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Cleaning Your Gt-H


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Good morning to all,

 

I understood some years ago that some cleaners could do harm or shorten the life of the vinyl on cars with stripes. What would be a good choice of cleaner/wax polish on these beautiful cars. I have used Turtle wax Ice synthetic wax on a few of my cars and like it, and Black Magic wet shine car wash but my past cars did not have stripes. the stripes on my car are in beautiful condition, any tricks or advice on preserving them.

 

thank you

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Good morning to all,

 

I understood some years ago that some cleaners could do harm or shorten the life of the vinyl on cars with stripes. What would be a good choice of cleaner/wax polish on these beautiful cars. I have used Turtle wax Ice synthetic wax on a few of my cars and like it, and Black Magic wet shine car wash but my past cars did not have stripes. the stripes on my car are in beautiful condition, any tricks or advice on preserving them.

 

thank you

 

Note that this question isn't really specific to the GTH but to black cars in general... Warning: The care and feeding of black paint can trigger an OCD response. Don't ask me how I know.

 

I used Turtle Wax Ice, both paste and liquid, on all my plastic parts including stripes, but also on the mirrors and front parts. The polish kept the stripes looking new, and also made cleaning the bugs and other stuff off the plastic trim parts much easier.

 

My regimen was an annual event: Wash with a good quality dish detergent (yes, really) to remove the previous year's wax. Then clay bar everything, including the stripes, being very careful never to approach the edge of the strip from the low side with the clay bar. The clay bar uses the detailer for the liquid base, but after I was done I went over the car completely one more time with detailer to remove any remaining residue, and then used two coats of the Ice paste. Then detailer one more time to level out any places that might have some inequalities in application.

 

Then during the season I would wash with the Ice car wash, and every other time, use the Ice liquid polish/wax. It kept the car glowing.

 

FYI mine was a Barrett Jackson, so black with red stripes. This also kept the micro-scratches to what I thought was a minimum as I was able to get through three seasons with this before I took it to a deailer to get a full polish.

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Note that this question isn't really specific to the GTH but to black cars in general... Warning: The care and feeding of black paint can trigger an OCD response. Don't ask me how I know.

 

I used Turtle Wax Ice, both paste and liquid, on all my plastic parts including stripes, but also on the mirrors and front parts. The polish kept the stripes looking new, and also made cleaning the bugs and other stuff off the plastic trim parts much easier.

 

My regimen was an annual event: Wash with a good quality dish detergent (yes, really) to remove the previous year's wax. Then clay bar everything, including the stripes, being very careful never to approach the edge of the strip from the low side with the clay bar. The clay bar uses the detailer for the liquid base, but after I was done I went over the car completely one more time with detailer to remove any remaining residue, and then used two coats of the Ice paste. Then detailer one more time to level out any places that might have some inequalities in application.

 

Then during the season I would wash with the Ice car wash, and every other time, use the Ice liquid polish/wax. It kept the car glowing.

 

FYI mine was a Barrett Jackson, so black with red stripes. This also kept the micro-scratches to what I thought was a minimum as I was able to get through three seasons with this before I took it to a deailer to get a full polish.

WOW, great response and answer. Glad to hear liquid Ice polish/wax is ok to use, I really like the product. It is near perfect now, I just want to keep it that way. Thanks

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The liquid shouldn't be your primary. It's somewhere between the detailer and the paste in protection/coverage. Note that the sun in Colorado at 6000' was brutal and it seemed to "eat" the wax away even if it never got in rain.

 

P.S. Avoid "california dusters" on black paint. And when using detailer use a well broken-in microfiber cloth. My best and softest one now is one that I moved from the soap wash to the post rinse wipe down and now to detailer cleanup.

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I just had mine detailed. The detail shop "applied multiple stages of machine polish work to remove imperfections from the clear coat." Then he recommended Opti-Coat Pro as the final stage.

 

"Opti-Coat (Opti-Guard) is a hard wearing, aftermarket, ceramic clear coat for superior resistance to scratching (9H) and chemical etching from environmental impacts. It provides permanent protection for all factory paints, and can also be applied to exterior glass, metal and hard plastic surfaces.

Opti-Coat is not a wax or sealant like other products on the market. It is a ceramic clear coating very similar to factory type clear coats. A layer of Opti-Coat measures approx. 2 microns in thickness, or about 100 times thicker than your typical wax or sealant."

