BCPD199 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Thanks Grabber. I saw your car up on the lift earlier and I couldn't understand how the lifting pads weren't crushing the rocker panels, at least at the front. I have a 2013 if it makes a difference, and the pinch weld is about .375" higher than bottom of the rocker. The lifting pad would have be 2.5" or less wide to reach the pinch weld from the inside only. The rocker has an attaching point right at this lifting point and there is no flexibility for bending the plastic. I viewed the PDF that you posted, but it fails to address this situation. I do not have a 13 and I guess it must be different. Maybe someone with a 13 can chime in. You are the first one to ever have this problem. I had the first oil change done at Ford and I can confirm that the lift does contact and slightly push in the rocker panel. I was more than a little shocked/worried about the panel; but, after bringing the car down, it did not deform or scratch the panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IngotSilverSnake Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Thanks Grabber. I saw your car up on the lift earlier and I couldn't understand how the lifting pads weren't crushing the rocker panels, at least at the front. I have a 2013 if it makes a difference, and the pinch weld is about .375" higher than bottom of the rocker. The lifting pad would have be 2.5" or less wide to reach the pinch weld from the inside only. The rocker has an attaching point right at this lifting point and there is no flexibility for bending the plastic. I viewed the PDF that you posted, but it fails to address this situation. Take another look at my post above because I guess nobody else bothered. I gave you the solution to your problem. The nylon bench blocks are 2.5" wide and fit inside the rocker. Here is the link again. http://www.brownells...8100000_d_11267 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Take another look at my post above because I guess nobody else bothered. I gave you the solution to your problem. The nylon bench blocks are 2.5" wide and fit inside the rocker. Here is the link again. http://www.brownells...8100000_d_11267 I did. Thank you for posting it. Any idea how your solution compares (functionality-wise) to Revan Racing's True Forged Billet Jacking Insert? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IngotSilverSnake Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I did. Thank you for posting it. Any idea how your solution compares (functionality-wise) to Revan Racing's True Forged Billet Jacking Insert? Never tried the True Forged Inserts but I am sure they are the right size and would work well. However, the nylon bench blocks non-marring and will not scratch the pinch welds. Price is also an issue. I paid $18.51 per block (miliitary price at Brownells). True Forged inserts are $65 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torch40 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Not Pretty but it works with my floor jack. That's perfect! However it simply does not work for a Sharks fan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnut45 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 The problem with the revan racing product and the nylon blocks is that it is pretty hard to exactly position 4 at a time when using a 2 post lift. I'm going to create my own blocks to engage the pinch weld and they will have magnets to hold them on to the pinch weld until the rising lift pads make contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light66 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Not Pretty but it works with my floor jack. Along the same idea, why not find a used tire with decent blocks / tread left? Cut the tire tread to desired dimensions and go with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IngotSilverSnake Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 The problem with the revan racing product and the nylon blocks is that it is pretty hard to exactly position 4 at a time when using a 2 post lift. I'm going to create my own blocks to engage the pinch weld and they will have magnets to hold them on to the pinch weld until the rising lift pads make contact. I have not had this problem because I use my nylon blocks with my floor jacks only. Interesting thought on the magnets. Seems to me that you would have to have one heck of a strong magnet to make it work. I would be interested in what you come up with. I think it may be easier to tape the nylon blocks in place with duct tape when using a 2 post lift. They are very light and should stay in place long enough to position the lift pads. (I am a strong beleiver that you can do almost anything with zip ties and duct tape). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra99 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 My hockey pucks stay in place until I remove them. Part of my great engineering :rockon: Cost Pucks - Free :happy feet: Screws - Already had them in the garage Time - Free :happy feet: Total cost Nothing :yahoo: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IngotSilverSnake Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 My hockey pucks stay in place until I remove them. Part of my great engineering Cost Pucks - Free :happy feet: Screws - Already had them in the garage Time - Free :happy feet: Total cost Nothing Sounds like you have a pretty good design there. May you should patent it. Where do I get my free hockey pucks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torch40 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Sounds like you have a pretty good design there. May you should patent it. Where do I get my free hockey pucks? Not in Florida Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IngotSilverSnake Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Not in Florida And why not. We have a hockey team down here. The Tampa Bay Lightning!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra99 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 And why not. We have a hockey team down here. The Tampa Bay Lightning!! Up here we can buy them by the pail full http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/2/HockeyIce/HockeyAccessories/PRDOVR~0830127P/Jumpstart+and+NHL+15-pack+Official+Hockey+Pucks.jsp?locale=en. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IngotSilverSnake Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Up here we can buy them by the pail full http://www.canadiant...s.jsp?locale=en. Thats a good price but still not free. I have to admit, there are no pails full of pucks in sporting goods stores around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy49 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 I am looking for a couple of Mustang scissor jacks. I am going to try to find them at a local wrecking yard, what year Mustangs have the jack I need for a 2013?