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2007 Gt500 Upgrade To 2013 Power - Easiest Route?


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No problem, happy to help.

Make sure you post your results, I would be interested to hear how it works out for you.

Some tracks are willing to spray the launch area on request, so you might be able to get an even better hookup.

 

One other thing I like to do is check the wheel nuts with a good torque wrench.

I check them when I first get out to the strip, after about 6 or so runs, and again at the end when I am leaving.

I have noticed that they can move around a bit, so I like to make sure they are at 100 lbs ft as spec'd by the manual.

I consider it cheap insurance to keep an eye on them.

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No problem, happy to help.

Make sure you post your results, I would be interested to hear how it works out for you.

Some tracks are willing to spray the launch area on request, so you might be able to get an even better hookup.

 

One other thing I like to do is check the wheel nuts with a good torque wrench.

I check them when I first get out to the strip, after about 6 or so runs, and again at the end when I am leaving.

I have noticed that they can move around a bit, so I like to make sure they are at 100 lbs ft as spec'd by the manual.

I consider it cheap insurance to keep an eye on them.

Good point. A co-worker has a V8 turbocharged Audi S8. We plan to run against each other. I think I can take him What do you think?

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No idea on the power to weight ratio for the Audi, but guessing that if it is stock, then it will not be near a low 11 sec time.

With the turbo I would think he will have an easier time launching, as most turbos have no where near the early/fast torque of a supercharged car.

If he has an automatic or paddle shifter, that will probably be to his advantage too.

You will have plenty of power, but you will have to work at it to get a decent launch and not overpower the drag radials.

Don't dump the clutch or jump on the gas, slow down the clutch release a bit and do a controlled squeeze down on the gas for the 1st gear.

If you haven't upgraded your oem trans fluid yet, drain it and use Royal Purple Synchromax.

The trans takes something like 3.65 quarts, check the manual and make sure that you do not overfill.

I found it makes a very noticable difference in ease of shifting.

To easily fill the trans, pick up a small hand oil pump, the type that screws on top of standard thread oil bottles.

Most auto and marine suppliers carry them, and they are less than $10.

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No idea on the power to weight ratio for the Audi, but guessing that if it is stock, then it will not be near a low 11 sec time.

With the turbo I would think he will have an easier time launching, as most turbos have no where near the early/fast torque of a supercharged car.

If he has an automatic or paddle shifter, that will probably be to his advantage too.

You will have plenty of power, but you will have to work at it to get a decent launch and not overpower the drag radials.

Don't dump the clutch or jump on the gas, slow down the clutch release a bit and do a controlled squeeze down on the gas for the 1st gear.

If you haven't upgraded your oem trans fluid yet, drain it and use Royal Purple Synchromax.

The trans takes something like 3.65 quarts, check the manual and make sure that you do not overfill.

I found it makes a very noticable difference in ease of shifting.

To easily fill the trans, pick up a small hand oil pump, the type that screws on top of standard thread oil bottles.

Most auto and marine suppliers carry them, and they are less than $10.

Do you have a stock shifter. My car has 22,000 miles and my clutch seems to be fine, no TSB, and it shifts pretty good with the stock shifter. I will change the oil in the tranny. The Audi S8 is a big car but it is all wheel drive and I think it has an 8 speed automatic it is a pretty mean machine and because of the all wheel drive I think I will have to play catch up. It has 500+HP but it weighs a bunch.

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No idea on the power to weight ratio for the Audi, but guessing that if it is stock, then it will not be near a low 11 sec time.

With the turbo I would think he will have an easier time launching, as most turbos have no where near the early/fast torque of a supercharged car.

If he has an automatic or paddle shifter, that will probably be to his advantage too.

You will have plenty of power, but you will have to work at it to get a decent launch and not overpower the drag radials.

Don't dump the clutch or jump on the gas, slow down the clutch release a bit and do a controlled squeeze down on the gas for the 1st gear.

If you haven't upgraded your oem trans fluid yet, drain it and use Royal Purple Synchromax.

The trans takes something like 3.65 quarts, check the manual and make sure that you do not overfill.

I found it makes a very noticable difference in ease of shifting.

To easily fill the trans, pick up a small hand oil pump, the type that screws on top of standard thread oil bottles.

Most auto and marine suppliers carry them, and they are less than $10.

Here are the stats from Motor Trend. "See, this new Audi S8 hits 60 mph in 3.5 seconds and runs the quarter mile in 11.8 seconds at 118.3 mph. Your Camaro ZL1 doesn't have a chance, and your Shelby GT500 better hook up or it's done, too."

