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1st Detail question


dave 316

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I did a search, and found a lot of back and forth of what brands are better, but the question I have is this. I don't want to argue about one company over another.

Within the next month I should take delivery.

My plan was to clay the entire car as 1st order of business to get a super smooth base. This is where I need some opinions from people who have actually done this. At this point, would it be correct to use a good polish, the finish with a couple of top coats of wax? Any brands that you may have used and had good results with would be helpful. Thanks boys.

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Yes, your plan sounds good. My regimen goes like this:

 

- Wash with microfiber mitt (two bucket method...)

- clay bar

- polish/sealant

- wax

 

I use Poorboys products. If you are interested, I can give you the specific products I use. But whatever you choose, PLEASE use the best microfiber towels--ones that are specific for their intended use. For example, I have microfiber towels for buffing, polishing, quick detailing, some specific for glass, etc.

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Also depends on the color of your color. First wash with Dawn dish soap. the clay, then wash again. If you have a dark color and the dealer left you with swirl marks from cheap towels then you may need to polish before waxing.

 

I prefer Zaino products which for me ends up being an all day project for 3 layers but the look is awesome.

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Five bucks says you get nearly as many different recommendations as responses. I'd suggest finding a product line like Griots, Meguiars, or Mothers and following their recommended regimen.

 

I'm sure you are right on this one. I have always used Meguiars yellow 100% carnuba liquid and had good results with it. I was just looking to see if there may be something better. I have never done it in multiple steps from the clay/polish/wax angle before.

You said you're taking delivery, if your talking a new delivery, do you really want to clay it right out of the gate?

 

With the claying thing right out of the gate, from what I have read, Its the best way to insure a containment free base for polish and wax, so I thought this would be a good way to go. color is race red.

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any other ideas/ opinions?

 

 

Been using Liquid Glass forever. Easy to use, unlike some other products, and multiple coats just keep building up. It is the only polish on the market that likes the heat. It cures and get harder in the heat. Other waxes, silicones, and polymers all break down in the heat. Use the Liquid Glass Pre-Cleaner only once to prepare the surface. After that, just the polish. I have over 60 coats on my 2001 Ram and it looks like new. 12 coats on the Shelby so far. It only takes about 45 minutes to do the whole car. I also use it on the glass (except the wind shield). Take a look at the 97 reviews given this product on Amazon:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Glass-LG-100-Ultimate-Polish/product-reviews/B0002JMIEK/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_link_1?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=0

 

Here is where you can get both the pre-cleaner and polish:

 

http://www.autobarn.net/liqglascarca.html

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If you have a car that doesnt need claying why do it ? You can check the finish by puting your hand in a sandwhich baggie and gently moving it over the suface. you will feel the contamenents if they are there . You also probably will only need to do the horizontal surfaces . I have been using Klasse high gloss sealant and Blackfire Wet Diamond . Very shiny with good protection .They also like to be layered . Adams makes high quality products too.

Machine polishing after claying when new is a neccesary step for max gloss .

Have Fun

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IMO...You are so WRONG to CLAY BAR a brand new car.......Surface is already proctected...Just use a good WASH SOAP and then a Good detailer to BRIGHTEN up the SHINE...CLAY BAR is for vehicles that have been EXPOSED to the outside elements for awhile.....If you want something SPECIAL THen contact a professional DETAILER and get your SHELBY ...WET SANDED...Most BRILLANT FINISh and REMOVES ALL PAINT CONTAMINATES and lasts for YEARS.....IMO....Also Clay barring the top of vehicles is WRONG....USE a pROFESSIONAL POLISHER to remove SWIRLES and SCRATCHES...Clay bar the sides of the vehicle to REMOVE ..BRAKE DUST AND ROAD GRIME........REMEBER there is a BIG difference between a BUFFER and a POLISHER.....BRUCE

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All y'all are wrong. Down to bare metal and respray - right off the train. :)

 

should i remove the stripes, then hit it with the DA sander, or tape off the stripes? Man this is going to be great! will have to wear sunglasses in the shade when i look at it. Madlock rules. Before svt13 asks, will sanding the paint off increase NVH?

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should i remove the stripes, then hit it with the DA sander, or tape off the stripes? Man this is going to be great! will have to wear sunglasses in the shade when i look at it. Madlock rules. Before svt13 asks, will sanding the paint off increase NVH?

