Grabber Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) I saw those and I'm going to ask if he thinks they will help. Has anyone installed this set up without upgrading there strut mounts? It's hard to believe it's supposed to make this much noise. I figured out what it sounds like. Have you heard those kids riding around in those low rider trucks where you can hear the suspension bottoming out. Well that's what it sounds like. If you have noise like that coming from your front struts, the mounts are probably dried out and or need to be replaced. These mounts are better than what came with our cars. These came with the 2011 with the Performance Package option. See this video and it will explain that: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKXAweTaD6M#t=4 Edited February 8, 2014 by Grabber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ati Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) I had the Ford dealer install the KR kit minus the springs, I already had the Ford Racing Lowering Springs on it. Since intallation I have a lot of noise coming from the front that wasn't there before. Its seems to only be there at slower speeds like going down my neighborhood when it hits the expansion joints in the concrete. The installer said it could be because the stock strut has some type of rubber between it and the strut tower and the KR kit is more metal on metal. Does this sound right or is he crazy. I also had him put my upgraded jounce bumpers back on the new struts instead of using the ones that came with it. Any suggestions on what I can do would be appreaciated. I'm only guessing here but maybe the problem is the Ford lowering springs you used instead of the KR springs that go with the kit. Maybe the KR springs and struts are designed to work together and not separate from each other. The KR springs will only lower the front about 5/8 '' and if your Ford lowering springs are lowering it more then 5/8'' then the front strut is being compressed more than it was intended to do and possibly making the noise. Again I'm only guessing. Edited February 8, 2014 by ati Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tob Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 I've had both the KR springs as well as the 5300-L springs on my '09. The drop was nearly identical up front between the two. The original springs as well as the KR's come with an isolator sleeve slipped on to the lowest coil. The 5300-L springs don't come with them. Did you not transfer the isolator's over to your FRPP springs prior to installing them onto the KR struts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ati Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 I've had both the KR springs as well as the 5300-L springs on my '09. The drop was nearly identical up front between the two. The original springs as well as the KR's come with an isolator sleeve slipped on to the lowest coil. The 5300-L springs don't come with them. Did you not transfer the isolator's over to your FRPP springs prior to installing them onto the KR struts? Good Thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cajun50 Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Thanks for the video Grabber, I will definitely order these since I'm pretty sure they will have to take the struts off to fix what ever is wrong with it. Tob, I'm gonna make sure I ask them about this when I go in on Monday. I also have the Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates on my car but I had no noise the day before installation and all kind of noise the day after so I don't think this is affecting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the video Grabber, I will definitely order these since I'm pretty sure they will have to take the struts off to fix what ever is wrong with it. Tob, I'm gonna make sure I ask them about this when I go in on Monday. I also have the Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates on my car but I had no noise the day before installation and all kind of noise the day after so I don't think this is affecting it. Your welcome. Let us know how the repair goes. The lower spring isolator that TOB is mentioning is wrapped around the lower pigtail (larger diameter coil) of the new spring prior to installation. The spring is installed such that the end of the lower pigtail rests against the stop on the strut’s lower spring perch. See the photo that 6 speed took of his installation. click on it to enlarge. Edited February 8, 2014 by Grabber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tob Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Yup. Here's a shot where you can see them on the KR springs before I removed them. They come off easily enough whether on OEM or KR springs. I then slid them onto the 5300-L springs that I used when I added the Bilstein Damptronics to my '09. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cajun50 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Thanks for the suggestions. Just got it back after installing new isolator sleeves and no more noise. I couldn't reuse my old ones because after being in the attic 3 years in south Louisiana they weren't much good anymore. They were never reused after changing them. Now for the next problem to trouble shoot that has just popped up. I also installed the SPEC SS trim clutch at the same time. It seems to work great, I've got 25,000 miles on my car so I do drive it, but there is a noise that has just started. It doesn't happen every time I take off but if I'm trying to slowly start rolling and not take off real fast I'm getting a chirping noise. It almost sounds like two pieces of metal rubbing. Any suggestions again would be appreciated. I read in another post someone talking about using the proper Ford PTFE greese on transmission shaft. Don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cajun50 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Almost forgot. The installer at Ford said he reused the release bearing from my stock clutch because the kit didn't come with a new one. Again I have no idea if this would cause the noise I'm hearing but thought I would add it for discussion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Thanks for the suggestions. Just got it back after installing new isolator sleeves and no more noise. I couldn't reuse my old ones because after being in the attic 3 years in south Louisiana they weren't much good anymore. They were never reused after changing them. Now for the next problem