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Pulley Swap and a Tune With Dyno Numbers


lbj

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I got my Mustang back from RWR Motorsports today.

 

The 3.375in pulley was replaced with a 3.125in pulley.

At this altitude, I was pushing 7lbs, now I am right at 9lbs.

 

Unfortunately, Rob did not do a baseline run. Argh!

 

I must say, I got some of the zip back from the loss of power due to being at 5,000ft.

 

Ooh La la!

 

Here are the SAE corrected numbers:

 

580rwhp and 484lbs torque

 

SAEDyno1_zps0ec96acb.jpg

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I hear you. I would have to be careful.

I just had to make up for this altitude. It was getting to me.

 

I did save the old pulley, hardware, and belt, as well as the old tune saved to my SCT tuner.

 

Rob wants me to do an E85 tune for it as well if I ever find the fuel available in my area.

But what would I get? Like 8 miles a gallon on that stuff? He says the numbers it would put up would be incredible.

 

I dunno, ethanol just seems too weird for me right now.

But never say never.

 

I'm just happy I found a decent tuner in my area.

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Rob says he's done E85 tunes for several Mustangs with Coyotes and it works well, getting high HP results.

 

I am not of a mind right now to do something so radical.

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Nothing on my fuel door that says it's comp[atible.

 

I just read up on the corrosive effects of ethanol, so I am nopt going to do that.

 

On the bright side, I just went for a nice test drive. There is no doubt whatsoever I have more power and quickness than before the pulley change.

I used to hold a constant speed at 3K RPM in second, and even with the nannies turned off, I wouldn't spin the tires when I punched it.

 

Now, it spins pretty well.

 

I will need to increase my driving skills from what they were before.

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Good to see you finally got the pulley swap you planned for and appears you regained some of the power lost @ this altitude. Nice to find a local guy like Rob who's been around these cars for sometime. I had my clutch replaced by RWR and I'm quite pleased with the results.

 

Cheers,

Ray

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Rob Williams did a great job.

Currently, the throttle seems more responsive and the car accelerates quicker with less pedal travel when not in boost.

 

In boost, the power is back baby!

 

I went to 5W30 motor oil.

I mean, if the GT Track Pack with the same Coyote I have is spec'd for 5W50, 5W30 should be fine for me. The car resides in a heated garage at 66 degrees.

I must say, the engine is much quieter than before, to me, a good thing.

 

The engine always sounded like a bucket of bolts with 5W20, and now, I don't have that problem anymore.

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It was my idea. He generally stays with 5W20.

 

With my oil consumption numbers, at 1500/qt, and the fact that I have a heated garage and the car isn't left outside in the cold at night, he thought it would be OK. But this is on me.

 

I am probably to blame regarding my oil consumption numbers.

With 1200 miles on the car, and based on how hard I drive it, I went to full synthetic 5W20. I am guessing I delayed the break in period.

 

With 8000 miles on it now, I decided to switch to 5W30 Motorcraft Synthetic blend.

 

I have never seen blue smoke coming from the tailpipe, nor has my wife when she has followed me at WOT.

I watched the tailpipes during the dyno testing and saw no blue smoke whatsoever either.

 

I saved the old spark plugs and will put up a photo of them.

All 8 of them look the same, no variations.

 

RWR tells me they looked OK and are not indicitive of any major oil consumption issues.

 

Where does the oil go?

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when you mentioned that the track pack engine uses 5W-50 is that the same engine that you have? Is that the Boss engine? If so I believe the Boss has forged rods, pistons, and crank and you do not. The difference could be in the side clearances between the two engines. I do not think switching to 5W-30 is an issue but if you do not have the same engine as the Boss I would not switch to 5W-50.

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Don't know if you are using a catch can but if you're not I would suggest using one on the passenger side. It would at least answer where some of the oil is going and would certainly reduce the oil going into your induction system. I should take my own advice.

 

BTW - that plug appears to be in decent shape, may be someone else can chime in with their opinion.

 

Cheers,

Ray

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The GT Track Pack is just a GT with a package. The engine is the same as any GT and it's spec'd for 5W50.

I think the package is under a 2,000 add on, and includes wheels, brake upgrades and a couple of suspension upgrades as well.

My guess is Ford figures on track use, high revs abd high oil temperatures for a GT Track Pack, hence the 5W50.

 

I did the 5W30.

 

The plug looks OK to me as well. Not perfect but acceptable.

Though I picked out the worst one, all 8 plugs were pretty much the same, so no real particular offender there.

It seems to me if I was burning all that oil, the plug would be wet looking and have irregular deposits all over the electrode and the arm thingie.

I'm not seeing that. Maybe someone else with more expertise will analyze the plug differently than I have.

 

I just got my oil separators installed. In a hundred miles, it's caught a tablespoon at the very least.

 

But a quart in 1500 miles before seems like a lot of fine mist oil to be sucking out of the valve covers into the SC.

I'm burning oil using the 5W20, the question is how. Is it rings, valves or the PVC system.

 

I watched the dyno run, no blue smoke.

I look in the rear view mirror, I am not seeing any smoke.

