Reddevil64 Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I have a '07 GT500 with 12K miles. The only performance mods are exhaust (part of a 40th upgrade), pulley/idler and cold air. Recently, when downshifting from 6th to 4th (usually to pass) the clutch 1st seemed to be slipping and on a separate day 2nd made a noise I've never heard before. The only problems I've had in regard to the clutch have been when jamming gears, 2nd is hard to get. Now 4th is acting up. This has only happened the two times listed above. I don't drive the car a lot and I am worried that I will get stranded somewhere or really jack up the transmission. I have read a few of the threads about people swapping out the clutch assemblies for the 2010 versions. I guess that's an option, I certainly don't want to have to replace the clutch every 12K miles by staying with the original equipment. When reading one of the TSB's I saw where they say to replace the input shaft and the syncros but in the threads about swapping out for the 2010 clutch and flywheel, there was no mention about the input shaft and syncros? Just trying to figure out what to do and/or what to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reddevil64 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Can a brother get some help around here? I see 60 people have viewed my post but no replies? The clutch is definitely slipping, I only notice it in the upper gears though. I have never raced the car, have I done burnouts - of course, some on purpose! Anyway, 2010 Ford GT500 Clutch? Spec SS?? McLeod??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 The TSB tells you how to test the syncros to see if they have been damaged. The 2010 clutch is a great set up. Read my threads on it and all the info is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reddevil64 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Thanks for the reply Grabber. I have read and read and read! The frustrating part is there are people who have good and bad stories on every kind of clutch setup. My initial thought was to stick with Ford but then I see a lot of people going with the Spec setup or the Mcleod. I can't seem to find what the 2010 Ford clutch is rated for. I know the 2010 GT500 is rated at 540 hp and I would hope that Ford would put in a clutch that was rated above the 540 hp just to be safe. My car was dyno tested when I had the 40th package done (I also had the pulley / idler replaced and a cold air intake installed) anyway, it dyno'd at 546, it doesn't really say if it's RWHP but I assume it is. If everything I'm reading is correct, that puts the crank hp around 640. So my concern with the Ford is that I'll be doing this again in 15-20K miles. I'm really not hard on the car, it has never been on a track or the strip. I beat on it a little when it was new but that's what this car is supposed to be all about. Anyway, not trying to whine too much here, just disappointed, I guess it's like anything else, the more expensive the toy, the more expensive it is to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlneece Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Not sure what answer(s) you are looking for but certainly dont want you feeling neglected or ignored. Your problems that you briefly described in your opening statement seem consistent with the issues associated with the clutch problem which plagues or will plague all the 07, 08 and part of the 09 owners of the GT500. Grabber is correct in that the test outlined in the TSB is very simple but confirming with regards to potential issues with the synchonizer and other internals. If you have not followed this procedure, I suggest you do that first. Assuming that your problems are limited to clutch related issues, then your options are very much a personal choice. Since Ford (God bless them) has decided to abandon the vast majority of the stakeholders with this problem, if you are like me then your opinion is that I would never look to someone that left me stranded to give me a solution for keeping me moving. I love Shelby's but Ford's approach to this is borderline criminal and certainly unacceptable a manufacturer of their stature. While there have been compassionate dealers out their who have helped a large number of problem holders, the overall face of Ford has been a disgrace. I am personally experiencing your same problem and am halfway through a change to the Mcleod RXT clutch. I have heard that the Spec clutch solution is every bit as good. Personal opinions on who or which is better abound. Do your homework but my suggestion is that you follow the path of a company like these that specialize in making sure your clutch does what it is supposed to do when you want it. You can certainly look at other avenues but why would you trust your investment to someone who wasnt as serious about it as you? As an engineer by trade, I have a 500 Hp car and I want a 1000 Hp clutch but I spend the vast majority of time making sure safety and operation are not sacrificed by half hearted attempts to barely meet the requirements or because this or that was cheaper or more economical. Cost differences can and do indicate quality differences very often. When you spent in the neighborhood of 40-50K, are you really going to quibble