07SGT5687 Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/z13-s7sb-20201-a.htm Pretty sure I know the answer, but I had to ask... would love for some one to make my day and tell me it will fit!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 nope, will not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 I'm pretty sure it will not work with the stock hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoDakMac Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 Nope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Dennis Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 You don't need no stinkin' strut brace mon. It's there for looks. I have seen racing Boss 302s that don't have strut braces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Adjustable engine mounts! !! I bought a set of profane billets and cut off an inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 You don't need no stinkin' strut brace mon. It's there for looks. I have seen racing Boss 302s that don't have strut braces. Truth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Adjustable engine mounts! !! I bought a set of profane billets and cut off an inch. Ya, but I don't want to rattle my fillings our the other 95% of the time I drive it on the street! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I drive my Shelby every day the vibration is minimum at idle. Driving you see no difference! ! But with the hotrod cams it rocks nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I drive my Shelby every day the vibration is minimum at idle. Driving you see no difference! ! But with the hotrod cams it rocks nicely. I agree.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 You don't need no stinkin' strut brace mon. It's there for looks. I have seen racing Boss 302s that don't have strut braces. I don't know if a brace provides much benefit, but it's not as simple as saying the BOSS 302s doesn't use one so your street driven Mustang/Shelby/BOSS doesn't need one. The BOSS 302s and the 302R (and the FR500's before them) have a full cage and welded seams making for a very stiff structure which may negate the need for a brace on those cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoDakMac Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 The Boss 302 does have a strut brace. I am not sure about the Boss 302R. I have not noticed any difference with the SGT and no brace but I have not tracked the car either. I would have liked to keep the brace just for its looks if nothing else but that was not possible unless you lowered the engine. The newer Mustangs have the "power dome" hood, which I assume would provide the room needed if you supercharged the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 You don't need no stinkin' strut brace mon. It's there for looks. I have seen racing Boss 302s that don't have strut braces. What about the convertibles...do you think the extra support up front helps given the fact that there is no roof support/rigidity for the middle of the vehicle like the hardtops have? Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 What about the convertibles...do you think the extra support up front helps given the fact that there is no roof support/rigidity for the middle of the vehicle like the hardtops have? Andy. Without putting the car in a 'rack' and shacking/twisting the chassis all evidence claiming one way or the other is anecdotal. I know guys with drop tops who swear its unnecessary, but I'm of the camp that by mid-cycle thru the 1st gen S197 production run (about the time the SGT was introduced) Ford didn't just bolt on structural and aero bits for giggles. Bottom line, it's the owners preferance. The S197 chassis is light years ahead in ridgidity over prior models and you are unlikely to notice a difference without the brace, but that doesn't mean it isn't beneficial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 No those strut tower braces will not fit. But, and I have mentioned this before, why not do as they did in the 60's. This picture appears at the top of the Shelby forum. http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/gallery/image/8395-jon-kaase-racing-engine-boss-466/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 No those strut tower braces will not fit. But, and I have mentioned this before, why not do as they did in the 60's. This picture appears at the top of the Shelby forum. http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/gallery/image/8395-jon-kaase-racing-engine-boss-466/ Because....... http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/71688-new-old-idea-for-strut-tower-brace/page__p__1229071__hl__+brace%20+__fromsearch__1#entry1229071 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Because....... http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/71688-new-old-idea-for-strut-tower-brace/page__p__1229071__hl__+brace%20+__fromsearch__1#entry1229071 Well... Those guys said a lot. Bottom line is when at the track, my most difficult aspect is getting the front tires to plant. And with my old 05 GT I used to take this particular cloverleaf every single morning in the way to work. It was my little entertainment every morning to see how hard I could push it around that corner. I got a wild hair one day and ordered an STB. Tried it again after install and was AMAZED at how much harder I could take that cloverleaf. Say what you all say but if you DRIVE you car hard, they ARE beneficial. Which is why I continue to hunt for one that will fit. I'm to the point now where I'm tempted to have someone fab one up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Just buy the damn adjust engine mount and be done with already. By dropping the engine will give you a lower center of gravity and better handling. I did the drop for 2 reasons one is that my strut brace is painted to match the exterior paint. The second for tower strength and from doing a little research. They state are towers are weak and prone to flex. They have strut brace that you can adjust to put more force on the towers. Also read its also a good thing to add a brace off the firewall to the towers. That will keep increase overall flexing. Then you can buy or make an adjustable bar for your rear shocks. That will also tighten the shocks from any flexing and on my car. I braced the chassis tunnel in front of transmission and a brace at the end of the tunnel. That is where you mount the driveshaft loop. You can also weld up a thick sheet metal to the towers. I read that somewhere which makes sense that the towers are not strong. Plus every little bit helps in my eyes! !