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FRPP aluminum driveshaft install


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this is an awesome write up first off. ( http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2013-mustangs/325275-coast-driveline-1-piece-aluminum-driveshaft-install-w-pics-5.html#post7957293 )

i have followed it closely and i am happy to say all has gone smoothly so far.

 

i have hit a snag i do not see addressed in the write up and was wondering if anyone can help..

 

i have everything unbolted form the original shaft.

the front has been separated from the transmission.

the rear will NOT separate form the pinion flange.

 

i am also working alone in about 13"=15" of space under the car.

how do you separate the rear of the shaft from the rear flange?

 

the rest is free i can move, wiggle spin, manipulate all of it. its laying on the wood now..waiting for a solution.

 

any input would be GREATLY appreciated

!!

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i just spent another half hour under the car with PB blaster..a rubber mallet and a 16OZ carpenters hammer. 10 mins of rotation and soaking. 15 mins or rotating and bumping ith rubber hammer

finaly 4-5 taps and a roatation and another tap with the caprnters hammer and it poped out on its own!!!

 

half way there...

 

heating up here in orlando..trying to get out from under this car before i bake..

no garage to work in...

persistance, persuasion and some PB blaster.

thats the key.

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I'm not very experienced with many mechanical concepts, I'm way more a chemist than a mechanic, and I have only done a few things to my engine.

Big thing I learned: When does your car ever let a part come off easy, or when does anything ever fit perfect?

Awesome to hear it finally popped out.

On the contrary I believe FRPP has both an aluminum and a carbon fiber drive shaft. I've only heard of them though.

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ok when i got this driveshaft i bought it from shelby performance parts.

I swear i remember it being FRPP at the time but, the shaft they sell now says shelby on it. this one says Dynatech. on the box and no markings at all on the shaft.

reguardless, It came from Shelby to go on my Shelby :)http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/s5m-4602-b.htm <exact part - other than the label on the shaft it is identical.

 

anyway. i got that thing out. :) then i cleaned up the surfaces. then worked on the adaptor plate. then i got the shaft up under the car and bolted up to tranny and it was about 2 inches away from teh adaptor plate. seems i stored it upside down and it compressed the CV boot. i had to use a series of shortening bolts to pull it out using the adaptor plate threaded hole. started with 3 Inch carrige bolts.

in 7/16x20 thread .. then used pregressively shorter bolts to pull it against the flange. fun. not.

 

note to anyone who gets one and sets it down for a bit..make sure the tranny side is DOWN. or better yet, store it horizontally!

 

and that was it. if not for the sticking flange and compressed cv joint it would have been much easier and relatively easy all around.

 

first drive i was nervous.. seems very smooth. NVH does not feel any different to me. i seem to 'feel' like its smoother. and i know it seems to coast longer when i let off the gas than it used to. just feels lighter. maybe some mental but, feels good to me.

got it upto 90 eventually and i didnt feel anything i didnt like.

 

my install was not easy but, having done it- looking back i would do it again. it should have been easier.

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http://www.mcmahons.us/index.php/The-Corral/Aluminum-DS-install << Personal website.

 

this is no tutorial :)

 

these are just the pics i took. weren't meant to be a step by step by any means.

 

would post here but, seems i have very small quota for attaching images.

several were taken over as i really couldnt even see the display when i took the pics it was more "next" to me than in front of me. i didnt think to photo graph the different length bolts in place. i was starting to get pretty single minded by then. i can add pics of the bolts used if anyone wants that.

 

ill try to answer any questions if presented.

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I personally plan on going with the steeda aluminum DS. It comes with a new pinion flange instead of using a flange adapter that can lead to vibrations. Just heard too many stories of hit or miss with the flange adapters and vibrations, really don't want to take the chance with my luck.

 

 

Good pics of the install though, thanks for sharing. Must have been fun to do on JS's. I will definately be using a lift!

Edited by MyBlueHeaven
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im not sure i was equipped to pull that pinion flange.

and the Extensive threads around that go into migrane inducing formulas for getting pinion angles correct..

i did not want to add anyhting else to my project. i'd still be under there trying to figure out the angles.

i did everything with the jackstands under the pumkin so the suspension was loaded the whole time. i figured that would be as close as i could get to keeping things in line.

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I installed an Axle Exchange Aluminum driveshaft 4in.(made in USA). It comes with new pinion flange. Checked pinion angle with suspension loaded and I was good to go. I had no problems with driveshaft rubbing or vibrating because car is lowered.

Great customer service.

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