Mileage for first oil change

[cloud9]

I am sure this has been addressed, but since the search feature errors on 3-letter words (i.e. oil) I have had a hard time finding it.

 

How many miles are people driving before changing the oil for the first time? I know the manual says 5,000 miles, but I can say that I am not driving under "normal" driving conditions the way I have been getting on it. Also, I have heard that manufacturers use oil additives to coat the engine parts and you don't want to dump the factory oil too early.

[Grabber]

I am sure this has been addressed, but since the search feature errors on 3-letter words (i.e. oil) I have had a hard time finding it.

 

How many miles are people driving before changing the oil for the first time? I know the manual says 5,000 miles, but I can say that I am not driving under "normal" driving conditions the way I have been getting on it. Also, I have heard that manufacturers use oil additives to coat the engine parts and you don't want to dump the factory oil too early.

 

I had Ford do mine at 919 miles. Never heard of the special coating you speak of.

[Super Snake]

1500 miles for me

[aonebadbone]

These motors were broke in at the factory and ran for a period of time so they could put synthetic oil in.

You can not put synthetic oil in a motor until the valves and rings and cam have been seated.

You should be able to go more than 5000 miles on synthetic motor oil before it brakes down.

Just follow the owners manual and check that it is full.

If You think that the oil is to dirty than change it.

If You put miles on You're car 1/4 mile at a time than You should change it each time You go tot he track. Not between runs.

Some folks here have changed there motor oil with Casteroil and I read an article a while back from this website that stated that casteroil is not full synthetic regardless of what the label said.

I am not a rich man especially after buying this car but I am not going to put anything in her but Motorcraft oil.

Thanks to ford dealers they have ADM on everything associated with this car.

List price for this oil has been stated at 8.75 a qt.

 

Disclaimer:

Some of the proceeding is based on fact and opinion.

[Alloy Dave]

If You think that the oil is to dirty than change it.

You cannot tell if oil needs changing simply by looking at it. Either change it by mileage, or send the oil off and have it chemically tested. I propose the former.

 

Dave

[69deluxe]

1500 miles for me

 

1000.0 miles for me! Yup, you read that decimal point correctly.

[VNMOUS1]

These motors were broke in at the factory and ran for a period of time so they could put synthetic oil in.

You can not put synthetic oil in a motor until the valves and rings and cam have been seated.

You should be able to go more than 5000 miles on synthetic motor oil before it brakes down.

Just follow the owners manual and check that it is full.

If You think that the oil is to dirty than change it.

If You put miles on You're car 1/4 mile at a time than You should change it each time You go tot he track. Not between runs.

Some folks here have changed there motor oil with Casteroil and I read an article a while back from this website that stated that casteroil is not full synthetic regardless of what the label said.

I am not a rich man especially after buying this car but I am not going to put anything in her but Motorcraft oil.

Thanks to ford dealers they have ADM on everything associated with this car.

List price for this oil has been stated at 8.75 a qt.

 

Disclaimer:

Some of the proceeding is based on fact and opinion.

 

I'll buy the "opinion" part. I have lots of them, too, but the following is fact:

 

They do not "break in " the engines at the factory. In fact, they don't even start them. And yes, you can use full synthetic from day one. The old days of "seating" rings has passed. Modern day tolerances are such that it's really unnecessary. You'd be amazed at what little residue and particles are picked up in oil testing on engines with less than 1,000 miles on them. They're cold tested on a machine that allows the electronics to plug in and all fluids to pressure up. Once they're OK'd, it's off to the races. The first time they are started is to pull them off the end of the line. They load synthetic...the exact same synthetic they recommend for all uses...at the time of the build.

 

These truly are remarkable times.

 

Here's a look at the cold test in progress. The big orange thing in the front turns the crank since there is no combustion and no belts.

 

 

For what it's worth, I changed mine at 1,000 miles and change it every 3,500 (yes at $85 bucks a pop).

