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Clutch engagement


tedj

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I removed the spring today. I don't find much difference in the travel before the clutch engages, but the upshifts are much smoother. You don't have the springy feeling of the pedal coming back at you. I like it overall.

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I finally removed the spring this afternoon. Now it feels like my 2010 did. I like it much better.

I removed the spring today. I don't find much difference in the travel before the clutch engages, but the upshifts are much smoother. You don't have the springy feeling of the pedal coming back at you. I like it overall.

 

How hard/complicated is the removal process?

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I have been driving high performance cars all my life but it took me a while too get used to the upper end clutch! Yes I have stalled more than once! But I have mastered it now! denohew

 

I think that if you remove the spring, you will be pleasantly surprised and if you don't like the way it feels you can always reinstall the spring.

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I took the spring out with the help of my good buddy, who's a heavy duty mechanic. I had him drive the car before and after so that we could compare notes. Here is what he wrote me back.

 

"After you left, I was thinking about the clutch action. With the assist spring removed, the clutch pedal return force is now not being restricted by the action of the former downward assist spring and therefor the clutch pressure plate is acting with faster positive “grab” force to push the clutch friction disc onto the engine flywheel while your foot is coming off the pedal after a shift.

 

From the 2 measurements the clutch engagement point remains the same,( 4” from the floor ) however the faster clutch response may lead one to believe that the grab point is sooner, which is not the case. The change has definitely produced less or no “bucking” between shifts, which is great and how it should be.

 

It is a “monster” of a car, and I’m glad you had it in Traction Control when I was driving cause I know I may have put some rubber down between shifts or gone sideways.

 

Thanks for letting me drive your car, it was literally a thrill ride, trying to describe its power to someone is indescribable.I have a great respect for this Ford and its power."

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You can replace the TOB/Slave cylinder with a 2012 unit.

 

Have you done this, and what are the results. After further thought, it may just be the way the geometry of the clutch pressure plate fingers are. And that any adjustment to grab closerto the floor would just result in the clutch NOT releasing all the way (draging). options?

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I didn't have the sticking problem, but I didn't like the two stage feel of the clutch pedal. I removed the assist spring and would recommend it's removal. Link

 

 

I took thje advise and removed the clutch assist spring. It increases the pressure needed to engage, BUT it is not that hard, I could still press it down with my arm. It did significantly improve the feel of the clutch as to where it grabs. It is still high, but makes driving stop and go much nicer. If it would grab 2 " off the floor it would be perfect.

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Have you done this, and what are the results. After further thought, it may just be the way the geometry of the clutch pressure plate fingers are. And that any adjustment to grab closerto the floor would just result in the clutch NOT releasing all the way (draging). options?

 

I was told that Ford changed from the 2012 slave cylinder to the 2013 style in order to get a higher engagement point. The story I heard was that because of all the complaints from the 2012 owners about gear grinding and shifter problems, Ford determined that part of the problem was the low clutch engagement point and the possibility of the operator not pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor before attempting a shift. So they changed the slave cylinder. I was told that I could change to the earlier 2012 slave and it would lower the engagement point without harm to the clutch. If it was easier to change the slave, it might be worth trying.

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Was a bit surprised by clutch and I have also stalled a few times in 300 miles of driving. My other ride is a 2010 cobra roadster with a high strung sbf, tko 5 speed, lightweight flywheel and spec stage 3 clutch. GT500 is very sensitive but you can drive the heck out of the cobra with no worries. Clutch seems to be less touchy as I put more miles on.

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Dually,
If you haven't removed the clutch assist spring, you should consider doing it. The clutch on my car was very grabby for the first 300 miles, but it finally broke in around 400 miles and the engagement has smoothed out. Removing the spring made the biggest difference when it came to pulling away from a stop, I haven't stalled it one time since I removed it. They should have called it the dumba** spring, because that how it makes you feel.

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  • 2 months later...

I removed mine based on snoopy49's suggestion, works like a charm. I made a video tutorial while I was doing it to help others, i wish I had known about this mod sooner ->

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  • 4 months later...

Took the clutch assist spring out of my 14, what a difference, feels like a " normal " clutch except for the 4" of travel to engagement. Will look @ the slave cylinder to correct that issue.

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Why would removing a spring, which pivots out of the way when fully depressed, make the travel 4"? Mine engages in the exact same spot it did before it's just the amount of effort that changed. I'd drive it for a month and let the muscle memory fade.

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