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Camber wear.


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Now I keep up an my maintenance and usually catch stuff quickly but this snuck by me. I didn't even expect to see this kind of wear especially after only 15k miles. So is this because of the extream lowpro 255/35/20 tires or is the camber that far off from Shelby? It's literally the inside inch and a half the rest of the tires are bearly wore. Thoughts, ideas, comments, it handles like its on rails and I don't want to lose that and this did take 4 years so can I lose some camber and still handle like it does(think autocross sharp)?

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I lowered my even more and still even wear !! I would start with a wheel alignment take it from there and also see if the tire has any defects. My wife friend had goodyear tires on her SRT jeep and hunk of rubber was missing off her front tires. She found out the tires had a recall on them she was one lucky lady. She beats that truck and that thing moves nicely.

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Wow... welcome back man! haven't seen you around in a long time!

 

I think it's more the toe that SAI never set after lowering than the camber personally.

 

 

+1, Are the insides of the tires cupped at all? From Shelby the front of the SGT has some negative camber but it should not be enough to cause this much wear that quickly but a bad toe alignment will. Find a local Speed Shop that caters to cars set-up for the track and have them check out the alignment at all four corners.

 

If you want your camber within OE spec you need to invest in some camber plates or camber bolts such as those from Ingalls.

 

http://www.ingallseng.com/mmy.php?year=2008&make=54&model=688

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It's a problem with having too much TOE OUT on the front . If it was an issue of too much negative camber you would have a progressive wear across the tread width of the tire . The other possibility is that you have separated the tire (the belt edge has separated from the body plies) but that usually will happen on only one tire - not both. Toe issues effect both tires NOT just one on the same axle . Inflation issues will either wear out the center or both edges or cause a wavelike effect across the tire ( so will not having the proper size tire for the wheel ).

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Ok so I am guessing it is the toe then does anyone have alignment settings that will still keep it track worthy but lessen this affect? Thanks guys.

I do really like to corner hard also so that might be contributing to it.

 

Ps thanks jmn444 its good to be back.

Edited by greaser
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greaser - since you are running a 35 series aspect ratio tire ( shorter sidewall needs less negative camber / less sidewall to flex ) I would reccomend running a negative 1.0 to negative 1.2 degrees camber with 6 to 6.5 degrees positive caster and set toe somewhere between 1/16" total toe in to zero toe. If you are going with the camber bolts you are not able to adjust caster and what you have is what your'e stuck with. Caster not only is for directional stability ( having the car go straight by compensating for road crown ) but also influences the camber roll effect in/during cornering , roadfeel/kickback in steering , and dynamics/speed rates of cross directional weight transfers. That is where the benefits of a caster/camber plate differ than an offset bolt on the strut.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all, This is really just all FYI, I'm currently addressing a lot of whats already been discussed.

 

I've been autocrossing my SGT and recently purchased new tires 245/45/18 Z1 Star Specs. I have taken the car to the alignment specialty shop (today) to find out how much camber the the FR3 handling pack created when dropping the car. I've heard the drop can result in approximately -1.7 degrees, that sounds like more than I have currently. I have also seen the Ford Racing document M-1800-A that suggests "If more negative camber is desired slotting the bottom strut mount is an acceptable option" I want to keep the car in F-stock and my inquiry to people in the know suggests I can't use Fastcam bolts or Camber Plates. Fortunately, the option to slot is a Ford authorised solution and acceptable under the rules. This option doesnt introduce new parts and is legal under SCCA Solo rules. For me slotting is the way to go if you want to preserve your PaX. -1.7 is a good amount of negative camber and likely a decent compromise for street and weekend AutoX runs. Also, Sam Strano has suggested not to exceed -2.1. I had the stock tires on the car with less than 10k miles on the vehicle before the tire change a month ago I saw absolutely no wear on the stock rubber as a result of the camber or toe. Regardless, I'm having the toe checked and if I acually have camber of -1.7, I may not slot fort he additional.

 

Hmm. I just got a call from the shop, the tech says the ball joints are starting to go which is a bit odd as the car has 10,150 miles, Is that possible?

Edited by Stevo
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Stevo,

It's OK to slot the lower hole on the strut , just make sure that the bolts are torqued and then witness mark the strut to spindle and check frequently . YES - ball joints are a problem inherent to the design of the lower control arm on these cars. I agree than 10,000 miles isn't much but it is possible.

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  • 8 months later...

When I was autocrossing my SGT, inside tire wear was not a problem. Since the tire spends most of it's time sliding sideway, it tends to wear evenly. Now I have quit running autocross and open track, the inside of the tires are showing wear. Just like a 65 Mustang, you put in negative camber to keep the tire flat on hard cornering. I may have mine readjusted to .5 negative camber now that it is a "street" car. 58,000 miles and counting.

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