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Idler Pulley Or Shorter Belt...?


cormy

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Plan on installing a smaller blower pully in spring. I notice there is a smaller belt as well as the tried and true idler pulley to take up the slack.

 

Which is the better product??

 

Not saying better product, maybe better function?, but the auxiliary idler will give a better "belt wrap" around the blower pulley and take up some belt slack.

 

 

 

 

 

R

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  • 5 weeks later...

That set up does look sharp.. :wub:

 

Please tell me how it went as far as the installation. Tips? I plan on the same installation.

 

Also have you driven the car since install? Assessment of product?

 

Thanks.

Took me a lot longer than I expected (just over a whole afternoon which I couldn't imagine at the start).

This is mainly due to the old blower pulley that just didn't want to budge.

 

Some people recommend driving the car to warm it up as the heated pulley apparently comes off easier but I didn't want to do that as I wanted to disconnect the engine and blower coolant reservoirs and heated water would be less pleasant...

 

Part of the problem may be that I was using a distinctly second-hand VMP pulley puller tool which had a partially stripped thread so I had to mod it to get it to work!

 

Anyway here are my tips:

 

Get the VMP (or equivalent) puller well lubricated, lined up correctly exactly as their instructions. Pay particular attention to the pin that aligns inside the blower shaft. I was as careful as possible with this but still I burred the edge of the thread slightly.

 

Because of this I had a thread tap ready and I did use it to clean up the burred thread. The shaft thread will be important to press the new pulley on.

 

I recommend a power steering pulley kit to install the new pulley. This is what I used as I struggled with the VMP tool which was already past its' best after a few uses...

 

Heat: very carefully using a blowtorch I heated the old pulley. The pulley just did not want to budge. Using heat and the puller it came off quickly once I had decided to do this. When I say carefully I noticed there is a seal at on the blower shaft at the case. You never want this to leak. I used the minimum amount of heat I could use to ease the old pulley off. In fact I didn't even melt the black paint and the pulley didn't get damaged taking it off.

 

Tensioner installation: Only remove the 3 bolts as directed. The new long bolts and spacers use holes that are used to fix a block that is part of the cooling system. This is another reason not to get the engine hot first. From memory I think there are only 2 bolts then left at the bottom holding this part on and all that lovely coolant is behind this. Use plenty of threadlock as directed.

 

The kit I bought had cooler heat range NGK TR6 plugs. I gapped the new plugs midway in the range recommended. This is a LOT smaller gap than stock!

 

Loading the tune is fun and has to be done exactly as directed but it's dead easy.

 

Most people on here will no doubt have more experience than me in doing this but these are tips from my install as a rookie. I've been working on my own cars (and other people's sometimes...) for 20 years and there are very few people I would trust to touch my car over here.

 

Intake: real easy and the instructions say tighten clips "hand tight". In actual fact I found the air filter dropped off after about 2 miles and didn't stay on until I tightened the clips up pretty tight with a 1/42 drive. Apparently I am not the only one who has had this: coming loose at the air filter end or throttle body end. JLT who make the intake make a longer rubber connecting sleeve for the throttle body end and if I had known I would have bought this. Why they don't include it I don't know. My intake is 123mm. TBH I think there are better intakes than the JLT one and I wish I had bought the Ford Racing one for example. I wanted to buy an "off the shelf" package but I am pretty sure Brenspeed would have a tune for a different intake if I had asked.

 

With the JLT the filter still touches inside the hood slightly despite me trying to align it slightly differently a couple of times. Guess I am going to have to live with that. I used the supplied spacers for the tower brace to make clearance between that and the intake.

 

In short I recommend having to hand:

 

VMP puller

Power steering puller/installer kit

Thread tap for the shaft thread

Loctite

 

As for the experience of whether it was worth the install: let me tell you the difference in drivability is astonishing. I still have the original tyres and the roads are cold and rarely totally dry at the moment so it will be a while before I know how much faster it is but the drivability and access to boost is now incredible. It actually takes concentration to keep the boost out of it! The torque delivery from just above tickover is incredible and you can control the car so easily just on the throttle now.

 

This is a Stage 2 kit and take next to some of the mad cars on here but it is still quite something. I know it sounds great to have 800 RWHP and all that but think about all the true musclecars from even the late 60's/early 70's and, bone stock, from the factory floor did any of those cars: Hemi 'Cuda, LS-6 Chevelle, 427 Corvettes, Boss 429, 428CJ, SD455 Trans Am (getting carried away here about my favourite subjects - musclecars!) Did any of those cars have near 600HP?

 

Guess not so in real world terms I'd say this is a LOT of power.

 

Last word: This is far cheaper for you folks in the USA. It cost me about £1500 including shipping and duty (that part was about 30% of the cost) This also included $299 for a 2008+ crank pulley/balancer and new bolt but I haven't installed that yet. This is recommended for 2007 GT500s that have the super heavy first design pulley.

 

In the US this kit is $1100 or less for a kit that totally transforms these cars. It would be criminal not to buy it!

 

Malc

Note I don't really care how long things take me: getting it done right is 100% important to me and I spent time on cleaning the spark plug covers and valve covers and engine bay while I was doing this job so that no doubt contributed to it taking so long...

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