to trouble shoot that has just popped up. I also installed the SPEC SS trim clutch at the same time. It seems to work great, I've got 25,000 miles on my car so I do drive it, but there is a noise that has just started. It doesn't happen every time I take off but if I'm trying to slowly start rolling and not take off real fast I'm getting a chirping noise. It almost sounds like two pieces of metal rubbing. Any suggestions again would be appreciated. I read in another post someone talking about using the proper Ford PTFE greese on transmission shaft. Don't know. I'm glad our suggestions helped you get your suspension problem fixed. Please use a clutch thread to discuss you clutch issues and leave this one on topic for the suspension stuff. Thanks, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Just finished the installation the the KR handling kit on both my 2007 and my wifes 2009 GT500. Did the adjustable pan hard bar and new strut mounts and yada yada yada yada. Had to take out the boom box in both cars to get the passenger side rear shock in. I want to thank Ivan (6-Speed) for his great installation write ups on the entire installation. I had my I-Pad with me and followed his instructions on every step. They were so helpful. I would not of done this mod if his write up did not exist. THANK YOU Ivan !! Both cars test drove great. They both feel much tighter around corners. Awesome. I plan on getting both cars aligned soon so the tires wear correctly. The cars drove fine and perfectly straight, but I know that a alignment is needed after front struts are replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Rob ... glad the install went well! Aside from the improved suspension performance, the slightly lowered stance is an added benefit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Rob ... glad the install went well! Aside from the improved suspension performance, the slightly lowered stance is an added benefit. We really like the new stance of the cars Ivan. The back ends went down 1 inch and the front dropped down 5/8 of a inch. They both look really cool...especially with our new KR Wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rarecat Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Just bought my sets, thanks for all the great info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavisky Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Mine should be delivered today.Curious to see if any one who's using this has made the switch to the appropriate front sway bar as well since the KR's shipped with the thinner GT front bar to reduce understeer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Mine should be delivered today. Curious to see if any one who's using this has made the switch to the appropriate front sway bar as well since the KR's shipped with the thinner GT front bar to reduce understeer? They are not available anywhere. I have been told you would not notice the difference anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al ellison Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Just had mine installed on my '07 vert. Great upgrade; it's the stance and feel they should have come with. What a deal on these kits @ $167! I have not installed the KR wheels; still deciding. Thanks to those who shared the info; TS is how I found out about this. Safe driving & God bless, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Just had mine installed on my '07 vert. Great upgrade; it's the stance and feel they should have come with. What a deal on these kits @ $167! I have not installed the KR wheels; still deciding. Thanks to those who shared the info; TS is how I found out about this. Safe driving & God bless, Out of curiosity, what does a good shop charge to install the kit and adjustable panhard bar ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al ellison Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Out of curiosity, what does a good shop charge to install the kit and adjustable panhard bar ? $300 to $350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 $300 to $350 Including a front end alignment ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavisky Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 They are not available anywhere. I have been told you would not notice the difference anyways. Well surely there's a regular S197 GT that's upgraded to aftermarket swaybars, just need to find one semi-local so I don't get reamed on shipping. My only concern is inducing more understeer with the combination of the stiffer spring rates, surely that's why Shelby backed down to a smaller bar up front. There's no other reason for them to have made the change otherwise that I can imagine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al ellison Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Including a front end alignment ? Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyII Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Well surely there's a regular S197 GT that's upgraded to aftermarket swaybars, just need to find one semi-local so I don't get reamed on shipping. My only concern is inducing more understeer with the combination of the stiffer spring rates, surely that's why Shelby backed down to a smaller bar up front. There's no other reason for them to have made the change otherwise that I can imagine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Mustang-GT-Front-Anti-Sway-Bar-2005-09-Stock-GT-new-car-take-off-V8-/111301829864?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ea1b24e8&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cormy Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 May attempt to do the swap this weekend (if the boat is out of the lift bay). I have a question after watching youtube videos on the subject: Is it really necessary to remove the front and rear brake calipers and rotors for removal of the stock components & installation of the kit? Its seems unnecessary and is more work. BUT not sure..so I'm asking. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revan Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 May attempt to do the swap this weekend (if the boat is out of the lift bay). I have a question after watching youtube videos on the subject: Is it really necessary to remove the front and rear brake calipers and rotors for removal of the stock components & installation of the kit? Its seems unnecessary and is more work. BUT not sure..so I'm asking. Thanks in advance I had a friend help me do mine, who is FAR better of a mechanic than I am. My memory of it all is a little hazy, but I do know for the rear we didn't disconnect the brakes at all. First we removed the rear struts. Then we jacked up the rear and then put stands under the back of the car on the frame (make sure you put the stands in the right area). This had the effect of letting the rear suspension completely come down as far the control arms would allow. At that point it was literally a matter of taking the springs off (with the struts off they literally just sit there on the mounting point) and putting the new ones in their place. The front ones we did have to dismpount the brake assembly; if memory serves me correctly I believe the front brake assembly mounts near the a-arms and is in the way otherwise. We didn't disconnect brake lines or anything, just used rope to tie the whole thing to the car until we were done. A few other tidbits to add for other posts Alignment - I googled it when I was at the shop for the alignment and the only difference I could find from the base GT500 alignment specs was a camber of -1.5 on each side, as opposed to -.75 on the stock GT500. I couldn't find anything saying the caster or toe-in was any different. It's a small difference but I had them align it as the KR was spec'd. Also, I ended up going with the Shelby caster camber plates when we did my install. I don't track it competitively so it wasn't a necessity, but for $300 it was nice to know my shop could dial it in exactly the way it should be. If you have the budget for them I recommend it for peace of mind if nothing else. Overal performance improvement In a word, HUGE performance improvement for my 08 GT500! I've gone a little further than some of the others here so it's hard to compare my setup to everyone else. I replaced the front k-member, a-arms, and radiator support up front with BMR tubular parts, so I'm running about 50lbs less weight up front than a stock 07-09 GT500 and that by itself was a HUGE handling improvement. I also had replaced the front strut tower brace with the KR brace and noticed a subtle but definite improvement in how the front stayed planted in the curves. I also had done the Shelby rear shock tower brace beforehand as well, and let me say it was definitely a big improvement, especially for the $150 price tag. When the rear snapped out it tended to regain composure more precisely with the shock tower brace than without. For the rear - I took a different route here. Instead of an adjustable panhard I went with the fays2 watts link setup (I love the blue color I got from ordering through Shelby). Several times more expensive than a panhard, but VERY worth it in my opinion. I did it at the same time as the KR suspension set so I can't exactly say how much of the improvement in handling was due to the watts link vs. the new suspension, but I can say the car is just so much more stable now. It doesn't get all "floaty" when running on bumpy surfaces and its generally more composed in the corners. In fact I'm having a hard time telling if it handles as well or better than my 07 Shelby GT (which is quite a corner carver). I definitely have to throw the 500 into the corner harder just to overcome the extra weight up front, but once it's cornering it's really well composed. In fact I had this odd feeling that it was almost improved "too much" - I almost missed the fact that the 500 was such a beast to handle beforehand Anyway, hope this feedback helps others. If nothing else, the $200 price tag of the KR suspension package is a no-brainer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 I just completed the installation this system on both my GT500 and my wife's GT500. It is not necessary to remove the brakes on front or back of the car. Ivan (6-Speed) provided me with his step by step instructions with photos. Follow these and you will be successful. 1st link is the rear, 2nd is the front and the 3rd link is the pan hard bar. I compressed the front springs by hand while my wife started the top nut. My wife also helped me install the front struts. A 2nd hand is needed. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/629361-how-i-installed-rear-lowering-springs.html http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/647336-how-i-installed-front-lowering-springs.html http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/627132-how-i-installed-adjustable-panhard-bar.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revan Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Cool, good to know I won't have to work as hard if I ever do this again An additional point of feedback I forgot to add. Prior to this setup I had bad traction issues - spinning the tires all the way into 4th. Granted I'm running a VMP TVS setup somewhere around the 650 crank HP range, and not on drag radials or anything radical (I actually run continental extremecontact DWS tires out back), but after all these mods were done I can completely stick 2ND gear now, which as all GT500 owners know is quite a feat at this power level. So much more fun when all that power is usable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cormy Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 You guys are too Much !! Great info............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 You guys are too Much !! Great info............... Read the links and study them prior to the installation. Use his tool lists. Also if you can have a computer or iPad in the garage with you to use his instructions during the install it will help you a lot. You do have to remove the shaker 1000 from the trunk but that is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavisky Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Got the rears on last night. Minor differences I noticed: 1. On convertibles the factory rear bracing has to come undone to let the rear end sag enough to be able to remove the factory springs. 2. Due to the extra weight of the convertible my rear end seems to have dropped by closer to 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 inch immediately after install. I expect this to settle in at about 1-1/4-1-3/8" total drop in the rear. 3. Rear gap is still higher than the front without the front lowering springs installed yet. 2" vs 1-7/8" - front is supposed to drop by 5/8" according to other people - will tear the front apart tonight and find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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