 

We'll see what the oil mileage is on the 5W30 soon. I figure at 500 miles, I can extrapolate the oil mileage well enough.

 

Time will tell.

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I would definitely get a couple of oil separators. There have been other discussions on here with the GT350 guys and on many other Mustang forums. The 5.0 is pretty much known for this, even more so when boosted. Even though there is no smoke and clean plugs, I'm guessing that it is being burned. It would be a good idea either way.

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RWR seemed to think the plugs looked fine. Me? OK, not perfect though.

 

I read other Mustang forums and see many post their Coyotes don't burn any measurable oil between 5K mile oil changes.

 

Mine's not like that and i have a hard time believing folks are burning less than 1/4 quart in 5 to 7 thousand miles. But it could be true, I guess.

I have never owned a car that did that well. I'd say the best any car I have owned did 3K miles a quart at best.

 

Oil consumption or not, my Mustang with the tune and pulley swap is simply amazing to drive at this altitude.

It simply hauls ass.

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Some vehicles as we know burn some to significant amounts of oil, regardless of being new or broken in. Don't know much about the 5.0 engines but this is the case on my '01 Audi A6 2.7T (twin turbo). The manual states it will burn about a quart of oil between oil changes (may be because of the turbo's?). I really didn't think this was the case until I actually checked @ the tail end of an oil change that indeed it had burned about a quart of oil. Certainly got my attention and quickly refilled to the level it should be. So in other words this may be just how you're engine is? I would also check with SAI to see what their opinion is on this. The other factor may simply be spirited driving you know keeping your foot in it... :tim_hahn:

 

Cheers,

Ray

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There isn't much I can really do about it because when the 624HP Whipple went on, my drivetrain warranty was immediately terminated by Ford.

 

I have read that some of these Coyotes can take up to 15K miles to break in and some stay at the their current oil mileage.

Ford tells it's customers to wait until 15,000 miles if the oil mileage is over 500 miles a quart.

 

I had contact with someone who had a Coyote that was doing what mine is doing, and at 13K miles, theirs suddenly straightened out, now is getting 3K miles a quart. So there is hope.

 

But yes, it worries me.

 

I drive this car and every time I drive it, it gets WOT at least once in 2nd gear where safe to do so.

 

Other days, I have deserted safe roads in a rural area nearby I can open it up.

 

I may baby the appearance of the car, but it's gets put through it's paces mechanically for sure.

As it should be. I drive it and enjoy it.

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My buddy's '11 5.0 is spec'd for 5w20 and it burns or loses 3 qts every 5k miles of daily driving. My GT500 (5w50) and daily driver '97 4.6 (5w30) don't lose a drop. I'm not sure what is going on, either. Let us know how it goes with the 5w30.

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Early indications are good. But at 312 miles, it is too early to extrapolate. However, I am burning less oil for sure.

One weird thing though, with the 5W30 in the engine, it is so much quieter that I hear other sounds now that were covered up before, like interior panel rattles and some gear and road noise sounds are enhanced.

 

There is always a trade off when doing things to cars, isn't there?

 

My car is in a heated garage, but when I go for a drive, I give it a two minute warmup because the oil is probably a little thicker and have been shifting at lower RPMs until fully warmed up.

Once fully warmed up, I am not seeing a significant difference in the oil pressure reading at idle.

 

I have always run 95lbs when driving down the road, 5W20 or 5W30.

 

I am beginning to wonder if the oil changes in the past were done with 0W20 rather than 5W20.

If 0W20 was being used, maybe that would explain the oil loss. That's awfully thin.

 

I live in Colorado, and it wouldn't be unusual if the dealer put in 0W20.

I don't know if that is what they put in, the receipts say 5W20.

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I have never heard of a car losing a quart of oil every 1500 miles, that seems very excessive to me. I don't think an oil separator is going to help, they generally catch a teaspoon or two between oil changes, something else is going on to lose oil that quickly.

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I have scoured the net and see a lot of posts on oil consumption in Coyotes similar to mine.

 

I'm not happy about it and I don't have a drive train warranty because of the 624HP Whipple installation.

 

Upping the oil weight thickness is my only option at this point. If the GT Track Pack with stock internals is spec'd for 5W50, I have a couple of weights to try next if the 5W30 is lacking.

 

In my experience with any car I have owned, those cars burned more oil with full synthetic than if blends or dyno oil was used.

I put in full synthetic in this car right away. That was probably a mistake.

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some might say that the piston rings do not seat properly with synthetic oil and should only be used after about 5k.

 

I would doubt if a dealer would mistakenly add 0W-20, if it is a Ford dealer, as I am not aware of any Ford requiring 0W-20 oil. Honda's and possibly Toyota's have 0W but does Ford have any cars/engines that require 0W oil?

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I have 3 vehicles running synthetic oil and none of them use any measurable amount of oil, must be something else unless it has to do with the Coyote design or tolerances. My Mercedes goes at least 15K between changes with synthetic, they start out with synthetic as do many other cars like Corvettes so it shouldn't be a problem with seating rings.

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