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Oil Filter Fr Vs Mc For Stock Sgt.?


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I have read some things on the two filters , my ford racing parts person (ford dealer) said it is over kill for a stock SGT. , only for engines with high volume/psi oil pumps . he said to use the motorcraft one ?

what about K&N oil filters??

 

Thanks

 

GOD Bless

 

Jim &Judy

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Stick with a motorcraft or ford racing filter. They have a silicone check valve in them that is very important for our engines. If you use an aftermarket filter, like fram etc.., they can allow oil to drain back out of the upper oil passages in the heads and eventually over time cause loss of lube for the timing chain tensioners, vvt solenoids and phasers, and the cam journals. If that happens, you're looking at replacing the heads, cams and all the timing parts.

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Thanks.

 

I use the K&N filter & royal purple oil 5w20, I notice that when I start a cold engine I get a tick noise for 30sec. or so then it goes away , I am thinking of using motorcraft filter & oil???

 

Thanks again!

 

GOD Bless

 

Jim & Judy

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I only use the Ford Racing Oil Filters on all my SGT's. I order a case at a time....these are really good oil filters.

 

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=7703

 

  • Synthetic-Polymer/Cellulose-Fiber blend media
  • Heavy gage base and canister for higher burst strength and impulse fatigue resistance
  • High quality silicone anti-drain back valve
  • Non-stick sealing gasket for ease of installation and removal
  • Long life with standard and synthetic motor oils
  • Up to 50% more filtering capacity than standard filters
  • Improved filtering efficiency
  • This technology is only available through Ford Racing Performance Parts.
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Been using the standard Motorcraft filter with no issues. However, just bought the FRPP filters as I got a great deal. The FRPP filter was part of the performance enhancement for the GT-H & later the SGT. But I am sure HERTZ folks just used standard filters.

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When was the last time anyone had a known engine issue / failure due to an oil filter? I haven't, in 44 years of driving, and don't know of anyone who has. It really doesn't matter which one you use IMO. There all good enough. Having said that, I use the Ford Racing filter just because it looks good!

 

:whistling:

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I used to work at a ford dealer a few years ago, we probably saw an upper end noise or timing rattle from an aftermarket filter about 2-3 times per week. Keep in mind, that was including all the models with the 4.6 and 5.4. We would recommend an oil change with motorcraft filter and would never see them back with the same noise. As far as the oil goes, as long as it's 5w-20 that's the main thing, i won't get into any opinions about what is the best oil to use. The Ford racing filter is a good filter, but if you aren't running the car very hard or have high oil pressure the motorcraft is good too, i usually pick mine up at walmart for about $3-4.

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changed filter to Motorcraft FL820s & added oil to filter 5W20 Royal Purple ,ran,stopped sat for three days , ran-- some ticking sound ,only not right away about 20 seconds after startup , then for about 30 seconds of ticking then stopped ? I am going to wait for maybe a dosen or so start up .to see if the tick goes away?

 

Thanks

 

GOD Bless

 

Jim & Judy

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If it doesn't go away you may need some timing chain tensioners and/or the VCT phasers. I had a noise in my car early on while it was under warranty and got the phasers replaced, no noise ever since. It might be worth noting, there were a lot of 3-valve 5.4's that had lash adjuster issues where they would collapse and cause a loud tick. I hope none of these is the case for you. Keep us posted.

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Stick with a motorcraft or ford racing filter. They have a silicone check valve in them that is very important for our engines. If you use an aftermarket filter, like fram etc.., they can allow oil to drain back out of the upper oil passages in the heads and eventually over time cause loss of lube for the timing chain tensioners, vvt solenoids and phasers, and the cam journals. If that happens, you're looking at replacing the heads, cams and all the timing parts.

 

I may be wrong but I do not believe the Motorcraft filter, with silicone drain back valve, prevents oil from draining from the heads, cams, tensioners, phasers, etc.

 

Been using the standard Motorcraft filter with no issues. However, just bought the FRPP filters as I got a great deal. The FRPP filter was part of the performance enhancement for the GT-H & later the SGT. But I am sure HERTZ folks just used standard filters.

I don't believe the FRPP filter was part of the performance enhancement for the SGT. I have a 2007 SGT and it came with the standard FL 820S filter from the factory. Shelby did not change the filter. Remember, sadly, that the SGT was just a stock 4.6 Mustang GT engine with a CAI and a chip/tune. SAI did not do anything else to the engine.

