gotoatz Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Love the color choice! Using my Snake as a daily driver, this is my favorite mod and one of the lowest cost projects I've done. And after changing to RP Synchromax trans fluid, it was a whole experience shifting through the gears. Lots of complements on the 'look' too. Barry, I have been thinking about swapping Trans Fluid as well. So you could tell the difference between the Royal Purple and OEM fluids? Any help with the sluggish 1st to 2nd shift?? Thx, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barspen Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Barry, I have been thinking about swapping Trans Fluid as well. So you could tell the difference between the Royal Purple and OEM fluids? Any help with the sluggish 1st to 2nd shift?? Thx, Mike Hi Mike, no sluggish or sloppy shifts after I went to the strait shift lever and RP trans fluid. Not sure what had a bigger impact to be honest. It took a few months after the fluid change and stick swap to really notice the difference. Since my car is a DD 99% of the time, I don't have much experience with really hard or aggressive shifts. What I can say, I currently have no issues moving through the gears after the mod and fluid swap. The few track events I've participated in, I had no issues getting to the gear either. I had noticeable issues at the track prior to the upgrades. I'd recommend changing the fluid since its not that expensive. Shop did it for $60 + $15/quart of RP Synchromax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Hi Mike, no sluggish or sloppy shifts after I went to the strait shift lever and RP trans fluid. Not sure what had a bigger impact to be honest. It took a few months after the fluid change and stick swap to really notice the difference. Since my car is a DD 99% of the time, I don't have much experience with really hard or aggressive shifts. What I can say, I currently have no issues moving through the gears after the mod and fluid swap. The few track events I've participated in, I had no issues getting to the gear either. I had noticeable issues at the track prior to the upgrades. I'd recommend changing the fluid since its not that expensive. Shop did it for $60 + $15/quart of RP Synchromax. Awesome. Mine is a daily driver as well. Especially since I sold the 05 a couple of weeks ago. I am going to look at this swap for sure. 1st to 2nd is rough at times when it is cold, and forget an agressive shift....... Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIKEBOY Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Mike, Saw your post last night on IMBOC... For a minute I was excited!! I thought you found something REALLY game changing !! Back in 2007 when my white car arrived, I HATED the shifter, and of course then nothing existed or did anyone know what to do with these (new GT500's) So me being the McGuyver me......I removed the lever and turned it around 180 degrees and reinstalled it. Well, that made for a better throw location for about a month. So, I started thinking "there has to be something better"? I did order a white cue ball with a 6spd pattern almost before the car arrived (from GrabberPony.com) That was an immense cozmetic difference right from the get. But after a month of the lever 'S'-shape turned around, I removed it again and stuck it in a vice and with the help of a small torch and a deep socket on a breaker bar....bent it backwards and towards the dirvers right leg...old school style. All the while leaving the rubber insulator on it during THAT car's ownership. For that car...I was happy. Here is a pic of it done up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIKEBOY Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Spin the clock forward many more years, and on my new 500 it HAD to be different! After test driving this one for the first time with only 1400 unmolested miles on it and the stock shifter still aboard......I told the wife, "This shifter has to go!" Sooooooo, I did some research and decided on something very close to what you posted about here. The FRPP shift lever replacement. It achieves the same thing as the Hurst "straight rod" does by way of eliminating the (sloppy) rubbery bushings and re-aligning the location of the "throw" and getting it away from the heater controls. PLUS, as an added bonus looks like an old Hurst rectangle shank inside the shift boot. I am very happy with this option as well and it was like $140 (?) or so... Somewhere on TS here I had a thread about this. I don't know where it is, as it's been over a year now. This part comes in a chrome lever with a white cue ball, or black with a black cue ball (as I decided on) because of my black striped car. Great post BTW, Mike!!! Very thorough and informative! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1SlowCobra Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Mike, thank you for this thread. This was one of the first mods I did to my Shelby, and it made it shift like a new car. So thank you sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Spin the clock forward many more years, and on my new 500 it HAD to be different! After test driving this one for the first time with only 1400 unmolested miles on it and the stock shifter still aboard......I told the wife, "This shifter has to go!" Sooooooo, I did some research and decided on something very close to what you posted about here. The FRPP shift lever replacement. It achieves the same thing as the Hurst "straight rod" does by way of eliminating the (sloppy) rubbery bushings and re-aligning the location of the "throw" and getting it away from the heater controls. PLUS, as an added bonus looks like an old Hurst rectangle shank inside the shift boot. I am very happy with this option as well and it was like $140 (?) or so... Somewhere on TS here I had a thread about this. I don't know where it is, as it's been over a year now. This part comes in a chrome lever with a white cue ball, or black with a black cue ball (as I decided on) because of my black striped car. Great post BTW, Mike!!! Very thorough and informative! Looks awesome my friend....But, do they make the FRPP handle that fits a 2011, since the bolts run side to side instead of front to back??? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Mike, thank you for this thread. This was one of the first mods I did to my Shelby, and it made it shift like a new car. So thank you sir. Thank you kind sir. I appreciate it. I am glad the thread helped out. I would personally never go back to the stock stick...... Thanks again, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIKEBOY Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Spin the clock forward many more years, and on my new 500 it HAD to be different! After test driving this one for the first time with only 1400 unmolested miles on it and the stock shifter still aboard......I told the wife, "This shifter has to go!" Sooooooo, I did some research and decided on something very close to what you posted about here. The FRPP shift lever replacement. It achieves the same thing as the Hurst "straight rod" does by way of eliminating the (sloppy) rubbery bushings and re-aligning the location of the "throw" and getting it away from the heater controls. PLUS, as an added bonus looks like an old Hurst rectangle shank inside the shift boot. I am very happy with this option as well and it was like $140 (?) or so... Somewhere on TS here I had a thread about this. I don't know where it is, as it's been over a year now. This part comes in a chrome lever with a white cue ball, or black with a black cue ball (as I decided on) because of my black striped car. Great post BTW, Mike!!! Very thorough and informative! Looks awesome my friend....But, do they make the FRPP handle that fits a 2011, since the bolts run side to side instead of front to back??? Mike I'm gonna say, no... I don't believe I've ever seen it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yell03 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I actually did a similar mod tonight. All I did was replace the soft rubber bushings with metal bushings and lock washers a guy on the forums named Mike came up with for $25 shipped. I bought the materials from him, hey he put the R&D in to it, if he makes a few $$$ he deserves it. I reused the stock shifter as I like the ergonomics. Installed in less than 1/2 hour, very easy. I am not very mechanical, so anyone could do it. I left the ratchet and 1/2" socket in the car in case it loosens up after a couple of days. Only tools needed. Results... Really doesn't feel all that different, just less rubbery and it feels more positive going in to gear with a nicer click click type feel, but as long as the mod makes the 1-2 grind go away or at least happen less frequently it is well worth the cost. I do hear a slight whirring gear sound sometimes after I put it in 1st or 2nd, but my father's stock shifter in his 2013 5.0 makes that sound as does my son's 2005 Mustang GT with Hurst shifter, I like it, it's a mechanical sound that lets me know the shifter is attached to the tranny. That is it as far as increased noise. I did a few fast 1-2 shifts, but it is too cold to go with much throttle, but no grinding tonight. I'll post up again in a few days after I get more seat time with it. Here is a pic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yell03 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I actually did a similar mod tonight. All I did was replace the soft rubber bushings with metal bushings and lock washers a guy on the forums named Mike came up with for $25 shipped. I bought the materials from him, hey he put the R&D in to it, if he makes a few $$$ he deserves it. I reused the stock shifter as I like the ergonomics. Installed in less than 1/2 hour, very easy. I am not very mechanical, so anyone could do it. I left the ratchet and 1/2" socket in the car in case it loosens up after a couple of days. Only tools needed. Results... Really doesn't feel all that different, just less rubbery and it feels more positive going in to gear with a nicer click click type feel, but as long as the mod makes the 1-2 grind go away or at least happen less frequently it is well worth the cost. I do hear a slight whirring gear sound sometimes after I put it in 1st or 2nd, but my father's stock shifter in his 2013 5.0 makes that sound as does my son's 2005 Mustang GT with Hurst shifter, I like it, it's a mechanical sound that lets me know the shifter is attached to the tranny. That is it as far as increased noise. I did a few fast 1-2 shifts, but it is too cold to go with much throttle, but no grinding tonight. I'll post up again in a few days after I get more seat time with it. Here is a pic: re-tightened everything this morning and headed to work, it feels really good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barspen Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Nice work yell03. If you notice any unwanted vibration-type noises (similar to a compressed air can releasing slowly when you grab the shifter), you can put some small, very thin, rubber washers where the sticks meet and between the bolt and stick. Cost me about $2 at ACE HW. I was amazed how it dampened that specific 'hissing' noise, but left the feel the same. It works for the stock method as you are showing, or with the strait shift level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yell03 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Nice work yell03. If you notice any unwanted vibration-type noises (similar to a compressed air can releasing slowly when you grab the shifter), you can put some small, very thin, rubber washers where the sticks meet and between the bolt and stick. Cost me about $2 at ACE HW. I was amazed how it dampened that specific 'hissing' noise, but left the feel the same. It works for the stock method as you are showing, or with the strait shift level. The noise is only if you leave your hand on the shifter that I really notice it, but I like the noise and there is no vibration. I let my 19 year old son drive it today, he thought it felt 10x better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judgeman6970 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 shouldn't those large metal bushings go "between" the shift handle & tranny stick, otherwise whats the point of them?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yell03 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 The mod seems to work well... 3 passes at ATCO today, it went in to 2nd every time! In fact, it almost killed me on the 1st pass on a high rpm 1-2 shift, put me right to the wall. After that I short shifted & granny shifted the 1-2 and got a 12.0@124 on my 2nd pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pue174 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 The bushings stick out to allow you to use stock bolts, I guess you could put them the other way if you wanted your handle moved to the right 1/4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judgeman6970 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 The bushings stick out to allow you to use stock bolts, I guess you could put them the other way if you wanted your handle moved to the right 1/4". ok, got it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGT Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I installed these bushings as well. It really tightened the shifter up and makes it feel much more solid. As far as bang for the buck, tough to beat and very easy to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yell03 Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I installed these bushings as well. It really tightened the shifter up and makes it feel much more solid. As far as bang for the buck, tough to beat and very easy to install. Definitely a big difference. I will admit to