ViperNC Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 OK.... It was quite hot today so that might have added to the problem, but I've never had this happen before. First session was around 4:15 PM and it was hot and humid. I rolled out and warmed up the tires as usual on the first lap and then started to increase speed in successive laps. BTW - I tried some new tires on my track wheels today and was very pleased: Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's. They were only $170 a tire for 285/35/19 and after I scrubbed them in they performed beautifully. Anyway.... halfway through the first session, my supercharger overflow tank starting spitting coolant on my windshield every time I got into the boost. I pitted and lifted the hood, but couldn't see anything wrong so I went back out on track. Towards the end of the session, it was pretty bad and was basically spewing coolant at that point so I came in and parked the car with it running, popped the hood, and pulled my fan in front of the car to assist in cooling everything off. The aftermarket over flow tank was bulging and I carefully removed the cap only to see the coolant boiling in the tank. After a few minutes, everything returned to normal. Second session presented the issue again, but much sooner this time and the computer also threw a code halfway through the session. The engine temps/oil pressure and temps were fine so I kept running, but slowed down and tried to stay out of the boost. As long as I did that, I didn't get the coolant shower on my windshield. I checked the code when I got back to the pits and it said, "Intake air temp too high". Yeah... No shit Sherlock! Tell me something I don't know. Third session was more fun as I was learning to manage the situation better and basically was focusing on braking points, entry speed and corner exit. The Indy 500's were doing their job well so I found some enjoyment, but it really sucked when I was getting passed by every car on track down the straights because I was having to ease on the throttle. With all the mods I did to combat heat issues, the only thing I have not done (which I really don't want to do at this point) is change the supercharger. One guy was running a TVS on his GT500 and he had the same problem. In addition, that dreaded engine intermittent tick seems louder now? Call me crazy. Lastly, I got home and changed the wheels back to my street set up. When I started the car again, there was a short high pitched squeal which presented itself a couple of times when I revved the engine and then went away. I'm going to see if it does it again in the morning. The engine tick was also present and then went away after I drove the car for a few minutes to get the TPMS back online. I have already replaced my supercharger pulley bearing in 2016 and wonder if the excessive heat today may have created another issue. Thoughts anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secondo Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Were your heat exchanger fans running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Pretty sure they were. I could hear them in the pit garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secondo Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Good. What do you have for an overflow tank? I don't see one in your mod list and I'm assuming it is stock but I see you have the Shelby billet cap set. Those aren't performance units, they are for looks only. I have also heard of the aluminum tank caps leaking. Try your next track day with the stock tank and cap. And check your power brake booster for leaks, too, if you replaced that cap as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIKEBOY Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Damn Blake, I'm sorry to hear this. What Sean has said makes total sense. The system needs to be COMPLETELY sealed. The fact that you were able to "carefully remove the cap" tells me that it was NOT totally sealed up. Plus the coolant would only typically "boil" if not sealed tightly. Good luck next time with those adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Good. What do you have for an overflow tank? I don't see one in your mod list and I'm assuming it is stock but I see you have the Shelby billet cap set. Those aren't performance units, they are for looks only. I have also heard of the aluminum tank caps leaking. Try your next track day with the stock tank and cap. And check your power brake booster for leaks, too, if you replaced that cap as well. I've got the larger plastic reservoir from VMP. It looks like the stock one, but just bigger. The cap may not be a performance part so I get that. The seal looked fine and it does have what appears to be a pressure release valve. I'm wondering if I need to replace that tank now since it bulged up severely or just try a stock cap and see what happens? Damn Blake, I'm sorry to hear this. What Sean has said makes total sense. The system needs to be COMPLETELY sealed. The fact that you were able to "carefully remove the cap" tells me that it was NOT totally sealed up. Plus the coolant would only typically "boil" if not sealed tightly. Good luck next time with those adjustments. Well.... I just got off the phone with the guys at VMP and he said the cap would not have anything to do with it so I'm getting conflicting opinions. He did say he has heard of guys installing a rear mounted tank that fits in the spare wheel area of the trunk which increases the volume of coolant 4X. That and switching to a Royal Purple coolant product that assists in shedding heat through the heat exchanger. I just don't want to keep throwing money at the issue if I can simply run the Cobra on the track instead. More research.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secondo Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 I ran 50 minute sessions at Poconos on my GT500 with the stock tank and cap without issue. Can you tell where the coolant is leaking from? I have heard of aftermarket caps leaking but not the stock ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