 

 

bj

[ShelbySteve]

I am sure this has been addressed, but since the search feature errors on 3-letter words (i.e. oil) I have had a hard time finding it.

 

How many miles are people driving before changing the oil for the first time? I know the manual says 5,000 miles, but I can say that I am not driving under "normal" driving conditions the way I have been getting on it. Also, I have heard that manufacturers use oil additives to coat the engine parts and you don't want to dump the factory oil too early.

SVT people recommend changing the oil at 1,000 miles and then every 5,000

[SpeedRacer]

1st change at 1,000 then every 3,000 there after.

 

Stuart

[HotRodHarry]

First at 500. Then every 3 months. Just because I dont drive it enough....590 miles so far

[harley99fb]

I'll buy the "opinion" part. I have lots of them, too, but the following is fact:

 

They do not "break in " the engines at the factory. In fact, they don't even start them. And yes, you can use full synthetic from day one. The old days of "seating" rings has passed. Modern day tolerances are such that it's really unnecessary. You'd be amazed at what little residue and particles are picked up in oil testing on engines with less than 1,000 miles on them. They're cold tested on a machine that allows the electronics to plug in and all fluids to pressure up. Once they're OK'd, it's off to the races. The first time they are started is to pull them off the end of the line. They load synthetic...the exact same synthetic they recommend for all uses...at the time of the build.

 

These truly are remarkable times.

 

Here's a look at the cold test in progress. The big orange thing in the front turns the crank since there is no combustion and no belts.

 

 

 

Hey BJ! That looks like one of my engine builders in the back ground drinking a beer. LOL

 

On the Romeo trip, I was lucky enough to get a pic with my car and both engine builders. Jeremy and Robert. Great guys.

[CobraCrazy]

I changed the oil at 1500 miles and plan on changing it from now on every 4 - 5k (max).

CC

[VNMOUS1]

Harley,

 

Both of my guys took the buyout. One has a farm right up the road from the plant. Yep, that's yours with the can. Probably Red Bull. Built your 5.4 in 16 minutes.

 

bj

[davidnz]

First at 500. Then every 3 months. Just because I dont drive it enough....590 miles so far

 

 

+1.. First one @ 500 then every 3 months as well(about 800 miles a month).....

[Alloy Dave]

I'll buy the "opinion" part. I have lots of them, too, but the following is fact:

 

They do not "break in " the engines at the factory. In fact, they don't even start them. And yes, you can use full synthetic from day one. The old days of "seating" rings has passed. Modern day tolerances are such that it's really unnecessary. You'd be amazed at what little residue and particles are picked up in oil testing on engines with less than 1,000 miles on them. They're cold tested on a machine that allows the electronics to plug in and all fluids to pressure up. Once they're OK'd, it's off to the races. The first time they are started is to pull them off the end of the line. They load synthetic...the exact same synthetic they recommend for all uses...at the time of the build.

 

These truly are remarkable times.

 

Here's a look at the cold test in progress. The big orange thing in the front turns the crank since there is no combustion and no belts.

 

 

For what it's worth, I changed mine at 1,000 miles and change it every 3,500 (yes at $85 bucks a pop).

bj

+1

 

aone...where did you get your info?

[M5]

571 miles every 3000 hereafter

[EmpireStateGT500]

First one at 300 miles. Every 1,500 to 3,000 mile thereafter.

 

Aren't all cylinders crosshatched at the factory? The process of breaking an engine in is to operate it so that:

1. The peaks of the honing are knocked off so that the rings hydroplane on whats left of the edges.

2. While picking up the oil from the valleys of the cross hatch pattern

3. At low enough temperatures so that the internal surfaces of the cylinders are not glazed

4. Which smooths the peaks and valleys of the surface of the cylinders

4. Thereby lowering the ability of the grooves to supply lubricating oil to the cylinders and

5. Scuffing the piston rings so that there is

6. Blowby which lowers compression in the cylinder and

7 Decreases the power produced in each cylinder.

[aonebadbone]

+1

 

aone...where did you get your info?