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OK I've seen a used (5,000 mile) 2013 TVS for sale at a good price. Comes with associated original 2013 GT500 parts: Throttle body, air filter assembly, 2 pulleys: stock and is currently fitted with a 2.4" pulley.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2013-2014-SHELBY-GT500-MUSTANG-5-8-TVS-SUPERCHARGER-BLOWER-THROTTLE-BODY-MORE-/261535691771?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce4bdf3fb

 

So am I right in thinking all I would need is: a new tune from Brenspeed (who supplied my original tune).

I already have 1 colder range plugs (TR6) which I installed when I added the smaller pulley.

 

I also have a JLT 123mm intake so I guess I could use that or go with the original 2013 GT500 filter assembly?

 

I better start thinking about a clutch too I think.....!

 

Cheers, Malc

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Looks like a decent deal, see that it has sold, did you get it?

The 2.4" pulley will make some good boost too.

You should be able to go with either CAI, the 2013 one would work.

I did some checking and the Ford Racing 113mm CAI is good up to at least 650+ rwhp.

The JLT 123mm will be good for substantially more than that.

You will need to decide which you are going to use, before getting a custom tune built.

As for tunes, the 2 top names to give serious consideration are John Lund and Justin Starkey at VMP.

Its up to you, but I would only consider tunes from either of those guys for maximum & safe HP.

I use VMP tunes myself and can state that they deliver some serious hp and torque, with excellent driveability and part throttle response.

Even a stock 5.4 motor is worth a lot of coin, well worth paying for a good tune for it by one of the best.

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11.8 is very respectable for a street car, but I have seen street supercharged 4.6L 04 Mustangs with a stick cut those times on drag radials.

If you are getting 124mph or better strip speeds, with a good hookup the car should be able to dip into the high tens.

That mph and car weight indicates potential times as low as in the 10.80s, but going that quick may require suspension work and/or possibly slicks.

I've already done numerous passes in the 11.30s with soft launches, oem 3.31 gears and full stock exhaust, so I know there is a lot of potential in the GT500s.

The hardest part is working on getting down or below that without getting tossed for going faster than 11.50 without a roll bar :)

If you enjoy running at the strip, do yourself a favour and get a Raptor Led Shift Light for just over $100.

That way you can keep your eyes on the road ahead where they belong, and pull the gears when the light flashes in your face.

I have mine set to a conservative 5800 rpm and it works well for me, and my rev limiter is still set to the stock 6200 rpm setting.

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Btw, for the shifter I just put in the Ford Racing M-7210-B shifter a few months ago.

It looks virtually the same as the oem GT500 one, but has a shorter throw and poly bushings instead of rubber.

It is the same shifter that they put into the Shelby KRs.

I also added the Ford Racing shift handle and knob, which eliminates the rest of the mushy rubber bushings.

I find it much tighter than before and has a very positive feel to it, everyone who has tried it loves the feel of it.

The Ford Racing shifter ball offers a much better grip than the oem one too, and you are much less likely to have your hand slip off of it.

I highly recommend both.

 

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-short-shifter-0709gt500.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-shiftknob-0709-black.html

Ford Racing Knob.jpg

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Btw, for the shifter I just put in the Ford Racing M-7210-B shifter a few months ago.

It looks virtually the same as the oem GT500 one, but has a shorter throw and poly bushings instead of rubber.

It is the same shifter that they put into the Shelby KRs.

I also added the Ford Racing shift handle and knob, which eliminates the rest of the mushy rubber bushings.

I find it much tighter than before and has a very positive feel to it, everyone who has tried it loves the feel of it.

The Ford Racing shifter ball offers a much better grip than the oem one too, and you are much less likely to have your hand slip off of it.

I highly recommend both.

 

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-short-shifter-0709gt500.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-shiftknob-0709-black.html

Was it a pain to install? I don't have a lift. What do you think of the Barton shifter. I don't remember if it comes with the handle.

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11.8 is very respectable for a street car, but I have seen street supercharged 4.6L 04 Mustangs with a stick cut those times on drag radials.

If you are getting 124mph or better strip speeds, with a good hookup the car should be able to dip into the high tens.

That mph and car weight indicates potential times as low as in the 10.80s, but going that quick may require suspension work and/or possibly slicks.

I've already done numerous passes in the 11.30s with soft launches, oem 3.31 gears and full stock exhaust, so I know there is a lot of potential in the GT500s.

