UKGT500 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I am thinking of doing this: upgrading the stock 11.8" discs to 13.8 or 14". I guess it's pretty well known that the GT500s just have the same rear brakes as the GT with the possible exception of an upgraded pad material, whatever difference that may make. Anyway there seem to be quite a few options for not a huge amount of money. One that appeals is Vorshlagg's which uses stock calipers on a 13.8" disc. The kit is pretty cheap really but when I emailed them they did recommend using 2011+ calipers that cost about $350 extra even though they are unable to verify what the difference is between the pre-2011 calipers or whether the earliercalipers will fit. This one: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=606 Or there's this from Shelby themselves: http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/z-2262019.htm Only problem with the Shelby one is the discs won't match my fronts unless I also buy drilled front discs. I was planning on just upgrading the rears. The stopping power is pretty good actually but I am always looking for little improvements to my GT500. Anyone notice any difference from upgrading the rears? Are they likely to lock up or is there a brake proportioning valve that can be adjusted? I have to say my car stops pretty even and with not too much dive.... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 You are better off putting the Steeda 13" rear brake set up on if you still have the 14" Brembo front brakes. The 13.8" is too much in the rear unless you go with the 15" fronts and the 2013-14 rear caliper and bracket are different due to the radius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
- Aj - Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 You are better off putting the Steeda 13" rear brake set up on if you still have the 14" Brembo front brakes. The 13.8" is too much in the rear unless you go with the 15" fronts and the 2013-14 rear caliper and bracket are different due to the radius. This is a nice kit for the rear: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-13-inch-mustang-rear-brake-upgrade-kit-555-6009/ Nice kit for front/rear: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-shelby-gt500-mustang-brake-upgrade-kit-555-6015/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKGT500 Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 That Steeda kit does look good and is a pretty good price. It's interesting that so many kits use the existing caliper and still claim improved braking. So the pad area isn't increased but the stock calipers still provide improved braking with a larger diameter disc... Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 That Steeda kit does look good and is a pretty good price. It's interesting that so many kits use the existing caliper and still claim improved braking. So the pad area isn't increased but the stock calipers still provide improved braking with a larger diameter disc... Malc Yes because of the increase in leverage due to the increase in distance from the axle centerline. I also recommend using Hawk HPS pads front and rear and the KR front brake ducting kit w/KR lower grille inlets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITHERTZ66 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 What about the added weight (5lbs per side)? At what point are there diminishing returns with all these big rotor upgrades? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKGT500 Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Steeda kit looks good. I wonder if there is a benefit to the slotted front rotors apart from them matching the new rears...? It seems to be a long running topic of debate as to which is better: plain discs, slotted, drilled, drilled and slotted. There seem to be arguments for each. I was hoping to not have to pull the half shafts but I can't see an alternative to that now. I don't think it's hard and did a similar job on my much loved and missed Trans Am (1971 455HO no less but I don't miss the fuel economy of that car...). Worst bit about pulling the half shafts for me is not having the "lateral space" so to speak, in my garage so I'd probably have to remove the entire axle so I can turn it sideways in my garage and pull the half shafts then. Regarding increased weight: well I have wondered about this before especially regarding larger wheels which increase unsprung weight. Steeda claim theirs to be the lightest though. My LCAs are by Blow By Racing who claim their LCAs to be the lightest on the market though I dare say adding weight to the back of a GT500 may not be all bad... Thanks for the replies so far. Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03 DSG Snake Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 The best part of the OEM 2013 rear upgrade is that rotors are a lot easier to source both OEM and aftermarket. Steeda rotors I believe you are stuck using what they use if you need to replace or want to upgrade down the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 What about the added weight (5lbs per side)? At what point are there diminishing returns with all these big rotor upgrades? The diminishing returns are started when you have to buy larger diameter wheels and tires to clear the brakes. That goes for weight and money wise. JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 i have been looking for a rear rotors for my (2010 500) for years , just can't find one that are larger than the 13.8 or 14. as you can see in my picture the rear rotor looks to small. i am looking for a rear to match the front without spending $3500 plus without replacing all of the rotors , are there any other options that are larger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKGT500 Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 i have been looking for a rear rotors for my (2010 500) for years , just can't find one that are larger than the 13.8 or 14. as you can see in my picture the rear rotor looks to small. i am looking for a rear to match the front without spending $3500 plus without replacing all of the rotors , are there any other options that are larger I guess the stock 11.8 rotors look smaller on your car because of your 20" wheels. So 13.8 or 14 inch would look like the fronts. However it was pointed out to me that 13.8 rears would be too much for the stock 15" fronts and it is being suggested that the Steeda 13" would be a good upgrade and it looks like they would be. I reckon I will likely go with the Steeda rears. What's funny is that most ordinary British cars years ago used to have 13 inch wheels!!! Who would have thought brakes would get this big...? Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jskup1 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I installed the '13 rotors and brackets and haven't noticed an improvement, other than aesthetically. I will be updating the pads and lines, but wanted to do the brackets while I had the diff cover off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 i have been looking for a rear rotors for my (2010 500) for years , just can't find one that are larger than the 13.8 or 14. as you can see in my picture the rear rotor looks to small. i am looking for a rear to match the front without spending $3500 plus without replacing all of the rotors , are there any other options that are larger so what they are saying is the 13.8 or 14 would be to much stopping power with keeping the stock front rotors ? what would happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I guess the stock 11.8 rotors look smaller on your car because of your 20" wheels. So 13.8 or 14 inch would look like the fronts. However it was pointed out to me that 13.8 rears would be too much for the stock 15" fronts and it is being suggested that the Steeda 13" would be a good upgrade and it looks like they would be. Malc Malc, Your 2007 GT500 came with 14" front rotors with Brembo 4 piston calipers. So did the 2010 