Most of the information that I have I have gathered here.

Some from My friend that is a Ford Technion.

I also got some of my information from the owners manual.

The rest is experience.

I wasn't aware that Ford didn't start the engine at the factory however I would guess and this is a guess that Ford uses conventional oil for the brake in period.

Do You know how long Ford runs the test?

If You follow the owners manual than if You have a engine failure than Ford will fix it for free

Why is everyone so concerned about when to change there oil?

I bet that some folks didn't open the owners manual and read about there car.

[VNMOUS1]

Most of the information that I have I have gathered here.

Some from My friend that is a Ford Technion.

I also got some of my information from the owners manual.

The rest is experience.

I wasn't aware that Ford didn't start the engine at the factory however I would guess and this is a guess that Ford uses conventional oil for the brake in period.

Do You know how long Ford runs the test?

If You follow the owners manual than if You have a engine failure than Ford will fix it for free

Why is everyone so concerned about when to change there oil?

I bet that some folks didn't open the owners manual and read about there car.

 

 

The test is less than 5 minutes, and it's full of synthetic. They do not use petroleum based oil at any time. Nor do any other manufacturers that spec full synth (Corvette, M-B, BMW, etc). Those days are long past. (And I'm an old fart, so I remember everything from Motor Honey to Riseolene)

 

 

 

bj

[Alloy Dave]

Most of the information that I have I have gathered here.

Some from My friend that is a Ford Technion.

I also got some of my information from the owners manual.

The rest is experience.

I wasn't aware that Ford didn't start the engine at the factory however I would guess and this is a guess that Ford uses conventional oil for the brake in period.

Do You know how long Ford runs the test?

If You follow the owners manual than if You have a engine failure than Ford will fix it for free

Why is everyone so concerned about when to change there oil?

I bet that some folks didn't open the owners manual and read about there car.

What test are you talking about (your reference of "how long Ford runs the test"? Do you mean the cold test? If so, I don't know how long...but at our company we only do it long enough for all fluid pressures to be validated...so about 20 seconds or so...and the engine doesn't even turn. We also do a hot test after this...but evidently Ford doesn't do a hot test.

 

I was wondering about your source specifically for the info about the break-in at the factory, as perhaps you should re-evaluate the reliability of that source.

 

I don't know if they use conventional oil to break in...but I will ask during the tour.

 

I read my entire manual. I'm not going to say I remembered all of it...but at least I read it.

 

I would say people are so concerned about when to change their oil because they want to protect their investment. I see your point...if you do as the manual says...you should be ok. I guess some people just want to take the extra step to be careful.

 

Regards,

 

Dave

[BADBOY500]

First @ 480...2nd@2350 all others will be @ 3000 intervals..............

[Jolly Roger]

First was at 5,000 miles, per the manual.

 

The rest will also be per the manual.

 

If Ford thought that the oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles, then the manual would say that.

 

After all, Ford tells me that if my engine breaks in the first 5 years/60,000 miles then it will fix my engine for me under warranty, so I'm sure Ford is being conservative with its maintenance recommendations....

 

Note: I drive my Shelby every day when there's not snow or salt on the roads, and I never take it to the track.

[cloud9]

First was at 5,000 miles, per the manual.

 

The rest will also be per the manual.

 

If Ford thought that the oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles, then the manual would say that.

 

After all, Ford tells me that if my engine breaks in the first 5 years/60,000 miles then it will fix my engine for me under warranty, so I'm sure Ford is being conservative with its maintenance recommendations....

 

Note: I drive my Shelby every day when there's not snow or salt on the roads, and I never take it to the track.

 

Thanks for everyone's feedback. Several years ago I stopped going by the 3,000 mile rule and started following the mfrs schedule in the manual which was usually less frequent. I have owned or still own at least a dozen Ford 5.4L V-8s (fleet vans/trucks/Expedition) and can't remember a single engine problem related to frequency of oil changes. I always run them over 100k miles..usually 150k+.

