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Will Lca And Relocation Brackets Stop Wheel Hop?


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The relocation brackets by themselves will not, they are designed to bring your rear LCA geometry back into correct alignment when lowering the car with springs. You can eliminate wheel hope with lowers only. What you want are parts that work as a package... the biggest problem most people have is trying to piece a suspension together with several manufacturers, then wondering why they don't work together. Suspension isn't a mystery, its science. Tuning it for an individual driver is the art. There is no one-size-fits-all. I personally don't like UCA's at all and recommend the torque-arm. If that's not in your budget a basic package of springs/LCA's/relocation brackets and UCA will do the job.

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The relocation brackets by themselves will not, they are designed to bring your rear LCA geometry back into correct alignment when lowering the car with springs. You can eliminate wheel hope with lowers only. What you want are parts that work as a package... the biggest problem most people have is trying to piece a suspension together with several manufacturers, then wondering why they don't work together. Suspension isn't a mystery, its science. Tuning it for an individual driver is the art. There is no one-size-fits-all. I personally don't like UCA's at all and recommend the torque-arm. If that's not in your budget a basic package of springs/LCA's/relocation brackets and UCA will do the job.

 

 

Adding relo brackets completely eliminated my wheel hop. Just saying... They don't call me Burnout Boy cuz I don't spin 'em.

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These look like BMR relocation brackets. I wonder if Shelby sourced them through BMR?

I thought that you were not going to start doing mods to this new car like you did with the last one Mark (Sorry , I had to say that for your wife and new baby) :cool:

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I thought that you were not going to start doing mods to this new car like you did with the last one Mark (Sorry , I had to say that for your wife and new baby) :cool:

Just a "light dusting" of mods! Not really mods at all. Just correcting design flaws. It is really more of a "safety" issue. ?

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The relocation brackets by themselves will not, they are designed to bring your rear LCA geometry back into correct alignment when lowering the car with springs. You can eliminate wheel hope with lowers only. What you want are parts that work as a package... the biggest problem most people have is trying to piece a suspension together with several manufacturers, then wondering why they don't work together. Suspension isn't a mystery, its science. Tuning it for an individual driver is the art. There is no one-size-fits-all. I personally don't like UCA's at all and recommend the torque-arm. If that's not in your budget a basic package of springs/LCA's/relocation brackets and UCA will do the job.

Could not agree more, I have stuck with Steeda for all my suspension mods and have not had a single issue.

 

Regards,

 

Manuel

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I've heard the relocation brackets can put more down force on the rear wheels, which can help with the hop.

 

Absolutely correct. My experience was that doing a standing burnout I had horrific and very embarrassing wheel hop. I came on this site and asked the same question. I got all the same answers you are getting here. e.g. Change the LCA's and UCA's if you really want to solve the problem. I took this acquired advice to my local mustang speed shop. JDM Engineering (http://www.teamjdm.com/) They said it was all an expensive proposition to accomplish something that adding relocation brackets would do for much less. AND have no effect on the quality of the ride. Jim D'Amore explained to me that if you replace the soft factory bushings with harder ones the ride will be harsher. And to give the relos a try. I did and I haven't had wheel hop since. As well, it eliminated that dreadful side walking when rounding a corner and hitting a bump in the road. It clearly made my rear wheels firmly planted to the road. I installed them myself.

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From your sig..

 

" 2009 FORD SHELBY GT500

-black w/white stripes

-every mod known to man "

.

One would think you were already schooled in what does & doesn't work ?

When I went to a shop way back when and told them I wanted to get rid of wheel hop, they recommended a UCA. This worked. This is my only first hand experience with it. However, the replies say something else may work. If you read my initial post, this is what I was looking for. I like to try to do my own work these says and LCA are much easier to install than UCA.

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Absolutely correct. My experience was that doing a standing burnout I had horrific and very embarrassing wheel hop. I came on this site and asked the same question. I got all the same answers you are getting here. e.g. Change the LCA's and UCA's if you really want to solve the problem. I took this acquired advice to my local mustang speed shop. JDM Engineering (http://www.teamjdm.com/) They said it was all an expensive proposition to accomplish something that adding relocation brackets would do for much less. AND have no effect on the quality of the ride. Jim D'Amore explained to me that if you replace the soft factory bushings with harder ones the ride will be harsher. And to give the relos a try. I did and I haven't had wheel hop since. As well, it eliminated that dreadful side walking when rounding a corner and hitting a bump in the road. It clearly made my rear wheels firmly planted to the road. I installed them myself.

You kept your stock LCA and installed a relocation bracket?

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I didn't notice a difference in ride quality after changing the bushings. The relocation brackets help with increased traction for drag race launches and burnouts but I have read that they negatively affect handling. I haven't tried them at a track day yet.

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I didn't notice a difference in ride quality after changing the bushings. The relocation brackets help with increased traction for drag race launches and burnouts but I have read that they negatively affect handling. I haven't tried them at a track day yet.

 

 

 

I tracked mine at Summit Point for 2 days. Was a beast in the corners. Better than most...

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When I went to a shop way back when and told them I wanted to get rid of wheel hop, they recommended a UCA. This worked. This is my only first hand experience with it. However, the replies say something else may work. If you read my initial post, this is what I was looking for. I like to try to do my own work these says and LCA are much easier to install than UCA.

 

 

To be clear... I'm not saying changing UCA's or LCA's won't work. There are many folks that have done this and are extremely happy. I just tried the relo's and was extremely satisfied. Saved money and time installing.

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LCA's by themselves with no relo bracket worked perfectly on my '09, but my Ford Racing springs did not drop the car too much either. There are a lot of geometrical differences between all the different mod options for set up. I agree that proper setup is more than just science... there is an "art" to it. What works for one car/driver may not work for another.

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Mark,

I hope that you and others here realize that there is a big difference in the geometry in the rear of a 2005 - 2010 and a 2011 - 2014 S197 ( Mustang/Shelby ) from the factory. The first and foremost item that lets you know there is a difference is the UCA and mount.

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Mark,

I hope that you and others here realize that there is a big difference in the geometry in the rear of a 2005 - 2010 and a 2011 - 2014 S197 ( Mustang/Shelby ) from the factory. The first and foremost item that lets you know there is a difference is the UCA and mount.

Lots the same and a lot is different underneath the car. I really don't want to change much if I can help it. A lot of effort was put into this cars suspension from svt. If the weather holds, I'm going to the track this weekend. Only mods are going to be ATE dot 4 and nt01's. I wanna see how this cars times compare to my old car and the 12' boss.

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I noticed vmp has a anti-wheel hop package for the 13'-14'. It is BMR LCA and relocation brackets.

I think I'm gonna try a relocation bracket with my stock LCA and see what happens. If it doesn't feel right, I'll add a LCA.

Sounds like a plan. The BMR is plenty beefy for a relocate bracket ( I prefer a 3 hole position relocate bracket for finer tuning than a 2 hole unit ). I hope that your OEM LCA will fit inside the BMR relocate brackets. JMO

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