Afdharley Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 Installing some new suspension parts this weekend. New struts and shocks and eibach pro springs with MM c/c plates. Instructions with the c/c plates say an alignment is necessary after install. What has been others experience with alignment? Can I expect it to be pretty close? Or way out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 It WILL be off - GO directly to an alignment shop - don't pass go - don't collect $200 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 Ok. Would I be safe taking it back to the dealership for this or should I find a specialty shop to do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 You would be better off at a specialty shop if there is one close to you - If you like here is a suggested setting - use them if you choose - Negative 1.2 degrees camber , max positive caster on the right side with a half degree less on the driver's side ( to compensate for road crown ) and 1/16" total toe IN . That should give you good drive ability and handling with even tire wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 Thank you for the info. I'll start,looking for a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 Got the alignment done this morning. Either the shop doesn't know what they are doing or something else is up, because they could not get the specs you recommended to work. They said they would have to drill holes or some crap! At that point I said STOP. Just go with factory specs and I'll be fine. It drives great and I'm happy with it as is. I'd like to find a shop that deals with these cars and see if they have a different opinion. But till then I'm good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Dennis Posted August 18, 2012 Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 "they would have to drill holes or some crap!" I had a good shop tell me that even with the MM C/C plates they needed to elongate the hole in the car to get the right settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 That's exactly what this shop said. I told them to just use the factory specs and not drill anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Grey Posted August 18, 2012 Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 My shop said that 1 degree +/- would be worth $60 some odd $'s of Fast Cam bolts to fix it. But then he knows that I don't race or put all that many miles on it (said they would probably dry rot before the needed to be replaced). He felt that the small change would not cause much wear in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 They tried to sell me some cam bolts also, along with the drilling. Something like $350 to get the specs albino500 recommended. I said no, just get me close.......it ended up at $78. Drives great and I'm happy with the set up. Just not happy with that shop so I'll have to find another place for future use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 They tried to sell me some cam bolts also, along with the drilling. Something like $350 to get the specs albino500 recommended. I said no, just get me close.......it ended up at $78. Drives great and I'm happy with the set up. Just not happy with that shop so I'll have to find another place for future use. Afdharley - you did the right thing - there is no hole drilling bs needed to be done and getting the hell out of there was the best thing you could of done - $78. to get it in the ball park is fine for now and if it drives fine - leave it - just check your tire wear periodically . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 Yea, it's all good for now. They said watch for wear due to the toe setting. I'll just keep an eye on it and in the mean time look for another shop for future use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 They pull out the 'drilling' or 'elongating the strut bolt holes' BS because it's what the Ford Tech Manual calls for. With either the cam bolts or camber plates this is not be necessary if installed properly. If there are any local tracks in your area give them a call and see if they can recomend a suspension and alignment shop. The guys that cater to track rats are the ones who now how to correctly set up your car for your driving needs. The dealer or any corner alignment shop only knows what some tech guide tells them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 Good advice. Thanks. I'll keep looking. This place was recommended by a race shop so I assumed they would ave a clue. When they brought out computer print offs that suggested drilling I knew I was in trouble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 Here's the specs after they did the alignment. If you guys see anything terribly wrong let me know. This is still all Greek to me. Front Left. Camber : -0.9* Caster : 7.6* Toe : 0.09* Front Right Camber : -1.7* Caster : 7.2* Toe : 0.09* Front Cross Camber : 0.8* Cross Caster : 0.4* Cross Toe : 0.18* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 The right side camber is too much - what they should of done was loosen the 2 strut bolts on the right side and with the car in the air pulled out at the strut to take up any play in the holes and /or loosen the left side while the car was down on the rack to allow the weight of the car to push in thus giving you more negative camber on the left and less on the right . The toe is total toe not cross toe - the cross toe is zero - which is a little heavy but is ok and is toe in ( because it is a positive number - not negative which is toe out ). Question - what was the SAI readings for both right and left fronts ? The caster spread (or cross as mentioned here ) is going the wrong way ( the vehicle will have a tendency to go to the side with the least amount of caster) but is being compensated by the more negative camber of the right side . Overall one would question whether the front subframe is centered onto the unibody . SAI is a secondary angle and would verify this . Didn't you put on MM caster/camber plates already ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 Yes, MM c/c plates are on. When I told them that they looked at me witha blank stare. SAI Left - 15.9* SAI Right -15.6* Cross SAI - 0.4* And yes, I miss typed. It should be total toe of 0.18*. So, do I need to find another shop and try again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 Yes, MM c/c plates are on. When I told them that they looked at me witha blank stare. SAI Left - 15.9* SAI Right -15.6* Cross SAI - 0.4* And yes, I miss typed. It should be total toe of 0.18*. So, do I need to find another shop and try again? YES Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 Yes, MM c/c plates are on. When I told them that they looked at me witha blank stare. So, do I need to find another shop and try again? The MM C/C plates offer enough adjustability to get the camber within spec. Sounds like the alignment tech just didn't know now to adjust the plates. Bring the instructions (see link) .. the tech should be able to figure it out. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/front_susp/Mm5CC-6.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 Here's the specs after they did the alignment. If you guys see anything terribly wrong let me know. This is still all Greek to me. Front Left. Camber : -0.9* Caster : 7.6* Toe : 0.09* Front Right Camber : -1.7* Caster : 7.2* Toe : 0.09* Front Cross Camber : 0.8* Cross Caster : 0.4* Cross Toe : 0.18* The higher caster on the left might make the car tend to wander to the right side. The MM C/C provides some castor adjustability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 In case any of you have some interest - check out Rapid-Racer.com and click on the "suspension tuning" for some explanations/definitions . If you are thinking about getting tires/wheels for your car also look under the tire section. Some good info for ya. JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afdharley Posted August 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 Thanks. I'll check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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