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My Transmission & Clutch & Flywheel installation


Grabber
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John,

 

Your wife said you had Snow. Will you be able to get your car to the dealer ?

 

 

us old farts here in Missouri are used to driving rear wheel cars in the snow and ice :happy feet:

 

..actually to digress (or is it regress??) when I was in my mid-20s, I was a volunteer fire fighter and commonly had to respond in the middle of the night before the plows had been out. This was in my 79 trans am set up with nitrous, and of course, lights and sirens :superhero:

 

I did typically put on studded snow tires when snow was predicted, and a couple of sacks of sand. But didn't always get that done.

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I know many of you are like me and want to know what has to be done to our cars to do this work, and how to do it right. This Senior master tech did such a good job and took such care during the work that there are no scratches under the car in the work area. I tried to give him a $50 dollar tip, but he would only let me give him a Ten spot for lunch. I told him he would do all my work from now on, and he was pleased that I will be coming back. He asked me if I would give him a good report card. I said yes, for sure. I am also writing a letter to the owner about his great work and the parts Dept's help. What a great team they have.

 

Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts066.jpg

Do the transmission come already serviced? Fluid installed

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I'm glad to hear your car is doing great!!! I had my clutch replaced back in december and now it's worse than before!! it came out shifting very smooth and easy, then after about 60 miles or so, I noticed it was getting harder to shift like clunking into gear even 2nd was driving me crazy, I let my dad drive it he noticed to it was differnt, I took it to my ford dealer insisted they get ahold of Ford contacts I gave them, at first they said never heard of this, I provided all the numbers and all, They looked puzzled like how do you know more than us??? They even said maybe take back to the dealer where you bought it, I laughed ,I drove to Westpoint Nebraska to get it 1200 miles!!!, They said would call contacts and get back to me this week. Man, driving me crazy on a brand new 50K car!! It might have to to pushed to Herman!!! Later Mickey

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I know many of you are like me and want to know what has to be done to our cars to do this work, and how to do it right. This Senior master tech did such a good job and took such care during the work that there are no scratches under the car in the work area. I tried to give him a $50 dollar tip, but he would only let me give him a Ten spot for lunch. I told him he would do all my work from now on, and he was pleased that I will be coming back. He asked me if I would give him a good report card. I said yes, for sure. I am also writing a letter to the owner about his great work and the parts Dept's help. What a great team they have.

 

Did you have the work done at Vancouver Ford?

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Did you have the work done at Vancouver Ford?

Yes I did, and I have 2 of the guys cards. I will give you one of the cards next time I see you. This is there best guy for the GT500 and Ford GT super car work. He services 2 Ford GT super cars. He has been there 13 years. He also did awatters clutch in his GT500.

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I ADDED THIS VALUABLE INFO TO POST #1.

 

Torque Spec for new clutch bolts added and Parts Pic.

torque the clutch bolts to 74 in-lb in a star pattern and then double click to 80 in-lb and NO 90* TURN!!

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts084.jpg

Edited by Grabber
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Does anyone know if there is a Ford Technical Service Bulliten for these clutch / transmission issues. My dealership is trying to weasle out on the warentee for it .

There is no TSB out. Just a service tip.

 

Clutch_Service_Tip.jpg

 

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts053.jpg

Edited by Grabber
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hey Grabber, thanx for the heads up. What should I do,I have not experienced any major tranny engagement problems as of yet but I only have 2300 miles on mine but my car was built 6/06 and will soon be sent to SAI for 750hp SS? I'm sure the service dept. won't replace the tranny because it will do fine most of the time. Since ford has not done an actual recall I don't know what to do?

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This is what Shelby101 did: (this is his post from another thread)

 

Take your shoes off, sit back and relax as this will take a while to convey.

 

I have been tracking for some time the tranny issue here and elsewhere. It became apparent to me that I was experiencing the same type issues as others. I made contact with a couple of folks who have had problems to confirm my suspicions and get their input.

 

After a week or so of discussion, I called the local deal to bring the car in for evaluation. Due to weather I delayed bring the car in for a week.

 

My Symptoms: prolonged hissing noise when the car is initially started and the clutch is depressed.. I additionally had difficulty getting the car into first and second gear until after it was warm and fully up to temperature. I had also had an experience in the summer where after driving for a prolonged period of time I could not get it into 5th or 6th gear. After the car cooled this disappeared and has not returned. 1st and 2nd gears however, were so bad it felt like I needed to double clutch until things warmed up.