getting a 1-2 grind the other day, the 1st one in a while. I guess I still have to slow down a bit on the 1-2 shifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pue174 Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I also swapped out fluid to amsoil, also helped on the 1-2 shift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yell03 Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I also swapped out fluid to amsoil, also helped on the 1-2 shift. I think that will be my next move, but thanks for a great mod, the shifting feels so much better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blownz71 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 2012gt 500 supersnake 800 hp, just lost 2 to 3 shift with any power on car, shifts fine low RPMS 2 to 3, kinda pissed but like some idias what's going on, it has gt 1000 clutch system installed, every mod offered by Shelby and the boys across the street ,CSM # 12SS0110 2800 miles since build in Vegas, never been fun to shift now it's a Sunday driver, there just has to be real fix for the shift problems in these mustangs HELP me find it out, look at my build sheet nothing left out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb64 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 If you have the oem ford trans fluid, changing that will make a big difference, especially when the trans is cool. With my TSB clutch repair, they changed the fluid to Dexron III, and it was noticably better right away. I later changed it to Royal Purple Synchromax, and had pretty much the same results. On my 08 I ended up getting several pieces to try out, including the straight Hurst arm, the offset Shelby arm, the Shelby logo ball and the FRPP arm/ball combination. All worked very well by eliminating the mushy rubber bushings, which made a big difference to me after living with the oem setup for 4 years. The Shelby arm uses poly bushings that are much firmer than oem, but still offer some isolation. The Hurst arm is metal to metal on the stick, but uses some poly bushings between the bolt threads and arm. The Hurst arm also allows for a lower ball location/shorter arm assembly if desired. The Shelby logo balls are essentially hollow, so you can wind them way down to lower the height even more if you prefer that. In the end I stuck with the FRPP combo (which is also metal on metal) because the straight arm worked out the best for me, and the slightly smaller diameter ball offered me a firmer grip. The photo shows from left to right, Shelby arm, Hurst arm, oem 08 arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ08GT500 Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Well I ordered the Hurst stick and the shelby shifter ball, can't wait to install it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canson88 Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hi guys, i have ordered shifter handle from billetproshop and i am really happy with the product. Excellent quality and good finish. About improvement, it is night and day difference. i can tell you that for sure. it shifts so clean and some positive click. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AFTERMARKET-2010-2012-Shelby-GT500-T-304-Handle-Knob-/290650508599?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac1ecd37&vxp=mtr But i have some problem with rattle/vibration noise that i get from the shifter. And i hope you guys can help me to solve it. Watch my YouTube link and you will understand what i am talking about. The rattle goes worse when i drive faster and faster and have my hand on shifter. Do you guys same problem? I really dont like the rattle noise. Its just too much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQuNPy5UEis Regards Canson from Sweden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted May 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Canson, Your video is marked as private. Cannot view. I do have to ask, on the shift handle that you linked, the holes look pretty small. Is there enough room, and do they furnish a plastic collar for the bolt where it runs through the shifter handle? Also, looks like the face of the shift handle where it bolts up to the shift handle from the tranny is flat and smooth? If I recall, I think the face of the handle from the tranny is grooved. Between the two, I can see it causing a vibration...... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canson88 Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Canson, Your video is marked as private. Cannot view. I do have to ask, on the shift handle that you linked, the holes look pretty small. Is there enough room, and do they furnish a plastic collar for the bolt where it runs through the shifter handle? Also, looks like the face of the shift handle where it bolts up to the shift handle from the tranny is flat and smooth? If I recall, I think the face of the handle from the tranny is grooved. Between the two, I can see it causing a vibration...... Mike Hi mike, try now. i fixed the video. its public now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQuNPy5UEis The holes are small , there is still little room. i didn't got any plastic collar for bolt. i just used the two bolts from stock shifter handle. nothing else. i can take a picture tommorow to show you how i installed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted May 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Almost sounds like a creaking......I can see how that would drive you crazy......................... Post up the install pics when you can. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barspen Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hi mike, try now. i fixed the video. its public now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQuNPy5UEis The holes are small , there is still little room. i didn't got any plastic collar for bolt. i just used the two bolts from stock shifter handle. nothing else. i can take a picture tommorow to show you how i installed it. I had some noise when I installed mine, although it was vibration related when driving. My fix was to put small rubber washer (.79 cents at Ace) between shifter bar/trans stick and next to the washer. I honestly didn't think it would do much, but it reduced about 90% of the noise. Your issue sounds much different, but this trick may help if there is some metal-to-metal contact that needs some isolation. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb64 Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 That is a strange sound, any chance you might have a broken lock washer, bolts not seating completely etc? You might want to take it back apart and double check everything, it should be dead quiet. Any noise that you encounter should be just the noise/vibration transfered up through the shifter arm when the vehicle is in motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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