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Replacing wheel studs


JT93
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Before I hit the track this weekend at Gingerman its come to my attention that I need to replace a couple stripped studs (thanks tire shop! :banghead: ). I've changed studs before, they were the type you use a hammer to knock the old out and then use a lug and wrench to seat the new. Is the SGT set-up the same way? I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into before I start tomorrow night.

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You can get away with that method on the rears but don't do it on the fronts. The best thing for you to do is buy the FRPP front hubs w/long ARP studs ( M-1104-A ) , the rear ARP studs ( M-1107-B ) , and the open end lug nuts to go with them ( 4 sets of M-1012-G ) Steve @ Tousley Ford has the best price . JMO for ya JT !

 

P.S. the FRPP front hubs are lighter and have a better bearing in them than the stock units - if you have sticky tires you should have these on your car !

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Stronger studs , better bearing , lighter weight ( slightly smaller in diameter ) and can handle the additional loads that come with sticky tires . I have seen stock and even some aftermarket wheel studs break/snap off due to heat cycling and/or high side loads and even from not having a hub centric wheels or even from hard braking ( mostly do to heat ).

 

P.S. - wheel lug nut torque is 85 - 105 ft/lbs.

Edited by Albino500
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Albino, I've run across those in the parts bins but wasn't sure how much lighter they are.... any idea? Its always my philosophy that weight reduction isn't a matter of pounds, its a matter of ounces.

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Stronger studs , better bearing , lighter weight ( slightly smaller in diameter ) and can handle the additional loads that come with sticky tires . I have seen stock and even some aftermarket wheel studs break/snap off due to heat cycling and/or high side loads and even from not having a hub centric wheels or even from hard braking ( mostly do to heat ).

 

P.S. - wheel lug nut torque is 85 - 105 ft/lbs.

 

 

 

Hmmmmmm! kind of a coincidence this comes up now. The other day while washing I found a right front stud snapped at the wheel. Not stripped, clean threads, and

 

never overtorqued, (at least not since I've owned her @4300 miles). I've never had that happen before. I replaced the one stud with an OEM from the stealership

 

because it was fast, easy, and most imortantly cheap, but I'll have to think about the FRPP hubs!

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I( don't run the larger studs. I have thought about changing but, it limits wheel choice. I have never had a wheel stud fail. Remember, never torque a wheel when hot, they will break. I definitely recommend the FR hubs

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I'm definitely going to be in the market for different hubs and studs this winter, but being in a time crunch for this weekend I'm going to have to replace with the OEM stuff. It's only two studs anyway, I don't have the time to change out the hubs. I did use this as a reason to need the upgraded hubs and studs though, anything that is lighter AND stronger/safer is an easy sell... B)

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I'm definitely going to be in the market for different hubs and studs this winter, but being in a time crunch for this weekend I'm going to have to replace with the OEM stuff. It's only two studs anyway, I don't have the time to change out the hubs. I did use this as a reason to need the upgraded hubs and studs though, anything that is lighter AND stronger/safer is an easy sell... B)

 

 

Well, from what the parts guy at the dealership told me ('cause I asked out of curiosity) the GT and GT500 studs are the same for the fronts. The replacement was a simple "tap out the old stud and suck in the new one with a lug nut" operation

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OK , JT if you are going to do that, since you have to take off the caliper and mount bracket in order to get to the back side of the hub to put the stud through the hole , then take and slide off the rotor and flip it so you can use it as a plate and use the nut to pull it through . This way you will have less of a chance in distorting the hub area around the stud ( also try to line up the splines on the new stud with where the old one went as to not open up the hole ). The front hub material is much easier to distort and cause side to side run out than the rear axle flange ( although I've seen people do both and then have tire/wheel with excessive side to side movement ) and complain about vibration issues . Also , if you are going in this far to change a stud -all you have to do to change the hub is to pop off the cap and take off the front bearing nut to change the hub itself ( the FRPP hubs come with new cage nuts - since they tell you that they are a one time use item ) and pull . The torque on the nut is 221 ft/lbs.

 

P.S. - JT leave the wheel bolted on when you drive out the broken off stud so you have the least likeliness to distort the hub - just don't smack the wheel !

Edited by Albino500
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  • 4 weeks later...

I( don't run the larger studs. I have thought about changing but, it limits wheel choice. I have never had a wheel stud fail. Remember, never torque a wheel when hot, they will break. I definitely recommend the FR hubs

 

So, I just replaced mine. I gotta quit telling you guys what I don't do, seems I just go do it then

 

Front hubs replaced and rear studs installed,

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  • 1 month later...

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