Clutch drag TSB 4th revision - $1,438.18 if you have to pay for it

[OCD]

 

CYLINDER ASY - CLUTCH SLAVE - $165.33

Part #: DR3Z-7A508-A (was part# AR3Z7A508A)

Pack Qty: 1

 

BOLT - $2.01 each x 6 = $12.06

Part #: N808969S100

Pack Qty: 6 bolts needed

 

 

TUBE (hydrolic clutch line) - $53.23

Part #: AR3Z7A512A

Pack Qty: 1

 

 

BOLT - HEX.HEAD - $2.45 x 8 = $19.60

Part #: F6ZZ6379AA

Pack Qty: 8 bolts needed

 

 

 

Do I need to replace those parts too when I put a Mcleod RXT in my 09?

[vapor08GT500]

Alex, I got so used to compensating for the chatter of that old clutch by over revving and mastering the feather technique. Those days are over now that I have this new 2010 Ford clutch. Besides that I have not read about a single failure yet and it has been going in the cars for over 2 years now and also look at all the 2011 and 2012 cars that have this same clutch and no problems !Royal Purple is great fluid and makes the tranny feel so much smoother. I could tell right away that it made a difference. For those of you doing the clutch, you should bring your Ford Tech 4 quarts of Royal Purple Syncromash synthetic Manual transmission fluid. It is very easy for him to put in when the tranny is out or you can do it yourself when the tranny is in. It takes 3.65 Quarts of the fluid. Attached is the PDF file on how to change it. There is a drain plug and a fill plug. Don' forget to use the thread sealant when you put the plugs back.2007 GT500 Transmission drain & fill procedure.pdf

 

 

 

I know...we used to have to drive our cars a whole different way!! My 10 clutch went out on the dyno after the Kenne Bell. Have had 5 other failures on them, but all on cars making huge power. My rule of thumb is the 10 clutch is perfect for cars that will never get anything further than intake, tune, and pulley. Those that drag race, road race, or have aftermarket superchargers need to go with something stronger.

 

The Royal Purple is the best stuff for our trannys. Much smoother shifting, better protecting, and eliminates the notchiness when cold.

 

Alex

[Grabber]

Do I need to replace those parts too when I put a Mcleod RXT in my 09?

 

 

Yes...but Ford makes 2 Slave units. The one I have listed is much shorter than the original factory one because the 2010 Clutch is a much thicker unit. You will need to check and see which Slave cylinder the RXT would require. I'm not sure. The bolts are required on the Ford set up and may come with your new set up. As for the hydrolic line, the new one has a bigger inside diameter and is required for the 2010 Slave unit. Sorry I'm not sure what the RXT unit requires. Tommy Gun had that unit installed in his car...so you should ask him. Also BJ at VMP would know, he has that clutch.

[judgeman6970]

Thanks for all this great info, Grabber. Not sure if you ever mentioned this in another thread, but I was curious what warranty Ford covers this TSB work under, the 3/36 bumper-to-bumper, or the 5/60 powertrain?? I have a '09(about 3.5 years old with 4k miles) & was wondering if I could still get this work covered under my warranty?? BTW, I know how smooth the new clutch works, since I have it in my 2011 & I love it!!

[OCD]

Yes...but Ford makes 2 Slave units. The one I have listed is much shorter than the original factory one because the 2010 Clutch is a much thicker unit. You will need to check and see which Slave cylinder the RXT would require. I'm not sure. The bolts are required on the Ford set up and may come with your new set up. As for the hydrolic line, the new one has a bigger inside diameter and is required for the 2010 Slave unit. Sorry I'm not sure what the RXT unit requires. Tommy Gun had that unit installed in his car...so you should ask him. Also BJ at VMP would know, he has that clutch.

 

 

Thanks Grabby, I know the Mcloud uses the 07-09 slave cylinder... So I guess the line won't be needed!!

[Grabber]

Thanks for all this great info, Grabber. Not sure if you ever mentioned this in another thread, but I was curious what warranty Ford covers this TSB work under, the 3/36 bumper-to-bumper, or the 5/60 powertrain?? I have a '09(about 3.5 years old with 4k miles) & was wondering if I could still get this work covered under my warranty?? BTW, I know how smooth the new clutch works, since I have it in my 2011 & I love it!!

