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shelby fays2 or griggs "quiet" watts link


svt13

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So after some research it seems a watts link is what cures this ass whip around over bumps this shelby has. My question is though which watts link is better? Do either require any special modifications like removing rear sway bars, welding, or anything else? Also which one increases NVH? If they both do which one increases it less?

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I was skeptical too, but I went with the Fays2. It come with rubber o-rings that get placed between the rod-ends and their attachment points to help eliminate NVH. If I have everything turned off inside the car I can hear it work when in a parking lot or something, but when cruising on the freeway...I don't notice it. If you have the tunes on...then I don't hear anything ;)

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I was skeptical too, but I went with the Fays2. It come with rubber o-rings that get placed between the rod-ends and their attachment points to help eliminate NVH. If I have everything turned off inside the car I can hear it work when in a parking lot or something, but when cruising on the freeway...I don't notice it. If you have the tunes on...then I don't hear anything ;)

 

 

Is it a squeaking or rattling type noise? Someone told me the griggs sounds loke a wrench is stuck in the car with all the rattling it does.

Also does it increase ride stiffness?

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I have had a Fay's 2 on my 06 since it was new in 06. Installed three days after my first experience with a bounce to the left mid-corner.

 

My 350 left Vegas with one installed. Set up correctly, a Fay's will greatly improve handling and ride. Minimal noise increase is greatly outweighed by the benefits.

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I have had a Fay's 2 on my 06 since it was new in 06. Installed three days after my first experience with a bounce to the left mid-corner.

 

My 350 left Vegas with one installed. Set up correctly, a Fay's will greatly improve handling and ride. Minimal noise increase is greatly outweighed by the benefits.

 

 

So since you installed yours on a new car, did you have any other suspension mods before it? And right after install what differences did you notice? Since my car is also new with zero suspension modifications I am just wondering. As far as difference how did it feel turning and going over bumps and what exactly kind of minimal noises were you hearing? Squeaking? Rattling? Clunking? Some have told me if I keep the heim joins lubed it won't make any noise at all.

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So since you installed yours on a new car, did you have any other suspension mods before it? And right after install what differences did you notice? Since my car is also new with zero suspension modifications I am just wondering. As far as difference how did it feel turning and going over bumps and what exactly kind of minimal noises were you hearing? Squeaking? Rattling? Clunking? Some have told me if I keep the heim joins lubed it won't make any noise at all.

 

 

Both cars are lowered with FRPP K springs, Tokico D Specs, lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets. The 06 has stock rear sway bar and 350 has Eibach rear bar.

 

You are correct, keeping the heim joints lubed is important. The minimal noise I am referring to is the heim joints working over severe speed bumps. As a rule Fays are very quiet compared to Griggs and others.

 

Three link with panhard bar rear suspensions are pretty easy to get both springs working at the same time under spirited cornering. High speed sweeping turns can get a little concerning near the limit. Watt's links allow the springs to operate more independently. Not quite IRS but close under normal driving.

 

Keep in mind, the Watt's set up is paramount. They must be installed and set up with the suspension loaded - on a drive-on lift. Installing on a two post will result in a very messed up geometry.

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Both cars are lowered with FRPP K springs, Tokico D Specs, lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets. The 06 has stock rear sway bar and 350 has Eibach rear bar.

 

You are correct, keeping the heim joints lubed is important. The minimal noise I am referring to is the heim joints working over severe speed bumps. As a rule Fays are very quiet compared to Griggs and others.

 

Three link with panhard bar rear suspensions are pretty easy to get both springs working at the same time under spirited cornering. High speed sweeping turns can get a little concerning near the limit. Watt's links allow the springs to operate more independently. Not quite IRS but close under normal driving.

 

Keep in mind, the Watt's set up is paramount. They must be installed and set up with the suspension loaded - on a drive-on lift. Installing on a two post will result in a very messed up geometry.

 

 

Yea essentially I'm trying to get this car to handle like an IRS since going fast over bumps scare me slightly since the back end whips out. And I'm not even talking about at the limit. This crap happens at 30mph turns on the street if I accelerate at all in the turn.

 

I don't know what a 2 post lift is. I have a shop that does all my mods. But the lifts they have you drive over it and they slide the stuff underneath and push the button and the car goes up. And I don't know what suspension loaded means either.

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Yea essentially I'm trying to get this car to handle like an IRS since going fast over bumps scare me slightly since the back end whips out. And I'm not even talking about at the limit. This crap happens at 30mph turns on the street if I accelerate at all in the turn.

 

I don't know what a 2 post lift is. I have a shop that does all my mods. But the lifts they have you drive over it and they slide the stuff underneath and push the button and the car goes up. And I don't know what suspension loaded means either.