The hardest part is working on getting down or below that without getting tossed for going faster than 11.50 without a roll bar :)

If you enjoy running at the strip, do yourself a favour and get a Raptor Led Shift Light for just over $100.

That way you can keep your eyes on the road ahead where they belong, and pull the gears when the light flashes in your face.

I have mine set to a conservative 5800 rpm and it works well for me, and my rev limiter is still set to the stock 6200 rpm setting.

I'm thinking of installing SOS pillar with aeroforce gauge and autometer shift light.

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I did mine in the garage with ramps and jack stands, but it definitely would be easier on a hoist.

I used home made ramps on the front that was stacked 6 - 2x12s high, and also raised the back end up about 6 inches or so to give me enough working room.

Check the install instructions on the American Muscle site for the procedure, they are pretty good.

You do have to remove the trans crossmember and lower the trans enough to be able to get your hands up there between the trans and the tunnel.

You also have to loosen the exhaust mid pipe to allow for the lowering, but I did not have to disconnect my driveshaft because of it being 1 piece and having a good slide joint.

The shifter assembly I removed through the top inside the car, and did the reverse to install the new one.

The hardest part is of the whole deal was getting the car high enough to be able to work under it.

 

Not sure about the Barton shifter, but read that it and the MGW shifter have good reviews as well.

The Ford Racing one is a nice and solid unit, and does not require any adjustments.

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Looks like a decent deal, see that it has sold, did you get it?

The 2.4" pulley will make some good boost too.

You should be able to go with either CAI, the 2013 one would work.

I did some checking and the Ford Racing 113mm CAI is good up to at least 650+ rwhp.

The JLT 123mm will be good for substantially more than that.

You will need to decide which you are going to use, before getting a custom tune built.

As for tunes, the 2 top names to give serious consideration are John Lund and Justin Starkey at VMP.

Its up to you, but I would only consider tunes from either of those guys for maximum & safe HP.

I use VMP tunes myself and can state that they deliver some serious hp and torque, with excellent driveability and part throttle response.

Even a stock 5.4 motor is worth a lot of coin, well worth paying for a good tune for it by one of the best.

No, looks like someone else got it. I wanted to post here and make sure there wasn't anything fundamental missing from that kit for sale. thanks for clearing up the CAI question though. Looks like I would be better (more power) using my JLT 123mm.

 

The same names keep coming up for a tune: John Lund and Justin at VMP. I am more than happy with Brenspeed's service though I do realise they supplied a tune specific to a kit they sold me.

 

I am sure another take-off 2013 blower will come up. I can't believe people buy the monster 2013/14 and as soon as they get home, take the stock blower off to replace it with something more powerful...

 

TBH if I could afford a 2013 I'd drive it stock for a while and be proud to have one of the most insane cars to ever be made. 662hp in 2014. I though musclecars were supposed to have died in 1974 (last being the SD455 Trans Am....) ha ha to that.

 

Malc

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I did mine in the garage with ramps and jack stands, but it definitely would be easier on a hoist.

I used home made ramps on the front that was stacked 6 - 2x12s high, and also raised the back end up about 6 inches or so to give me enough working room.

Check the install instructions on the American Muscle site for the procedure, they are pretty good.

You do have to remove the trans crossmember and lower the trans enough to be able to get your hands up there between the trans and the tunnel.

You also have to loosen the exhaust mid pipe to allow for the lowering, but I did not have to disconnect my driveshaft because of it being 1 piece and having a good slide joint.

The shifter assembly I removed through the top inside the car, and did the reverse to install the new one.

The hardest part is of the whole deal was getting the car high enough to be able to work under it.

 

Not sure about the Barton shifter, but read that it and the MGW shifter have good reviews as well.

The Ford Racing one is a nice and solid unit, and does not require any adjustments.

 

Thanks. Can the original shifter handle be mounted to the KR shifter and eliminate the slop?

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If you use the original shifter handle as is, it will still be kind of mushy.

The problem is that it uses soft rubber for isolation, and that allows for a fair amount of give.

If you figure out a way to remove the rubber pieces and then bolt the arm up solid to the shifter, then that should do the trick.

Shorter bolts and either solid bushings or washers that fill the holes in the shifter base might do it.

If you are willing to mod the oem arm, you could heat it up with an oxy/acetylene torch and straighten it out some, and you could even cut some off of it to lower the arm/knob height.

I tried them all and found that a straighter shifter arm works out the best for me.

In the photo, the original shifter arm assembly is the one on the far right.

