look" thats what makes this fake one appealing today ..............I think it would be cool to have a real aluminum one riveted to the hood ........hell the wholes already there .

 

Anyone got the expertise in aluminum hydo-forming out there , Id throw in for that??

 

ZDS

[RogerS]

The correct solution for the Hood Scoop Problem , is to take a reverse outside mold ofthe existing scoop, create a platen , (Gurin style steel Mold of the contours) , and have a air craft hyro-form shop in southern California stamp out some nice scoops from 2024-T3 , or 6061-T6 , with 6000 cars out there , if the scoop were a nice piece (Natural aluminum , Black ,White ) some one could acually make a couple bucks on a product like that .

 

I do like the looks of this old style scoop , surely in old LA shop when the built the first shelbys some one improvized these out of Aluminum , and it gave it that "if it works race it look" thats what makes this fake one appealing today ..............I think it would be cool to have a real aluminum one riveted to the hood ........hell the wholes already there .

 

Anyone got the expertise in aluminum hydo-forming out there , Id throw in for that??

 

ZDS

 

 

I agree ZDS on the vintage look. There is a company on the East Coast who specializes in this line of work. He does a great deal of work for the aftermarket Cobra guys up here. I have posted a pic of his work on the interior of a 427 SC hood. Here is the link to his site.

 

http://www.metal-morphous.com/

[im4seven]

While I'm not a fan of double stick tape it seems like it would work here. (unless they have already tried that) You would have to use the thin stuff like they use on bodyside moulding. Seems like the bolts are to far inboard to keep the flexible lip on the hood. Use the good stuff, not the stuff at the hardware store. Down side would be that it could be very difficult to remove it if something happens.

[zdle]

I agree ZDS on the vintage look. There is a company on the East Coast who specializes in this line of work. He does a great deal of work for the aftermarket Cobra guys up here. I have posted a pic of his work on the interior of a 427 SC hood. Here is the link to his site.

 

http://www.metal-morphous.com/

 

 

 

You bet ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Id pay for that kind of work on my SGT.........................ZDS

[zdle]

I agree ZDS on the vintage look. There is a company on the East Coast who specializes in this line of work. He does a great deal of work for the aftermarket Cobra guys up here. I have posted a pic of his work on the interior of a 427 SC hood. Here is the link to his site.

 

http://www.metal-morphous.com/

 

Metal - Morphus ............what a great web , what do you think it would cost to buy one of these plastic scoops , and send it to these guys , ask for a price ,,,,,,oh say on 20 or 30 , and see what kind of interest we can generate to share the cost, and I would guess they would come up with a method to make -um quickly.

 

It looks like he is well familiar with Cobra scoops ......................ZDS

[RogerS]

I think he is getting $400-$500 to do the entire inside of a Cobra hood. Not sure. But he is doing a lot of work for the reporduction market.

[Webba]

Webba - what's the beef? This is a quality problem and I am also sure that Shelby et al will fix this. I am sorry if you are tired of hearing about this, but since you are the one who quoted the Living in America bit, I guess you won't mind that I state my opinion to Shelby as one comment that can be used for future products.

 

BTW - Ford's Cobra II had those nice non functioning scoops and they were I didn't like them on that POS either.

 

 

KC my point is that we are trying to discuss the issue with the scoop and possible fixes and ideas. Not "why use did they use it anyway"??! The scoop is on the car so its a little late for that. We have been round and round with the "why use a fake scoop" stuff. Do a search and find that thread and go to it. As I said I was not trying to be a jerk. The car uses the design cues from the original Cobra's not the Cobra II's. So state your opinion away but I am just telling you that it isnt helping the problem. Take your scoop off and do with it what you will and leave your hood full of holes for all I care. But I would like to fix mine and many other peoples on here who are trying to find a solution.

 

GLH, if you used tape you would probably need to use a 3m tape called VHB. Its a foam tape and string as hell. The flange doesnt look like it would hold well using the thin stuff. There wasnt alot of surface area from the small flanges to hold with the regular stuff IMO and there seems to be alot of unevenness in the flange. You also have those metal clips giving it a slight rise.

[stump_breaker]

GLH, if you used tape you would probably need to use a 3m tape called VHB. Its a foam tape and string as hell.

 

Would it be a good idea to use double sided tape on top of a stripe? It seems to me it could cause the stripe to pull loose eventually since there will be a constant pull.

[Webba]

You are right Stump I forgot about the stripe being under there. The tape will definitely screw up the stripe if you ever try and lift it off the hood. I am still thinking the material needs to change if it remains plastic.

[blueshawk]

Would it be a good idea to use double sided tape on top of a stripe? It seems to me it could cause the stripe to pull loose eventually since there will be a constant pull.

 

 

I bet if the stripe was trimmed to expose the paint, the 3M tape idea would work great. It probably will handle the temperature too since it is widely used on external metal surfaces of the car.

 

The S H E L B Y letters on the back have the 3M tape on them and they seem to be holding on OK to the stripes. ( I know it is a different thing). In fact I had to fix the "Y "which is on the paint because it was coming off. I used a 3M glue used to fix such things to cars and it is solid now.

 

This idea may be the solution that Shelby really needs to look at in conjuction with the current fastener system. If the inserts are deforming the plastic due to localized high temperature creeping. 3M tape in between the holes around the current entire mating surface will help distribute the load and reduce this effect. I would guess that you wouldn't even have to trim the stripe and this would work because the screws are helping clamp the joint.

 

The more I think of this the better I like it.

