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Front sway bar end link mod issue - suggestions?


barspen

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I just installed a set of Stallion Suspension front sway bar adjustable end links. Install went fairly smooth (I'll posted about it later).

 

During my first test drive, the car seems to drift to the right after a few seconds of lifting my hands from the wheel. Seem like its out of alignment, but I didn't think this mod would do anything to the alignment.

 

I measured the links (under load) and they are very close to the same length. Bolts are torqued to 80ft-lbs.

 

Any suggestions for troubleshooting? I called product tech support, but this issue has not been reported before.

 

FWIW, other than the drifting issue, the front end feels great with the new links.

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I believe that what you want to do is, with the car loaded and level put the bar where you want it. Then adjust one end link to slide into the sway bar hole and bolt it up. Without moving anything, do the same thing on the other side. Now there is no preload on the bar, you should be set. This eliminates any preload that may be caused by production tolerances in the bar or the mounting bushings.

 

Then again, if that's what you did, I don't have a suggestion.

 

Steve

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^ ^ +1

Try adjusting the links in one direction or the other.

The sway bar end with the holes that connect to the link should be level with the ground in which ever position you have your sway bar set.

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Thanks for the input and ideas.

 

The car was on front end ramps when I made the final adjustments. I tried to 1) match the sway bar to the chassis lines to ensure it was level 2) Make sure both ends were the same length.

 

This is one of those jobs that would be a piece of cake with a real lift and is a bit of a PITA with ramps and jacks, IMHO. (The wife said 'ixnay on the rampnay' I-need-a-real-lift gargare upgrade idea :salute:).

 

I did loosen the driver side sway bar bushing bolts to give some extra play when removing/installing the new links. I did not do this on the passenger side. My theory...after lunch, cooling down and tipping a few beers...If the driver side bushing is not tightened to spec, it could cause the car to veer right since the passenger side was not messed with and is 'solid'. Just a thought. :shrug:

 

I will let you know what happens tomorrow morning when I brave the Phoenix summer Monsoon again.

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Barry,

Take the end links off and see if your sway bar rotates freely up/down . If it does - great - if it does not - then you need to unbolt the sway bar frame mounts and remove the sway bar from the car . Go for a drive - verify that the car does NOT DRIFT with NO SWAY BAR . If it drifts - you have another problem - if NO DRIFT then let's fix the issue . If the issue is indeed the sway bar / links then let's first address the binding of the sway bar in it's frame bushings . You may have bonded bushings - if you do then you will have to remove the frame mount bushings from the bar . You will have to spread the tabs and pull apart the bracket and then cut the bushing off of the bar ( if you do this neatly/cleanly with a razor blade you will be able to save the bushing and reuse them ). If not you will have to go down to the auto parts store and buy replacement frame mount bushings /brackets ( Energy Suspension or Prothane will work fine ) Measure your sway bar diameter so you can get the proper size . Clean the surface area on the sway bar where the frame bushings are located and apply some grease then wrap the area with a (1 or 2 @ max ) layers of white teflon tape . Take and apply a coating of synthetic grease to the ID of the frame bushings and place them over the taped areas . Put on the clamps/brackets and bolt the sway bar back on the car . tighten the frame mount bolts and then check to see if the sway bar rotates freely ( NOT LOOSELY ) If it does - great - if not then you are going to have to shim the mount brackets with washers . If using the factory brackets -the washers go between the flat bracket and the u curved one , if using an aftermarket -then the washers go on the studs connected to the frame and the bracket . Shim until you can make the sway bar rotate by hand once the nuts are tightened ( make sure that you have an equal amount on the left as you do the right / also on the top stud as you have on the bottom stud . Once that you have a sway bar which is not in bind then we can talk about hooking up the end links . I'll wait until you get to this point .

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Barry,

Take the end links off and see if your sway bar rotates freely up/down . If it does - great - if it does not - then you need to unbolt the sway bar frame mounts and remove the sway bar from the car . Go for a drive - verify that the car does NOT DRIFT with NO SWAY BAR . If it drifts - you have another problem - if NO DRIFT then let's fix the issue . If the issue is indeed the sway bar / links then let's first address the binding of the sway bar in it's frame bushings . You may have bonded bushings - if you do then you will have to remove the frame mount bushings from the bar . You will have to spread the tabs and pull apart the bracket and then cut the bushing off of the bar ( if you do this neatly/cleanly with a razor blade you will be able to save the bushing and reuse them ). If not you will have to go down to the auto parts store and buy replacement frame mount bushings /brackets ( Energy Suspension or Prothane will work fine ) Measure your sway bar diameter so you can get the proper size . Clean the surface area on the sway bar where the frame bushings are located and apply some grease then wrap the area with a (1 or 2 @ max ) layers of white teflon tape . Take and apply a coating of synthetic grease to the ID of the frame bushings and place them over the taped areas . Put on the clamps/brackets and bolt the sway bar back on the car . tighten the frame mount bolts and then check to see if the sway bar rotates freely ( NOT LOOSELY ) If it does - great - if not then you are going to have to shim the mount brackets with washers . If using the factory brackets -the washers go between the flat bracket and the u curved one , if using an aftermarket -then the washers go on the studs connected to the frame and the bracket . Shim until you can make the sway bar rotate by hand once the nuts are tightened ( make sure that you have an equal amount on the left as you do the right / also on the top stud as you have on the bottom stud . Once that you have a sway bar which is not in bind then we can talk about hooking up the end links . I'll wait until you get to this point .

