AndyGJ Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Here is another Mod Questions - again looking for some additional performance gains. I'm looking to get a tuner to update to a 93 Street Performance tune and thought about also getting the FRPP 62mm throttle body. I know it would work better if I also added the FRPP Intake Manifold, but holding off on that for now as I don't want to lose the cross brace, especially on a convertible. Can someone tell me what, if any, difference I would gain by adding the FRPP 62 mm throttle body with the tune alone? What are the disadvantages (lower mpg??), if any? Thanks! Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 More air = more power and performance !! 55mm to 62 bigger is better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 I saw the BBK one on American Muscle, and the comments say to reset the TPS reading to 1.25 in many cases, but the FRPP part comes with the TPS and the Throttle Motor already attached. Is the FRPP unit completely plug and play, or is there something I'm missing without seeing the full instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 I saw the BBK one on American Muscle, and the comments say to reset the TPS reading to 1.25 in many cases, but the FRPP part comes with the TPS and the Throttle Motor already attached. Is the FRPP unit completely plug and play, or is there something I'm missing without seeing the full instructions? I used the BBK and had to swap the parts which was easy !!! Also while that was being done a throttle body spacer was added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 In some of the reviews of the product, several guys tallk about taking measurements for the TPS or something and then having to reset when they connected the new unit....what is all that about? I'm trying to figure out if that is because they transferred over the motor and TPS to the new unit or if that is something that must be done just because... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 I swapped everything over to the BBL throttle body bolted it on. Then drove it with no issues of adjustment and was using the stock manifold. To me it made a difference !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 In some of the reviews of the product, several guys tallk about taking measurements for the TPS or something and then having to reset when they connected the new unit....what is all that about? There are 3 wires to the TPS. One is reference voltage (5v), one is ground and one is signal return. The PCU (computer) sends out the 5v ref. voltage and the TPS sends back a signal, depandant on where the TPS is in its range. Low voltage = throttle closed High voltage = throttle open So lets say the signal return voltage should be .48v at idle but you have the TPS slightly rotated and even though the throttle blade is closed, return voltage is at 1.25v. The PCU thinks the throttle is open slighty and will send out signals (timing, fuel injector pulse, etc.) to compensate for a open throttle blade. But it isn't open... Garbage in, Garbage out! So take your voltage reading from the signal return wire and the ground wire (NOT A COMMON/ENGINE GROUND!) at idle before you remove your old TB. Note it down. When you install your new TB, check the voltage on it. Corrolate the voltage on the new one to match the old one. Use a *good* quality DVOM with 10M ohm or better impedence. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Dupe post-IGNORE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 There are 3 wires to the TPS. One is reference voltage (5v), one is ground and one is signal return. The PCU (computer) sends out the 5v ref. voltage and the TPS sends back a signal, depandant on where the TPS is in its range. Low voltage = throttle closed High voltage = throttle open So lets say the signal return voltage should be .48v at idle but you have the TPS slightly rotated and even though the throttle blade is closed, return voltage is at 1.25v. The PCU thinks the throttle is open slighty and will send out signals (timing, fuel injector pulse, etc.) to compensate for a open throttle blade. But it isn't open... Garbage in, Garbage out! So take your voltage reading from the signal return wire and the ground wire (NOT A COMMON/ENGINE GROUND!) at idle before you remove your old TB. Note it down. When you install your new TB, check the voltage on it. Corrolate the voltage on the new one to match the old one. Use a *good* quality DVOM with 10M ohm or better impedence. Phill Phil, If I use the FRPP part with everything already attached from them, will I still need to verify the voltage reading? Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Phil, If I use the FRPP part with everything already attached from them, will I still need to verify the voltage reading? Andy. I'm pretty sure they're factory set. I know mine was (with my Whipple 2.9L kit) and I've never heard of anyone else having to set the TPS voltage on one. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Phil, I think that is the way I'll be going...I like the looks of the FRPP part anyway. Any suggestions on a tuner as well? I'm going to set it up for a 93 Octane tune and the 62 mm TB, so I need to purchase both to get this install done...looking for a quality one that I can use as needed in the future with future mods. Thanks, Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old man Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 I installed the Ford racing 62 mm on my 07 GTH. It ran fine out of the box. Brenspeed told me I didn't need it on a stock motor, so it is just for looks. I added the delete plates to keep the stock manifold and strut tower brace on the 07. I had a Ford racing intake, but was told the delete plates or racing intake on a stock motor were about the same. I later got a custom tune for the delete plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Phil, I think that is the way I'll be going...I like the looks of the FRPP part anyway. Any suggestions on a tuner as well? How close are you to TASCA Ford? Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 How close are you to TASCA Ford? Phill Not close...I'm down in Atlanta and they are up in Rhode Island area... I wish I had an approved mod shop close by! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT3369 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 I want the bling factor of the FRPP TB. Would like the top end package with HP gain to 400 but wll setlle for now with look of TB. What is the final verdict on TB replacement-require tune or no? In process of replacing headers with FRPP shorty ceramics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT93 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 If you're going to install the TB and the intake you have to upgrade the exhaust system. With a new set of long tube headers and a custom tune the car really comes alive. Without the headers you'll make no power because of the back pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccsl7578 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Hey Andy, check out Pro-Dyno in Fort Mill, SC (www.prodyno.net). They do bolt-ons to total engine rebuilds, supercharger installs, suspension/brake upgrades and then will put it on their dyno and Dan will give it the super tune! They were at Mustang Week in Myrtle Beach last week. Definetly the BEST in this area!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 I would exercise caution in obtaining a 93 octane tune. First, you will want a cushion due to possibly obtaining a batch of "bad" gas possibly in the future. There are gas stations that pay the driver to dump regular 87 octane in to the premium tanks. And any extra water in the tank etc will reduce your octane. You are right on the edge with a 93 tune and no room for error. And secondly there is not a problem with obtaining 93 octane in Atlanta but if you go out west, past about mid-texas, there is only 91 octane from there to the pacific ocean. There is no 93 octane on the west coast. At least not at gas stations. About the western 1/3 of the country has 91 as its highest octane. Again, the 91 delivers less power, and I recommend you use 93 at all times, but the 91 octane tune gives you a little bit of extra protection in the event of an o-shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 07SGT - That is the first time I've had someone give me some advise about 91 vs 93 octane....Thank you! I never thought of the issues like a slight drop-off in octane since 93 is so readily available here in GA (Atlanta especially). I generally use the more reliable chain gas stations, but even they can screw up a delivery of gas. I frequently use even 93 in my Expedition if going on long family trips, hauling the boat to the lake, or if driving up into the North GA mountains/higher elevations. If the octane was less than 93 (heck, even less than 91) I probably would not even know the difference. What I probably will look at doing is getting the Bama SCT tuner with the 3 tunes and use a new 91 tune, but also add in a 93 tune if I decide to try it. I may find the a better 91 tune may be enough refinement to suit my needs. All this pro/con to minor mods for some minor power boost is steering me more and more to just skipping everything and going as quick as I can to the SC kit. Thanks, Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyDW Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Ditto the 91 tune. Can only get 92 in Terlinqua. No data here on the 62mm FRP TB on the stock Shelby intake. I do know that it is a good add for the the 550 whipple install and it is well worht the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Ditto the 91 tune. Can only get 92 in Terlinqua. No data here on the 62mm FRP TB on the stock Shelby intake. I do know that it is a good add for the the 550 whipple install and it is well worht the money. So you do have the 62 mm FRPP Throttle Body with the Whipple 550 on yours? I sure do love the way it would look with the engine cap and valve cover mods I've already done. Do you have any type of strut tower brace on yours (assuming you do have the Whipple) or is that gone? I would like to keep a brace of some sort just because mine is a convertible. The only other performance mod I definitely want is the FRPP shorty headers. Thanks, Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 We have hyperuetic pistons on the stock SGT. Stronger than cast pistons but less than forged pistons. Running with less than required octane will lead to pre-ignition (and pinging) and actually burn the piston. Then it is only a matter of time. That is why I recommend adding a cushion of safety and use 93 octane gas but have a tune that only requires 91. And I would use a Top Tier gas if at all possible. Re to : http://www.toptiergas.com/ Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyDW Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 So you do have the 62 mm FRPP Throttle Body with the Whipple 550 on yours? I sure do love the way it would look with the engine cap and valve cover mods I've already done. Do you have any type of strut tower brace on yours (assuming you do have the Whipple) or is that gone? I would like to keep a brace of some sort just because mine is a convertible. The only other performance mod I definitely want is the FRPP shorty headers. Thanks, Andy. Yep, here is what it looks like on the Whipple. http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq312/davidw777/DSC00226.jpg The strut brace is in the storage box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 I think I'm going to go the route of the Custom Tune - stay with 91 Octane tune, but still use the 93 for the cushion (93 is all we have in GA), and use an improved CAI. That will cost about $1,025 including the BAMA tuner. I may also add the FRPP 62mm Throttle Body if I have available funds at the same time. (another $500). I can reuse everything but the new CAI, so I'd be wasting about $300 until I can afford the Whipple, but that should entertain me some for the next 1 to 2 years as I build up funding for the SC....just would really like the extra HP now, but good things come to those who wait!! Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Yep, here is what it looks like on the Whipple. http://i459.photobuc...77/DSC00226.jpg The strut brace is in the storage box. Your set up looks extremely nice!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBlueHeaven Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 I think I'm going to go the route of the Custom Tune - stay with 91 Octane tune, but still use the 93 for the cushion (93 is all we have in GA), and use an improved CAI. That will cost about $1,025 including the BAMA tuner. I may also add the FRPP 62mm Throttle Body if I have available funds at the same time. (another $500). I can reuse everything but the new CAI, so I'd be wasting about $300 until I can afford the Whipple, but that should entertain me some for the next 1 to 2 years as I build up funding for the SC....just would really like the extra HP now, but good things come to those who wait!! Andy. You know you can ask BAMA to do both a 93 and a 91 tune for you for when you travel. I've used the 93 tune here in VA and never had a problem with gas. I had them do the same tunes for me for 91 also just in case I ever travel to the other half of the country. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 I had thought about doing that with both a 93 tune and a 91 tune...I'm guessing that is just using canned tunes from BAMA. So here's a question...I was considering a full custom tune from a local performance shop (he uses the Bama SCT unit). Would I be getting that much more from a custom tune vs a canned tune? I asked for a price from him for the custom tune, but not for two of them...cost of custom tune and tuner was about $550 I think. Thoughts??? Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBlueHeaven Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 I had thought about doing that with both a 93 tune and a 91 tune...I'm guessing that is just using canned tunes from BAMA. So here's a question...I was considering a full custom tune from a local performance shop (he uses the Bama SCT unit). Would I be getting that much more from a custom tune vs a canned tune? I asked for a price from him for the custom tune, but not for two of them...cost of custom tune and tuner was about $550 I think. Thoughts??? Andy. Yes there is a big difference in the custom tune from a shop that puts your car on the Dyno and the canned tunes from BAMA, don't get me wrong I have nothing against BAMA and for now they are fine as I continue to add parts to the car and update the tune for free (don't have to pay for new dyno tune after every new part), however once I'm done adding, I'm going to get the custom dyno tune done at PCM in Raliegh (08SGT1234, Carl's son shop) Keep in mind though that if you're getting your SCT tuner from AM you can have them do the free tunes as well since it comes with the tuner and keep it on file on your CPU, that way if you ever need to travel you can load it and go. Kind of sounds like a lot but it really isn't I would def do the custom tune though. Like I said BAMA plays it safe with their tunes since they are not really putting your car on the dyno, As you can see from my list of mods I have some of the same as a lot of the guys on this site and with the Bama tune I am not making nearly the same power as them, I contribute the difference to the Bama tune. Once I add the long tubes and o/r X next month I will get the custom dyno tune @ PCM and then I can tell you if it was the tune or not for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 One of the Tuners I spoke to said that he typically does not put the vehicle on the dyno for just a tune...he said he can hook it up to his computer and measure all the airflow going through the car to set the tune. He said that he can put it on the dyno, but that costs another $100 and is not necessary. He did say that he definitely requires a Dyno run when he does an SC upgrade...definitely helps on setting the final parameters for the vehicle. He said that most folks want the dyno run to show the HP after the tune, but he can estimate within 5% with his process when doing the tune. Does that sound correct? It sounded logical to me, but I'm a novice at this kind of stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyBlueHeaven Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 One of the Tuners I spoke to said that he typically does not put the vehicle on the dyno for just a tune...he said he can hook it up to his computer and measure all the airflow going through the car to set the tune. He said that he can put it on the dyno, but that costs another $100 and is not necessary. He did say that he definitely requires a Dyno run when he does an SC upgrade...definitely helps on setting the final parameters for the vehicle. He said that most folks want the dyno run to show the HP after the tune, but he can estimate within 5% with his process when doing the tune. Does that sound correct? It sounded logical to me, but I'm a novice at this kind of stuff. I mean, it's alright if your ok with him guessing he's within 5% of what he would get out of it, and you're def right about it being more $$$ for the Dyno. I want the Dyno tune so I know that the tuner is getting everything he can out of the mods that I did, not estimating kind of like BAMA does. As long as your ok with it I'm sure you'll be pleased with the outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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