MRT muffler delete

[ShelbysShelby]

Anyone heard these on a mustang in person? The baffles have let go in one of my mufflers on my gth and rattles something fierce. Im looking for a fairly loud and aggressive sound. Any input would be much appreciated!!

[harristotle]

I can't speak to the MRT's, but I've got SLP Loudmouth's and I freaking love them! Very loud on start-up and full throttle and no drone.

[JT93]

I have those on my car right now. They definitely give you that deep muscle car sound, I'll got a couple of videos somewhere I find and post for you. They DO have a drone at 1800-1900 rpm which is 5th gear at about 65 mph. But at 2000 rpm, 70 mph (or higher) they have a great sound and always turn heads.

 

http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/mcgrane1/media/Exhaust%20Vids/SGTIdle.mp4.html

http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/mcgrane1/media/Exhaust%20Vids/SGTRev.mp4.html

 

Edit for video uploads.

Edited April 19, 2013 by JT93

[ShelbysShelby]

Appreciate the feedback. I see pypes also has a muffler delete kit. Not sure which one to go with.

[ShelbysShelby]

Sound clips sound awesome. Definetly the sound im looking for. Thank you

[stewarbc]

JT93, those sound awesome.

[JT93]

Thanks guys. They are definitely hard to beat at WOT when you're going through the gears.

[harristotle]

Thanks guys. They are definitely hard to beat at WOT when you're going through the gears.

 

 

AGH! I want cams!!!

 

Speaking of cams, and not to hi-jack the thread BUT... I went and had a dyno run done here at a local performance shop that's quite reputable in the area, and he did not have positive things to say about the FR Hot Rod Cams. I had always planned on going that route, but one of his complaints about it was that they couldn't get them to idle correctly. With the number of reviews on American Muscle alone, I had to question how accurate that position is. What's been your experience with them?

[JT93]

If you would've asked me a year ago I would've told you that they were a great cam in the sound department, but not for a daily driver. They shook the car like crazy, which wasn't bad but got a little annoying sometimes. However, since then my tuner went to what he called dyno tuning training, I'm not sure if it was a class or if he just talked and spent some time with local tuners, he has been able to do some amazing thing. At this training he learned how to adjust variable cam timing settings, something that he didn't want to touch before because they have X-Y-Z coordinates. That is to change one lobe on the cam all three had to be adjusted and then repeated on the other side. I happened to be the first car into the shop after he finished his training from what I understand. He spent 6 hours and 22 runs on the dyno tuning try to get everything he could out of them, and he did. They are now absolutely perfect! No shake in the car and the idle absolutely perfect.

 

I do have a couple 'complaints' about them:

 

1) If I need to take the car out of gear quickly to stop it does pull the rpms way down (about 250-300), but they always come right back and it has never stalled.

2) I cannot start the car and take off if the engine is cold. With the increased duration the motor needs to warm up before it can handle the low rpms (I'm not sure why that is). If I let it sit and come down from the higher startup rpms on its own then it's fine. It is also more of an 'issue' if the car has been sitting for a while. That's not something that really bothers me, it's just something to be aware of.

3) It is true that they will chug in the low rpms, but it's something that just needs to be adjusted to. If the car begins to chug I simply downshift and get the rpms higher. If I'm in stop-and-go traffic and am only in 1st gear I just have to leave a little more room between the car in front of my so I can fully engage the clutch.

 

They make your driving experience a little different, but there is nothing that is annoying or can't be easily adjusted to **if they are tuned correctly.** Without a good tune, I can see how people would hate these cams and what they bring to the driving experience.

 

With the right tune there is, in my opinion, no better cam for these cars. They complete the retro look and give you that aggressive muscle car rumble. Having said all this, as my signature shows I have almost completely all FRPP parts, and I'm probably a little biased since I live in metro Detroit. When the car was finished on the dyno last trip my tuner called me and said that my car was the best FRPP kit car that he ever worked on. It came out with 333rwhp and 309 ft/lbs. Needless to say, I will continue to put FRPP parts on the car, next are the CNC hi-flow heads.

 

Sorry, I know I was a little windy there - it's late and finals time so I'm tapped out. I'm interested in what your tuner means by not being able to get them to idle correctly. It can definitely be done, it just takes a lot of time and patience. I don't see any mods listed for your car so I can give you an idea of what to expect power wise. Stock SGT is 315hp at the crank, with a 15% reduction at the wheels you've got about 268rwhp, I'm not sure what the stock torque levels were. With the cams and tune I saw at 287rwhp and 297ft/lbs. So with the cams alone it was a 20rwhp pick up, which was a little more than I was expecting. Headers, intake, etc. only adds to their power levels. It is true that they give you more power in the higher rpms and you loose a little in the lower, but for me it was not noticeable. I'm going to put a new gear in (most likely a 4:10) to give me a little more low end power.

