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control arms and panhard rod


svt13

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Was thinking of doing some suspension work but have no experience with it on these cars.

 

Does anyone have experience with this panhard rod? http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-panhard-0509.html

 

and these control arms http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-powdercoated-rear-trailing-arms.html

 

 

What are the ACTUAL benefits if at all noticeable of putting these 2 things on the 13 shelby and what are the cons for example (increased NVH).

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explain why....

 

 

I agre with him, and it is because of poor city roads, and admittedly my poor attention to detail on the road at times. I am careless when I get into my zone at times (meaning at low speeds, I try to be very focused while in higher speeds) so I just don't want to deal with it. I had so many fightts with people over lowering cars on my CaliberSRT4 forum because I refused to lower it, and everyone kept calling it a monster truck. I didn't need to lower it. It was already perfect and fast for what it was used for. If you track it and AutoX every wek I guess that makes sense but for me keeping stock height was a no brainer. He may have different reasons than I, but I think it is best to be honest with yourself. And hey if you are a very carefl driver and have nice city streets....More power to you, the look is nice no doubt.

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explain why....

 

 

The reason for this is my car now is lowered 1.75 inches in the front and 1.5 in the rear and it was the worst decision of my life. The car is soooooooooooo damn bumpy everytime I drive it I feel like I am breaking my back. Not only that I literally scrape over EVERYTHING. On top of that I can't even go into a carwash because last time I did the track pulled my exhaust apart (not that the shelby will be going into a car wash either). And the new reason why I can't do it in the shelby is because then it'll scrape on the ground going into the work parking garage.

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1.75 and 1.5 is really low depending on the car....trust me the mustang sits very high. My current car had a 1.2/1.3 drop and it was perfect. I live in florida, so lots of flat roads and minimal bumps here. To do it right you get spring, shocks and the panhard. The ride will be a little rougher and stiffer but to me necessary on a car like this. So damn fast, I want it to be stable. Now if you live in a city, then it makes sense to leave it stock. But for me, and for what I use it for ( not my daily driver) those type of mods make it that much more enjoyable to me, plus with wheels and tires, it looks damn good and muscular! plus i dont go through car washes, can ruin the paint...I hand wash it or get someone to detail it once every 6 months....to each his own

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1.75 and 1.5 is really low depending on the car....trust me the mustang sits very high. My current car had a 1.2/1.3 drop and it was perfect. I live in florida, so lots of flat roads and minimal bumps here. To do it right you get spring, shocks and the panhard. The ride will be a little rougher and stiffer but to me necessary on a car like this. So damn fast, I want it to be stable. Now if you live in a city, then it makes sense to leave it stock. But for me, and for what I use it for ( not my daily driver) those type of mods make it that much more enjoyable to me, plus with wheels and tires, it looks damn good and muscular! plus i dont go through car washes, can ruin the paint...I hand wash it or get someone to detail it once every 6 months....to each his own

 

 

Well number one the shelby is impossible to get in a car wash the wheels are too wide, so everyone will be detailing/ washing themselves. 2nd I live in VA, and this is my daily driver so I have to be able to tolerate the bumpyness. When I lowered my current car I got 5 way adjustable tokiko dampers, and set them all the way to soft, and nope it stills bounces ALL over the place. The car with the performance pack like I ordered it, is already lowered an inch. If its low enough to go 200 mph and be as stable as Randy Probst described, its good enough for me.

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I dont think thats correct. The ride height is not different from base to svtpp. I saw one in person, still sat pretty high. Gap between tire and wheel well was a few inches

 

 

You sure? The springs are different on svtpp cars. I remember reading on the ford website or the source book that the svtpp springs drop it about .75 to 1 inch. Otherwise whats the point of different springs?

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You sure? The springs are different on svtpp cars. I remember reading on the ford website or the source book that the svtpp springs drop it about .75 to 1 inch. Otherwise whats the point of different springs?

 

 

It's not only the height of the springs but the spring rate as well. The Shelby would have a different spring rate than that of a V6 or 5.0.

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The ride height is not different from base to svtpp.

 

 

Naw, actually, it is. Not by as much as the FRPP FR3 handling pack lowers it, but it a SVTPP is lower by something like 1/2".

 

5mm front and 8mm rear, if I remember corectly.

 

 

Phill

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ok thanx for the correction...that is a very minor difference in height...I still rather do my own setup after ive had it for a while...I could not justify the cost of the svtpp to myself and I was not crazy about the wheels

 

 

lol I'm the reverse of you. I HATE the base wheels and like the SVTPP wheels. Plus base wheels on black looks horrible. And I really just wanted the adjustable shocks more than anything. After market won't give you that kind of convience. Unless you buy the damptronic ones ford usues (spot/comfort model) urself but then to tune them correctly is a different story. Here the work has been done for me why should I mess it up?

 

Also if you get wheels like that separately they run around 1500. If you get the shocks from blistein the ones ford uses are 2500 the damptronic like the GTR are 2700 or 3000 I dont remember which. Plus you get the sway bars and springs with the SVTPP so 3500 is actually more than justified, your essentially getting all of this stuff at a discount and not even paying for the labor to put it in.

