Floor jack locations for our shelby's

[GT500SC07]

Went through the owners manual and it did not call out any specific locations. Should you lift on the inner rail or the outer rail? Are there other locations and if so where? I know many of you have done work under your cars, where did you place your jack?

 

 

Thanks for all your help

 

Scott

[LuckySnake]

I'm still use to putting it under the diff in the back, but am told that is a big no no on this car.

 

On the front I just look for a heavy duty part near the cross member, couldn't find locations listed on the car or in the book.

I have always used a 1" block of wood under the diff when jacking the rear up and never had a problem. I use the Steeda frame stiffeners to rest it on the jack stands. I always use ramps at home for the front end.

[carnut]

I'm still use to putting it under the diff in the back, but am told that is a big no no on this car.

 

On the front I just look for a heavy duty part near the cross member, couldn't find locations listed on the car or in the book.

 

The owner's manual has been saying the differential is a no no on 8.8's for years. I think there must a potential for cracking the cast iron case. I still do the no-no but I have a soft rubber pad on the jack and not had a problem. I would not do it if the jack has a steel pad, as it has no give and can result in a very high point load. The soft rubber spreads the load out.

 

Ford won't replace your cracked housing if you do jack it up from there.

 

Again, on the cross member make sure you have a rubber pad, not a small steel one as it will dent it.

[LuckySnake]

The owner's manual has been saying the differential is a no no on 8.8's for years. I think there must a potential for cracking the cast iron case. I still do the no-no but I have a soft rubber pad on the jack and not had a problem. I would not do it if the jack has a steel pad, as it has no give and can result in a very high point load. The soft rubber spreads the load out.

 

Ford won't replace your cracked housing if you do jack it up from there.

 

Again, on the cross member make sure you have a rubber pad, not a small steel one as it will dent it.

Good info thanks. I also found since lowering the car that jacking is a bear if I don't use one floor jack to lift the car a little from the Steeda brace, then I can get under and have room to jack using the diff with another floor jack. Input appreciated.

[5.4 Shelby]

I'm pretty sure I have a .pdf that shows the jacking locations. It must be on my work computer. I'll check tomorrow and see if I can post it.

[5.4 Shelby]

I found the file. Here it is:

 

Lift Points

[carrera]

I found the file. Here it is:

 

Lift Points

 

 

Great information-thanks much!

Mike

[SpeedRacer]

I found the file. Here it is:

 

Lift Points

 

5.4,

 

This is great. It's a pain to use my 4 post lift (I store my 1965 fastback on it) and I just bought a new low profile, aluminum racing jack to work on the car (required since I lowered the GT500). This info will help tremendously. Thanks.

 

Stuart

[5.4 Shelby]

No problem, guys. I downloaded that off one of the forums a long time ago. Happy to share it.

[Three Cobras]

I found the file. Here it is:

 

Lift Points

 

5.4 -

The picture of the Mustang in the linked file does not look like an '05 or newer to me. (picture AY-0365A -front control arms different, single rear fuel tank in back of axle). Is that an old manual?

FWIW, I think the issue will jacking on the hog's head may have to do with having a sloppily positioned jack bend the rear cover stamping resulting in fluid leaking and draining the differential dry causing failure. Can't imagine why jacking on the tubes is better.

[TexasShelby]

I found the file. Here it is:

 

Lift Points

 

 

Wow...

 

Thanks so much. That is some really great info. I just printed it, laminated it and putting with my Shelby paperwork. It's invaluable.

 

:banana piano:

[Fastbackman]

I can't get the link to work. Tried several times.

[5.4 Shelby]

5.4 -

The picture of the Mustang in the linked file does not look like an '05 or newer to me. (picture AY-0365A -front control arms different, single rear fuel tank in back of axle). Is that an old manual?

FWIW, I think the issue will jacking on the hog's head may have to do with having a sloppily positioned jack bend the rear cover stamping resulting in fluid leaking and draining the differential dry causing failure. Can't imagine why jacking on the tubes is better.

I took this from the bottom of the page:

 

Copyright ã 2006, Ford Motor Company

Last updated: 8/9/2006 2007 Pre-Delivery, 7/2006

[5.4 Shelby]

I can't get the link to work. Tried several times.

PM me your email address and I will email it to you.

[TexasShelby]

Fastbackman,

 

I just sent you the file...it should be in your yahoo mail.

