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Billet Watts Link Installation started - Need Help


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Certain that many of you have done one of the two Fays Links into your cars. Started mine today and instructions are all very detailed and I figure 50% done as I have all in place to do the fine tuning.

 

Biggest question is getting the axle to be centered - 6mm needed. :headscratch: Got suggestions? I have the car sitting on the tires on block netting about 7" lift. Little tight but is working for me. Is there merit to loosening the stabilizer at the links? Suspension really appears tight with weight on the wheels. Not sure if given place to pry it over that I could keep it to lock the axle clamps down.

 

Look forward to the SGT team being able to help.

 

DrKSGT

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DrkSGT,

 

You can take a ratcheting tie down strap and hook it onto the bracket above the jounce stop and then wrap it around the front side of the center section of the diff and back to the bracket . Rachet it down to where the axle assembly is centered ( you can measure the distance between the inner wheel edge to the frame rail where the rear brake hose bracket is mounted - usually around 3 inches on both sides ) . The key thing is to make sure that your watts links are equal in length and are parallel to each other by rotating the clamps ( up/down )and adding shims ( forward / back ) while having the center pivot straight up / down . It won't hurt anything to loosen the stabilizer at the links but I don't feel it will help ( just another thing to be swinging down by your head ).

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Albino500,

Thank you for the details!! :yahoo:

 

I tried multiple Google searches and none of them got into this detail on how to move it. All forums seemed more interested in details of the viable part changes you do with lowering the car. Adjustable panhard bar would have been more like a 30 minute change even if replacing the bracket.

 

I have been working to get the bars equalized, parallel, and angled to permissible fore/aft condition. Having axle centered has been limiting detail. Just have to go buy a tie down strap - missing piece in my tool box.

 

Will update later.

 

DrKSGT

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Certain that many of you have done one of the two Fays Links into your cars. Started mine today and instructions are all very detailed and I figure 50% done as I have all in place to do the fine tuning.

 

Biggest question is getting the axle to be centered - 6mm needed. :headscratch: Got suggestions? I have the car sitting on the tires on block netting about 7" lift. Little tight but is working for me. Is there merit to loosening the stabilizer at the links? Suspension really appears tight with weight on the wheels. Not sure if given place to pry it over that I could keep it to lock the axle clamps down.

 

Look forward to the SGT team being able to help.

 

DrKSGT

 

Sorry, just saw this post now! Call me if I can help (I've done a bunch of these installs).

 

 

Jer

702 405 3500

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Jer,

No problem that you did not catch this right away, there are so many things you handle to keep things running so much better than we had in the past. Albino500's suggestion worked well after a second attempt that got the tie down out of the way to work one of the actions.

 

I am not done as I only get time to work after 8:00 my time. Certain I can complete now. Could use opinion on angles not being exact to each other - I am within 0.3 degrees on the watts bars? Process of tightening the axle brackets always results in some movement at the rod end. Being detailed as I am I would like exact but there is a time to stop and get driving again.

 

Jim Fay has been very good in responding to questions. He appears to work all hours of the day supporting customers.

 

DrKSGT

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Slightly loosen the clamp - tap the bracket up/down as needed - make a witness mark on the bracket and axle tube - torque down nuts in a cross pattern - watch witness marks - tighten all nuts - witness mark all connections - release strap - take final measurements - drop and drive .

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