real_supersnake Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Check your intercooler pump. Mine went out and boiled my coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Check your intercooler pump. Mine went out and boiled my coolant. Actually that is on my list of "to do's" today. I am thinking that might be the problem as well. How much did it cost to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Just cranked up the car with both the radiator and supercharger reservoir caps off. Coolant is moving/flowing in the radiator reservoir. Stagnant in the Supercharger reservoir at idle. I did not have anyone available to rev the engine while I was checking, but I would think the coolant in the supercharger reservoir should be moving regardless... Yay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
real_supersnake Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 (edited) My car would go into limp mode on the track when I hit the straights and try to get into boost. It threw a code for intercooler pump failure. Check to see that the pump is still getting power. If it has power but your tank doesn't look like a jacuzzi (no rev needed) then you have a bad pump. Edited June 16, 2017 by f2redpot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad Horse Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 My car would go into limp mode on the track when I hit the straights and try to get into boost. It threw a code for intercooler pump failure. Check to see that the pump is still getting power. If it has power but your tank doesn't look like a jacuzzi (no rev needed) then you have a bad pump. Maybe you have an air pocket in the system. If the pump is running squeeze the lower tank hose to burb the system, Pump does not run the all time. Maybe you should install a manual pump override switch. All it does is ground a wire at the pump relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 I ran 50 minute sessions at Poconos on my GT500 with the stock tank and cap without issue. Can you tell where the coolant is leaking from? I have heard of aftermarket caps leaking but not the stock ones. Coolant was definitely coming from the cap... probably via the high pressure release valve. My car would go into limp mode on the track when I hit the straights and try to get into boost. It threw a code for intercooler pump failure. Check to see that the pump is still getting power. If it has power but your tank doesn't look like a jacuzzi (no rev needed) then you have a bad pump. Mine never threw the code or went into limp mode... but again I started to manage the problem and got out of the boost as much as possible. Maybe you have an air pocket in the system. If the pump is running squeeze the lower tank hose to burb the system, Pump does not run the all time. Maybe you should install a manual pump override switch. All it does is ground a wire at the pump relay. That is also a possibility I had not thought of and a good idea to install the override switch. Thanks to all for the comments and I welcome any more ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 (edited) Did a little more research today, checked my fuses, checked for air lock, etc. I'm pretty sure the pump failed. There are some aftermarket pumps that offer greater GPM flow than stock. Any recommendations? Also saw a Moroso Mustang GT500 Oversized Dual Coolant/Supercharger Expansion Tank (07-12 GT500) that replaces both plastic tanks. It appears this would use the coolant from the radiator and the heat exchanger to cool both the engine and supercharger simultaneously as one system rather than two. Wonder what the pros/cons would be with this? https://www.steeda.com/moroso-mustang-gt500-oversized-dual-coolant-supercharger-expansion-tank-07-12-gt500-369-63804.html Edited June 17, 2017 by ViperNC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheppd01 Posted June 18, 2017 Report Share Posted June 18, 2017 I had the same problem on my KR. I tried to hand prime for what seemed like days. I would see the fluid in the tank move while priming but it didn't clear the air bubble. I put a jumper on the pump relay and It felt like it was turning on but the fluid was not moving. I finally was going to give up and buy a new pump. I was removing the pump with the jumper still in place. When the pump came loose from the bracket I saw the pump jump as the air pocket was kicked loose. It works great now lol. I have no idea how long it wasn't really pumping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2017 Wow.... it makes me also wonder how long mine has not been working properly. This was the first event since last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 Looks like my car is headed for the shop today. Talked with my guy and we agree the pump is probably dead... and has been for a while. Hopefully no other damage at this point. He is recommending the Ford Racing intercooler pump so probably get that installed and maybe a new plastic reservoir just in case. He did not recommend using the aluminum tank as that transfers heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 Update: Well.... Feeling a little stupid now. As it turns out, the wiring harness pigtail was not fully clipped together and the pump works just fine. It's the one thing I did not check prior to taking to the repair shop. DOH! Replacing the coolant tank anyway to be on the safe side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingrider Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Bummer you were so close- a new Ford Racing pump might have been a good addition what with the nose off and there reconnecting the stock one. w brackets they run about 230.