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First Oil Change


phr3121

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I was wondering when you folks did your first oil change.

 

My car has just reached 500 miles and I was thinking of taking it in for an oil/filter change.

 

Any additional comments on the break-in mileage for this vehicle?

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I did my first one myself at 1,500 miles and I'm currently 100 miles shy of 4,500 for upcoming second oil change. Plan on every 3,000 for mine using Castrol oil and Motorcraft filters. I saved my first oil filter and put the date and mileage when I did the change.

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Thanks folks, here is a quote from another thread in this site:

 

"Breaking in an engine is a process of properly wearing-in the pistons/cylinders/rings, bearings, valves, camshaft, lifters, rockers, etc... In addition, part of the breaking in process is not only wearing-in and seating the internal engine components but also stress relieving the components as well. Crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons, blocks etc... have many stresses due to the casting or forging process, machining and welding process. I have seen these stresses, called fringes, using what is called lazer holography. These stresses are properly reduced/eliminated by costly and time consuming heat aging as well as shot peening and or high frequency vibration on a very specialized bedplate for an extended period of time. For production applications this is cost and time prohibitive. Therefore, the next best thing is exposing your engine to multiple heating and cooling cycles under various load and RPM's.

 

Breaking in a new engine is the one area that petroleum oil is better for than synthetics. You see, petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine. That is it's recommended you run the factory installed petroleum oil for about the first 500 miles.

 

Further heat cycling break-in will continue during the multiple heating and cooling cycles from driving your vehicle under varying RPM and engine load conditions and then shutting it down for a long period of time to let it cool completely. The multiple heating and cooling cycles are an extremely important factor in properly breaking in a new engine and are often an overlooked factor in the total break-in process. These heating and cooling cycles achieve what is called stress relieving. Back in the "old days" of engine manufacturing, after casting and before an engine block was machined, it would be set outside for several months to age, during which stress relieving occurred naturally, then the block was machined, which helped to produce a better engine than one that was machined immediately after casting.

 

By changing the factory installed oil and filter after the first 500 miles you will also be removing the initial wear-in particulates (metal shavings) present in the oil and filter. The reason for this is that during initial wear-in there is very high particulate contamination in the oil. These particulates consist mainly of microscopic particles of aluminum, bronze, copper, lead and iron, plus soot particles and other by-products of combustion in your oil. Your filter cannot filter out all these small particulates as many are sub-micron size and too small for the filter to trap, BUT they are also small enough to fit between your bearing and other internal clearances and cause wear. That is why it is recommend that in order to properly break-in a new engine, regardless of what your new car salesman or dealership personnel tell you, is to perform the first oil and filter change at 500 miles and the second at 1,000 miles just to be safe.

 

Once this is completed you should have yourself a perfectly broken in GT500, I hope this helps with your questions."

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PHR3121

 

NOT AGAIN

I changed My oil with 5 miles on the clock.

Then I changed the LCA .

Then I changed the shocks and springs

Then I changed the tire and wheel combination to 22's

Then I changed the air in the tires.

Then I changed the exhaust

Then I changed the supercharger to the K.B.

Then I changed the spark plugs.

Then I changed the shorty antenna.

Then I changed all the lettering on the trunk

Then I changed the mirror covers.

Then I changed the badging on the car to the Super snake.

Tthen I changed the floor mats to the Shelby ones.

Then I changed the tail lights.

Then I changed the head lights

Then I changed My oil after all the work I did I forgot that I had changed My oil already with 5 miles on the clock. Note to self write that stuff down.

Then I pushed it into the corner and put the cover on and waited for the dash plaque to arrive.

:hysterical2::hysterical2::hysterical2:

 

 

 

 

 

There are countless people on this website with opinion's on this subject.

You are no different so use You're own judgment after all I an sure that this isn't You're first car and I am guessing that You didn't ask this question then You got it. You're question isn't a dumb one .It's just been beaten to death here already.

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There are countless people on this website with opinion's on this subject.

You are no different so use You're own judgment after all I an sure that this isn't You're first car and I am guessing that You didn't ask this question then You got it. You're question isn't a dumb one .It's just been beaten to death here already.

 

My question is geared more towards the guys (and girls?) who are pushing their machine to the limit with multiple 1/4 mile runs & regular city and highway driving.

 

"Garage Queens" need not reply.... (I don't understand how folks can own a car like this and keep it in the garage 97% of the time).

 

Thanks....

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I was wondering when you folks did your first oil change.

 

My car has just reached 500 miles and I was thinking of taking it in for an oil/filter change.

 

Any additional comments on the break-in mileage for this vehicle?

 

I asked my Ford service advisor when the first change should be done and he said 5000 miles. That seemed a bit extreme to me. A few weeks later I was talking to a Ford master mechanic and he said that SVT came out with a service bulletin stating that it should be done a 1000 miles. I ended up doing it at 3000 and wished I had done it around 1500 like most everyone else. Any way while it was being done at 3000 miles I asked the service rep to see if there was such a bulletin and he couldn't find it. Go figure.

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I just changed my oil for the first time a couple of days ago. 1,300 miles.