Great advice...THX!

 

I will check the sway bar rotation tomorrow. If needed, I already have new Prothane bushing from an FRPP kit when I upgraded the rear links. Sway bar is stock.

 

I was hoping this would be a 2-4 hour mod, but looks like I have a little more work. :drop:

 

I will update the thread tomorrow...again, appreciate the feedback and advice.

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I just finished re-checking my work this morning.

- The driver side sway bar bushing bolts were not torqued well...it was pretty tight, but had some extra room before it got to 52ft-lbs. Also loosened and torqued the passenger side bushing to make sure they were the same.

- I measured the new endlinks using the stockers to make sure they were equal to the original length and matched on both sides. They were off a bit.

- Checked tire pressure just in case that was exaggerating the issue. Backs were the same, front was .5 PSI off


Took it for a test drive 3 times in two different areas and noticed an improvement . :happy feet:

At lower speed, the drifting seems gone. Cruising at higher speed (60+) or acceleration (45+) there does seem to be a slight pull. Also notice that the car pulled much harder in certain locations, which I believe is a factor of the road angle (that's why I tried a couple different routes this time).


I'm not convinced I don't have an alignment or tread wear issue. I think the sway bar link mod may have added to the noticeable drift\pull.


I'm due for an oil change in the next week. I'll plan to have the shop do an alignment check for sanity sake. Otherwise, I will keep watching it next week when I put some commuter miles on. If the issue gets worse, I will get a little more aggressive with troubleshooting. Trying to avoid the bushing swap until it cools down a bit in Phoenix.


Thanks again for the guidance!

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Barry,

When you decide to go back in ( if you do ) . I have noted that you have put lowering springs on the car . With that being the case , once that you know that the sway bar is NOT in bind , you want to put one end link on and adjust the length to where the link is perpendicular to the sway bar ( while the vehicle is loaded / on the ground and the wheels facing straight ahead .) then install the second one , adjust to length so there is NO binding/twisting of the bar and then lock down the jam nuts on the links . Once this is done then go back and loosen ( not remove ) the frame mount nuts and allow the frame bushing mount brackets to self center . Check your links for freedom of twist and then retorque / tighten the frame mount bracket nuts . Make sure that you keep the wheels pointed in the straight ahead position ALL the TIME that you're doing this ( because the link is mounted on the top to the bracket welded to the side of the strut and if the wheels are pointed to one side then the length and angle will be thrown off and cause a bind when the wheels are in the straight ahead position which can cause a drift ) . If you find that your drift is an alignment issue - you will probably have to buy caster/camber plates because the caster angle can not be adjusted from factory and caster is the angle you adjust to compensate for road crown . Vehicle will drift to the side with the least amount of caster . Most shops will place a .5 to .75 degree spread in caster to compensate for road crown . A shift in the belts of the tire and/or tires can cause a drift or even a pull . The simple check for tire influence is to swap the front tires side to side and then see if the drift / pull then goes the other direction - if it does - it's in the tires - if not - then another factor is the source of the drift and/or a pull . There is a difference between a drift and a pull .

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Thanks Jim - HIH

Most jobs/mods on these cars are pretty simple - it's just knowing what to look for when you're doing them in order to get the results you expect from spending hard earned money. Paying attention to detail goes a long way in being satisfied with doing a job ( or even paying someone to do it ) and getting the most from what is done . JMO

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Albino

 

I changed the front sway bar bushing out today...What a remarkable difference! I did a small write up on another thread (http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/83823-poly-bushing-sway-bars-worth-it/).

 

I went back and re-read this thread and the binding issue you describe was spot-on. The stock bushing gave absolutely zero range of motion to the front sway bar.

 

Getting poly bushing installed made a night and day difference in hard corners. Really hope this helps with massive understeer issues at the track.

 

Switching from rubber to poly bushings\endlinks is one of those easy, cost effective upgrades that has a big impact on these cars.

 

THX again! Really appreciate your help on this.

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Nice write up Barry - it's hard to believe that Ford glues the frame mount bushings onto the bar but they do on the 2011-14 models. I agree it's simple to fix and surprising on the difference. Enjoy the Ride ! Glad I could help - thanks for sharing.

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