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Actually, we reconnected the wiring before taking the nose off so that saved quite a bit of effort. The stock pump is actually quite good and through my research I discovered the pumps that have a higher GPM flow are tested in a non pressurized environment. Once installed in the car, they apparently don't flow much more than the stock pump. The good news is the coolant tank looks like a whirlpool now so that is good. Next track day coming up soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkside323 Posted July 13, 2017 Report Share Posted July 13, 2017 Craziness!!!! Similar thing occurred with my car a couple of years ago at a track day at Willow Springs. Going into a fast turn the car burst the lower radiator hose, and caused the car to spin out. At the time no cooling mods had been done and I presumed that lead to the occurrence. After installation of larger heat exchanger and lower temp thermostat I discovered that the pump was dead. Changed it out and have not had any temp problems since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slbgtsc Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 (edited) Actually, we reconnected the wiring before taking the nose off so that saved quite a bit of effort. The stock pump is actually quite good and through my research I discovered the pumps that have a higher GPM flow are tested in a non pressurized environment. Once installed in the car, they apparently don't flow much more than the stock pump. The good news is the coolant tank looks like a whirlpool now so that is good. Next track day coming up soon! I've actually done testing on my system with various pumps/multiple pumps in line and there is definitely a difference in pumps and flow. I ended up with a 2013 GT500 pump as it flowed the best on a closed system under pressure. Simple to change out the pigtails and it will move the water much better than a stock Bosch pump. I've included a couple of videos of my testing with 2 Bosch pumps with my entire system (AFCO Dual pas) and my new system Steeda Triple Pass with fans and 2013 GT500 pump. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fn6WD0hmRXk https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dVbqCnWbO0w Edited July 14, 2017 by slbgtsc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Update: Well.... Feeling a little stupid now. As it turns out, the wiring harness pigtail was not fully clipped together and the pump works just fine. It's the one thing I did not check prior to taking to the repair shop. DOH! Replacing the coolant tank anyway to be on the safe side. I wouldn't feel stupid, you were trying to diagnose something that you assumed was working for sometime when in fact it wasn't. Very easy to overlook. We all "over think" a problem. I good friend of mine always states "look for the cheapest, easiest fix first". Why do ya think the first thing on the electrical check list is.... "Is the unit plugged in?" Glad you found it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07gt500conv Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Good Job Blake, Mine pump died on my 500 running around on the street. Every time I got into Boost. Replaced the pump and all is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted July 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 I guess this is just my year for issues. Back at CMP last night for SCCA Track Night and the GT500 was running great. Running advanced group with a Roush, 2 Corvettes (2015 Z06 and 2013 Special Edition 427), and a 2010 BMW M3. The five of us were running hard and passing some of the smaller displacement cars left and right. I was up front when the Roush spun coming out of 12 so then it was just me and the two Vettes behind me after the M3 went into the pit lane. 5 hard laps later I'm exiting 14 onto the front straight.... and my Shelby dual disc racing clutch with less than 3000 miles on it catastrophically fails. RPM's shoot up and bump off the rev limiter and I'm done. I was able to nurse the car back into the garage and let everything cool down hoping I "might" be able to drive home, but no such luck. I attempted to leave CMP and the first slight incline I faced leaving the paddock killed the clutch entirely. I'm in gear and the car isn't moving at all. I tried reverse and hear a high pitched squeal for a short moment and the car still wont move. Toast. Nada. Nothing...... Tow Truck. Ball Ache. Called Shelby Performance Parts and basically got the story they can't do anything (which I understand as I bought the clutch a year ago) and also spoke to Erik at Ace Racing Clutches. Erik stated they will make good on this problem, but he also said something about having problems with their clutch kit for 2007 - 2009 cars. Not really sure what that is all about right now, but he and I will be speaking again very soon. I got 25000+ miles out of my stock clutch and have never had a clutch fail on me like this on the street or track. Ace will likely replace/repair under warranty, but I'm worried about putting this product back in my car after such a premature failure. Yay ME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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