 

Since I'm not putting a lot of miles on my Shelby, and the miles I do put on it are rather "spirited" miles, I'm probably going to change the oil every 3,000 miles. That may be overkill with today's advanced synthetic oils, but I'm just an old school kind of guy.

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Quote:

"....any way while it was being done at 3000 miles I asked the service rep to see if there was such a bulletin and he couldn't find it. Go figure."

 

My Ford service advisor had no idea of when the S/C would be fully functional.

Mentioned something about driving the car on the highway till it reached 130 miles on the odometer.

Did not know about the 5 miles of continuous driving or 50 key starts.

 

A better answer would have been to explain how the S/C worked, as in "you will not see the PSI needle on the gauge move until you accelerate through the gears pretty hard into 4000 RPMs!"

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My question is geared more towards the guys (and girls?) who are pushing their machine to the limit with multiple 1/4 mile runs & regular city and highway driving.

 

"Garage Queens" need not reply.... (I don't understand how folks can own a car like this and keep it in the garage 97% of the time).

 

Thanks....

I was being sarcastic.

If You are going to run the 1/4 mile then You should be more vigilant in changing You're oil.

Otherwise normal city and highway driving has been covered in the owners manual.

:beatdeadhorse: :beatdeadhorse:

I actually have 3600 miles on mine.

It's to much fun to drive and let others look and wish they had one.

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Quote:

"....any way while it was being done at 3000 miles I asked the service rep to see if there was such a bulletin and he couldn't find it. Go figure."

 

My Ford service advisor had no idea of when the S/C would be fully functional.

Mentioned something about driving the car on the highway till it reached 130 miles on the odometer.

Did not know about the 5 miles of continuous driving or 50 key starts.

 

A better answer would have been to explain how the S/C worked, as in "you will not see the PSI needle on the gauge move until you accelerate through the gears pretty hard into 4000 RPMs!"

You're service adviser should know every thing about You're car other wise He cant advise You on You're car.

Supercharger is activated at 5 miles or 50 individual starts Page 8 GT500 supplement.

Supercharger will kick in as soon as the engine need the extra boost. I have noticed that I don't have to floor it to have the boost needle move.

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I was being sarcastic.

If You are going to run the 1/4 mile then You should be more vigilant in changing You're oil.

 

Thanks, I wasn't refering to you on the "Garage Queen" issue since I can tell you are not one:

 

Then I changed the LCA

Then I changed the shocks and springs

Then I changed the tire and wheel combination to 22's

Then I changed the exhaust

Then I changed the supercharger to the K.B.

Then I changed the shorty antenna.

Then I changed all the lettering on the trunk

Then I changed the mirror covers.

Then I changed the badging on the car to the Super snake.

Then I changed the tail lights.

Then I changed the head lights

 

:blink: Wow! Those are a lot of changes....what does it look like now?

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Thanks folks, here is a quote from another thread in this site:

 

"Breaking in an engine is a process of properly wearing-in the pistons/cylinders/rings, bearings, valves, camshaft, lifters, rockers, etc... In addition, part of the breaking in process is not only wearing-in and seating the internal engine components but also stress relieving the components as well. Crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons, blocks etc... have many stresses due to the casting or forging process, machining and welding process. I have seen these stresses, called fringes, using what is called lazer holography. These stresses are properly reduced/eliminated by costly and time consuming heat aging as well as shot peening and or high frequency vibration on a very specialized bedplate for an extended period of time. For production applications this is cost and time prohibitive. Therefore, the next best thing is exposing your engine to multiple heating and cooling cycles under various load and RPM's.

 

Breaking in a new engine is the one area that petroleum oil is better for than synthetics. You see, petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine. That is it's recommended you run the factory installed petroleum oil for about the first 500 miles.

 

Further heat cycling break-in will continue during the multiple heating and cooling cycles from driving your vehicle under varying RPM and engine load conditions and then shutting it down for a long period of time to let it cool completely. The multiple heating and cooling cycles are an extremely important factor in properly breaking in a new engine and are often an overlooked factor in the total break-in process. These heating and cooling cycles achieve what is called stress relieving. Back in the "old days" of engine manufacturing, after casting and before an engine block was machined, it would be set outside for several months to age, during which stress relieving occurred naturally, then the block was machined, which helped to produce a better engine than one that was machined immediately after casting.

 

By changing the factory installed oil and filter after the first 500 miles you will also be removing the initial wear-in particulates (metal shavings) present in the oil and filter. The reason for this is that during initial wear-in there is very high particulate contamination in the oil. These particulates consist mainly of microscopic particles of aluminum, bronze, copper, lead and iron, plus soot particles and other by-products of combustion in your oil. Your filter cannot filter out all these small particulates as many are sub-micron size and too small for the filter to trap, BUT they are also small enough to fit between your bearing and other internal clearances and cause wear. That is why it is recommend that in order to properly break-in a new engine, regardless of what your new car salesman or dealership personnel tell you, is to perform the first oil and filter change at 500 miles and the second at 1,000 miles just to be safe.

 

Once this is completed you should have yourself a perfectly broken in GT500, I hope this helps with your questions."

 

All this seemed to complicated, so when I was at SAI I asked one of their chief mechanics his opinion. He said change it at 500 miles, so I did.

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