nachtkriechen Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Does anyone know (or know where to find) the definition of wheel hop, how it works, and how to correct it? I've looked all over the net, and all I'm finding is forums with people guessing at what the cause is, and not giving information as to how this problem is corrected. Thanks much, - Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Under10 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Does anyone know (or know where to find) the definition of wheel hop, how it works, and how to correct it? I've looked all over the net, and all I'm finding is forums with people guessing at what the cause is, and not giving information as to how this problem is corrected.Thanks much, - Josh Josh, here's an excerpt fom a thread started by Sprint200 tracking the mods that were being done to his baby: === The rear end has eight different degrees of freedom. It can move front to back. It can move side to side. It can roll on an axis with the drive shaft. And it can twist about its own axis. For this discussion, I'm ignoring up and down because the oilovers handle that movement. The lower control arms handle the front to back movement. The new anti-roll bar takes care of the roll (when one side of the axle raises, the other side wants to drop. The anti-roll bar transfers this movement across the live axle to balance out the forces. The watts link controls the side to side motion (as svtbird already commented). No matter how much those bars move in and out on that pivot attahced to the diff cover; Euchlid says the diff stays centered on the DS! Now for this wrapping force which causes the DREADED WHEEL HOP! The torque arm takes all of that force, which goes into causing our wheels to bounce so violently that our egos are completely deflated, and tries to lift up on the front of the car; thus transfering that weight to the rear axle, giving you more traction. This set-up controls all of the issues inherent in a live axle suspension, and with less weight than an IRS! === You might want to check out the whole thread...I'm still trying to digest everything myself as I'm totally in the learning stage for most of the mods that people do. Search for a thread called: Coilovers, Torque Arm & Watts Link, Oh My! David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Under10 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 FYI, Sprint200 did extensive mods to make his baby good for racing. For a simpler solution to tame wheel hop for just better riding in general, read this threat about changing out the Watts Link search for: Watts link first impressions, Better gas mileage, smarter driver, less butt-hop (sorry, new to this board and haven't learned how to post links to a thread) David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Does anyone know (or know where to find) the definition of wheel hop, how it works, and how to correct it? I've looked all over the net, and all I'm finding is forums with people guessing at what the cause is, and not giving information as to how this problem is corrected.Thanks much, - Josh I believe the cause is flexing in the control arms (unclear on whether it's the upper or lowers...my guess would be a combination of both). The fix is aftermarket upper and lowers. Buy any Mustang magazine and find vendors who sell them...there are many (BMR, Steeda, and many more). If you want more details after researching, post specific questions. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Unless I missed it, I too have been trying to learn what to do to correct this. I have read about trouble with bushings and bolt hole size and loose noise in the after market set ups. alignment issues also. Still unclear what component is the one that is right. There must be some out out there who really knows chassis and suspension set ups who can identify what is exactly needed to correct this. please step up, too many different opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nachtkriechen Posted July 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Josh, here's an excerpt fom a thread started by Sprint200 tracking the mods that were being done to his baby: === The rear end has eight different degrees of freedom. It can move front to back. It can move side to side. It can roll on an axis with the drive shaft. And it can twist about its own axis. For this discussion, I'm ignoring up and down because the oilovers handle that movement. The lower control arms handle the front to back movement. The new anti-roll bar takes care of the roll (when one side of the axle raises, the other side wants to drop. The anti-roll bar transfers this movement across the live axle to balance out the forces. The watts link controls the side to side motion (as svtbird already commented). No matter how much those bars move in and out on that pivot attahced to the diff cover; Euchlid says the diff stays centered on the DS! Now for this wrapping force which causes the DREADED WHEEL HOP! The torque arm takes all of that force, which goes into causing our wheels to bounce so violently that our egos are completely deflated, and tries to lift up on the front of the car; thus transfering that weight to the rear axle, giving you more traction. This set-up controls all of the issues inherent in a live axle suspension, and with less weight than an IRS! === You might want to check out the whole thread...I'm still trying to digest everything myself as I'm totally in the learning stage for most of the mods that people do. Search for a thread called: Coilovers, Torque Arm & Watts Link, Oh My! David Thanks, David. That's a lot to digest, and I'm sure the answer is in there somewhere. I think I may have to check out the original thread as well. So, I take it with as many suspension components that could be the sole problem or just a contributer to the problem, there isn't one simple (replace this part) fix? And if you change something in your suspension setup from stock, that alone could have changed your weight distro. and thus you'd have to tweak potentially every other component involved to correct the wheel hop? Thanks again for your input. - Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingram4868 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Steeda seems to have few complaints about their approach to this fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Unless I missed it, I too have been trying to learn what to do to correct this. I have read about trouble with bushings and bolt hole size and loose noise in the after market set ups. alignment issues also. Still unclear what component is the one that is right. There must be some out out there who really knows chassis and suspension set ups who can identify what is exactly needed to correct this. please step up, too many different opinions. I responded to this in my post...is that answer insufficient? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Thanks, David. That's a lot to digest, and I'm sure the answer is in there somewhere. I think I may have to check out the original thread as well. So, I take it with as many suspension components that could be the sole problem or just a contributer to the problem, there isn't one simple (replace this part) fix? And if you change something in your suspension setup from stock, that alone could have changed your weight distro. and thus you'd have to tweak potentially every other component involved to correct the wheel hop? Thanks again for your input. - Josh Replace the UCA first and that will eliminate some (and maybe all) of the issue. If not all, replace the lowers. I replaced the lowers first, and it eliminated some, but not all, of my issue. I did the lowers first because they were a] easier and b] less expensive. Some people have claimed just replacing one or the other has fixed their issue...but I think it's a matter of temperature (lower temps will make the tires and bushings "harder") affect , road surface (blacktop vs. concrete), weight of the driver, how much fuel is in the tank, and so on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nachtkriechen Posted July 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Replace the UCA first and that will eliminate some (and maybe all) of the issue. If not all, replace the lowers. I replaced the lowers first, and it eliminated some, but not all, of my issue. I did the lowers first because they were a] easier and b] less expensive. Some people have claimed just replacing one or the other has fixed their issue...but I think it's a matter of temperature (lower temps will make the tires and bushings "harder") affect , road surface (blacktop vs. concrete), weight of the driver, how much fuel is in the tank, and so on. Wow, there's a lot to this! Focusing on the upper and lower control arms simplifies it quite a bit, however. Thanks, Dave! - Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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