 

To Alloy Dave's point, I asked the question because this car's special and I don't want to screw it up. It's just too much fun to drive, and I plan to drive it a long, long time.

[Alloy Dave]

First was at 5,000 miles, per the manual.

 

The rest will also be per the manual.

 

If Ford thought that the oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles, then the manual would say that.

 

After all, Ford tells me that if my engine breaks in the first 5 years/60,000 miles then it will fix my engine for me under warranty, so I'm sure Ford is being conservative with its maintenance recommendations....

 

Note: I drive my Shelby every day when there's not snow or salt on the roads, and I never take it to the track.

Jolly, while I agree with you....I will add a bit of skepticism ...not specifically about the oil change intervals, but about what automakers tell us in general.

 

Just because an auto maker says in the manual to change at 5,000 mile intervals doesn't necessarily mean that's the best thing for the car. Remember that their marketing people use oil change intervals as a selling point ("We only require you to change your oil every 5,000 miles whereas that XXXX brand you are comparing us to requires it every 3,000....wouldn't you rather buy our car since this will save you money?")

 

As such, there MIGHT be a bit of marketing buried in the recommendation. Obviously they wouldn't want to make it so extreme that it would cost them in reputation or warranty claims (i.e. They'd never say "you NEVER need to change your oil if you buy a Ford."), but to "stretch" it a bit further than what's ideal is not beyond the realm of possibility.

 

As an example, I had a friend who worked in an auto maker's technical center 10 years ago. He told me that even though that auto maker recommended 5W-30 oil in their cars, he would not use it because it does not protect as well. I asked him why they recommended it then. He said using a thinner oil increases the fuel mileage and increases their CAFE requirements. Typically in my cars I run one higher "weight" than is recommended by the manufacturer for this reason....except in winter.

 

Dave

[aonebadbone]

Dearest Alloy Dave

In the beginning there were the dinosaurs that gave up there lives to make oil and other fuels and lucubration for our cars.

Since that time refineries have formulated new and improved oil by adding different chemicals.

Some keep the foam out and some clean the motor inside

Some even protect the engine better with wear additives.

 

Now with the invention of synthetic oil the need to change oil is less often.

I has been proven that using synthetic lubricants greatly reduces the heat that is produced in the engine and differential and transmission. We all know as gearheads that heat brakes down the additive packages that the oil manufacture puts in oil.

 

That is why synthetic oil has a longer life in the crankcase than the oil that my Dad and You're Dad used in the 50's.I am not so sure that there is as much crude in oil as there was in the past with all the stuff they put in oil. A quart is the same no matter what is in it. it only comes in one size and if You add to it something has to come out.

 

Ford has been building cars since the twenties and we should take there word for what ever they say as far as maintenance on these [ investments] cars.

Since they back up what they say with a warranty.

Those that have modified there cars should look at there cars more closely then those of us that have chosen not to modify.

 

Now lets not confuse Ford with Ford Dealers as We all know You cant trust them for as long as You can throw them.

 

Now with all that I have said I didn't want to make anyone mad.

I just think changing You're oil before You have got the most out of it is a big waste of money.

And it sure is mot good for the environment.

On the other hand the oil company's would like You to change it every week mo money mo money mo money for them.

 

ps. I am not a tree hugger I hate those guys.

[PbFoot]

I'll buy the "opinion" part. I have lots of them, too, but the following is fact:

 

They do not "break in " the engines at the factory. In fact, they don't even start them. And yes, you can use full synthetic from day one. The old days of "seating" rings has passed. Modern day tolerances are such that it's really unnecessary. You'd be amazed at what little residue and particles are picked up in oil testing on engines with less than 1,000 miles on them. They're cold tested on a machine that allows the electronics to plug in and all fluids to pressure up. Once they're OK'd, it's off to the races. The first time they are started is to pull them off the end of the line. They load synthetic...the exact same synthetic they recommend for all uses...at the time of the build.

 

I wonder what this guy would say about that

 

Does the cold break in perform the ring/sidewall seating process? Is the part about synthetic being "too slippery"

for ring seating a bunch of nonsense? (my guess it is).

