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Car Club Open Track Days Trunk Goodies


Kevin Patten

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Most folks here go to open track ( road course ) events and drive the same car to/from the track that they drive on the track so I thought that it would be nice to share what you bring to the track with you as far as being able to work on the car if needed . Our cars seem to go through brakes , tires , and gas . I'm organizing some things right now to put in my trunk for my next road trip from San Jose , Calif. to Portland International Raceway ( 700 miles each way ) to do an open track event and then onto Washington to Grabberfest (7th annual ) . I run the same wheel and tire set up on all 4 corners and have a full size spare mounted in the trunk . I bought a plastic tote container and I have a portable air tank which fit in the trunk on top of the spare and still leaves me room for a helmet /gloves/driving shoes bag , 2 folding chairs , small cooler , blanket , backpack , gallon jug of water and a suitcase ( without having to fold down the back seats ). In the tote container I bring ;

 

1) Small racing floor jack

2) mechanic's gloves

3) 13/16" deep - 1/2" drive socket ( for the lug nuts )

4) 1/2" drive 3" extension

5) 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar

6) 1/2" drive torque wrench

7) tire pressure gauge

8) kneeling pad

9) duct tape

10) 2 jack stands ( and plywood squares to sit them on )

11) 1 quart of engine oil

12) funnel

13) rags

14) spare set of brake pads ( fronts and rears )

15) bottle of brake fluid

16) 11mm & 13mm 6 point combo wrenches

17) 3/32" pin punch

18) small hammer

19) long screwdriver ( to spread the pads )

20) a rear brake pad retracting tool with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter

21) silicone

22) zip ties

 

 

I feel that these items will allow me to take on/off the wheels , change brake pads and/or bleed the brakes if needed so I can get down the road . I know that I can't cover everything but it covers the basics for what gets abused at the track . You can amaze yourself with what can be done with silicone , duct tape and zip ties when you're out on the road .

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Track Checklist

Note: Many of these things don't apply to a person in a street car, so don't worry about it if you don't have a neck brace, for instance.

Required

  • Helmet! - a very bad (and easy) thing to forget
  • Tech form - Important
  • Car Numbers – required on both sides of the car and rear, a minimum of eight inches high (we will have racer’s tape available at the track for this purpose)
  • Cotton or Nomex clothing ONLY. No leather or synthetics allowed.

 

Highly Recommended (not strictly required)

  • Tow hook installed or tow point established
  • Driving Suit or long sleeve cotton shirt and cotton pants (although we allow short sleeve shirts and shorts, it is highly discouraged and potentially harmful in the case of an accident)
  • Fire Extinguisher
  • Extra Brake pads
  • Brake fluid
  • Drinking Water (Speed Ventures provides water but just in case we run out…)
  • Engine Oil - bring a quart or two, just in case
  • Hat - for Sun
  • Sunglasses
  • Sun Screen
  • Folding chair

 

Optional

  • Duct tape
  • Distilled Water - Radiator
  • EZ-UP Canopy - Ideally there would be one for every 4 cars or so, because the sun can be brutal. Hopefully everyone who has one will bring one (and it makes you very popular too).
  • Windex - You will kill many bugs on your way to the track.
  • Brake Bleeder line
  • Racing Neck Brace
  • Racing shoes
  • Camera
  • Hose Clamps
  • Jack
  • Jack stands
  • Jumper Cables
  • Service manual
  • Torque wrench
  • Other tools (sockets, wrenches, pliers...)
  • Grease
  • Hand Soap
  • Ice chest
  • Map/directions/phone number of hotel
  • Map/directions/phone number of track
  • Paper Towels
  • Rags
  • Run Flat aerosol cans
  • Tie Wraps
  • Stopwatch
  • Race tires
  • Spare tire - you never know
  • Tire pump
  • Tire pressure gauge
  • Tire pyrometer
  • Flashlight
  • Funnel for oil
  • Gloves – disposable

This is the list I use. It's from SpeedVentures...

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Great list-

 

I had the same challenge packing when I went to the 50th bash and ran at Pahrump-

I drove down on a set of Hawk HP+'s then changed to street pads after the track day.

 

Just in case you forget something I got your back-

I will have my trailer with extra tools, floor jack, ramps and supplies on hand.

 

It's coming up real soon :)

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Great list-

 

I had the same challenge packing when I went to the 50th bash and ran at Pahrump-

I drove down on a set of Hawk HP+'s then changed to street pads after the track day.

 

Just in case you forget something I got your back-

I will have my trailer with extra tools, floor jack, ramps and supplies on hand.