over a couple hundred dollar solution, especially if it means the difference between a sweet ride and a paperweight in the garage? I am in the process of the clutch change now. I will let you know how it turns out but I am excited to put the car back on the road terrorizing the local "fast boy" wantabes. Good luck with your decisions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reddevil64 Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Thanks jlneece, I appreciate the response. I have not made a decision yet. I get what you're saying about not trusting someone who left you stranded in the first place but on the other hand, keeping Ford with a Ford is my initial knee jerk reaction. I need to find out what the 2010 clutch is rated for, if it's not at least 700hp, I'll go with the Spec. I have a friend that has the Stage 3+ in his car (it has a bow tie) and he has been happy with it. I think if I go the Spec route, it will be the Super Twin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest markham51 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 I had Sea Thanks jlneece, I appreciate the response. I have not made a decision yet. I get what you're saying about not trusting someone who left you stranded in the first place but on the other hand, keeping Ford with a Ford is my initial knee jerk reaction. I need to find out what the 2010 clutch is rated for, if it's not at least 700hp, I'll go with the Spec. I have a friend that has the Stage 3+ in his car (it has a bow tie) and he has been happy with it. I think if I go the Spec route, it will be the Super Twin. I I I Thanks jlneece, I appreciate the response. I have not made a decision yet. I get what you're saying about not trusting someone who left you stranded in the first place but on the other hand, keeping Ford with a Ford is my initial knee jerk reaction. I need to find out what the 2010 clutch is rated for, if it's not at least 700hp, I'll go with the Spec. I have a friend that has the Stage 3+ in his car (it has a bow tie) and he has been happy with it. I think if I go the Spec route, it will be the Super Twin. I have the 725HP 2007 Super Snake. I replaced the clutch with the 2010 version and it works really nicely. It feels like the one the car should have come with initially, it has that "NEW CAR feel" a nice smooth lighter peddle action and I haven't had any issues. Everyone has their opinion. The new Ford version was recommended to me by the shop that builds Shelbys in Canada... they will install other versions as well if requested...but recommended I go with the Ford all things considered (I don't race, but do like to have "fun"). The net/net, im a very satisfied customer at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frydguy79 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 if your spending your own money to swap the clutch, do the RXT, and enjoy it, if you can sweet talk a dealer into doing a tsb or a upgrade let them do it, but i had the tsb done to my car a couple 3 times, before they came out with the 2010 upgrade tsb, and i finally spent my own money and fixed the problem once and for all and it was MONEY WELL SPENT... dont waste your money on any other clutch brand.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glroy Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 The clutch and the transmission are the week link in these cars. The 2010 clutch will support stock HP and give good drive ability (lots of folks here like it). 766 RWHP and the 2010 clutch= about a week of clutch life. My 07 in less than 25K one original and one TSB toast. One spec clutch 35K and working fine and no chater ever. Transmission well you can replace the synchros or try the carbon fiber ones or just by the Magnum XL and not have to worry about it again. Pull the trans install a used clutch might as well use the old CSC you will be back in there soon enough. Put a new clutch in and a new slave : don't spend 5$ to save 1$ been there done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reddevil64 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 Thanks for the input everyone. I have decided to go with the 2010 Ford upgrade. I'll repost after it's put in and have a few hundred miles on it. Not exactly sure when that's going to happen but hopefully in the next couple of months. I am still able to drive the car so it's not super urgent but the fun factor is way down at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted June 20, 2013 Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 I had Sea I I I I have the 725HP 2007 Super Snake. I replaced the clutch with the 2010 version and it works really nicely. It feels like the one the car should have come with initially, it has that "NEW CAR feel" a nice smooth lighter peddle action and I haven't had any issues. Everyone has their opinion. The new Ford version was recommended to me by the shop that builds Shelbys in Canada... they will install other versions as well if requested...but recommended I go with the Ford all things considered (I don't race, but do like to have "fun"). The net/net, im a very satisfied customer at this point. Mike installed the 13` clutch & he just loves could be true what you said they should have come with that clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reddevil64 