 

The car looks GREAT, the black paint is even more black! The Opti-Coat Pro was very expensive, $500 applied. Was it worth it, time will tell. He says I won't have to wax the car for two years. It was not applied to the stripes.

 

Interesting note regarding my stripes, the original stripes have been covered by a newer set of stripes. Same for the rocker stripes. The owner before me, the owner after Hertz, did not apply the second set of stripes. So they were applied during the first year, or at the dealer who sold him the car. They look good and it is very hard to tell.

 

To keep from causing swirl marks during the washing and drying process, the detailer recommends:

 

You’ll need:

  • 3 buckets
  • 3 grit guards
  • package of microfiber towels from Costco
  • A mild auto washing soap
  • EZ Detail brushes for cleaning wheels and wheel wells
One is your wash bucket with two new microfiber towels, one is your rinse bucket, and one is dedicated for wheel cleaning with a microfiber towel. Use grit guards in your rinse bucket, wash bucket and wheel bucket. For the rinse bucket in particular, this helps dislodge dirt and debris from the wash mitt, and then keeps the abrasive sediment at the bottom where it is away from the cleaner water at the top. The reason you need a rinse bucket is because you want the water in your wash bucket to remain clean throughout the entire process. When washing your car always be sure to remove the tags from your microfiber towels as well as be sure to only use new microfiber towels.
For drying I recommend using some type of forced air. When drying a car at my
house, I prefer to use a shop vac to dry the exterior. By using compressed air you will have a much lower chance of scratching the exterior versus drying the exterior with a towel.
This sounds like a lot of work, but if it keeps the paint looking as good as it looks now, I got the time.
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I just had mine detailed. The detail shop "applied multiple stages of machine polish work to remove imperfections from the clear coat." Then he recommended Opti-Coat Pro as the final stage.

 

"Opti-Coat (Opti-Guard) is a hard wearing, aftermarket, ceramic clear coat for superior resistance to scratching (9H) and chemical etching from environmental impacts. It provides permanent protection for all factory paints, and can also be applied to exterior glass, metal and hard plastic surfaces.

 

Opti-Coat is not a wax or sealant like other products on the market. It is a ceramic clear coating very similar to factory type clear coats. A layer of Opti-Coat measures approx. 2 microns in thickness, or about 100 times thicker than your typical wax or sealant."

 

The car looks GREAT, the black paint is even more black! The Opti-Coat Pro was very expensive, $500 applied. Was it worth it, time will tell. He says I won't have to wax the car for two years. It was not applied to the stripes.

 

Interesting note regarding my stripes, the original stripes have been covered by a newer set of stripes. Same for the rocker stripes. The owner before me, the owner after Hertz, did not apply the second set of stripes. So they were applied during the first year, or at the dealer who sold him the car. They look good and it is very hard to tell.

 

To keep from causing swirl marks during the washing and drying process, the detailer recommends:

 

You’ll need:

  • 3 buckets
  • 3 grit guards
  • package of microfiber towels from Costco
  • A mild auto washing soap
  • EZ Detail brushes for cleaning wheels and wheel wells
One is your wash bucket with two new microfiber towels, one is your rinse bucket, and one is dedicated for wheel cleaning with a microfiber towel. Use grit guards in your rinse bucket, wash bucket and wheel bucket. For the rinse bucket in particular, this helps dislodge dirt and debris from the wash mitt, and then keeps the abrasive sediment at the bottom where it is away from the cleaner water at the top. The reason you need a rinse bucket is because you want the water in your wash bucket to remain clean throughout the entire process. When washing your car always be sure to remove the tags from your microfiber towels as well as be sure to only use new microfiber towels.
For drying I recommend using some type of forced air. When drying a car at my
house, I prefer to use a shop vac to dry the exterior. By using compressed air you will have a much lower chance of scratching the exterior versus drying the exterior with a towel.
This sounds like a lot of work, but if it keeps the paint looking as good as it looks now, I got the time.

 

Being retired now I also have a lot of time. The car was professionally prepared and advertised before I purchased it. I'm not sure what they did, but the car shines like a new one. I think I will do my best to keep it like new during this summer and before I bring it out next spring I will get the Opti-coat treatment. that really sounds like the way to go for the extra protection, and deep shine that I want.

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I use Griots Garage Best Of Show Wax and the stripes i use 303 Aerospace Protect. If you wax the stripes they will crack vinyl stripes doesn't like wax. I also have a 1997 Woodward Dream Cruise Mustang i bought brand new and i use 303 Aerospace Protect on the stripes and to this day the stripes still look new.