 

If you want to have your car handle like it has an IRS then put one in . You will not get that from a three link solid axle set up which is on the car . Maybe you might want to change the tires first to improve the grip. What suggestions are the guys at the shop that you use suggesting to you ?(1000+ post in only 4 months - I might have to check you into a 12 step program svt13 :poke: )
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If you want to have your car handle like it has an IRS then put one in . You will not get that from a three link solid axle set up which is on the car . Maybe you might want to change the tires first to improve the grip. What suggestions are the guys at the shop that you use suggesting to you ?(1000+ post in only 4 months - I might have to check you into a 12 step program svt13 :poke: )

 

 

I post a lot because I want to learn lol. I made so many mistakes modifying my last car I literally wanted to just throw it out. I'm shocked I sold it to someone for what I paid for it. This car is a completely different animal and my first SRA car. So its a learning experience. But what I don't want to do is spend my money then spend more money to undo crap I did wrong the first time. I want to get it right so its less hassle and effort. I really am not doing much to this car but the things I am doing cost A LOT for me at least. I would just ask the people that sell this stuff but they always say their parts are the best blah blah blah. I need real world experience and opinions not someone trying to sell me their crap.

 

But you may be right about the 12 step program I definitely got the mod addiction haha. If it wasn't for the warranty problem my car would have like 900 hp by now. And as far as the IRS none are made for this. If ford keeps this body style like in the spy shots and then puts an IRS in it, you bet I will be getting that IRS to swap it into my car but that may not happen for 3-4 years if they don't do a shelby right away and no gurantee that it will even work. Or it may cost too much for the conversion. So if the watts link gets me pretty damn close to the point I don't have to fear for my life when having fun then I will do it.

 

My shop thinks I should put 300 hp in this car, griggs race suspension, and turn it into a track car and go nuts with it because thats what they would all do with it.

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Hi - my name is Albino 500 and I am a Shelby / Mustang mod addict .

Can I offer you an opinion or 2 for you and your car ? 1) There is no substitute for seat time - get out and drive it - the more you do will help in getting a better understanding of how well you and the car will/can work or play together. 2) Drive other cars similar to yours and allow others with cars similar to yours to drive your car and give feed back ( scary I know - choose wisely ) 3) make only 1 change at a time and give yourself enough time to absorb the change so you learn from what you have done before moving onto the next change - some stack too many on top of another that they create more problems than they had before by covering up the original problem ( fix the problem don't just throw something in there and cover the problem - it will still be there ). Would hate to see you throw away good money on suspension components if all you have is a tire problem - right ?

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Yea essentially I'm trying to get this car to handle like an IRS since going fast over bumps scare me slightly since the back end whips out. And I'm not even talking about at the limit. This crap happens at 30mph turns on the street if I accelerate at all in the turn.

 

I don't know what a 2 post lift is. I have a shop that does all my mods. But the lifts they have you drive over it and they slide the stuff underneath and push the button and the car goes up. And I don't know what suspension loaded means either.

 

 

A two post lifts the frame and the wheels and suspension are not supported. A drive on or 4 post lift raises the car completely with the wheels and suspension weighted or loaded. It sounds like your shop has a two post lift and you cannot properly install the Watt's link on that kind of lift.

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Hi - my name is Albino 500 and I am a Shelby / Mustang mod addict .

Can I offer you an opinion or 2 for you and your car ? 1) There is no substitute for seat time - get out and drive it - the more you do will help in getting a better understanding of how well you and the car will/can work or play together. 2) Drive other cars similar to yours and allow others with cars similar to yours to drive your car and give feed back ( scary I know - choose wisely ) 3) make only 1 change at a time and give yourself enough time to absorb the change so you learn from what you have done before moving onto the next change - some stack too many on top of another that they create more problems than they had before by covering up the original problem ( fix the problem don't just throw something in there and cover the problem - it will still be there ). Would hate to see you throw away good money on suspension components if all you have is a tire problem - right ?

 

 

This is good advice. I plan on doing everything one thing at a time. I really don't want to touch this car though. But just some parts of it bother me so I have to fix them.

 

As far as tire problems a 650 watts link is much cheaper than new tires all around lol. I want to stick with the goodyears till they run their life then I will put michelins sport cup like the corvettes have on there.

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A two post lifts the frame and the wheels and suspension are not supported. A drive on or 4 post lift raises the car completely with the wheels and suspension weighted or loaded. It sounds like your shop has a two post lift and you cannot properly install the Watt's link on that kind of lift.

