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Need Opions On Performance Mods For My 14 Gt 500 Gears Or Stage 4 Pkg


Geneo4116

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Okay I really like having a stock car, but ????? Was thinking about vmp stage 4 pkg, which is a tune intake throttle body and pulley,BUT this will destroy my WARRANTTY which I don't like at all, THEN i thought I will do a gear swap to 373s , I don't care if it throws the speedometer off I would just leave that alone,DO U THINK, this will make car perform a lot better thru 1/4 mile. I think I would feel a lot better with gear swap for my WARRANTTY sake, what say u guys, don't track my car at all,mainly street race once in a while,all responses welcome.THANK U

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How deep are your pockets? How much do you drive the car and how do you use it? I actually think the 3.55's in my '11 made for a better driver that the 3.31's stock in my 2014. The 3.73's would make it even easier. I find myself having to slip the clutch more in my '14 than in the '11. Gears you will feel all the time in every gear. Other mods may be more mid/top end to gain that same feeling.

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With these cars the number one fix for all drivers no matter of what your goals are is tires. Anything high performance oriented in the market will be an improvement over what Ford fits from the factory.

True, when I put the Michelin Pilots on my '14 the grip was so much better I thought I had lost 100 hp due to lack of wheel spin. Believe me, it can still be induced, just not as easily or as haphazardly. With the original Goodyear F1's I always felt on the ragged edge of losing it. Now I have more confidence in driving the car in all conditions to include in the wet.

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Go for the stage 4.

I did VMP's set up on my 07 and couldn't be happier.

 

Also recently did a tune on my Raptor ( 6.2 motor ) It was like waking a sleeping beast.

Ford sends these SVT vehicles out so de-tuned it is ridiculous.

 

And I agree with the others, get some better tires that will suit your driving patterns.

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Here's the thing, if you go with a stickier tire such as a drag radial in a wider width, you're going to increase your tire height, subsequently making your rear gear ratio even taller and causing more stress on the stock clutch, particularly when taking off from 1st. For my purpose, I'd rather install a 3.73 rear gear with a wider and slightly taller drag radial tire, and allow the speedometer to be off slightly. The taller tire will bring the rear ratio back down to about a 3.40-3.50 depending on the tire height. Your speedo will be fast by a few mph, but it would be up to you if you wanted to mate an SCT tuner to the car to correct this.

If you're worried about a warranty, then you don't want to tune the car as it is the central point which controls all of the air, fuel, and spark, and will be a red flag if you ever take your car in for warranty work. Ford reps have to report their findings to Ford, and obtain approval for replacing a part. If the mechanic reports that the car had the ECU altered, then it's a crap shoot whether or not they would honor the warranty. My opinion is, that this is an awfully expensive motor to replace in the event of a major failure, which is why mine is staying at or near stock for a few more years.

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Have you seen any GT500 engine failures? None that I am aware of, only under extreme abuse. Evolution Performance ran 8's with their stock bottom end, about 1200HP. Good gas and tune keeps the longevity of these bulletproof engines. He's looking into a VMP tune which is highly reputable.

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Have you seen any GT500 engine failures? None that I am aware of, only under extreme abuse. Evolution Performance ran 8's with their stock bottom end, about 1200HP. Good gas and tune keeps the longevity of these bulletproof engines. He's looking into a VMP tune which is highly reputable.

Thats not very educated advice. Since you own an '07, what is it that you know abou the '13/14 model year cars? Do you believe the '13/14 MY car would survive on a stock bottom end at 1200 horsepower? I know the answer, but am not going to post it until I hear your rebuttal.

Secondly, I wouldn't post advice about warranty work if I haven't heard of issues with the 13/14 MY year cars. Don't believe me, go do some searching around on svtperformance and you'll find a thing or two about warranty work folks are having. And keep in mind, warranty work not only covers the motor, but also the driverain, which the 13/14 MY cars are notorious for dropping clutches. Given the OP made it clear he is concerned about keeping his warranty in place ( and doesn't even want to tune to recalibrate a rear gear change), I addressed his concerns with legimiate advice stating a tune WILL void his warranty. Don't believe it? Take a tuned car into a dealer to attempt a warranty fix on anything motor or drivetrain related, and watch the warranty walk out the door. Dealers don't void warranties, it's Ford, and dealers obtain permission from Ford on any repairs/replacements with these cars.

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I have the VMP stage 3 on my 2013 and wow what a difference and doubtful I will do gears with the new power, to the tune of near 800hp / 690rwhp. Yes tires after these are gone but for now I will spin them off. I'm going with Toyo R888/295 on the rear when these are done not Michelin just my preference and have them on my Viper and they are nice, and no I'm not driving it in the rain as R888 are not for the rain. You really don't need the JLT CAI the stage 4 has I just used the FRPP silencer delete part and does about the same. I did also install the cat delete Lethal H-Pipe and Magnaflows (really sounds like a beast now) and different than I thought about gears I'm not putting in 373 like my 2010 has because with the pull it has now 1,2,3 gears and I'm at 135 out of the 1/4. All the stage 3 can be removed and returned to stock in minimal time like when it was installed if need be. Most dealers would not even know it is there, yes the exhaust but not the stage 3 or 4. I'm still on the fence about a MGW shifter because the one in my 2010 is far better than this stock shifter, however the 2013 stock shifter is better than the 2010 was, probably because they fixed the transmission bugs the 2010 had. My 2010 trans was rebuilt by Ford with the upgdared parts for free. I have a post in here about that. My 2010 is just about the same as this 2013 as far as power but I had many upgrades to make it that way. Bottom line before you open up the rear end I would do the bolt on simple stage 3 and you will be very surprised. You could even just do the tune and pully and will be very surprised and I recommend VMP for it. That's my 2c.

