6f09 Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I am thinking of having my "all" stock '07 sgt 33k miles dyno tuned , the dyno shop said they could get me 15hp/tq, for $350,00 what would be the down side> :hard starting when hot mpg etc,,, thanks jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbytexan Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 If you can get 15 h.p. for 350.00 , then that's cheap. There's nothing else you can put on your car and get that kind of h.p. for the money including a canned tune.I guess the down side is anytime you put your car on an dyno you risk blowing it up because of the high rpm's but how do you expect to get a new motor,' thinking coyote here' if you don't lol.Good-Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I'm guessing also that the "15 hp" is going to mean a 93 octane fuel requirement as well $$$$$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I've never been able to feel 15 hp increases. To me, not worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank S Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 If they are competent tuners the HP and TQ numbers might be the least important things they can do; however, if you are satisfied with throttle response and transitions behavior, you could likely find a better place to dispose of your money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted May 20, 2013 Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 15 hp is a total waste of money for $350. 15 hp on a Harley - now that would be a deal. You'll never notice the difference on the SGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted May 20, 2013 Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 If they are competent tuners the HP and TQ numbers might be the least important things they can do; however, if you are satisfied with throttle response and transitions behavior, you could likely find a better place to dispose of your money. That's it in a nutshell. A talented tuner can improve driveability, etc... so HP is not the only goal. Also, there are a few easy mods you can do at the same time to make the overall project worth it - underdrive pullies, etc... Side note: In my opinion, tuners who only speak in HP numbers often do sketchy things to get there. Improving driveability and maintaining durability are the hard part, HP gains are easy. So if 15 HP was the main part of his sales pitch, skip it. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 Your tune from Ford/Shelby is a SAFE tune. The tuner will essentially play with the AF ratio and the curves and LEAN out the mixture producing more HP but at a cost. The cost is longevity and higher risk to piston detonation. The SGT's are not what we expected them to be but they are still a safe tune from Ford/Shelby for longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 The SGT's are not what we expected them to be What'd you expect it to be??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IASHELBYGT Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 That's it in a nutshell. A talented tuner can improve driveability, etc... so HP is not the only goal. Also, there are a few easy mods you can do at the same time to make the overall project worth it - underdrive pullies, etc... Side note: In my opinion, tuners who only speak in HP numbers often do sketchy things to get there. Improving driveability and maintaining durability are the hard part, HP gains are easy. So if 15 HP was the main part of his sales pitch, skip it. Jer I would agree with Jer on this. I had VMP dyno tune mine at Shelbyfest a couple of years ago. Justin smoothed out the air/fuel ratio and increased about 15HP. Overall though the drivability of the car improved. It felt more woke up and responsive IMO. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REDTAIL Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 Jer said it better than i could .....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 I and most of the others that bought 2007 SGT's expected more performance than 319. It was our own fault as we knew the HP had only been increased by 19 HP over stock but we had drank the Kool Aid and have always felt the SGT should have had 375-400 or more stock from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Having read all of the above, my answer is no. You can get a 15 HP variation on what you ave from temperature and humidity, and unless you're on a straight drag run you'll never notice it. if you want to feel it, send it to SAI and get the GT/SC upgrade. Now that will raise your hackles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nojoke4true Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Well ya gotta start somewhere so if you can afford it..then do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007tungstenGT500 Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 personally, if i were gonna do a dyno tune on an otherwise stock SGT, i would definitely add steeda underdrive pulleys, a steeda carbon-fiber intake tube, ford racing throttle body, magnaflow high-flow cats and call it a day. you could throw in a ford racing intake manifold if you had the extra money, but i wouldn't bother with cams, heads or headers, myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccsl7578 Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 I agree with the others, I would wait and do a few mods before I had it dyno tuned. Now if your car was an automatic, you would notice a real difference in the driveability under full throttle. They can change the red line RPM, up the shift points of the trans (RPM's where the trans upshifts) and change the shift pressure so the trans shifts faster & harder! No problem chirping the tires when it shifts! Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARMORINE Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 if your gonna dyno tune have some other things changed first. i fully endorse 4:10 gears, lts and cmdps. just be warned its a slippery slope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Juice Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Has anyone added a Steeda tube to replace the Ford CAI? If so, did it require a new tune and did you encounter a check enginge light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 I added the Steeda Tube to my SGT, and I don't think I had a new tune. The tube just alters the airflow, it does not increase the airflow. An increase in air would necessitate an adjustment to the A/F ratio via the Tune. A larger CAI box, larger volume tube, or larger Mass Air Flow (MAF) housing would all allow for more air flow to the Throttle Body, and all of those would require a new tune in the process. I changed mine more for looks for $120, and it did seem to smooth out the air flow...didn't add any more air to the TB to my knowledge. I later changed from the 55mm throttle body to the FRPP 62 mm throttle body, and that definitely required a new tune. I started off using the canned tune from Steeda since I purchased my SCT-X3 tuner from Steeda, the updated tunes were free. I noticed a slight difference with that and had them set me up with a 93 octane tune since we have 93 here in GA. About 2 months later, I got a full custom tune for 93 octane and the 62mm TB, and I could tell a large difference in the performance of the vehicle at that point. ONE INTERESTING NOTE: Once I installed the 62mm TB and tune, I started to get a whistling sound under light initial throttle....it was the sound of the airflow whistling. Once I push past a certain point it stops, but it is definitely coming from the CAI after adding the 62mm TB. I'm sure others here could chime in with more info.... Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbytexan Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 The best feel for your money is 410 gears,hands down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarb169 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 I added the Steeda Tube to my SGT, and I don't think I had a new tune. The tube just alters the airflow, it does not increase the airflow. An increase in air would necessitate an adjustment to the A/F ratio via the Tune. A larger CAI box, larger volume tube, or larger Mass Air Flow (MAF) housing would all allow for more air flow to the Throttle Body, and all of those would require a new tune in the process. I changed mine more for looks for $120, and it did seem to smooth out the air flow...didn't add any more air to the TB to my knowledge. I later changed from the 55mm throttle body to the FRPP 62 mm throttle body, and that definitely required a new tune. I started off using the canned tune from Steeda since I purchased my SCT-X3 tuner from Steeda, the updated tunes were free. I noticed a slight difference with that and had them set me up with a 93 octane tune since we have 93 here in GA. About 2 months later, I got a full custom tune for 93 octane and the 62mm TB, and I could tell a large difference in the performance of the vehicle at that point. ONE INTERESTING NOTE: Once I installed the 62mm TB and tune, I started to get a whistling sound under light initial throttle....it was the sound of the airflow whistling. Once I push past a certain point it stops, but it is definitely coming from the CAI after adding the 62mm TB. I'm sure others here could chime in with more info.... Andy. Andy, i noticed this too after upgrading to the FRPP 62mm throttle body. At first i thought it was my oil separator, which i could put my finger on to stop the whistling (figured maybe a leaky connection), but then i put the stock tube back on and still had it. Kind of bugs me a little. Hoping it will go away when I get around to my cmd plates, lt headers and hot rod cams next summer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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