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I use Griots Garage Best Of Show Wax and the stripes i use 303 Aerospace Protect. If you wax the stripes they will crack vinyl stripes doesn't like wax. I also have a 1997 Woodward Dream Cruise Mustang i bought brand new and i use 303 Aerospace Protect on the stripes and to this day the stripes still look new.

I know the stripes are a very big concern. The 303 Aerospace protect looks like a good product. I checked its availability, and found a lot of places sell the product locally. In case others might be interested I copied the below information for others to read about the product.

 

Originally engineered for aerospace and aviation applications, 303® Aerospace Protectant™ has found its way into millions of homes for day-to-day use on vehicles, sports equipment and more. Unlike many protectants that leave greasy residues, Aerospace dries to a clear matte finish without a trace of oil. And because it’s water-based, this protectant is safe to use on all products, from your vehicle’s paint job and leather seats to internal engine parts.

There’s a lot of power packed into this one product. A premium surface treatment, Aerospace not only protects against fading, discoloration and cracking from harmful UV rays, but repels dust and stains, too. Simply spray on and wipe dry for a beautiful, matte finish that protects your vehicle from road grime and favorite belongings from dust and soiling. Best of all, each application will last for months.

No other protectant beautifies as intensely or preserves as powerfully. Keep UV-sensitive materials looking new, year after year.

Usage Directions:

Use only on clean surfaces. For best results use 303® Multi-Surface Cleaner™. Place a drop cloth under the cleaner to be treated to catch any overspray. Out of direct sun, spray surface with 303® Aerospace Protectant™ and WIPE COMPLETELY DRY. If streaking occurs, too much product has been used. Use a wet towel to remove excess, IMMEDIATELY WIPE COMPLETELY DRY. Note: this product does not air dry. Extra buffing with a dry cloth INCREASES bonding, repellency & longevity. Apply every 3-5 weeks for maximum UV protection. Great for use on a variety of surfaces such as: vinyl, leather, plastics, synthetic & natural rubber, eisenglass, PVC, teak, gel coat & fiberglass. Ideal for: Hypalon inflatable boats, wet/dry suits, tires, side-out seals, RV EDPM rubber roofing (for your safety, never walk on a wet roof), helmets, visors, and goggles. Not for use on unfinished leathers (such as suede), fabrics (canvas) or floorings

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I know the stripes are a very big concern. The 303 Aerospace protect looks like a good product. I checked its availability, and found a lot of places sell the product locally. In case others might be interested I copied the below information for others to read about the product.

 

Originally engineered for aerospace and aviation applications, 303® Aerospace Protectant™ has found its way into millions of homes for day-to-day use on vehicles, sports equipment and more. Unlike many protectants that leave greasy residues, Aerospace dries to a clear matte finish without a trace of oil. And because it’s water-based, this protectant is safe to use on all products, from your vehicle’s paint job and leather seats to internal engine parts.

There’s a lot of power packed into this one product. A premium surface treatment, Aerospace not only protects against fading, discoloration and cracking from harmful UV rays, but repels dust and stains, too. Simply spray on and wipe dry for a beautiful, matte finish that protects your vehicle from road grime and favorite belongings from dust and soiling. Best of all, each application will last for months.

No other protectant beautifies as intensely or preserves as powerfully. Keep UV-sensitive materials looking new, year after year.

Usage Directions:

Use only on clean surfaces. For best results use 303® Multi-Surface Cleaner™. Place a drop cloth under the cleaner to be treated to catch any overspray. Out of direct sun, spray surface with 303® Aerospace Protectant™ and WIPE COMPLETELY DRY. If streaking occurs, too much product has been used. Use a wet towel to remove excess, IMMEDIATELY WIPE COMPLETELY DRY. Note: this product does not air dry. Extra buffing with a dry cloth INCREASES bonding, repellency & longevity. Apply every 3-5 weeks for maximum UV protection. Great for use on a variety of surfaces such as: vinyl, leather, plastics, synthetic & natural rubber, eisenglass, PVC, teak, gel coat & fiberglass. Ideal for: Hypalon inflatable boats, wet/dry suits, tires, side-out seals, RV EDPM rubber roofing (for your safety, never walk on a wet roof), helmets, visors, and goggles. Not for use on unfinished leathers (such as suede), fabrics (canvas) or floorings

The cleaner & protectant is great stuff for boat upholstery. Really helps make it last.

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