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Shelby Dakota 437 Gets a Real Motor....


Golden-Arm
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finally got some time, and finished up the motor to be dropped in. i'll share some pics, and post whenever something worthy of sharing happens.

 

GUYS, I'M IN NEED OF AN UNDERHOOD WIRING DIAGRAM, FOR THE SHELBY DAKOTA.

 

i've removed mine entirely, i'm going to "prune" out anything unneeded to run the carburated motor, and go with a chrome box type ignition system.

 

here's the last few shots, before the work begins. this was originally red, but i stripped and painted it PXR Black Pearl paint. it's the paint used on the 300's and chargers. solid black with some nice iridescent pearl powder in it.

 

LAST_SHOT_BEFORE_SWAP.jpg

 

i posted the tear-down and paintjob over on moparts, a few years ago. the engine bay wasn't done, as i was still driving her, and wasn't ready to get into finishing it up. the engine is out, and the bay is getting prepped for paint. i have a few things to finish up, and i'll hit it with my detail gun and drop in the new motor.

 

SHELBY_BUTT.jpg

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i stripped the front end, pulling the bumper, airdam, radiator, oil cooler, condenser, etc., and then pulled all the a/c stuff, up to the firewall. all parts were tagged and bagged, and all connections got a tag at each end, to make it super easy to throw it all back together.

 

FRONT_END_STRIP.jpg

 

headers pulled, starter, a/c lines, etc. disconnected all hoses and lines, and get ready for the engine hoist.

 

A_C_REMOVAL.jpg

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looking into the bay, you can see the power steering is gone. i replaced it with a manual rack, from mopar performance. the idler pulley and bracket are homemade, and necessary, as the belts to run the waterpump are run off the power steering pump and crank.

 

MOTOR_PREP.jpg

 

the SMEC (computer) shown is for sale, in my other thread, in this section. it works fine, i'm just going "old school", with a roller 340 motor, running a quick fuel slayer 780 carb atop an edelbrock rpm airgap intake.

 

SMEC_SHOT.jpg

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making quick work of this deal, i unbolted the bellhousing from the block, pried the torque converter from the input shaft on the trans, and hoisted out the anemic 318. it's an okay motor, from rolling around town, but at a 175 rated horsepower, it leaves a lot to be desired in a shelby badged ride. (wife was taking pics, unbeknownst to me) motor is out, and i'm strapping the trans up into it's normal position, using a 4X4 across the hood hinges, and a ratchet strap hooked into the belhousing bolt holes.

 

MOTOR_PULLED_TRANS_STRAP.jpg

 

 

there's a jack under the trans, holding it up. this pic was really before the pic above, but i shot it myself, not knowing what was going on behind me. :P

SMEC is pulled and bagged, for selling, and all wire ends and plugs are being pulled, and labeled. once everything is pulled, i'll roll her outside and powerwash the engine bay, and start prepping it for paint

 

MOTOR_PULLED.jpg.

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here's the result of a few hours of carefully removing the harness, and all of the mounting tabs, tape and convoluted tubing, etc. i took the entire electrical system out of the truck, from the bulkhead connector at the firewall, forward to the lights. all of the wire ends are tagged, and all harness tape and tubing was removed, to facilitate disassembling the harness, to keep only the parts needed, for lights, horn, wipers, etc. i'll have a keyed power, and a dedicated power supply to run the motor. everything will be a 1970 dodge 340 system, as far as the underhood area is concerned. i did leave the heater wiring intact, as it's not part of the electrical system, from the bulkhead connector.

 

COMP_REMOVED.jpg

 

 

here's at least 34 miles of wires, apparently needed to run a computer controlled car. i'll save the 14 feet of wiring needed, for the lights and horn, of course. :drool:

i could really use a wiring diagram, if anyone has one. i need to see what i can pull from the bulkhead connector, to save the shelby-exclusive wirting, for the next guy that needs it.

 

WIRING_HARNESSES.jpg

Edited by Golden-Arm
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i'll pull the torque converter, and hang this pig on the engine stand. i need to pull the oil pan, and the alternator brackets, etc. the truck pan has a rear sump, unlike the car pans, which have a front sump, or center sump. final pic is the beginning of engine teardown. notice the chain is loose, and the motor is actually sitting on 4 jackstands. i'll have to remove the 340 from the engine stand, to get the 318 on it, to roll it over and get into the bottom end. the next phase is to paint the engine bay. i might post a couple of pics, showing what it looks like, to get it right. enjoy....

 

MOTOR_STRIP.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

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