 

It's coming up real soon :)

Thanks Kerry

 

and that brings up another good point - it's always better when you have friends at the track with you than being a lone wolf ! GOOD TIMES ! :grouphug:

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This is a great list. My only addition is what I learned moving to the East Coast (where it is race rain

or shine) from California (where it is race shine or shine). So now I bring a bunch of heavy duty plastic

contractor bags. If it looks like there is a hint of rain, I put all those goodies in the bags. Worked

great at the Summit Point/Carlisle event this year.

 

I do have a side question since you mention jack stands. I've read different things and have placed them

where I think it makes sense, but is there a consensus on a specific location front or back?

 

Tom

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I take 2 aluminum ones and 2 plywood squares that I cut to fit under them ( most tracks want you to use wood under the stand so it won't sink into the paddock blacktop ) . I have a puck with a slice in it to jack up the side at the pinchwell ( won't fold over the seam ) and place the jack stand under where the notches are on the seam where the factory jack points are . Some times I'll just jack under the differential if I just want to raise just the rear or if I'm doing a front brake pad change I'll jack at the factory point and do one side at a time ( placing the stand next to the jack to catch it if the jack leaks down ) . These methods may not follow the factory recommendations but they work for me . As far as my race car ( SGT SPEC MUSTANG ) goes I have welded in a 1" box tubing that runs along the full length of the pinch well ( front wheel well to rear wheel well ) and I can jack any wheres along that to quick lift the side of the car . The previous owner of the SGT must of had a garage that jacked up under the front subframe because the area at the back bolts of the subframe was collapsed so bad I could not even put in the SPP reinforcement plates . Some day I may go back in and drop the front subframe and thread in a slide hammer ( and heat up the area ) to pull it back in place - then weld in the plates. Good suggestion on the bags - I think I'll throw some in the box since I'm going to Oregon/Washington this weekend ( I hear that it has a tendency to rain up there )

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Ok, so about your car.......

 

From MVP (with remarks)

 

Brakes and Fluid:
Your brake system should be in good working order with no
leaks. Brake lines are often made of rubber and rubber degrades over time. Make sure your
lines have no cracks. A good set of DOT approved braided steel brake lines go a long way to pedal feel.
Fluid should be new throughout the brake system (also, go for a higher temp fluid, DOT 4). I've seen clean brake fluid in the reservoir
only to help owners bleed the old fluid from the lines. Boiling brakes are not fun at speed, you may find yourself pointed in a direction that, without the brakes, can lead to extensive and expensive pain. A brake fluid flush is inexpensive and
can save your life. Brake pads need to be at least 50%. (I recommend changing pads prior to tracking. You can always change between street and race pads) Like the tires, these are the only
things truly stopping your car. Talk to others with similar cars and track experience to determine what may work for your
car. Brake lights need to be properly functioning as well.
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I thought it might be good to bring up that some organizations require that helmets have not only a Snell rating but also request a minimum date stamp - so it's always best to check prior to entering into an event . The same goes for clothing - aka - long sleeve shirt , long leg pants , gloves , close toe shoes , and clothing material type . It's never a smart idea to drive in shorts and sandals while on the track . I might also add that in open track driving one should be hydrating oneself starting 3 days prior to and including the day of the event . JMO

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Devising a way to run a cable with padlock through your spare tire, tool boxes, jacks, air tanks, etc. adds a little security against theft while your driving.

I wish that I could say that isn't necessary but we live in a time where as I must agree - better safe than sorry . :( even at the track it's been known to happen .

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Very helpful list.... Although definitely one of the reasons why I have not had my car on the track (yet). When we used to head to the track with the bikes, the main expense was tires of which a good set of Michelin slicks is about the same cost of one rear tire for a GT 500. Track days with cars is a far more expensive proposition. I'll get out there one day soon I hope.

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One item I bought after seeing another driver with it was a Craftsman 19.2V cordless air compressor. I already had the Craftsman tools and batteries though so this was a no-brainer. It takes up little to no room and also has a digital gauge which is handy as a reference. I also bought the Craftsman 19.2V 1/2" drive impact gun which works great for removing and installing lug nuts.

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You can also get a trailer that just holds tires. Looks funny going down the highway though...

I've lost track of a photo showing an apparatus that mounts in the hitch receiver and suspends the set of wheels/tires above the trunk - no trailer on the ground. I saw one on a Miata at a Pro-Solo event. Might not be bad for local hauls, but if you need something from the trunk, it looks to me as if you have to unload and reload tire-by-tire.

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One item I bought after seeing another driver with it was a Craftsman 19.2V cordless air compressor. I already had the Craftsman tools and batteries though so this was a no-brainer. It takes up little to no room and also has a digital gauge which is handy as a reference. I also bought the Craftsman 19.2V 1/2" drive impact gun which works great for removing and installing lug nuts.

I must be getting lazy - I picked one up yesterday also. Let's hope that I can remember to charge the batteries .

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