jfried Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 We don't offer custom lettering colors, as these are done in batches for us. What car and wheels do you have? I'll check fitment for you. Thanks, Jer Thanks Jer, Car is an 07, wheels are Weld Weld Racing BC 009 (also known as Evo Penza 5 SL) 19x8.5 up front, +45 offset if i recall correclty. They're not made anymore, so was hoping that there was a fitment diagram kicking around. Right now they'll need spacers 1/8" spacers I believe, in an ideal world I'd like to get rid of the spacers. Definitely won't go bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 I'll try to get you more fitment info from Wilwood for that setup. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVT NAJA Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Jer, Are you still planning a Spring sale on SPP Baer brake inventory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Jer, Are you still planning a Spring sale on SPP Baer brake inventory? Yup. What color/axle are you looking for? Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfried Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 I'll try to get you more fitment info from Wilwood for that setup. Jer Thanks Jer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Does someone use the frt&rear Shelby Wilwood brake kit ON THE TRACK and can report on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Thanks Jer. Still working on his. Stay tuned... Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Full info now posted on the new Instructions Page we're building. Eventually, this page will have data and installation instructions for LOTS of SPP stuff: http://info.shelbyamerican.com/Instructions/Wilwood Rear.pdf http://info.shelbyamerican.com/Instructions/Wilwood Fitment Front.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJSAF1 Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Will these brakes work with stock black Shelby Gt wheels? I'd also like to add a color choice of black with silver letters that match my black Shelby GT/SC or silver with black letters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffrey McCash 50962 Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 I just installed the entire Wilwood brake kit ( front and back). I have not done any track testing yet but will be soon. These brakes fit and look fantastic on the '12 SVT PP GT500. The only modification I still need to do is shave the sway bar ends just a bit for extra clearance from the rear rotors. Initial break in seems to be very noticeable on breaking feel. Attached is front pic, rear pic and full car pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 This is my next mod... Just wait'in on a SALE! Hint, hint.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Does someone use the frt&rear Shelby Wilwood brake kit ON THE TRACK and can report on it? +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Just got the rear brake kit in from Fed Ex (fronts will hopefully be here in a couple of weeks). Man these things are massive compared to the stock rear setup. Wilwood assured me the overhang was .001 inches greater than the stock caliper and will fit behind my deep dish wheels. Fingers are crossed and will post up when the install is complete for front and rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 We worked with Wilwood to develop this kit with SIGNIFICANT offset. In fact, if you have an aftermarket swaybar, you may need to trim the ends so they don't contact the inside of the rotors. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 We worked with Wilwood to develop this kit with SIGNIFICANT offset. In fact, if you have an aftermarket swaybar, you may need to trim the ends so they don't contact the inside of the rotors. Jer I've got the Shelby sway bar. Should I break out my cutting tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 I've got the Shelby sway bar. Should I break out my cutting tool? You should be OK. Just watch the back of the rotors when they go on, make sure there is clearance. If not, snip, snip. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 You should be OK. Just watch the back of the rotors when they go on, make sure there is clearance. If not, snip, snip. Jer How much clearance am I looking for? I would assume you want at least half an inch or more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 How much clearance am I looking for? I would assume you want at least half an inch or more. That's about right! Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffrey McCash 50962 Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 I had to trim the sway bar a bit on both sides to have ample clearance from the rear rotors. All is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 I really want the Wilwood front brakes. So I can sell my Baer ProPlus series to some person who does not track their car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svttim Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Love this thread. Now, if we can combine multiple responses into one document we would have a research paper. Lets see if my feeble brain can capture most of it Bigger rotors, given equal systems will resist fade better than smaller ones. the more pistons that are in a brake system do not necessarily directly correlate to shorter stopping distances All ABS is not created equally. (Ford has several different calibrations) Bigger brakes on the street are more for looks than for performance (depending on driver style) The stick axle is junk and Ford is way behind everybody else (this ignores a lot of fact of Fords on track success against highly modified IRS systems) Less weight is always a good thing, reducing unsprung weight is like have you cake and ice cream with it Not all big brake systems are built for racing use (different for occasional track days) Eh, too early in the morning for this What I have not seen was an in depth discussion regaurding fluids and pad compounds. I see these mentioned but very little discussion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Love this thread.... Less weight is always a good thing, reducing unsprung weight is like have you cake and ice cream with