Posted July 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Well, put the 2010 clutch and flywheel in the car last weekend. Quite a job even with all the tools, lift and transmission jack. The hardest part was getting the tranny out, putting it back in was a snap compared to taking it out. Anyway, replaced the clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, pilot bearing, high pressure line and the transmission fluid. I went ahead and did the Royal Purple trans fluid. Everything is working great so far. The clutch pedal feel is a lot softer and grabs a lot quicker which takes a little getting used to but I think I'll like it better the more I drive it. There are a couple of things you need to know if you're going to do it yourself besides all the stuff that Grabber has posted (which is extremely helpful) and I think he may have mentioned this in one of the posts, anyway, you need an alignment tool. I didn't do my homework on that issue and bought a universal one at NAPA at the last minute. It didn't work. Luckily the very good friend who helped me, has a Corvette that has the same transmission (Tremec 26 spline) and had an alignment tool for his car that we used. The part that goes into the pilot bearing was smaller so we wrapped tape around it until it fit the hole - worked like a charm. The other possible thing that could have caused a problem was getting the old pilot bearing out. There is a tool for that too, we didn't have one. Again my friend came to the rescue, get a large bolt slightly smaller than the opening in the pilot bearing, get a heavy hammer, get some toilet paper and get some water. Soak a small amount of toilet paper in the water and shove it into the hole, insert the bolt and smack it with the heavy hammer, repeat this 5-6 times and the pilot bearing will pop right out, it took less than 2 minutes. The 500mi break-in period seems like a long time to wait especially since I don't drive the car all that much but I will wait the designated time/mileage before I give it the real test and post the results. Thanks for all the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingram4868 Posted July 30, 2013 Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 I admire your ability to do this type of work yourself. The new clutch parts transform the car to a very enjoyable ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moncho Posted July 30, 2013 Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 Congrats! Just got mine done ('10 clutch install) and so far very pleased with it. Best of luck! Cheers, Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tob Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Did you get anything else done when you installed your clutch Ray? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moncho Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Hello Tob, Well I did get something else done but not while it was in the shop. Second item on my sig and I got you to thank for that! Cheers my friend. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunters1 Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Had simular issues as Reddevil. Went with Mcleod RXT clutch, new pilot bearing etc.. rather than chase the TSP's. Grabber was extremely helpful. Thought I hit a home run as the car was very compliant. Then put 3.73 gears in and more importantly had the TracLok rebuilt with ceramic clutches. Now we're talking. The car is where it should have been out of the factory. Fays2 goes on in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old school Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Mcleod RXT going in this week,,,,original TSB Clutch lasted from 16,000 miles to 39,000 and is toast.Hopefully the weather holds & I get enough good days this winter to break it in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old school Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 McLeod RXT Clutch now broken in with Around 600 miles on the installation. Great Pedal feel, smooth shifting, no chatter,quiet gearbox now also with the Royal Purple. calling for a little snow tomorrow but should be back into the 50's next week..not putting it away until we get dumped on with snow !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old school Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 So much for it going into the 50's this week.....more Snow & a high in the 20's on Weds,gotta wait for the roads to clear up now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reddevil64 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Well, it's been quite a while and still don't have very many miles on the new clutch, I'm over the 500 mile mark though and have one chance to test it a little bit. No problems, feels great. I am still having problems with 2nd gear on hard shifts, I am starting to think it is pilot error. A friend told me I may have a bent shift fork but seems unlikely since there are so few miles on the car, I suppose it's not really a question of miles though. The fun factor is back and I am thankful for all the advice from everyone. Here's to letting a little smoke roll off of the Michelins!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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