The arm in the center is a Hurst arm which offers a solid mount much like the ford racing arm, but only costs around $50 on ebay if you can find it.

The Hurst arm also has the same threads as oem, and the stock shifter knob will fit directly on it.

The one on the far left is the Shelby arm, which uses a similar design to oem, but uses stiffer poly bushings.

The Shelby arm looks nice, but I don't care for the offset myself, and it also has a different ball/knob thread.

I prefer a ball instead of the knob, as I have had my hand slip off of the knob a few times on hot days at the strip.

 

Shifter Arm Comparison2.jpg

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Don't be afraid to go after a good used VMP Gen 1 too, if one pops up and the price is right.

A VMP Gen I will make as much or more power than an oem 2013 takeoff blower.

I'm currently using a port matched FRPP TVS, and I consider it to be at least a step below the Gen I.

That being said, the FRPP TVS makes enough torque and horsepower to push the car into the 10s, with a 113mm CAI.

The first 60 feet is the hard part though, working on that now :)

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If you use the original shifter handle as is, it will still be kind of mushy.

The problem is that it uses soft rubber for isolation, and that allows for a fair amount of give.

If you figure out a way to remove the rubber pieces and then bolt the arm up solid to the shifter, then that should do the trick.

Shorter bolts and either solid bushings or washers that fill the holes in the shifter base might do it.

If you are willing to mod the oem arm, you could heat it up with an oxy/acetylene torch and straighten it out some, and you could even cut some off of it to lower the arm/knob height.

I tried them all and found that a straighter shifter arm works out the best for me.

In the photo, the original shifter arm assembly is the one on the far right.

The arm in the center is a Hurst arm which offers a solid mount much like the ford racing arm, but only costs around $50 on ebay if you can find it.

The Hurst arm also has the same threads as oem, and the stock shifter knob will fit directly on it.

The one on the far left is the Shelby arm, which uses a similar design to oem, but uses stiffer poly bushings.

The Shelby arm looks nice, but I don't care for the offset myself, and it also has a different ball/knob thread.

I prefer a ball instead of the knob, as I have had my hand slip off of the knob a few times on hot days at the strip.

 

I see the difference. Any major increase in NVH with a solid mounted shifter arm. Thanks for all your input. Very much appreciated.

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I find it creates minimal increase in vibration or noise, but offers a lot better feel to the shifter.

Might just be one of those things you have to try for yourself to judge.

I have also installed LCAs and UCA with poly bushings, and had the same type of result.

The benefits far exceed any drawbacks, and would not hesitate to do the same again.

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I find it creates minimal increase in vibration or noise, but offers a lot better feel to the shifter.

Might just be one of those things you have to try for yourself to judge.

I have also installed LCAs and UCA with poly bushings, and had the same type of result.

The benefits far exceed any drawbacks, and would not hesitate to do the same again.

Sounds good. All my components in the rear have poly bushings and I really didn't notice any noise or vibration differences. I even replaced the bushing on top of the rear end. I will try the shifter.

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  • 1 month later...

I find it creates minimal increase in vibration or noise, but offers a lot better feel to the shifter.

Might just be one of those things you have to try for yourself to judge.

I have also installed LCAs and UCA with poly bushings, and had the same type of result.

The benefits far exceed any drawbacks, and would not hesitate to do the same again.

Ok I had a few runs a couple of weeks ago. My best was 12.1. I couldn't get a decent burn out and spun in first gear. I tried to slow down my clutch release but my reaction time was .8. On the way home my clutch was slipping. So I ordered a McLeod RXT, a one piece driving shaft from VMP, a KR shifter like you suggested, a raptor shift light and I installed a Granatelli tire fryer. The clutch, shifter and driving shaft are getting installed Friday. I prefer to do my own work but the clutch is too much for me as I have a bad shoulder and doing it on my back just wouldn't happen. I did everything else. I must say that I wasn't impressed with the tire fryer. The pipe thread fittings and rigid hoses does't give you much adjustability. It turned out great but it took me 3 hours to put it on. I used Harley Dealer idea and installed a 3 way switch where I could turn the horn button as my tire fryer switch. Worked great. Now once the clutch is installed I need 1200 cycle under normal driving condition. That will take a couple of weeks. I hope to get back to the track and get a 11.5 so I can blow the doors off that obnoxious camaro that is loud as a piece of crap and ran 11.8. My trap speed was 122MPH so if I can drive I should get my wish. I'll keep you posted and thanks for all your input.

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