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leaking pinion seal.. advice??


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Just picked up the 2007 SGT last night.. went to get the oil changed and was advised that rear pinion seal is leaking..I went into the pit and sure enough... so my question is this!! I read that shelby swapped out the whole rear end instead of just the gears.. Is this true? If it is true is there a different part number for the seal or is it the same as stock 2007 gt? I need to order a service manual so in the meantime does anyone have torque spec for pinion flange? And maybe seal number?

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you mentioned that you need to order a service manual in your original post. You can download it for free at ford.com. You can also download your warranty info and recommended service intervals for free as well... and you can also print out TSB's.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just picked up the 2007 SGT last night.. went to get the oil changed and was advised that rear pinion seal is leaking..I went into the pit and sure enough... so my question is this!! I read that shelby swapped out the whole rear end instead of just the gears.. Is this true? If it is true is there a different part number for the seal or is it the same as stock 2007 gt? I need to order a service manual so in the meantime does anyone have torque spec for pinion flange? And maybe seal number?

No specific torque since when tightening the pinion nut it also crushes the sleeve. Take an inch pound reading before you remove the nut and flange and tighten it back up until you get the same reading. If you overthighten your crush sleeve will have to be replaced. Normally the reading should be around 12-20 in/lbs (check the manual) but since everything is still assembled the reading will need to be way above that spec since you are turning the wheels including brake pads drag. Good luck.

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Thanks shelby3 but I have decided to take it to the dealer. I would have to think back to be certain but I believe this will be the first time I have had someone other than myself repair a vehicle. So handing the keys over this morning will be tough at best.. a pre drop off video of condition will be made prior to leaving it. Not that I'm anal, I just don't believe people give a sh#t and would not say anything if something happened. No more accountability in this world.

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Thanks shelby3 but I have decided to take it to the dealer. I would have to think back to be certain but I believe this will be the first time I have had someone other than myself repair a vehicle. So handing the keys over this morning will be tough at best.. a pre drop off video of condition will be made prior to leaving it. Not that I'm anal, I just don't believe people give a sh#t and would not say anything if something happened. No more accountability in this world.

 

 

I would also let them know that you've recorded the mileage at set whatever your limitations are on test drives with the service manager in advance

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So I just got the call back the car is done the total is $301.67.. the only thing they replaced was this seal. I think that is ridiculous and I will be looking for a new dealer to be working on my vehicle

 

Not so ridiculous when you're talking about a dealer. 2.5 - 3 hours of labor easy, x $85 - $100 an hour, depending on their hourly labor rate. Part + fluid because it surely lost some during the process. Remember, dealers get the labor cost from a book that tells them how many hours to charge for each job. I don't take my car to a dealer for anything but inspection and recalls.

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No fluid, seal only!! $48 for seal and $250 for labor. The service manager emailed me back today and he said he was suprised that I was quoted more than 1.5 hrs for the job, but then said he talked with the tech and it was 45 extra minutes to remove the carrier bearing so the driveshaft could be removed.. Hmmmmm

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No fluid, seal only!! $48 for seal and $250 for labor. The service manager emailed me back today and he said he was suprised that I was quoted more than 1.5 hrs for the job, but then said he talked with the tech and it was 45 extra minutes to remove the carrier bearing so the driveshaft could be removed.. Hmmmmm

 

 

Yeah, now that sounds kind of fishy. As does the $48 seal. I replaced mine a few years ago with a ford oem part from the dealer and it certainly wasn't that much. I'd have to look but I'm pretty sure I paid around 23 for it. I changed it out myself, and the drive shaft came out with no issues. The carrier bearing in the middle of the driveshaft has two bolts holding it in so 45 minutes would be extreme to add jut for that. Again, that's why I never use the dealer for any of that. Find a trusted mech or a speed/performance shop for work on it.

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