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Lfp Heat Exchanger


UKGT500

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Excuse me if this has been discussed before but I couldn't find it in the search facility. I have seen an LFP heat exchanger for sale for about half the price of an AFCO or VMP.

 

Couldn't find much info on this though some Cobra guys rate the one for their car.

 

My mind tells me you get what you pay for and there's a reason LFP is $400 and AFCO is $800.

 

I am running the stock Eaton with 2.6" pulley and Brenspeed tune with 123mm JLT intake.

 

I am in the UK and shipping and duty work out pretty expensive hence so these parts will probably end up costing me double what you pay in the US.

 

Also bear in mind I don't drive that hard and our summers aren't especially hot so I wonder if I could get by with the LFP if in itself it offers much better cooling than stock?

 

Malc

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It makes a difference in regards to what climate you live in as well, not sure what it is like where you live.

Many of the people in the southern US have fairly high everyday temps to deal with.

Where I live, 70F temperatures are mild, 80F is considered hot and 90F and up are extreme.

Heat soak is less of an issue for me, even with numerous back to back passes at the local track.

I do run a FRPP TVS though, so that probably helps to cut heat generation with increased blower rpms / smaller pulley.

One thing I don't like about most HE upgrades, is the idea of adding any extra weight to the front end of the car.

That really is more of a drag racing concern though, lighter front end equals better/quicker weight transfer and harder launches.

I guess if you really do need the cooling upgrades, the extra weight from more coolant, larger tanks and HE could be offset by tubular K-members, A-arms etc.

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Most upgraded HEs are larger, and the increased surface area helps to cool. Also keep in mind that some HEs are single-pass, where the pricier units are dual-pass, so it goes under the fans effectively TWICE. More plumbing, more money. Also, build quality is important. Our Shelby HEs are very durable compared to cheaper units, and have a unique heat fin design (look up close) that helps maximize surface area and airflow to cool more fluid per square inch than less-expensive units.

 

 

Jer

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Good to know that there are significant differences.

Just out of curiousity, do you guys have some numbers on hp losses in something like back to back dyno pulls under hot weather conditions?

I would imagine down there it would be quite a bit.

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Thanks for your replies. I haven't had any issues yet but was thinking about the warmer weather coming up...

 

I guess it's debatable whether I need to upgrade the H/E but I am leaning towards the AFCO...

 

Malc

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I have an LFP installed in my 2011 along with a 3 x capacity tank and it stays at a solid 118*F while doing a WOT pulls on the highway at 140 MPH. Even at 70 MPH on the highway the intake temperature is the same. Cruising around in town, I logged the temps at 126*F. I do have the 2013 upper and lower grills installed on my car. Of course where you live and how hot it gets matters lot. You can install an intercooler in an hour start to finish, so if you do the LFP and don't like it, just sell it and buy the C and R one. Someone is selling a new C and R intercooler on the other very popular SVT forum. You can always jump on that.

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