 

 

This is where things get kinda of complicated. The clutch is a wear item and not covered after 3 years or 36K. In fact some dealers say that they only cover the clutch for 12K miles. The flywheel is covered for 5 years / 60K miles. The flywheel is a big part of the root cause of the chatter because it does not dissipate the heat generated from the metallic clutch and it warps the flywheel. This causes chatter and premature clutch failure. If you go to the dealer armed with that information you have a good chance that they will cover it. Maybe not. It seems to be a crap shoot.

 

At least the repair is under $1,500 bucks and not over $5K like some dealers allude to.

[KiMO Racing]

First Grabber, thanks for the info, it was exactly how you described. I placed the order for "ALL" of the clutch components from Tasca Ford. Let me state clearly; these guys are polite and very knowledgeable. Second, I just fell victim to the "clutch" controversy which in my opinion is a black mark on Ford and the Ford tradition of "Quality Job 1". I'm not a ricky racer. Most of my travels are highway commuting miles with plenty of troopers around. At a nice forgiving age of 50 plus years, I enjoy the ride more than the throttle which I know some of you out there are saying what a waste of car. I'm not out to impress anyone, and my peers and I share similar interests, owning quite of few muscle collectors out there. It's unfortunate that my clutch decided to ends it's life at 19,000 miles. I bought the extended warranty pushing well past the 3/36 coverage like good old guys do when they have extra money to protect their assets; more importantly so as not to waste time. After all, time is money. I took it to the dealer and told them point blank, clutch is slipping. After a 15 minute interrogation about clutch anatomy 101, they stated it had to be diagnosed with a computer to be sure. I've driven a stick for over 30 years, from Duece and 1/2 trucks in the War to 5 speed Dodge Omnis, so I know when a clutch is going bad and this was no exception. Still didn't matter, they soaked me for a computer diagonistic test to trouble shoot a physical problem a test drive would have concluded. I'm still scratching my head over this one. I was told the cost of the test would be covered under the warranty as part of the clutch change. Turns out it was not covered because Ford considers this to be a wear item and neither the original warranty, nor the extended warranty, will cover it. So I'm out on two counts, no clutch repair and $99.13 for a computer test. If I knew upfront, time of sale, this particular clutch in question was only good for 19 or 20 thousand miles, I would have bought a 3rd extended wear item warranty offered by dealerships only at the time of sale. This type of warranty covers wear items like clutches, brakes, and even oil changes. You'd have to follow a strict maintenance schedule bringing it in when they say to in order to keep it valid, but they do it all. Truth is, most reasonable folks don't walk into a dealerships expecting a new car to wear out so fast, especially, a GT500 which by design symbolizes Ford excellence, pride, and power. If they did, by connecting the dots, e.g. Ford = high wear parts = excessive repair cost, they buy elsewhere and skip the whole warranty game. I'm disappointed, but not surprised.

Edited August 13, 2012 by KiMO Racing

[Grabber]

You will like the new clutch and it's driveability. Sorry you have to pay for it. I had to pay too. At least it is not an arm and a leg to get done. Who is doing the work ?

[KiMO Racing]

^{I have a friend who runs a shop. He's local and over 50 years in the auto business. He has a detailed eye for quality repair like your tech. Needless to say, he's up their in years. I too use to wrench on cars as a hobby from my normal day to day job as an aircraft Master Tech. Our fighters flew 2 and 3 times the speed of sound which equaled 2 and 3 times more the work. I'm retired now, both in the aviation business and as backyard mechanic. I'm not really too concerned in having this done right away. I'm more focused on finding the right guy who is physically capable without intruding too much. Time is all I have now. I'll ask my buddy Jeff first (if his back will agree first) and take it from there.}

Edited August 13, 2012 by KiMO Racing

[Grabber]

Make sure you follow the torque spec's and sequence on the flywheel and clutch to t T.

Edited August 14, 2012 by Grabber

[Grabber]

These Videos may help you and your friend pull the tranny and install it. You need to slightly jack the front of the motor to get a slight angle on the tranny to get it out. It is a tight fit. The tranny also has to roll to the right before it will come out. These vids were shot by me a couple few years ago when Dan did my first clutch.