 

 

So a 4 post lift essentially is like a ramp you drive the car on and it lifts everything? So by loaded suspension I am guessing how the suspension sits when the car is for example sitting normally on the street with the force of gravity on the wheels? As oppose to a lift that lifts the car up by the rocker panels which makes it so there is no force or pressure being put on the wheels?

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Try taking a professional driving school ... where instructors speak and students listen.

 

 

I have a guy who did Nascar whose going to be teaching me starting this weekend. He also recommended the watts link or just don't hit the gass while I turn. Other suspension mods he would suggest would be in the realms of things I'm not willing to do to this car.

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I have a guy who did Nascar whose going to be teaching me starting this weekend. He also recommended the watts link or just don't hit the gass while I turn. Other suspension mods he would suggest would be in the realms of things I'm not willing to do to this car.

 

Have him drive the car - watch out he may tell you to buy tires when he's done ! :doh:
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After I installed the Fays2 in mine it felt like i put 200 lbs in the trunk. It's weird. I did like everyone else and moved it down 1 notch from the center...never drove it any other way, so can't comment on how it felt there. I'm also running the FRPP suspension, so it's a bit lower too. I have no complaints and would do it again. If you shop around you can pick one up under $650. I didn't want red under my car and was able to find a black one for $400.

 

However, I did mine on ramps in the garage. Just used a level and followed the instructions to a "t" - the level became my best friend. The only thing is that you have to have a couple of big wrenches for the propellor bolt/nut and the bolts at the rod-end/axle clamp attachment. Otherwise, it's not a hard job to really do yourself.

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I just order the Steeda sport springs and Shelby Fays2 watts link for my 2013 GT500, Is there any words of advise for me when installing this bad boy? I hope to maybe do it this weekend. Thanks.

 

 

Ok zero. I'll wait till you give your input on this before I buy it. Apprently just make sure the Watts link is greased up at helms and install it with the suspension loaded and make sure the links are parallel to everything. But all of these directions come with it I believe. Jim fays sent me a packet with directions that had pictures and all the super important stuff was in big bold red letters. Also he said drive it 2 miles after install to see, then 25 and re check, then 100 re chec, then 500 recheck, then you only have to recheck and lube every oil change.

 

Also if its possible could you puts the watts link on before the springs? That way we can see how the watts link changes ride quality if at all. That would be really awesome if you can do that then do watts link with springs and comment on that.

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I need to find a place to get the manual online so I can have everything ready to install. I know the basics. I was wondering if someone had any issues that I might run into and how I can make this as seemless as possible.

 

I most likely will not be able to get the watts link on first as I have to put the springs on and let them settle for a day or two to make sure the geometry is right when putting on the watts link. Plus I can do the springs in my garage. I have to go to a buddies house to get on a 4 post lift.

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I need to find a place to get the manual online so I can have everything ready to install. I know the basics. I was wondering if someone had any issues that I might run into and how I can make this as seemless as possible.

 

I most likely will not be able to get the watts link on first as I have to put the springs on and let them settle for a day or two to make sure the geometry is right when putting on the watts link. Plus I can do the springs in my garage. I have to go to a buddies house to get on a 4 post lift.

 

 

Email Jim Fays. He will send you what he sent me. Ok well after you do the springs see how ride stiffness is effected since you have a pp car like me. I haven't seen anyone with a PP car do springs yet. And then watts link and see if it effects it further. That way if there is no change then we know the watts link didn't effect the ride stiffness. But yea as far as other problems besides what I mentioned people had sway bar problems but that is fixed by the model watts link you got. The ones people had problems with had 7 notches the shelby one is much shorter with 3.

 

You shouldn't have any problems besides maybe getting everything parralel.

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Email Jim Fays. He will send you what he sent me. Ok well after you do the springs see how ride stiffness is effected since you have a pp car like me. I haven't seen anyone with a PP car do springs yet. And then watts link and see if it effects it further. That way if there is no change then we know the watts link didn't effect the ride stiffness. But yea as far as other problems besides what I mentioned people had sway bar problems but that is fixed by the model watts link you got. The ones people had problems with had 7 notches the shelby one is much shorter with 3.

 

You shouldn't have any problems besides maybe getting everything parralel.

 

 

I never noticed that before. The Shelby piece IS shorter than the standard Fays2 piece. From my "eye-balling" the available pic's it looks like the lowest setting on the Shelby piece is just about where the center notch is on the Fays. I'm running mine 1 notch below center on the Fays piece. The Shelby one can't go that low. Looking at it it makes sense that the Shelby piece doesn't interfere with the rear sway as the bar hits the bottom of the "tubing" of the standard Fays. The logic in the Shelby piece seems to be to have a little more rear roll center height and use a sway bar to adjust instead of lowering the rear roll center height and lose the rear sway bar.

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