[Son of GT]

Even with the lo pro jacks, it's quite difficult to get the jack under the car far enough for the jack pad to make contact with the proper lift point. For what it's worth, I made a simple ramp up board that I drive the car up on to which then gives me ample room to position the jack under the car. The ramp ups are quite easy to make. Just take a 2" thick by 12" wide plank and cut a 2 foot length. Then cut another one in a 1 foot length, and another in a 6" length. Take the three lengths and using the 2 foot plank on the bottom, screw or nail the 1 foot plank onto the 2 foot plank centered, then the 6" plank onto the 1 foot plank centered. In the end, the 2 foot plank will step up to the 1 foot plank which inturn steps up to the 6" plank. I think that you get the picture. In the end, the car rases up 6" which is plenty of room to position the jack properly.

 

Oh, for an added touch, you can glue a hard rubber or neoprine pad on the bottom of the 2 foot plank so it does not shift when you are driving up on them.

[carnut]

I tried the ramp, and now I keep having to fix the flats that the screws and nails are giving me

[Alloy Dave]

Thanks

I do find it odd that they want you to lift on an axle, but not at the hogshead?

Bill I think the main reason they want you to avoid the hogs head is that there are too many things that can "go wrong" if you lift there. For example, if you get one of the jack "tangs" on the differential cover, you'll bend it and create a leak. Or, if you get the jack too far forward, you're lifting on the snout where the pinion bearing is...and you could either snap it off or get the jack on the driveshaft and cause problems. I'll probably get flamed for this, but I lift mine on the center section all the time...but I'm very careful about where exactly I locate the jack and use a wooden "cushion" to avoid jacking directly on a casting boss.

 

Dave

[BADBOY500]

Even with the lo pro jacks, it's quite difficult to get the jack under the car far enough for the jack pad to make contact with the proper lift point. For what it's worth, I made a simple ramp up board that I drive the car up on to which then gives me ample room to position the jack under the car. The ramp ups are quite easy to make. Just take a 2" thick by 12" wide plank and cut a 2 foot length. Then cut another one in a 1 foot length, and another in a 6" length. Take the three lengths and using the 2 foot plank on the bottom, screw or nail the 1 foot plank onto the 2 foot plank centered, then the 6" plank onto the 1 foot plank centered. In the end, the 2 foot plank will step up to the 1 foot plank which inturn steps up to the 6" plank. I think that you get the picture. In the end, the car rases up 6" which is plenty of room to position the jack properly.

 

Oh, for an added touch, you can glue a hard rubber or neoprine pad on the bottom of the 2 foot plank so it does not shift when you are driving up on them.

This is what I use, but I'm a bit obsessed !!! Still need a jack from time to time....

[Three Cobras]

I took this from the bottom of the page:

5.4 -

Roger that. But it still looks like the underside of my wife's 2001 V-6, not my GT500. Maybe the same jack points still apply.

[Super Snake]

I use a floor jack and Jack stands

I put the jack at the aft outboard K member attachment. I rested the car on the K mamber L&R

in the back I used the fwd attachment point for the LCA and placed the jackstand on the rear axel.

I did not have both front and back off the ground at the same time

this provided me with pleanty of roon to get under the car

[jcthorne]

If you add the subframe connectors with jacking rails, you can lift from any point along the side of the car between the wheels. Very convienient when changing tires at the track.

[Super Snake]

If you add the subframe connectors with jacking rails, you can lift from any point along the side of the car between the wheels. Very convienient when changing tires at the track.

 

yes in deed

do they even make a subframe connector for this car?

[5.4 Shelby]

yes in deed

do they even make a subframe connector for this car?

He has them listed in his sig.

 

Do they need to be welded in?

 

Did you notice a difference in ride/handling?

 

How much?

 

Where did you get them/who makes them?

 

Thanks.

 

Kevin.

[SSGT500]

I don't raise mine with the jack under the center section. I'm concerned that the housings on the 8.8 are lighter and thinner than previous differentials. It may be possible to bend the axle assembly slightly and put the axle/bearings out of alignment.

[jcthorne]

He has them listed in his sig.

 

Do they need to be welded in?

 

Did you notice a difference in ride/handling?

 

How much?

 

Where did you get them/who makes them?

 

Thanks.

 

Kevin.

They are available from several sources. BMR, Granitelli and others. I used Granitelli purely because they were prefinished in blue which matched my car. BMRs are the same but black. Yes they require welding and minor fitting. They also replace the rear torque box brace that Steeda sells. Handling improvement initially is minimal but body noises, rattles and flex as the car ages are MUCH improved vs a non SFC car.