 

I hope that answered your question, if not feel free to ask away. I'm sure some of the other guys might be able to explain things a little more concisely than me and might be able to give you a little more insight into what you might experiences but I truly believe that it all comes down to the tuner and their ability and want to give you the most power that the cam can give.

 

Edited for terrible grammar.

Edited April 19, 2013 by JT93

[JT93]

Double Post

Edited April 19, 2013 by JT93

[Jer]

If you would've asked me a year ago I would've told you that they were a great cam in the sound department, but not for a daily driver. They shook the car like crazy, which wasn't bad but got a little annoying sometimes. However, since then my tuner went to what he called dyno tuning training, I'm not sure if it was a class or if he just talked and spent some time with local tuners, he has been able to do some amazing thing. At this training he learned how to adjust variable cam timing settings, something that he didn't want to touch before because they have X-Y-Z coordinates. That is to change one lobe on the cam all three had to be adjusted and then repeated on the other side. I happened to be the first car into the shop after he finished his training from what I understand. He spent 6 hours and 22 runs on the dyno tuning try to get everything he could out of them, and he did. They are now absolutely perfect! No shake in the car and the idle absolutely perfect.

 

I do have a couple 'complaints' about them:

 

1) If I need to take the car out of gear quickly to stop if does pull the rpms way down (about 250-300), but they always come right back and it has never stalled.

2) I cannot start the car and take off if the engine is cold. With the increased duration the motor needs to warm up before it can handle the low rpms (I'm not sure why that is). If I let it sit and come down from the higher startup rpms on its own then it's fine. It is also more of an 'issue' if the car has been sitting for a while. That's not something that really bothers me, it's just something to be aware of.

3) It is true that they will chug in the low rpms, but it's something that just needs to be adjusted to. If the car begins to chug I simply downshift and get the rpms higher. If I'm in stop-and-go traffic and am only in 1st gear I just have to leave a little more room between the car in front of my so I can fully engage the clutch.

 

They make your driving experience a little different, but there is nothing that is annoying or can't be easily adjusted to **if they are tuned correctly.** Without a good tune, I can see how people would hate these cams and what they bring to the driving experience.

 

With the right tune there is, in my opinion, no better cam for these cars. They complete the retro look and give you that aggressive muscle car rumble. Having said all this, as my signature shows I have almost completely all FRPP parts, and I'm probably a little biased since I live in metro Detroit. When the car was finished on the dyno last trip my tuner called me and said that my car was the best FRPP kit car that he ever worked on. It came out with 333rwhp and 309 ft/lbs. Needless to say, I will continue to put FRPP parts on the car, next are the CNC hi-flow heads.

 

Sorry, I know I was a little windy there - it's late and finals time so I'm tapped out. I'm interested in what your tuner means by not being able to get them to idle correctly. It can definitely be done, it just takes a lot of time and patience. I don't see any mods listed for your car so I can give you an idea of what to expect power wise. Stock SGT is 315hp at the crank, with a 15% reduction at the wheels you've got about 268rwhp, I'm not sure what the stock torque levels were. With the cams and tune I saw at 287rwhp and 297ft/lbs. So with the cams alone it was a 20rwhp pick up, which was a little more than I was expecting. Headers, intake, etc. only adds to their power levels. It is true that they give you more power in the higher rpms and you loose a little in the lower, but for me it was not noticeable. I'm going to put a new gear in (most likely a 4:10) to give me a little more low end power.

 

I hope that answered your question, if not feel free to ask away. I'm sure some of the other guys might be able to explain things a little more concisely than me and might be able to give you a little more insight into what you might experiences but I truly believe that it all comes down to the tuner and their ability and want to give you the most power that the cam can give.

 

Edited for terrible grammar.

 

 

These are the kinds of posts I love, plenty of detail and real hands-on experience with different products. Thanks for all the typing!

 

 

Jer

[JT93]

Any time! Glad to help other folks figure out what they're buying before hand.

 

This hobby is too expensive to spend money on a part you don't like in the end.

[harristotle]

Yeah, I'm with Jer, that was an excellent post.

 

He really didn't give much in depth info to me on what about them was bad. He just told me they were a waste of time and do go with the Mutha Thumpers.

 

As far as my mods, currently all I've got are JBA shorty headers and the steeda intake hose. The only other mods I'm planning on for the engine are the steeda CMRC deletes, Steeda pulley's, FR Throttle Body and Cams. Further down the road I'd like to put some high flow cats and 3.73's in.

 

Did you use the out of the box tune for the cams or did you have it taken to a tuner right off the bat?

 

My goals right now are all the mods I listed, with cams coming second to last, then the pulley's. I'd like to use the "out-of-the-box" tune until I've got all the mods done, then take it to a good tuner to have everything dialed in.