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Watts Link


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Just got the new BMR watts system delivered. I'll post some pictures and a review when I get it installed. I previously ran the Fay2 system which I liked but it rattled a little too much for me.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1565

 

 

Okay so finally got around to installing the BMR watts link. I tried to post a link over to the S197 Forum and a thread by Cobrared as he did a great job of covering the install on several videos ( for whatever reason that site is blocked on our site?). I will tell you that if you go the BMR route as a SGT owner you need to be aware of the following issue. The Eibach/Ford Racing rear sway bar and more specifically the rear sway bar links are not compatible with the BMR system. The Eibach/FRP sway bar links are 5 1/2" center to center in length compared to the stock links being 6 7/8". The shorter links cause the sway bar to contact the watts frame so you have a couple of options (A) source stock sway bar links for a 22mm bar (B) purchase Steeda sway bar links and make sure you let them know you have a 22mm/7/8" bar so they ship you the correct bushings, (C ) use BMR sway bar links. I used Steeda links because it kept me from taking the sway bar completely off and they look close to the Eiback units.

 

I was on the pre-production list for BMR so I had a couple of issues with the wrong parts being shipped in my kit, and by now this should have been remedied. I went with the rod end unit and then put boots on the outer rod ends to protect them and to mitigate any noise from the rod ends. These boots are easy to install and may be a good option for those of you running the Fays setup. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers3 Dylan and Kelley at BMR have been great at getting back to me on questions as I got my system setup. Overall the system is easy to install and is a 4-5 hour project assuming you have all of the necessary tools, parts etc.

 

I finished up last night so I have not had a chance to drive it so look for my comments later today.

Pivot.JPG

Rod ends.JPG

BMR Pass.JPG

BMR Watts drivers.JPG

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I have run the Fay's unit since 2008 and do not have the rattling issue. Regardless, I will be interested in the photos when they are available. BMR products are historically high quality.

 

Jim

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Definitely looking forward to the pics and any info from the install as to what may have been a pain or not. My son and I installed BMR front and rear on the SGT and it was 80% easy to do. We had a hard time with A Arms and the K Member but that is a whole thread to itself.

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Couple pertinent threads:

 

You have entered a link to a website that the administrator does not allow links to

 

Search s197forum dot com Corner Carver Racing Tech Forum where there is insight from the designer/developer and photos of an ongoing installation.

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Couple pertinent threads:

 

You have entered a link to a website that the administrator does not allow links to

 

Search s197forum dot com Corner Carver Racing Tech Forum where there is insight from the designer/developer and photos of an ongoing installation.

yes I've been following his thread.

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Help in North Dallas, reputable, knowledgeable Mechanic needed. Has anyone in the Dallas area had the Fay's Watts link installed? I had mine installed by a shop in McKinney and it is not adjusted right. Unbelievable after $2100.00 to install along with several other items the whole axle was kicked to the driver side, when I complained the owner/manager said bring it back we'll get it taken care of. After the car sitting there for two weeks for a set of front brake pads and the adjustment it still wasn't fixed. I spoke to Fay's and they're trying to help me out but this is very frustrating. Fay's doesn't have an install shop in North Texas, closest place is Houston.

Why take the job if you can't do the work, now I'm stuck trying to get this corrected. I'm a little Leary of even driving the car for fear of harming anything because on suspension compression there is definitely contact, terrible bang. I spoke with the mechanics who wrenched on the car and he said he needed a four post lift, aren't there other ways to load the suspension and make the adjustments?

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Help in North Dallas, reputable, knowledgeable Mechanic needed. Has anyone in the Dallas area had the Fay's Watts link installed? I had mine installed by a shop in McKinney and it is not adjusted right. Unbelievable after $2100.00 to install along with several other items the whole axle was kicked to the driver side, when I complained the owner/manager said bring it back we'll get it taken care of. After the car sitting there for two weeks for a set of front brake pads and the adjustment it still wasn't fixed. I spoke to Fay's and they're trying to help me out but this is very frustrating. Fay's doesn't have an install shop in North Texas, closest place is Houston.

Why take the job if you can't do the work, now I'm stuck trying to get this corrected. I'm a little Leary of even driving the car for fear of harming anything because on suspension compression there is definitely contact, terrible bang. I spoke with the mechanics who wrenched on the car and he said he needed a four post lift, aren't there other ways to load the suspension and make the adjustments?

 

How good are you at turning a wrench? Not trying to be smart, but with a set of ramps and jack-stands, this is a DIY install, and Jim Fays is an excellent resource, always available. It sounds like the shop never centered the rear suspension before tightening everything down. That won't necessarily make the car dangerous to drive, but it does kinda defeat part of the purpose of the Watts link!

 

A lift is the best way to go, but I used the ramp method when I did mine and everything came out just fine. The key is to keep weight on a leveled suspension and install the watts link, but don't tighten anything until you pull the body/axle centered with a ratchet strap or something similar. If you're looking at the back of the car, most SGT's rear axles are offset slightly to the right because when they lowered the car, the panhard bar, which is unadjustable, pulled it that way. So, if you DIY or take it to a shop, attach one end of a ratchet strap to the axle, and then, (avoiding the Watts link) attach the other end to a fixed point on the driver's side of the car body, and ratchet the axle to the center. You can get the axle dead-center with a little effort, but I went with strings attached to the side of the car and measured the distance to the wheel hubs as I pulled the axle - when the measurements were the same for both sides, I torqued everything down and was done!

 

Sam

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Thanks, I spoke with Curtis Norman from Houston (Great Guy) gave me some pointers. I'm going to get it in the air and walk through what your telling me and a few recommendations from Curtis. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to handle this, he even offered to get on the phone with me and talk me through the adjustments.

Appreciate the feedback, that's what I love about Team Shelby, someone's got the answer to the problem!

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  • 1 month later...

I have run the Fay's unit since 2008 and do not have the rattling issue. Regardless, I will be interested in the photos when they are available. BMR products are historically high quality.

 

Jim

I had some clicking noise and a rattle that I attribute to the drivers side axle link rubbing the tailpipe as it comes over the axle housing. I have a mark on the exhaust pipe where it was rubbing. It is a good system for sure.

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