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If you guys (OP and SVTracer) are so worried about breaking your stock clutches racing and having Ford fix it for free then maybe you should trade in the GT500's and get a Mustang GT.

 

If you wanna play you gotta pay. I havent heard of anyone breaking their engine yet, that was your original point of keeping the warranty. My point: VMP is a reputable company and the OP won't have to worry about the tune wrecking his engine. If the clutch goes, and the OP said he street races occasionally, (and will need the Stage 4 to compete), he should buy a better clutch anyways.

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If you guys (OP and SVTracer) are so worried about breaking your stock clutches racing and having Ford fix it for free then maybe you should trade in the GT500's and get a Mustang GT.

 

If you wanna play you gotta pay. I havent heard of anyone breaking their engine yet, that was your original point of keeping the warranty. My point: VMP is a reputable company and the OP won't have to worry about the tune wrecking his engine. If the clutch goes, and the OP said he street races occasionally, (and will need the Stage 4 to compete), he should buy a better clutch anyways.

What are you talking about? Who said anything about racing and destoying a stock clutch? I'm being as polite as possible in saying that you're not that familiar with the MY '13-14 cars, so I'm not certain why you continue to give advice on them? And that's not taking anything away from VMP, because I'm sure they're a good tuner. You want us to trade in our $60K+ GT500's on a GT? How about this? Why don't you post over on the older Shelby forums where you probably have more knowledge? See how silly that sounds?

Clutch problems:

 

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?921936-Had-Clutch-Failure-in-your-13-Check-in-here&highlight=clutch

 

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?972411-Another-13-Clutch-Failure&highlight=clutch

 

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?963891-Hearing-quot-Chirping-quot-sound-from-clutch&highlight=clutch

 

I will say that owners have went through clutches in these cars without racing them, and there are plenty of documented posts on svtperformance, which seems to get more traffic than this site. And again, if you want to be accurate with your statements, do some digging around on the 13/14 forums on svtperformance and you will find a few warranty problems people have had. Sure there may not be many "posts" but do you believe all Shelby owners post on internet forums? How about this thread, which sounds like a nightmare, which could happen to anyone:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1021324-Potential-diagnosed-rod-knock!

 

Or what about this thread where a guy had his car modified and tuned professionally?

 

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?996100-Uhh-oh-%28%28-What-happened

 

My point is, the 13/14 GT500 has a $24K motor in it, and quoting the OP, he's obviously concerned about his warranty, to which you are suggesting he get a tune, which will void his factory warranty on the power train and drive train.

 

BUT this will destroy my WARRANTTY which I don't like at all

and

 

 

I think I would feel a lot better with gear swap for my WARRANTTY sake,

 

Sounds like the proof is in the pudding. But you're right, if you want to play you have to pay, and it doesn't sound like the OP wants to pay for premature failure caused by modifications done to his car.

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Imo you are worrying too much. The links you listed are but a handful of cars with clutch failures and one guy with an engine tick at 1500 rpms who changed the oil himself with "Ford" oil and doesn't mention the viscosity. The ticking has been reported many times by people who took their cars to dealers that filled it with the wrong oil, he may have made the same mistake. So you think ford will automatically replace his engine? And another guy making over 700rwhp owner modified with an engine issue? So you want him to play it safe, not drive and enjoy the car because something might break? If the clutch is going to go it will if he tunes it or not and ford may not replace it because it is a wear item and subject to driver use and possible abuse. My simple point was that IMO he should enjoy his car to the fullest and put worry to rest as VMP is a reputable company and have not heard of any issues with their tunes causing any problems with cars or warranties. If the OP is worried about the warranty or breaking something, then just get the gears. IMO I believe this engine is very bulletproof and the very few problems I have seen in my 8 years on forums are owner-generated, not ford defects. Clutches are wearable item that understandably can fail what we think "prematurely" because of the very high performance high torque nature of the car and we compare it to grandma's civic. That's all. Just because a few people complain shouldn't stop someone else from enjoying their car to the fullest, which is what I was encouraging the OP to do.

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  • 4 weeks later...

guys,

I always liked STEEDA for mods, but I am so upset and unhappy with a power pack purchased from STEEDA, as the cold air intake does not fit properly in the GT 500.

Incredible how can STEEDA sell such a bad and ugly manufactured CAI, IT NEEDS TO BE adjusted after every ride you take the car, as it moves and leaves a gap, allowing air from all over diverting out of where it is supposed to go.

 

Anyway, stay away from STEEDA CAI FOR YOUR GT500.

Lots of other better looking and more efficiente CAI out there.

Cheers

Braztang

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the last thing your car needs is MORE power if you are stock with everything else. i vote gears. 3:31 combined with the revised (taller) 6-speed gearing is too much for daily driving. get 3:73's if you want to street race but still daily drive or 3:55 if you just want a modest increase and want to maintain gas mileage and a similar driving experience to what you have now, but with slightly more usable power band in each gear.

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