jsimmons Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 I've established a tentative (yet realistic) swap start date of July 05. Most of the parts are here, and the motor should be done by the last week of June. We still have to resolve the input shaft issue on the transmission. Right now, the plan is to swap out the XL shaft for the plain Magnum shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Gonna need a spacer between the trans (T56 Magnum XL) and bell housing (QuickTime RM8031), but the throwout bearing lines up correctly with the 7-oclock shifter fork position on the bell housing.. I'm not understanding yet how the clutch line connects to the throwout bearing - Maybe I'm missing a part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 I *was* missing a part. The clutch line connects between various components via quick-disconnect fittings (both the clutch line and the bearing have these male fittings). So, i'm gonna sell the clutch line I bought first, and got a Mcleod kit that also includes a bleeder elbow, as well as adapter fittings that are male quick disconnect on one end, and male -4 AN flares on the other. That makes customizing the length of the line easier (if necessary). Here's a pic of the two lines. Notice that the Mcleod line is also larger - the SR Performance line from American Muscle is -3AN). In the pic you can also see a 90-degree AN fitting on one of the hose ends. I got that so that the line would drop straight down towards the transmission instead of looping from the clutch pedal into the engine compartment. If you want to keep the -3AN line size, you can buy quick disco--to-3AN adapters from summit, and it shouldn't be any harder to make a -3AN line than a -4 AN line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I got the quote back from the waterjet company for the transmission spacer - $658. The CAD work alone cost me $440. I suppose that's part of the price I pay or being a pioneer (evidently, I'm the first person to put a Magnum XL behind a Windsor - in ANY car). If anyone else is interested in doing something similar, I can have a spacer made for you for less than $375 (I have the CAD file, and can have more made anytime I want). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Spacer:I feel a compelling need to polish the outside edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Finally got the call from the machine shop regarding the pushrod size. I ordered them last night, and I'll have them on Monday, so I should have the motor by the end of next week. This means that I can test-fit the headers and my shiney new transmission spacer, bolt on the water pump and pullies and be ready to start the swap by the first weekend of August (assuming the headers don't present any clearance problems). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Engine porn! This was taken a few days ago: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 The engine is ready to be picked up (evil grin). More porn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 :yahoo: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 427 cid Forged internally balanced rotating assembly with H-beam rods AFR 205 heads with 56cc combustion chambers Trickflow Stage 3 hydraulic cam 10.5:1 static compression ratio That's a Air Gap dual plane intake, that will be wearing a 850cfm mech secondary QuickFuel carb. Headers will be Accufab "wide bolt pattern" with 1-3/4 primaries and 3-inch collectors. The whole thing will be followed up with a Tremec Magnum XL 6-speed. I hope it fits under the hood... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Test-fitted the headers and k-member, and measured for hood clearance. It looks like the engine will fit under the hood that I already have. Woot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Start date is all but cast in stone - August 01 (this coming Friday). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Swap, day 01: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Just keeps getting better -- awesome....Wish I could hear it crank up!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 I'll be sure to get it on video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Okay, pics from day 02:Gas pedal - had convert to a throttle cable system, so I started out with a Fox Mustang gas pedal. The holes that mount the Fox pedal are exactly the same as the left side S197 holes.However, when we stuck the pedal on the studs, we found that the pedal is too high and too far to the left, so we fabricated an adapter plate that utilized the factory hole locations, and allowed us to position the Fox pedal in a more favorable location.Here it is mounted in the car, along with the brake/clutch pedal setup we also had to install.After we finished the pedal, we were able to determine where to drill the holes for the Fox (manual transmission) throttle cable.Next, we tried installing the pre-2010 master cylinder reservoir (for the hydraulic clutch). It turns out that the reservoir is too freakin' wide, and prevents the use of the vacuum fitting on the brake booster. I had to order a new reservoir from Ford, but here's a pic with an arrow pointing to where the vacuum fitting should be.Finally, we mounted the crank trigger wheel (from a late model 302 Bronco) and pulley, and attached the alternator bracket and two of the three a/c brackets. I got the wrong front bracket and had to order one from AM for a 351w swap. Arrgg. Here's a pic of the trigger wheel mounted:We had issues getting the transmission in the car, so there are no more pictures from what turned out to be a very long day.I'll be spending the next couple of days (while the shop is closed) stripping the protective wrap from the wiring harness so we can cut away the wiring we don't need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 This is better than the TV shows showing car builds! Y'all Rock!!! But, Grabber still takes more pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 This is better than the TV shows showing car builds! Y'all Rock!!! But, Grabber still takes more pics! Yeah, and there's a lot less drama in the shop than on TV. I would take more pics, but I'm also involved in the putting together of things, so taking a pick is sometimes not exactly at the front of my brain. I'll try to do better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Driveshaft length is 42-1/4 inches - I'm going to cut down my existing aluminum shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Not much to report today. Buttoned up the transmission, re-installed the driver's seat, and found that the passenger side header does in fact clear the bell housing.When we installed the center console panel, we found that the shifter base rubs the driver's side of the trim panel when we try to go into first. I