 

Did those of you who see lower than expected results on your baseline dyno baby it like a grandmother

for the first 500 miles?

[Alloy Dave]

I just think changing You're oil before You have got the most out of it is a big waste of money.

And it sure is mot good for the environment.

Aone, thanks for your response.

 

However, how do you know when you "got the most out of it"? Why not leave it in there permanently? What I'm saying is that YOUR perception of when you "got the most out of it" may be different than someone else's. Evidently that you are under the impression that Ford's definition of when you "get the most out of it" is 5,000 miles.

 

However, I would urge you to read the rest of the maintenance manual. Note at the top of the pages where it recommends 5,000 mile intervals it says "NORMAL"schedule. What if you drive in such a way that's not normal? This includes spending a significant amount of time towing, excessive idling, excessive low-speed driving (unlikely ), off-road, dusty conditions, etc. I realize most of these would not pertain to how we drive our cars...but under these conditions they recommend changing every 3,000 miles. So....what if you spend 20% of the time driving on dusty roads? what about 30%? 40%? how about 50%? There's no magic number in between where you switch from the 5,000 mile interval to the 3,000 mile interval...you have to use judgment. Also note that they don't mention drag racing as a "special" operating condition...but I'd say that doing a large amount of that would also require some adjustment to the "NORMAL" service intervals.

 

As for it not being good for the environment, I don't understand your comment. If you take it to a recycle location, how is that bad for the environment?

 

Dave

[Alloy Dave]

I wonder what this guy would say about that

 

Does the cold break in perform the ring/sidewall seating process? Is the part about synthetic being "too slippery"

for ring seating a bunch of nonsense? (my guess it is).

 

Did those of you who see lower than expected results on your baseline dyno baby it like a grandmother

for the first 500 miles?

Some of our cars already had more than the 20 miles he mentions when we received them (not mine). The cold test isn't meant to seat the rings...there's not even fuel used during the test...rather the engine is "pulled" by an electric motor or similar device....so the only pressure in the combustion chamber is that due to compression of the air...minimal.

[Alloy Dave]

That is why synthetic oil has a longer life in the crankcase than the oil that my Dad and You're Dad used in the 50's.I am not so sure that there is as much crude in oil as there was in the past with all the stuff they put in oil. A quart is the same no matter what is in it. it only comes in one size and if You add to it something has to come out.

I agree partially with this. However, another point is that with the improved controls (sensors that control combustion and A/F ratios) on engines today, combustion chambers are exposed to much less "crap" than in the '50s...which then does not get into the oil via blowby. Examples include excessive fuel due to rich A/F ratios and carbon particles from incomplete combustion. As a matter of fact, you'll see that many auto makers today use a 5,000 mile oil change interval EVEN WITH REGULAR (non-synthetic) OIL. Therefore, I believe that the point above is actually more of a factor in the oil change interval increase than the use of synthetic oil...although I agree both play a part.

 

Dave

[EmpireStateGT500]

At the risk of getting off topic, I would suggest the following. The explanation of the care of the engine (including engine break in and oil change) in the manual for the GT500 is not dissimilar to that of the other lines of automobiles that Ford sells. The manufacturer treats the various product lines very much the same. Most of Ford's products are transportation appliances so you will be getting the manufacturers recommendations for a transportation appliance.

 

However, many of us that purchased GT500's don't treat our Shelby's like transportation appliances. Acceleration, deceleration, frequency of use, modifications; all of these variants to "normal" use for tranportation appliances require different care. Care that may have more in common with Motorman's experience with racing engines.

 

Now, I don't think any of us use our Shelby's exclusively for a tranportation appliance. And I don't think most of us use our Shelby's exclusively for racing. So, each of us must use our judgement about how close our use is to each extreme. The extent to which you use your Shelby as a transportation appliance, the more you want to care for it as a transportation appliance. The more you use it as a race car the more you should give it the care of a race car.