GT500 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGT Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Agree with Albino500 - if you don't mind pulling the axles then go with the Steedas. Personally though, I think it's a lot of work for relatively little performance return on this nose heavy car. Mine has two piece slotted front & rear DBA rotors with upgraded pads, lines, ducts, etc. The car stops like a much lighter car now and no brake overheating issues at the track. JMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Saleen215 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I'm running the KR brake bezels and ducting with the '13 front and rear with Hawk HPS pads. I pulled the axles and used the '13 mounting brackets...all the rest is still the '08 stuff. However, the "anti-moan" brackets won't mount up and you end up tossing them. I've tracked a numer of times with this setup and still on the same pads. I like using the OEM rotors since you can find them (usually cheap) AND you can turn them. Some rotors are a "run-once" affair. Attached is what it looks like when it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svttim Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Another option, lighter as well as larger. Two piece rotors http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/2011-2013_Boss_302_Brake_parts.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I'm running the KR brake bezels and ducting with the '13 front and rear with Hawk HPS pads. I pulled the axles and used the '13 mounting brackets...all the rest is still the '08 stuff. However, the "anti-moan" brackets won't mount up and you end up tossing them. I've tracked a numer of times with this setup and still on the same pads. I like using the OEM rotors since you can find them (usually cheap) AND you can turn them. Some rotors are a "run-once" affair. Attached is what it looks like when it's done. The '13 brake set up is a nice street/track set up but you will need to go to a 19" wheel or larger and I might add that it doesn't have the "anti-moan" brackets on the rear as it comes from the factory that way (they were not needed) . I have that set up on redneckgt's grabber blue 2010 street car with the 19" RTR wheels. The Full Tilt Boogie set up is nice and expensive but geared more for a race set up. JMO Brake pad selection is important ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSGT500 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I installed the 2013 GT500 larger rotors on my 2007 and it was worth the time and money. The car feels much more balanced under hard braking. I noticed less front end dive. It feels like the rears are contributing more to the stop than just being along for the ride. You can get a good deal on this setup from Rehagen Racing for $370. I deleted the moan brackets and had to grind the caliper bridge brackets for clearance. You also can order all the parts from a local Ford dealer, but they will be more expensive if you have to pay list price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500 Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 I installed the 2013 GT500 larger rotors on my 2007 and it was worth the time and money. The car feels much more balanced under hard braking. I noticed less front end dive. It feels like the rears are contributing more to the stop than just being along for the ride. You can get a good deal on this setup from Rehagen Racing for $370. I deleted the moan brackets and had to grind the caliper bridge brackets for clearance. You also can order all the parts from a local Ford dealer, but they will be more expensive if you have to pay list price. ssgt500 your talking about the rear rotors ,will these fit my 2010 gt 500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Saleen215 Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 ssgt500 your talking about the rear rotors ,will these fit my 2010 gt 500 Yep, I believe it's the same for all pre-'13 cars. Have to pull the axles and use the '13-'14 caliper mounting bracket, but all your other OEM stuff will bolt right back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSGT500 Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 ssgt500 your talking about the rear rotors ,will these fit my 2010 gt 500Yes. Just remember to check the clearance between the caliper bridge bracket and the rotor. I had to grind mine slightly as the bracket came in contact with the rotor. I discarded the anti moan bracket. The moan bracket always looked like a stupid afterthought anyway. Also note the caliper mount brackets are different, right from left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 thanks , i think that will be the best way for me ,i will get better braking and it will fill up the space ,i just would like the rotor to be just a little bit larger, but this will work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSGT500 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 You will have to pull the rear axles to install the caliper mount brackets. That means removing the axle cover, the lock bolt, center pin and c clips. It will give you an opportunity to install an aluminum axle cover if you don't have one now. Ford recommends using a new lock bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 so my rear calipers will work with the 13-14 rear rotor set up or i have to buy the 13-14 calipers also,because reghan racing sell the rotors with the brackets without the calipers ? and if i don't have to change the calipers do i still have to remove the axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSGT500 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 so my rear calipers will work with the 13-14 rear rotor set up or i have to buy the 13-14 calipers also,because reghan racing sell the rotors with the brackets without the calipers ? and if i don't have to change the calipers do i still have to remove the axles. I expect your 2010 calipers are the same as my 2007. They are two pieces. The bridge part and the piston part. On mine, the bridge part rubbed against the larger rotor. A little grinding took care of that. If you preferred not to grind the bridge, you could buy the 2013 bridge. You have to pull the axles to r&r the caliper mounting plates. Those plates mount to the axle flange and the calipers then mount to the plates. The plates move the caliper further away from the axle center to accomodate the larger rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I expect your 2010 calipers are the same as my 2007. They are two pieces. The bridge part all and the piston part. On mine, the bridge part rubbed against the larger rotor. A little grinding took care of that. If you preferred not to grind the bridge, you could buy the 2013 bridge. You have to pull the axles to r&r the caliper mounting plates. Those plates mount to the axle flange and the calipers then mount to the plates. The plates move the caliper further away from the axle center to accomodate the larger rotor. ss, thanks i 'll have to have a shop do it ,thanks for all the help and info, is this a job you and the others did yourself and is it that difficult besides bleeding the brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSGT500 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 ss, thanks i 'll have to have a shop do it ,thanks for all the help and info, is this a job you and the others did yourself and is it that difficult besides bleeding the brakes I did it myself. You can do it without bleeding the brakes if you swing the caliper out of the way. Never hurts to bleed the brakes however. You may have to paint the new brackets to match your axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Saleen215 Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 +1 myself - I have a set of '13 caliper "bridge" mounts that I don't need. My OEM one's didn't rub the rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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