 

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I may be wrong but I do not believe the Motorcraft filter, with silicone drain back valve, prevents oil from draining from the heads, cams, tensioners, phasers, etc.

 

Been using the standard Motorcraft filter with no issues. However, just bought the FRPP filters as I got a great deal. The FRPP filter was part of the performance enhancement for the GT-H & later the SGT. But I am sure HERTZ folks just used standard filters.

I don't believe the FRPP filter was part of the performance enhancement for the SGT. I have a 2007 SGT and it came with the standard FL 820S filter from the factory. Shelby did not change the filter. Remember, sadly, that the SGT was just a stock 4.6 Mustang GT engine with a CAI and a chip/tune. SAI did not do anything else to the engine.

 

The FRPP high performance oil filter is part of the power upgrade package that included the CAI & calibration, GT mufflers etc however I do believe you are correct because SAI did no fluid changes during their HERTZ and SGT builds that I am aware of.

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Yes, the FRPP filter is part of the package, and I believe the hand held programmer is also part of the package which we did not receive. SAI only gave us the CAI and the tune and did not change the standard filter from the factory or the oil. What is interesting is that SAI recommended 5W-30 oil for the 2007 SGT, but did not change the factory 5W-20 oil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

after starting the SGT 3 different times to take it for a drive the" tick " sound has become less noticable , on start up , but after 30sec. the idle comes down & I hear a "tick" more in the valley under the intake , then it goes away in 1 minute ..

 

GOD Bless

Jim & Judy

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  • 2 months later...

Mobil 1 and FR filter.

+1 on that - I use 10-30 wt.

 

I run Amsoil Signiture Series and their EA filter.

Amsoil filters are made by Wix and they just brought out their XP series filters which are the same but under their own label. If you are going to run synthetic oil and go longer between oil changes then you need a filter which has an element that does the job for the longer period of time. The biggest difference is in the element material type along with having a silicone drain back.

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I use the ford racing filters and royal purple 5-20w and have had no problems Due to the low miles driven each year (4000 or less per car) I just change the oil every spring. It helps to have two Shelbys to drive to keep the miles down. Walmart carries the royal purple oil for a better price than a auto parts store. Check out ebay for a case of the filters and also the oil. Harley

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  • 4 weeks later...

Here is my twist on things oil related;

 

The BEST oil, is CLEAN oil...So, I change oil and filter every 2000-2500 miles. Religiously. Not negotiable...Dont go there...STOP!

 

Thus, no question means no doubt. And, yes, it is this simple. Of course, "often" means "often", and I cannot dispute the cost involved with such a schedule. I use Motorcraft 5W20 (usually bulk stuff at dealerships and Jiffy Lube) and Motorcraft, or, FRPP filters.

 

Never a problem getting a change. Never a problem while away from home. Easy stuff to hunt down, any of the popular parts stores carry either Motorcraft or FRPP filters, or both, and everyone I mean everyone has 5W20 drain on tap. LuLu drinks 9 quarts for a full tummy and even when I had to buy quart bottles, it was still cheap at 1.99 ea. Once, OTR, I had to change, and all options failed. Brought my own 9qt. brew to a Chevy dealer, and got whut I wanted. Yes, it is this simple, and I hope at least one of y'all is learning something right now.

 

I have replaced 3 engines in LuLu (for other reasons) and she makes a lot of power today. 5W20 is the best weight for that power. Lucy OTOH, has the OEM/stock 4.6L-3V engine as delivered by SAI. 5W20 is best for her too. Why? Well, Ford has spent a lot of money developing the 3V, and over many years too. No experiment, history dates back to the Triton truck, who am I to question/argue with all that? Same oil, same filters, same availability, for both cars. Follow this program, and you have the best protection you can buy, as inexpensively as it can be had.

 

Can't do this with "exotic" options, or, increased weights. Both are way to expensive to maintain my program, and wasteful as well. But, you will NEVER suffer any set-back or complication due to lack of proper/correct lubrication. I have been wrenching cars since 1965, and I have never heard of a broken engine due to loss of a good filter and clean oil. Sorry, this is the truth.

 

This is my program, and sometimes the drain is so clean, I wish I could sell it to others not so engine conscious as I am. What a spoof that would be, eh? "Fresh oil, drained from Dealership Demos". LMAO!

 

Carry on Gents, y'all be safe.

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