it What I have not seen was an in depth discussion regaurding fluids and pad compounds. I see these mentioned but very little discussion Cake and Ice Cream will produce more weight in my case. So will beer, pizza and everything else. Skater emoticon... couldn't resist. Brake Fluid: We went with DOT 5 on my car to resist heat. I figure for track days, that should do just fine. What have others done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svttim Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 If you can believe Wikipedia DOT 5 is one of several North American designations of automotive hydraulic brake fluid, denoting a particular mixture of chemicals imparting specified ranges of boiling point. DOT 5 is a silicone-based brake fluid (contains at least 70% by weight of a diorgano polysiloxane[1]). Unlike polyethylene glycol based fluids, it is hydrophobic. An advantage over other forms of brake fluid is that silicone has a more stable viscosity index over a wider temperature range. Another property is that it does not damage paint[citation needed]. Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or DOT 4 system without proper flushing will cause damage to the seals and cause brake failure[citation needed]. DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with anti-lock brake systems. DOT 5 brake fluid absorbs a small amount of air requiring care when bleeding the system of air.[citation needed] LCF 660 for the race car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 I found this response to a question regarding the use of DOT 5 on another forum: OK, folks, let's look at each of these 4 items. 1. Fluid compatibility with the brake system rubber, plastic and metal components.2. Water absorption and corrosion.3. Fluid boiling point and other physical characteristics.4. Brake system contamination and sludging.1. The critical item here is RUBBER. All brake fluids available today are compatible with every metal and plastic used in automotive brake systems since WWII. But natural rubber is a bitch. Anything other than silicone (aka DOT 5) brake fluid will eat away at natural rubber brake components (seals, boots, etc.). Guess what, Honda folks.... your brake systems do not contain natural rubber! In fact, natural rubber has not been part of the brake system of any car built after, say 1970 or so (I'm sure there are the rare exceptions, but let's agree that your Honda does NOT have natural rubber brake components, ok?). The bottom line is that if you are running a car under 30 years old, you may feel free to use ANY brake fluid you choose, from an equipment compatibility standpoint.2. DOT 5 Silicone fluid is the only brake fluid that does NOT absorb water. This is good and bad. If your brake system has been properly filled with 100% (not 99.5%) DOT 5 and properly bled (remember, air contains water), then you should be fine. But since most people like to cut corners, any mixture of glycol-based (DOT 3 or 4 or 5.1) brake fluids will quickly absorb that water and create bubbles that will, when the car sits, rust out your brake lines from the inside; and, when the car drives hard, possible cause a "vapor-lock" style brake failure.On the other hand, you could fill up your system with a glycol-based fluid, forget the silicone, and be just fine with whatever small amount of moisture happened to be in the lines, since it would dissolve throughout the whole system of fluid and only pose a problem if the proportion of water rose too high.3. Boiling point is only an issue for high-performance applications. Yes, DOT 5 has a higher b.p. than DOT 3 or 4, but its quirky properties make it not suitable for most people. No offense intended, but I don't think the average rice boy has the attention to detail required to run a car with silicone fluid. Use DOT 4 Castrol GT/LMA. It's by far the best performance to forgiveness trade-off.4. Contamination and sludging is going to be dependent on how well one flushes and maintains the system, not the fluid one uses. But as I said before, silicone fluid-- if allowed to mix with water-- will put all that water in one place in your system and potentially cause corrosion from the inside.The quote in the OP had some crazy statement about how silicone rubber parts "are attacked by silicon [sic] fluids." This is ridiculous. Silicone (which is not the same a "silicon") brake fluid is like Johnson's Baby Shampoo. It doesn't corrode anything, much less something else made of silicone. It's the only brake fluid that won't eat your paint if you happen to spill some.I'm no expert on brake fluid, but I'm fairly certain I'll be fine as the Wilwood system is by definition a high performance/racing application. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svttim Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Brake Fluid is rated by dry boiling point (for fluid fresh out of the bottle) and wet boiling point (for fluid saturated with moisture). If you bleed brakes frequently, the dry boiling point is most important. If you do not change your brake fluid often, the wet boiling point becomes more important. All of our fluids except AP600 will mix with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids. None of the fluids we carry are compatible with DOT 5 (silicone) fluids. Racing Brake Fluid Comparison Chart Brand Name DOTRating DryBoilingPoint WetBoilingPoint Compatible withConventionalBrake Fluids* QtyFl Oz PartNumber Motul RBF 660 4 617 399 Yes 16.9 MT660 AP PRF 600 4 608 311 Yes 16.9 3338-17oz Motul RBF 600 4 594 421 Yes 16.9 MT600 Castrol SRF 4 590 518 Yes 33.8 3343-Liter Prospeed RS683 4 583 394 Yes 16.9 3340-201 AP 600 n/a 572 284 * No * 16.9 3309-17oz AP 551 3 540 284 Yes 16.9 3305-17oz ATE Type 200 4 536 396 Yes 33.8 3327-Liter Castrol Advanced Performance(formerly GT-LMA) 4 509(was 446) 329 Yes 12 3308-12oz This chart talks about specific brake fluids. Sorry if this is hard to read, chart did not copy well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svttim Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 From what I researched, Dry boiling point for Dot 5 is in the 520 range Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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