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 You don't need no stinkin' strut brace mon. It's there for looks. I have seen racing Boss 302s that don't have strut braces. Can't compare: They have extra welds on their body. They have full roll cage. They are 2012 frames. That's a whole difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Just buy the damn adjust engine mount and be done with already. By dropping the engine will give you a lower center of gravity and better handling. I did the drop for 2 reasons one is that my strut brace is painted to match the exterior paint. The second for tower strength and from doing a little research. They state are towers are weak and prone to flex. They have strut brace that you can adjust to put more force on the towers. Also read its also a good thing to add a brace off the firewall to the towers. That will keep increase overall flexing. Then you can buy or make an adjustable bar for your rear shocks. That will also tighten the shocks from any flexing and on my car. I braced the chassis tunnel in front of transmission and a brace at the end of the tunnel. That is where you mount the driveshaft loop. You can also weld up a thick sheet metal to the towers. I read that somewhere which makes sense that the towers are not strong. Plus every little bit helps in my eyes! !! Well, like I said, before. My car is driven 98% on the street, though tracked often. I don't want the additional vibration and noise from the lowered mounts - unless that is not true. As for the firewall strut brace, I didn't know there was a point to mount to our our firewalls - I was told they are not structural. And while additional bracing is probably very helpful - again - I do not want to modify the car beyond what can be removed back to original state. And let's not start the whole "get over it, it's not going to be worth anything" conversation... Regardless, that's what I've decided. SOOOO... Unless someone convinces me that the lowered mounts do not affect ride comfort, OR I decide to do an aftermarket hood (unlikely), I'll just keep hunting for a strut brace that may work... as fruitless as the hunt may be. I really think someone needs to figure out how to fab one though... seems like the market is there for such a piece! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Well, like I said, before. My car is driven 98% on the street, though tracked often. I don't want the additional vibration and noise from the lowered mounts - unless that is not true. As for the firewall strut brace, I didn't know there was a point to mount to our our firewalls - I was told they are not structural. And while additional bracing is probably very helpful - again - I do not want to modify the car beyond what can be removed back to original state. And let's not start the whole "get over it, it's not going to be worth anything" conversation... Regardless, that's what I've decided. SOOOO... Unless someone convinces me that the lowered mounts do not affect ride comfort, OR I decide to do an aftermarket hood (unlikely), I'll just keep hunting for a strut brace that may work... as fruitless as the hunt may be. I really think someone needs to figure out how to fab one though... seems like the market is there for such a piece! I have the Lethal industries poly mounts on mine, they were installed to help the longer snout (due to the 10rib) on the SC clear the hood insulation. When I first got in and started I felt the vibration and realized it wasn't that bad. As stated before you only feel it at an idle. I would suggest checking around where you live and see if someone close by has the poly mounts on their car so you can witness the vibration. Now I still cannot get the "stock" strut bar on mine, but I have not tried any of the others that are available. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 I am convincing you that you can do the drop with no crazy vibrations. I used the Prothane billet mounts and they are not solid. I just cut a 1/2 inch off which made my strut bar clear the ford racing intake manifold. With space to spare! !! I drive my car 100% on the street with no issues. I have my car braced up and even run my neutral idle at a lower rpm for more rocking and thumping. If you feel my advice and feed back is not weigh much. I have more than enough back ground in automotive tech training from school to ford and government. I don't replace part but rebuild the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 The motor mounts alone are not going to be enough. Gotta drop k member too for the whipple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 If you feel my advice and feed back is not weigh much. I have more than enough back ground in automotive tech training from school to ford and government. I don't believe I said anything to that affect, but thank you for your advice regardless. I was simply stating that the mounts are not a direction I'd prefer to go from what I've been told of the results. Especially if they STB still won't clear the Whipple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 If I am correct the Ford racing intake is taller than the Whipple. I will try and measure the height off of mine. I did not mean anything by stating my background. We have a lot of backyard mechanics on here which is great. But some us have the experience and knowledge to give a better advice. Any mods done to my car is gone over. The reason for that is find out how to make that mod work better. But with are car body is a one in all frame andin bracing will help with vibrations. I also did my doors and floor boards with sound deaden and undercoated the underside of body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Height of your ford racing intake doesn't matter that much, the problem is the intake tube on the driver side that runs to the back of the whipple mostly. Your intake feeds from the front, completely different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Height of your ford racing intake doesn't matter that much, the problem is the intake tube on the driver side that runs to the back of the whipple mostly. Your intake feeds from the front, completely different. yup! I did see a strut brace that had some kind of hump on the drivers side to help clear that, but I'm told even that doesn't fit. Maybe it would with the engine drop though. And ok... for the SAKE OF CONVERSATION... how extensive of a job is dropping the motors mounts? And does it affect any other components? Does it drop your tranny lower too? And DS? Rear end pinion angle, etc.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard m.switzer Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 With the number of people doing SC's and FR intakes on the 4.6 motor ,you would think Ford or Shelby would make a brace that would work on the stock engine ,the way it is ,I've seen a few custom FR braces that look nice ,and they say the back brace bar is that only bar that hits ,so all you have to do is reset the rear brace bar up alittle to clear it ,ya ,reweld it ,bend up ,,it can be done ,,I've seen it .,,just saying . B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 ,it can be done ,,I've seen it .,,just saying . B) PICS OR BAN! j/k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard m.switzer Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 PICS OR BAN! j/k ,as you wish my friend ,,this is on a 2008 Blue Shelby GT ,,,,the brace is a FR one that came on the car ,but the back bar has been re-done / moved alittle . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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