 

Now 4000 for the svtpp on 11-12 cars was by ZERO STANDARD WORTH IT. You could get all that stuff for under 2000.

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Im not planning to get the bilsteins or any of that expensive stuff....springs/ better shocks in the future/ panhard...way cheaper. and Ill get a set of badass F14 wheels on some wide meats and good to go....I dont care for the adjustablity factor with the push of button. Thus far people have said the sport setting is way too harsh for the road...so really no need for it for me. I just need a good ride that will do it all...im ok with my car now, im sure this new one will be way better

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Im not planning to get the bilsteins or any of that expensive stuff....springs/ better shocks in the future/ panhard...way cheaper. and Ill get a set of badass F14 wheels on some wide meats and good to go....I dont care for the adjustablity factor with the push of button. Thus far people have said the sport setting is way too harsh for the road...so really no need for it for me. I just need a good ride that will do it all...im ok with my car now, im sure this new one will be way better

 

 

The firm setting on the 13 is no where near as harsh as some of the late model Vipers I have been in.

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The firm setting on the 13 is no where near as harsh as some of the late model Vipers I have been in.

 

 

thats good to know...i have been in some harsh rides. Either way too late at this point and Im not going to miss the svtpp anyway...going to enjoy my car for a while, then if I feel it needs an adjustment, ill do it then

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Im not planning to get the bilsteins or any of that expensive stuff....springs/ better shocks in the future/ panhard...way cheaper. and Ill get a set of badass F14 wheels on some wide meats and good to go....I dont care for the adjustablity factor with the push of button. Thus far people have said the sport setting is way too harsh for the road...so really no need for it for me. I just need a good ride that will do it all...im ok with my car now, im sure this new one will be way better

 

 

Why are you going to put new shocks? What shocks would you even put? The best aftermarket shocks are blistein non adjustables. Right now the base shelby uses tokiko shocks/struts. It would be worth it for those to not get the performance pack if and only if they are going coil overs or not changing their shocks and struts. Plus if you go coil overs thats around 1200-1500 right there. F14 wheels are another 1500 I believe. So your basically at 3000 anyways. With the performance pack you never have to change your shocks. If you want stiffer its there if you don't its there. The other route you save 500 dollars.

 

As far as wheels i'm going to get some carbon fiber cor wheels. Maybe next year.

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I would only put new shocks once the stock ones wear out or some other unforseen issue...I should have been more clear on that. Tighter springs for a lower stance is the main initial goal, it works for me. F14's look way better than the PP wheels and they are concave. I can also get a wider tire on there....if that doesnt make sense it doesnt have to...its what I want to do. What I have planned for the car is minimal but each thing I do will have a purpose, either aesthetically or performance wise..and Ill take my time with it. Plus ill purchase DR's to put on the base wheels for those 4-5 strip days I attend each year

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I would only put new shocks once the stock ones wear out or some other unforseen issue...I should have been more clear on that. Tighter springs for a lower stance is the main initial goal, it works for me. F14's look way better than the PP wheels and they are concave. I can also get a wider tire on there....if that doesnt make sense it doesnt have to...its what I want to do. What I have planned for the car is minimal but each thing I do will have a purpose, either aesthetically or performance wise..and Ill take my time with it. Plus ill purchase DR's to put on the base wheels for those 4-5 strip days I attend each year

 

 

meh i think either shelby alcoas should go on this car the black ones, or 5 spoke wheels. Not a 5 double spoke

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I would do alcoas in a heartbeat, if they werent so hard to find and didnt cost 4K just for wheels....its all personal preference

 

 

When I googled them they all came for 500 a rim? Whose selling them for 4k? Or are you including tires as well?

 

The cor wheels I plan on going with are like 5000 just for the rims. But thats for next year.

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they dont make alcoas anymore....private sellers selling used ones are getting 3-4K for the wheels alone

 

 

When Robert Lane at Shelby announced the end of the Dura-Bright wheels they sold the remaining SA inventory and all of the Alcoa inventory. Suspecting they would be rare and knowing they were the only other wheel I liked on a Shelby, I bought a full set of 4 for $495ea ($1980.00 + S+H) and I've seen them selling north of $4000.

 

So I have a set of 4 brand new 20" Alcoa Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels sitting in boxes on the top shelf in my garage. I don't plan to sell them but when I do, I know I'll at least get my money back (which I'd be good with).

 

Yeah, they're selling for *that* much.

 

Shelby has yet to announce the replacement wheel for the Dura-Brights and they may come out with something spectacular that kills the price of the old SS style wheels but that's a gamble some took.

 

 

Phill

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because what your seeing is what they were selling for when they were available. Just cause you google it doesnt mean its current or available...try clicking on some of them and you will see it says out of stock, discontinued....use your head a little

 

 

Well when I click on them there is a little disclaimer that says not avaible anymore. Well thats retarded. Google should take it off then. Or the seller should take it off.

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