 

[Grabber]

....the rest of the vids:

 

[Grabber]

Sorry the videos are posted in the wrong sequence. But all the info is there. Just start watching the last one first and work your way up from there.

[KiMO Racing]

Wow Grabber, you're a good man. I viewed them all in order and it brought back memories. Let me clarify, Jeff is a friend and the owner of a successful automotive repair business. Our only problem is that he's eligible for social security but continues to work. Different generation, different times. If he's too busy or too tired, I'll understand and eventually find a quality guy. Not too worried with my circle of friends. Thank you for everything.

[1NCBTN]

Has anyone be told that the CR3Z7B546A Clutch is now only a single disc vs a twin disc?

[redwingone]

Sorry the videos are posted in the wrong sequence. But all the info is there. Just start watching the last one first and work your way up from there.

grabber again your extra effort in contributing to our knowledge of our cars is highly appreciated. Thanks so much.

ken

[Grabber]

Has anyone be told that the CR3Z7B546A Clutch is now only a single disc vs a twin disc?

 

 

There is 2 disc's in there. Take a look.

 

[E.Marquez]

These Videos may help you and your friend pull the tranny and install it. You need to slightly jack the front of the motor to get a slight angle on the tranny to get it out. It is a tight fit. The tranny also has to roll to the right before it will come out.

 

 

I did the 1st one this way and it does work..... but I found on the next two.. if you lower the k member...removing the rear most bolts (one per side) and loosen the rest of the fasteners as much as possible... the transmission will come out much easier.

 

It literally takes an extra 5-10 min to loosen or remove those fasteners, and saves a lot of twist, turn, and hassle in removing the transmission.

 

To each his own, that’s what I found works better for me.

Edited August 24, 2012 by E.Marquez

[Snoopy49]

How much does the transmission weigh?

[E.Marquez]

How much does the transmission weigh?

 

 

125 or so.. I can put on and off the lift tranny jack from floor to jack.. So it's not too bad.

Edited August 24, 2012 by E.Marquez

[1NCBTN]

Thanks,

 

Delaer said they taked to Ford tech support and it was only a single disk.

[Grabber]

Thanks,

 

Delaer said they taked to Ford tech support and it was only a single disk.

 

GT's are single. GT500's are double.

 

That's a fact.

[Charles Stunkard]

This thread is a wealth of knowledge - thank you Grabber, and everyone else who has contributed.

I ordered all the parts from Tasca.

They were great to deal with, had everything in stock, shipped the very same day and I had them in two days.

I know what I am doing this Saturday!

[Grabber]

This thread is a wealth of knowledge - thank you Grabber, and everyone else who has contributed.

I ordered all the parts from Tasca.

They were great to deal with, had everything in stock, shipped the very same day and I had them in two days.

I know what I am doing this Saturday!

 

So you are installing it yourself ?

[SNKBITE]

Clutch Drag TSB 10-3-8 (4^th revision 2010 clutch set up) - Prices for labor and materials if you have to pay for it.

 

This post is to help those that are out of warranty and want to get the 2010 clutch TSB done on their car. The parts listed below are the latest part numbers that are currently being installed on cars under warranty. In fact my wife just had all this work done on her 2009 Shelby GT500 and it drives great now. The clutch is very smooth and every take off is perfect for her. Personally I like the way this set up drives and operates and will be having it installed on my car by the Senior Master Tech at my ford dealership. After Driving my wifes car…..I gotta have it. It’s that nice !

I have found that Tasca Ford has the parts for the best price. They offer the parts for $303 cheaper than most ford parts stores. The shipping is about $50 bucks to get all the parts delivered. Below are Tasca Fords prices. A dealer should charge you no more than 5.1 hours to install all these parts.

If you have not modified your car past a Pulley and a Cold air Intake, this system will last along time in your car. Please do not turn this thread into a Clutch bashing thread on the Ford system. I am quite aware that the after market clutch systems are more suited for cars that have bigger Super Chargers.