 

 

:yup: No paint = more NVH.

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when i get the car, i will video the inside while driving, then i will strip off all of the paint and re-video for any increase in NVH. i've gone on other forums and used other screen names, asked all the same questions, then PM'D all the responding members to death asking the same questions yet again. I'm closing in on making up my mind. just waiting for documentation so i know wether or not i should do it. stay tuned. Oh one last question, will this void my warranty?

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Been using Liquid Glass forever. Easy to use, unlike some other products, and multiple coats just keep building up. It is the only polish on the market that likes the heat. It cures and get harder in the heat. Other waxes, silicones, and polymers all break down in the heat. Use the Liquid Glass Pre-Cleaner only once to prepare the surface. After that, just the polish. I have over 60 coats on my 2001 Ram and it looks like new. 12 coats on the Shelby so far. It only takes about 45 minutes to do the whole car. I also use it on the glass (except the wind shield). Take a look at the 97 reviews given this product on Amazon:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Glass-LG-100-Ultimate-Polish/product-reviews/B0002JMIEK/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_link_1?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=0

 

Here is where you can get both the pre-cleaner and polish:

 

http://www.autobarn.net/liqglascarca.html

 

 

The problem is with this product is I can't even buy it to try it. (Precleaner)

 

"NOTE: Not available for sale in the state of California. Non-CARB compliant"

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when i get the car, i will video the inside while driving, then i will strip off all of the paint and re-video for any increase in NVH. i've gone on other forums and used other screen names, asked all the same questions, then PM'D all the responding members to death asking the same questions yet again. I'm closing in on making up my mind. just waiting for documentation so i know wether or not i should do it. stay tuned. Oh one last question, will this void my warranty?

 

 

No, no, no.

 

FIRST, you drain all the oil. It's only in there for shipping purposes anyway and just adds extra weight (and NVH).

 

NEXT you rev it as high as you can while keeping the clutch 30% depressed. The red illuminated area of the tach is the "safe" zone and you never want to dip below it.

 

THEN you strip the paint, do the hokey pokey and start your NVH analysis, but not without FIRST doing the same with the car turned-off to establish an empirical baseline.

 

Lather, rinse, repeat.

 

(Just install your Watts Link first)

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No, no, no. FIRST, you drain all the oil. It's only in there for shipping purposes anyway and just adds extra weight (and NVH).

I heard the oil was to prevent rust in the motor while sitting in the rain for prolonged periods on Ramp 51. I could be wrong, but that's what the rumors say.

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The problem is with this product is I can't even buy it to try it. (Precleaner)

 

"NOTE: Not available for sale in the state of California. Non-CARB compliant"

 

 

Sorry about that. That's what you get for living in the Peoples Republic of California. I recommend moving to FL. I will check with our local UPS office tomorrow. If I can legally do so, I will buy some Pre-Cleaner and ship it to you at no charge (if you PM me your address). Just doing my part to roll back the rising tide of Communism that is overtaking this country.

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Sorry about that. That's what you get for living in the Peoples Republic of California. I recommend moving to FL. I will check with our local UPS office tomorrow. If I can legally do so, I will buy some Pre-Cleaner and ship it to you at no charge (if you PM me your address). Just doing my part to roll back the rising tide of Communism that is overtaking this country.

 

 

Hell, most farts aren't CARB compliant nowadays - unless you've paid off Sacramento in advance. Lived in SoCal for 7 years and, despite loving the area, I just couldn't stand a government located farther away than most European countries are from one another handing down one asinine edict after another intended to find the maximum point at which people pay-up rather than pack-up. They got MY decision back around '01.

 

So. What do I do? Marry a woman from the Democratic People's Republic of New Jersey - where everything is based upon being a nickel cheaper than Manhattan. Can't win for losing.

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Hell, most farts aren't CARB compliant nowadays - unless you've paid off Sacramento in advance. Lived in SoCal for 7 years and, despite loving the area, I just couldn't stand a government located farther away than most European countries are from one another handing down one asinine edict after another intended to find the maximum point at which people pay-up rather than pack-up. They got MY decision back around '01.

 

So. What do I do? Marry a woman from the Democratic People's Republic of New Jersey - where everything is based upon being a nickel cheaper than Manhattan. Can't win for losing.

 

 

Bring her down here to the free state of FL. One of the last bastions of freedom left!

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