 

Took the car to the dealer yesterday telling them it would have to sit overnight in order to evaluate the problem.( I also requested it sit in the shop overnight and they accommodated). I asked them to call the Tech hot line and they said they (Tech hot line) would only ask what they had already done. So the Service person said there was no point in calling until we start it the next day and decide what we hear.

 

When I got to the shop this morning they had run an oasis report. The report said that there is hissing in these and it would have to be determined it was excessive before going forward. This is message 19920. It also printed out 19921, 19923 and 19802 all of which have been previously posted. The service man again insisted they first start the car and then call.

 

I stressed with the Technician I was working with, that they needed to ignore this and call the Tech hot line before we start the car. I told him once we start it, it would take another 24 hours before we could again evaluate. I told him I believed there was a procedure to follow to evaluate the problem. I also pointed out that since it says it has to compare to other GT500’s we would have to take the one off the Show room floor for comparisons as it was the only one available.

 

My tech decided to put a call into the hotline. I had to run an errand so he said go ahead and come back in 1 hour. I got back 45 minutes later and all the service personnel and my technician were in the service manager’s office.

 

I asked if they had started the car without me as I specifically told them I did not want them to start it without me. I wanted to be present to ensure they knew what I was hearing and feeling. They assured me the car had not been started and they received a response to the hotline inquiry much faster than anticipated.

 

The note my technician sent said: “Is the problem a result of rusty splines from mostly sitting or is there some kind of revised clutch”

 

To my amazement they were all discussing the reply. They had not started the car, but simply called and e-mailed the above message

 

Hotline Recommendation:

Replace the transmission using 8R3Z7003-AC. Replace the Dual-Disc pressure clutch assembly using 7R3Z-7B546-B. Lube the transmission input shaft splines with Teflon grease during installation of new parts. Refer to SSM 19802. The transmission has a revised input shaft and lub will prevent corrosion on the hub of the clutch discs. Inspect the flywheel for burnt marks in 3-4 evenly spaced locations. If there is any visual damage, replace the flywheel. Flywheel to crank bolts can be re-used. Replace the dual disc pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Use revised torque spec with a click type torque wrench. Tighten the bolts to 80 in / lbs, then click check twice. No 90 degree torque angles any longer. Improper torquing can warp the flywheel. Disregard SSM 19650 and the workshop manual.

 

So I will be getting a new clutch and transmission. My technician said it may be better to keep the original flywheel as he believed they are matched to the engine for balance. If it shows signs of burning, they will replace it.

 

This is all being done under warranty!!!!!!!!!!!

Ford is doing this right.

 

Thanks to the forum for support and guidance.

Edited by Grabber
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I've read that but I have no idea weather my tranny will do it or not. Is this problem inevitable or is poss. that my tranny is ok despite being an early build car?

We have members with many miles on their cars and they are having no problems. I know of one guy that has 25,000 and another with 17,000. In fact I talked to one of them yesterday. They are having no problems. Those cars are driven as daily drivers. That might have something to do with it.

 

All I can tell you is that if you have a problem, and the symptoms show up, Ford is doing the right thing and fixing it. If you have no symptoms, and no problems, then there is nothing to repair. It says in your warrannty what is covered and what is not. If you turn the car into a 725 HP SuperSnake, then you need to look at your warranty fine print and evauluate the decision that you are making and the risks involved. I know that is not the answer that you wanted to hear, but it is the truth.

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thanx guys! It just stinks that this is some thing I have to worry about on a new car! I think Ford should at least do a recall on the early cars just to check the input shafts to see if they are rusted and require lube so I don't have to get a new tranny this would save Ford alot of money down the road!

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thanx guys! It just stinks that this is some thing I have to worry about on a new car! I think Ford should at least do a recall on the early cars just to check the input shafts to see if they are rusted and require lube so I don't have to get a new tranny this would save Ford alot of money down the road!

You could pull the transmission, lube the tranmission input shft and clutch hub, reinstall the assy. Fix it before it becomes a problem. Probably would cost you a few hundred dollars and save you allot of headache.

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You could pull the transmission, lube the tranmission input shft and clutch hub, reinstall the assy. Fix it before it becomes a problem. Probably would cost you a few hundred dollars and save you allot of headache.

Agree.

 

Spend a few hundred and know you addressed the issue or gamble that you may not have a problem and have to replace the clutch/tranny earlier than normal on your own dime.

 

I know which one I'd pick...