Tasca Ford’s Parts phone number: 1-800-915-3141

 

CLUTCH ASY - $495.99

Part #: CR3Z7B546A

Pack Qty: 1

 

FLYWHEEL ASY - $167.38

Part #: AR3Z6375A

Pack Qty: 1

 

SLEEVE (pilot bearing) - $8.71

Part #: F6ZZ7600A

Pack Qty: 1

 

CYLINDER ASY - CLUTCH SLAVE - $165.33

Part #: DR3Z-7A508-A (was part# AR3Z7A508A)

Pack Qty: 1

 

BOLT - $2.01 each x 6 = $12.06

Part #: N808969S100

Pack Qty: 6 bolts needed

 

LUBRICANT – TEFLON - $6.35

Part #: XG8

Pack Qty: 1

 

TUBE (hydrolic clutch line) - $53.23

Part #: AR3Z7A512A

Pack Qty: 1

FLUID – BRAKE - $3.16

Part #: PM1C

Pack Qty: 1

 

BOLT - HEX.HEAD - $2.45 x 8 = $19.60

Part #: F6ZZ6379AA

Pack Qty: 8 bolts needed

 

Total = $931.81 Tasca Ford price ($303.02 savings)

 

Ford price = $1,234.83

 

Labor books out at 5.1 hours at $99.29 per hour = $506.37

 

Labor and materials = $1,438.18 for the total job.

 

Are you saying the TSB work we all had done back in 2008-2009 is the same clutch that was originally installed? Because I can honestly say the chatter did not disappear. Makes me wonder why I did the TSB in the first place......

[Grabber]

Are you saying the TSB work we all had done back in 2008-2009 is the same clutch that was originally installed? Because I can honestly say the chatter did not disappear. Makes me wonder why I did the TSB in the first place......

 

 

Yes that is true it was the same clutch the only thing different on it was the splines on the center of the unit were made out of nickle instead of steel to prevent corrosion. The main reason for the TSB back then was to change the flywheel out.

 

The new TSB finally fixs the chatter problem.

[Charles Stunkard]

So you are installing it yourself ?

 

 

Yep! I also watch the video you posted which was very helpful… it is so tight up there that the slight rotation of the transmission noted in the video was the key!

 

Total install took about 9 hours, a little slow I admit, but wow, what a difference in how the car drives! The clutch is so much smoother and quieter!

Now the hard part…I understand I have to play nice in it for a 500 mile break-in period! :burnout:

[Grabber]

Yep! I also watch the video you posted which was very helpful… it is so tight up there that the slight rotation of the transmission noted in the video was the key!

 

Total install took about 9 hours, a little slow I admit, but wow, what a difference in how the car drives! The clutch is so much smoother and quieter!

Now the hard part…I understand I have to play nice in it for a 500 mile break-in period! :burnout:

 

 

I'm glad to hear that your installation went well. Not many can do that job their selves. A top notch Ford Master Tech does the entire job in 5 hours including the 30 minute clutch bleed, test drive and closing paperwork. I have watched my transmission go in and out of my car every time and I find the entire process very interesting. While you tranny was out, did you happen to put in the Royal Purple syncromesh full synthetic fluid ? it makes a noticeable difference in the smoothness of the shifts.

[Charles Stunkard]

I'm glad to hear that your installation went well. Not many can do that job their selves. A top notch Ford Master Tech does the entire job in 5 hours including the 30 minute clutch bleed, test drive and closing paperwork. I have watched my transmission go in and out of my car every time and I find the entire process very interesting. While you tranny was out, did you happen to put in the Royal Purple syncromesh full synthetic fluid ? it makes a noticeable difference in the smoothness of the shifts.

 

 

Yep, I did the Royal Purple too… figured while the trans was out no better time.

The one thing that seemed odd to me was the new TUBE (hydraulic clutch line); I used it because I ordered it and had it, but it seemed exactly the same as the one I took out… it was fun fishing that up through!

 

Again let me say thanks for all your efforts of providing the information, greatly appreciated!

[Grabber]

Yep, I did the Royal Purple too… figured while the trans was out no better time.

The one thing that seemed odd to me was the new TUBE (hydraulic clutch line); I used it because I ordered it and had it, but it seemed exactly the same as the one I took out… it was fun fishing that up through!

 

Again let me say thanks for all your efforts of providing the information, greatly appreciated!

 

 

I read on another forum that a member checked the inside diameter of the new hydrolic line and that it is a little bit bigger to allow for more flow. So it's good that you changed it. To the eye you can not tell, but if you checked it....it is a bit bigger.