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Haney Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 I did. Thank you for posting it. Any idea how your solution compares (functionality-wise) to Revan Racing's True Forged Billet Jacking Insert? The True Forged Billet Jacking Inserts are to wide to fit inside the pocket of the redesigned rocker panels of the 2013 and will need to be cut down to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergenfelter Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 I am looking for a couple of Mustang scissor jacks. I am going to try to find them at a local wrecking yard, what year Mustangs have the jack I need for a 2013?. I just picked up a couple of brand new scissor jacks from Menards for $20 each - they work great - just added a small felt pad where the jack contacts the piinch weld to keep from scuffing the weld joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJinLV Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 I wont buy Torin products, all made in China. Just something I prefer to do. In many cases, you can use a ramp instead of a jack, depending on what you want to do. I just got 56" 1 piece Race Ramps and am extremely happy with them for $200 shipped. They have 2 piece ramps and all sorts of items to store your car off the ground, for trailering etc. Take a look at the website, then buy them off ebay for a better price. http://www.raceramps.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 The True Forged Billet Jacking Inserts are to wide to fit inside the pocket of the redesigned rocker panels of the 2013 and will need to be cut down to work. Thank you! I did not realize that. The Brownell's non-marring nylon bench stock IngotSilverSnake recommended is looking pretty good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clark17357 Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 There is a low cost solution to all this that makes life much less stressful and eliminates any chance for error. Jacking rails. http://store.kennybrown.com/product/chassis-support/jacking-rails-1979-1993-mustang-and-2005-2014-mustanggt500 Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickW Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 I wont buy Torin products, all made in China. Just something I prefer to do. In many cases, you can use a ramp instead of a jack, depending on what you want to do. I just got 56" 1 piece Race Ramps and am extremely happy with them for $200 shipped. They have 2 piece ramps and all sorts of items to store your car off the ground, for trailering etc. Take a look at the website, then buy them off ebay for a better price. http://www.raceramps.com/ When I was 17, I had a '67 Olds 442. I rebuilt the 400 ci engine (.030 over), installed a set of long-tube headers and a Holley 780. That car was faster than shit, and it would blow through clutches every other week. I worked at a lumber yard at the time, so I was able to get a set of sawed-off lengths of 2X12s that I nailed together for a primitive set of ramps. They were from scrap lumber, so they didn't cost a dime, except for the nails. Mom & Dad didn't like having to store those those bulky ramps I made and had to store in their garage, but they've since forgiven me for it. I'd limp the 442 up the ramps in our driveway, and I got so familiar with replacing the clutch in that car that I could replace the clutch in about 45 minutes, by myself. OK, I was an idiot. Just thought I would share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohring Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Hello, I'm new to this site. Looking for ways to improve my garage set up. Great posts above. If you are interested check my simple and cheap solution here. See the "Bohring" post. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-mustang-gt-tech/368386-now-heres-how-jack-up-2011-2013-mustang.html#post3366226 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revan Racing Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 These True Forged Billet Jacking Inserts work on 2013 GT500's. They work on all GT500's. I use them on my 2013 GT500. http://www.revanracing.com/products/true-forged-billet-jacking-insert.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glroy Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 There is a low cost solution to all this that makes life much less stressful and eliminates any chance for error. Jacking rails. http://store.kennybr...14-mustanggt500 Jim ++ getting them installed on my 07 and 13 Hockey pucks are a great Idea but hard to find for free anywhere west of Vancouver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHVA226 Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 These tread is very helpful. My only question is: when you jack the rear using the factory point, where can I place the jack stands as a backup. From the picture it is very clear where to place the stands of the front, but I don't see any stands on the back. Thank you very much, Gus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHVA226 Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Are the jack stands in the rear supposed to be right near the jack point? In the same rail? Or do they go towards the inside of the car? Thanks, Gus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Gus, Take a look at the pic's in the attached link. Look at the red dots on my car for exact locations. http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/63162-proper-jack-point/?do=findComment&comment=1075432 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHVA226 Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Grabber, Greatly appreciated, man! Will follow your lead and mark the location as well. Thank you Gus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm1459 Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Hey ,everybody. New around here could someone verify that lifting the convertibles should be the same as the above mentioned instructions from ford ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted September 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Hey ,everybody. New around here could someone verify that lifting the convertibles should be the same as the above mentioned instructions from ford ?. The only thing that is different is that you have to have a female assistant help you and she has to be topless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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