[stump_breaker]

I bet if the stripe was trimmed to expose the paint, the 3M tape idea would work great.

 

I think we have a winner! Wish I had thought of trimming the stripe because that is why I did not use the tape!!

You see, I should have bounced the idea off the board before I started.

 

Now if they made black tape as I would not want the white showing.

 

It's too late for me but maybe all this will help someone else.

[blueshawk]

I think we have a winner! Wish I had thought of trimming the stripe because that is why I did not use the tape!!

You see, I should have bounced the idea off the board before I started.

 

Now if they made black tape as I would not want the white showing.

 

It's too late for me but maybe all this will help someone else.

 

 

You asked for "black"

 

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...ler/output_html

[Webba]

Stump I actually have some of the black 3m VHB tape in my shop. We bought a roll a few years ago for a sign we made for our old building. The stuff is unreal. I think it is 1/16" thick. I can look tomorrow if you want a little bit to try. Caution though. Once you put this stuff down dont plan on getting it off easily. or maybe at all without screwing up the hood. You would probably need either heat or a chemical to remove it. Let me know if you are interested and I can UPS you down some.

[MattInDetroit]

Just in case!

 

 

http://www.v6mustangstuff.com/TakeOffParts.htm

 

5/07 Mustang Hood - Takeoffs

 

Hoods are taken off new 05/07 Mustangs with less than 10 miles on the odometer. They may have minor scratches or blemishes from removal, and slight buffing or scratch remover may be necessary. Many colors available to match your Mustang perfectly! Contact us for availability before you order.

 

$399.99

 

 

Hoods are shipped on pallet only and must be shipped truck freight. Must be shipped to a business address. CAll to check colors and order.

 

 

--just say'in..... :blink:

[Webba]

Matt that is a great site. I am guessing they get parts from people like SAI and Roush?

[Michael Morris]

when i was growing up down here in the south guys would do alittle chrome on the engine and then just ride around with the hood off. so come on down to GA and leave that hood off.

michael

[stump_breaker]

Stump I actually have some of the black 3m VHB tape in my shop. We bought a roll a few years ago for a sign we made for our old building. The stuff is unreal. I think it is 1/16" thick. I can look tomorrow if you want a little bit to try. Caution though. Once you put this stuff down dont plan on getting it off easily. or maybe at all without screwing up the hood. You would probably need either heat or a chemical to remove it. Let me know if you are interested and I can UPS you down some.

 

Thanks for the offer but I am past the point of removal without a lot of rivet drilling.

[blueshawk]

Thanks for the offer but I am past the point of removal without a lot of rivet drilling.

 

 

 

Hey Stump,

 

How is the hood scoop mod holding up? Are the rivets still tight or has there been any creeping of the plastic around the rivets? I'm wondering if Shelby is thinking of recommending what you did to solve this problem in the long term 'cause another post has a dealer adding rivets to the two that Shelby is currently adding for this fix.

 

I'm scheduled to have my scoop replaced on July 17th and I'm worried it won't be any improvement.

[Webba]

Blue the added rivets may be the added bolts they are now recommending you add to this. You have to drill out the hood bracing in a fgew locations and then add the bolts. Sounds like it is the same fix they have had for a while, which doesnt seem to fix it.

[stump_breaker]

Hey Stump,

 

How is the hood scoop mod holding up? Are the rivets still tight or has there been any creeping of the plastic around the rivets? I'm wondering if Shelby is thinking of recommending what you did to solve this problem in the long term 'cause another post has a dealer adding rivets to the two that Shelby is currently adding for this fix.

 

I'm scheduled to have my scoop replaced on July 17th and I'm worried it won't be any improvement.

 

 

The rivets do work BUT hindsight being 20/20, I would not do it again. In fact I drilled and removed the rivets and got a quote at a body shop to repair. The molded plastic is pretty soft and easy to mis-shape if the pressure is not correct.

Not counting I'm having to re-stripe the hood and touch up the scoop where the drill slipped then skipped but I wont go into that. It's too painful.

There are too many variables and the replacement parts are too hard to come by to take the chance.

 

Edit: I was still contemplating have a aluminum ring made which fit the lip of the scoop to apply equal pressure and the body shop thought that was a good idea as well but I have not and am not going to pursue it. I was also told no matter what tape you use, it will not stay because of the heat of the engine. It needs to somehow be bonded to the hood but that opens up a whole new can of worms. I'm just going back to the original look.

 

Edit 2.0: One other thing I forgot to mention is for some reason one or two of the rivets caused the paint on the scoop to "spider web" from the pressure. It's just too soft without something to equalize the pressure.

 

Edit 3.0: IF you do decide to do it, use bolts so you can manipulate the pressure.

[Webba]

I seem to recall a thread on THS where they had issues with the factory scoop from Ford on the regular GT's as well so we arent alone.

[MattInDetroit]

 

The S H E L B Y letters on the back have the 3M tape on them and they seem to be holding on OK to the stripes. ( I know it is a different thing). In fact I had to fix the "Y "which is on the paint because it was coming off. I used a 3M glue used to fix such things to cars and it is solid now.

 

 

 

Funny, my "Y" is coming off too! What did you use?

[blueshawk]

Funny, my "Y" is coming off too! What did you use?

 

 

 

"3M Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive". Remove the letter, wipe with alcohol and use a toothpick to dab a little on the letter and press an hold for 3 minutes. Have some "Goo Be Gone" glue remover handy to take care of any excess. Leave the 3M tape on the letter and be careful not to use but a very little of the glue.

 

Got it at Advanced Auto.