think we're going to grind down a raised boss on the base because it's just barely hitting.Transmission crossmember - we had to drill a whole set of new mounting holes - understandable if you consider that the trans kit is designed to go behind a mod motor instead of a Windsor.The transmission, installed.The throwout bearing (from Exedy) installed. You can see the spacers behind it.The undercarriage.The passenger-side header clears!Today, we're going to start on the exhaust system, and hopefully, the fuel return line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Just picked up on this. Quite the project. Looking forward to seeing build/final results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 I'm ordering the driveshaft today, and we're doing the exhaust right now (building the X-pipe, connecting to collectors, and connecting to existing pipes). We found out we have to relocate the expansion tank because it hits the alternator pulley - bummer. I wanna get an aluminum one, but I want to make sure it's gonna fit in the available space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Added the fitting for the return line to the passenger side fuel hat.I also dropped off the driveshaft, and it should be ready today.We discovered that the radiator expansion tank won't fit where it was originally (the alternator pulley hits it), so we're going to relocate it to be behind the passenger side headlight. Eventually, I'll replace that ugly piece of crap with an aluminum tank.Other cooling stuff - we're using Fox Mustang upper/lower radiator hoses. The upper hose is smaller than the opening on the radiator, but it can be adapted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 Swap Day 07 UpdateDrive shaft is inExhaust is done - headers go out for coating on MondayHeaders prevented "normal" use of dipstick, so we had to be the crap out of the tubeTop and bottom radiator hoses came from a Fox mustangWe moved the radiator a bit farther forward to resolve a clearance issue with the water pump and the fanMounted carburetor and installed linkage. We're having a problem with the throttle cable popping off the throttle ball at full throttle. Gotta think on it someWe had to modify the air cleaner base so that the air cleaner would clear the firewall. This entailed cutting the carb hole out with more material on one end than the other, turning it around, and welding it back into place. Then, we made a "S"-shaped stud to accommodate the offset.We have 5-7 working days before we get the headers back from the coater, and that will give us time to finish running the fuel line, mount the expansion tank, and do the electrical stuff. By the time the headers come back next week, we should be ready to start the engine for the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 That's PRETTY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 I'm awed! Talk about talent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 Update - Day 08Mounted the expansion tank in its new location.Had to fabricate a bracket for it.We also mounted the coil (also on a custom bracket) and the A/C compressor.Finally, I built and installed the plug wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 We got the tee for the lower radiator hose and installed it. I was amazed at the quality of the part. It's a billet piece with no welded-on stuff. Primo gear. All we have left on the cooling system is an overflow hose connection. That should be handled today. The fuel lines have been plumbed. I paid half of the cost of a "Koul Tool" for the shop. This is a vice-like machine that allows you to put a push-lock hoses onto an AN fitting in less than 2 minutes (less than 30 seconds if you have air tools). Believe me when I say that you don't want to be without this tool if you're doing push-lock lines. We're still waiting on an aluminum plug for the fuel pressure regulator, and when we get it (should be today), the fuel system will be done. The shop guy wants to weld a couple of fittings for the fuel pressure gauge, and that should also be happening today. I'm still waiting to hear if we're going to get the headers back today. The schedule for the weekend includes: - Finish up the cooling system- Finish up the fuel system- Finish up A/C compressor install- Install air/fuel gauge in a vent pod- Install the MSD box- Weld O2 sensor bungs into x-pipe- Install headers and x-pipe for the final time- Install TPS sensor on carb- Install temp gauge sensor- Install oil pressure sensor- Start electrical work Another aspect of this swap that I haven't yet mentioned is the work of a tuner to turn a bunch of stuff off, as well as remapping other parameters to allow the ECU to function without blowing its little electronic mind. As I get details, I will write it down for the sanity of those who follow in my footsteps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Swap Update - Day 10: Accomplished: - Finish up A/C compressor install- Install air/fuel gauge in a vent pod - Install headers The lower radiator hose tee installed and connected to expansion tank: The headers came back from the coating shop - $190 including tax. The headers installed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Block was delivered on Friday, and I'm still waiting on the rotating assembly (will be another 1-1/2 weeks before I see that). I also won't see the headers until mid-June because the place I ordered them from waited 10 days (last Thursday) to tell me there was an extra charge and that the header fab wouldn't start until I paid that charge. I now hugely annoyed with Andy's Autosports. In the mean time, I've found a 93 Mustang alternator bracket/tensioner, and determined what starter I'm gonna get. I'm going to mockup the intake/carb/air cleaner later today because - well, I feel a need to play with the parts I have. On a completely unrelated note, I was on my way home yesterday from the shop when I passed a house in my neighborhood. Parked out front, were a 1969 AND 1970 Boss 302s, along with a 1966 GT-350. I braked so hard that I made tire smoke (much to the amusement of the guys that owned the cars), and backed up so I could enter their driveway. The Boss cars were stock (and beautiful). The GT-350 was kinda rough (but was gorgeous in spite of itself), and it had a dual-quad intake (with dual Holley's) on a trans-am (?) intake. While I was sitting there talking to the owners, a guy with a Boss 429 on a trailer pulled in, and we all sat there shooting the breeze for an hour or so. It's been a long time since I was surrounded by that much Ford muscle all at the same time. It was pure heaven. AND YOU DID NOT TAKE PICTURES? Not even with your PHONE? Come on.....I am sure you have some! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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