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If you can afford a $25,000 SS package you can afford a $5,000 tranny down the road. :tease:

 

 

Intguys, you're not that far from the Nags Head gathering, do you have any interest? Do you drive your car? :waiting:

 

Dealer cost on the parts alone is $5,400 bucks + install. If you had to buy the parts yourself, I bet it would cost $7,500 bucks and then a grand for the install. I bet it's a $8,500 dollar job. Maybe more. :huh:

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Agree.

 

Spend a few hundred and know you addressed the issue or gamble that you may not have a problem and have to replace the clutch/tranny earlier than normal on your own dime.

 

I know which one I'd pick...

Joe, it's 4 hours of non stop turning wrenches for a Senior master Tech. (no breaks and a helping hand needed with the heavy stuff)

 

That does not include doing the paperwork and the test drive. My paperwork said 6.3 hours.

 

If you can get it lubed for 2-3 hundred bucks at a Ford dealer, then that would be a deal.

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"You could pull the transmission, lube the tranmission input shft and clutch hub, reinstall the assy. Fix it before it becomes a problem. Probably would cost you a few hundred dollars and save you allot of headache."

 

Was'nt there an old thread about this using Telfon Oil... or is this what the Service Bulliten #19802 addresses?? My vote is to service the assembly for $300 +/- for some peace of mind. Grabber had a good experience so far, but others may not be as lucky...... Any help with a thread or will a tech understand " pull the transmission, lube the tranmission input shft and clutch hub, reinstall the assy" ??

 

Thanks,

 

GLH

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"You could pull the transmission, lube the tranmission input shft and clutch hub, reinstall the assy. Fix it before it becomes a problem. Probably would cost you a few hundred dollars and save you allot of headache."

 

Was'nt there an old thread about this using Telfon Oil... or is this what the Service Bulliten #19802 addresses?? My vote is to service the assembly for $300 +/- for some peace of mind. Grabber had a good experience so far, but others may not be as lucky...... Any help with a thread or will a tech understand " pull the transmission, lube the tranmission input shft and clutch hub, reinstall the assy" ??

 

Thanks,

 

GLH

The thread you are thinking about was the one that Harleydealer put a different fluid in his tranny. That will void you're warranty.

 

The battle is pulling and re-installing your tranny, so if all that has to be done, then it makes since to replace the parts with the upgraded highly polished input shaft. The reason, I say this, is that you do not know what damage you did to your syncro's during the bump and grind period.

 

The other thing I must mention, is that another one of our members (GT500tow) had his shaft lubed 2 months ago...and his problem is back, and worse than before. Also take note that Ford has no written procedure to pull the tranny and clean up and hand polish the existing tranny input shaft, so you might be doing work that would void your warranty.

 

If I were you I would drive the car untill it has a problem. If you have a problem, they will fix it. We have a good warranty. You could even buy the extended one like I did. I am covered for 7 years and 60,000 miles.

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You could pull the transmission, lube the tranmission input shft and clutch hub, reinstall the assy. Fix it before it becomes a problem. Probably would cost you a few hundred dollars and save you allot of headache.

 

 

$300 from my local dealership.? Should I?

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What do you do when you open up your tranny and its all rusted?

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I have 12ooo miles on my car and something is not right. :headscratch: Hiss seems alright but blocked from gear on occasion and the grind on every gear up to 3rd is not just cold weather. Concerned about my syncros now.

-

Just going to keep driving it and see what happens.

:tequila:

 

 

Still love my car!

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$300 from my local dealership.? Should I?

-

What do you do when you open up your tranny and its all rusted?

-

I have 12ooo miles on my car and something is not right. :headscratch: Hiss seems alright but blocked from gear on occasion and the grind on every gear up to 3rd is not just cold weather. Concerned about my syncros now.

-

Just going to keep driving it and see what happens.

:tequila:

 

 

Still love my car!

When you open up your tranny, it will look bone dry on the input shaft. I am not sure if you will see any corrosion like mine had on it, but I suspect you will. The fact that the splines are dry and there was corrosion present is the root of the problem with the clutch dragging and causing the syncros to remain loaded with engine torque because the clutch does not fully disengage inbetween shifts. This is why you feel the gears grind or bump.

 

The dryness and corrosion on the splines make the clutch not release on time.

 

Look closely at the input shaft.

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts034.jpg

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts033.jpg

 

look closely at the inside of the clutch hub

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts051.jpg

Edited by Grabber
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