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Steeda Billet Lower Control Arms


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Thinking about adding Steeda Lower Control Arms (Billet Aluminum) to my 07 SGT. Does anybody have any pros or con's they would like to mention regarding the Steeda arms? Are the relocation brackets necessary and if so what would be the proper hole setting for the lowered SGT?

Edited by 07SGTC
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I have them on mine, recently added. You can see them in the post (added some new goodies) if you haven't already. The Steeda billet LC arms are definitely a nice piece and a huge improvement over the stock control arms. I also added the FRPP relocation brackets and you can feel a big difference in the ride with the upgrades I made. Keep in mind that also added the adjustable pan hard bar and the Heavy duty Pan hard bar brace at the same time. So I was seeing the difference in all the new pieces pretty much at the same time.

 

The relocation brackets were added about a month after the LC arms, bar and brace, and you can see the job they are doing. Before I added the relocation brackets the LC arms were pointing upward towards the diff end if you can picture it. When I installed them I set them on the middle hole and now the control arms are sitting nice and level on full weight of the vehicle.

 

I haven’t noticed any new noise out of them at all, they seem to be just as quiet as the OEM arms were. I'm very happy with them, and would recommend them to anyone interested. In the pictures below you can see one on the lift showing the middle setting, the others show them sitting on full weight of the car nice and level. Hope this helps.

 

Jeff

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I have them on mine, and haven't got any complaints. They are very stout pieces. I just ordered a set of relocation brackets two days ago, because they do correct the geometry for a lowered car. They (the relocation brackets) would be most valuable for high horse power applications to help keep the tires planted.

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The bushings are firmer, and the construction is more rigid to reduce any flex. This will help reduce wheel hop, and binding of the bushings as they travel in a arc. This will help out for your traction and how well a car "bites" as it comes out of spirited cornering. The draw back is that you will get more road noise, and a harsher feel through your suspension. this will depend on the type of bushing that you get with your aftermarket arms. Getting poly type bushings will only be slightly more than stock than if you were to get solid rod end, spherical, or delhume, type bushings.

 

The Steeda ones are a great choice, and will be close to stock as far as the road noise and feel. They are lighter than stock which will also reduce unsprung weight too.

 

Here is a link with their video to look at.

 

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-mustang-billet-lower-control-arms.html

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The bushings are firmer, and the construction is more rigid to reduce any flex. This will help reduce wheel hop, and binding of the bushings as they travel in a arc. This will help out for your traction and how well a car "bites" as it comes out of spirited cornering. The draw back is that you will get more road noise, and a harsher feel through your suspension. this will depend on the type of bushing that you get with your aftermarket arms. Getting poly type bushings will only be slightly more than stock than if you were to get solid rod end, spherical, or delhume, type bushings.

 

The Steeda ones are a great choice, and will be close to stock as far as the road noise and feel. They are lighter than stock which will also reduce unsprung weight too.

 

Here is a link with their video to look at.

 

http://www.steeda.co...ntrol-arms.html

 

The bushings are firmer, and the construction is more rigid to reduce any flex. This will help reduce wheel hop, and binding of the bushings as they travel in a arc. This will help out for your traction and how well a car "bites" as it comes out of spirited cornering. The draw back is that you will get more road noise, and a harsher feel through your suspension. this will depend on the type of bushing that you get with your aftermarket arms. Getting poly type bushings will only be slightly more than stock than if you were to get solid rod end, spherical, or delhume, type bushings.

 

The Steeda ones are a great choice, and will be close to stock as far as the road noise and feel. They are lighter than stock which will also reduce unsprung weight too.

 

Here is a link with their video to look at.

 

http://www.steeda.co...ntrol-arms.html

 

++

take a look at your stock or FRPP lower control arms they look like they were built out of old soup cans. The SVT option for the 13 gt500 is no better. The Steeda products rock for Suspension. Don't forget the Bump steer on the front if you are lowering that too. Also get rid of the factory upper and pan-hard bar more junk form the factory. These cars are great starting points they just need a little fix.

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For the looks I was going to start with the lower control arms then go to the upper at a later date. What will I notice with the new lower control arms after the upper is also changed? What is the difference between the FRPP relocation brackets and the Steeda brackets? Also is welding them necessary?

Edited by 07SGTC
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For the looks I was going to start with the lower control arms then go to the upper at a later date. What will I notice with the new lower control arms after the upper is also changed? What is the difference between the FRPP relocation brackets and the Steeda brackets? Also is welding them necessary?

 

I just got my Steeda street adjustable Upper and mount the other day and am waiting till the drive shaft arrives to install them both at the same time so I can't tell you what the difference will feel like with both installed just yet. With the changes I made so far I can say it feels a lot stiffer cornering than it did with the stock stuff on there.

 

I’m sure the Steeda LC arm relocation brackets are a good product but I didn’t want to have to have them welded on which is required with them. The FRPP brackets are the ones that come standard on the Boss 302s, they are bolt on, very heavy duty, and my thought was that if it’s good enough as a bolt on for the 302s then I don’t see why I would even consider the Steeda weld in ones. Hope this helps. I’ll post up some more when I get the driveshaft and the Steeda upper in, hoping later this week.

 

And just as a side note I just got the go ahead from the wife (approving authority) to order the borla catbacks that Shelby has on sale, I’m realyl psyched and can’t wait to hear what they sound like with my long tubes. Can’t wait to place the order, Monday can’t come soon enough!

 

Jeff

Edited by MyBlueHeaven
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++

take a look at your stock or FRPP lower control arms they look like they were built out of old soup cans. The SVT option for the 13 gt500 is no better. The Steeda products rock for Suspension. Don't forget the Bump steer on the front if you are lowering that too. Also get rid of the factory upper and pan-hard bar more junk form the factory. These cars are great starting points they just need a little fix.

 

 

Nice post, Glen....when your '13 gets here it will be as good as your 07....LOL

 

Alex

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Steeda LCA brackets need to be welded, the FRPP brackets say they can just be bolted in but I would want to weld those also. That's not something I want to take a chance with, welding is cheaper than replacing suspension components later on.

 

Adding an UCA is supposed to help even more with wheel hop and traction off the line. You will notice a difference with just the LCAs and the relocation brackets. I would install the lowers and see if you're happy with the feel. If not, go back in and change the uppers.

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Can anyone answer the questions in post #10? Thanks for any info!

 

I'm pretty sure I answered your question about welding and not welding in post #11 right after you asked it, and the rest of your questions have been answered in various posts throughout this thread. In the end you will have a stiffer ride for cornering (control arms) with better traction (relocation brackets) and adjustability with the upper for pinion angle correction.

Edited by MyBlueHeaven
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  • 8 months later...

Can anyone answer if I was to install Steeda lower control arms without the relocation brackets would there be any noticeable difference in wheel hop.

Can I install the relocation brackets at a later date? And how easy would the install be after the LCA's have been previously installed.

 

Any info would be great!

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Steeda Billet LCA installed a couple of years ago without relocation brackets

Many here are far more knowledgeable & better drivers for certain, but I have had 0 issues or complaints either on the road or at the track & no wheel hop even with direct application of the 450 RWHP to the road :)

IMAG0151.jpg

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