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Broken BMR Front Lower Arm


Kevin Patten

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Robert,

 

The heat shields were on 2005 - 2006 S197s and then discontinued. Later on Ford found the issues with the heat from the cats and figured that was the cause thus bringing up the TSBs. The heat shields are available from Ford once again but under a different part number (and a cheaper price than previous - 6.95 vs 17.84ea.). Funny thing is that I've found is that the front LCAs that come on the Mustang GT models had the tabs and the GT500s did not have tabs. I don't know any rhyme or reason for this or why OEM replacements would not have the tabs. I got the pictures from LateModelRestoration's website. I have been using the Whiteline KCA433 kit on most vehicles to get away from the bonded hydro bushings and also to be able to use the heat shields (they have the brackets) along with being able to increase and/or decrease positive caster to find out what there is as far as what the steering feel/feedback is like. The Howe ball joints are not a height adjustment they are an adjustment to compensate for wear. They come very free/loose initially and you'll need to adjust them prior to use. I use a spring scale to set the drag on them.

 

Prothane makes a polyurethane bushing set but they don't last long - the load is too great and it distorts the polyurethane and gets sloppy at the front bushings of the LCA. The FRPP high $$$ rear control arm bushings are not polyurethane, they are delrin which last longer but costs big bucks.

 

I have pulled arms off of a 2013 Mustang GT that had the tabs (last set that I did for a guy). There are differences in the Howe ball joints as well - some have a full circumference groove cut into them around the shaft and some have just a notch cut into them. (Watson Racing units verses Howe website units on 19mm ones) I feel that it's nicer just to have the notch in it to retain strength in the shaft portion of the ball joint and yes, I have seen a fully grooved one break in a racing environment. Key thing is having a serviceable unit since the OEM unit has both sealed ball joints and bushings.

 

Got to go now - more later...

 

Ok, so let's discuss the 2011-up units more. You are saying the 18mm hole does not need to be enlarged for the 19mm ball joint stud? From what I have been told (but I do not know this for sure) Ford instructions say to ream or drill out the spindle hole on the 18mm cars for installation of the replacement 19mm control arm. <<This does not need to be done? I am interested in a good set of control arms, or at least updated. How does the Delrin wear for street use? and additional NVH?

 

Is this 18mm vs. 19mm (or 19.2) a stud length difference? or what exactly is measured at 18 or 19?

 

I see the M-3075-R is the FR500C performance control arm, but is the earlier design and the M-3075-RA is the newer design performance control arm as used on the BOSS LS application.

 

 

 

 

R

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I guess my approach/thinking towards any performance part has always been different than that for oem parts.

When I think performance part, I automatically think "use at your own risk".

When you take an oem part that is designed to fit a wide variety of conditions, loads, flexing etc, and then make a performance replacement with emphasis on only certain characteristics, like light weight, rigidity, firmness etc, something has to give.

Oem bushings and mild steel are fairly forgiving, but poly and other harder bushings will definitely transmit more shock and vibration.

Harder steel or even chrome moly tubing although being stronger, is by nature more brittle and more likely to fatigue and crack rather than just flex.

Road and track racing will put a heavy load on the parts, but having your tire drop into a pothole or hit a curb at high speed would be more extreme.

That type of impact would have greater force experienced in a much shorter period of time, fractions of a second.

That is why I previously mentioned that periodic inspection of the performance parts in my books is a must.

Another consideration is the quality of materials used, like anything else there can be bad batches and defects, and that is usually out of the part manufacturers control.

One practice I do not like to see though, is excessive lightening of bracing, gussets etc in critical areas, that is the wrong place to try and save weight.

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Ok, so let's discuss the 2011-up units more. You are saying the 18mm hole does not need to be enlarged for the 19mm ball joint stud? From what I have been told (but I do not know this for sure) Ford instructions say to ream or drill out the spindle hole on the 18mm cars for installation of the replacement 19mm control arm. <<This does not need to be done? I am interested in a good set of control arms, or at least updated. How does the Delrin wear for street use? and additional NVH?

 

Is this 18mm vs. 19mm (or 19.2) a stud length difference? or what exactly is measured at 18 or 19?

 

I see the M-3075-R is the FR500C performance control arm, but is the earlier design and the M-3075-RA is the newer design performance control arm as used on the BOSS LS application.

 

 

 

 

R

Robert,

 

The OEM 2011 - 2014 LCA has a 19MM diameter shaft on the ball joint's ball stud and the groove/slot in which the cross/pinch bolt which tightens the spindle to the ball joint is in the stock location. You do not have to drill out the spindle to fit the 19MM ball joint, simply spread it slightly with a chisel end to open it up enough to slide the ball joint ball stud up through the hole of the spindle (be outward enough to be able to slide the cross/pinch bolt through the side hole).

 

On the FRPP M-3075 - RA (2011 - 2014) it is the groove height on the ball joint's ball stud that they are referring to as being 19.2MM higher up on the stud than on the OEM LCA. The RA unit is NOT on the Boss LS it is the one used on the Boss 302S and Boss 302R track cars. It is intended to be used on a lowered S197 chassis. It's purpose is to re-establish the front roll center and must be used in conjunction with either the FRPP M-3130-R3 outer tie rod ends or M-3130-R4 adjustable bump steer correction kit ( at the outer tie rod position ).

 

The FR500C (early years with 18MM diameter ball joint stud) also has the extended length of 19.2MM as compared to the production LCA and needs to be used in conjunction with the FRPP M-3130-R2 outer tie rod ends.

 

As far as delrin bushings being used on the street they will last for some time but need maintenance (there are zerk fittings for servicing). You will feel a difference in steering response along with road feel. The vehicle doesn't really transmit much difference in NVH due to where it's location is. The lower support brace (FRPP M-5025-A) is another thing that really needs to be in play when using the delrin. The thing to watch out for when going this route is * the underside of the unibody floor where the back legs of the engine sub frame meet.

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Robert,

 

The OEM 2011 - 2014 LCA has a 19MM diameter shaft on the ball joint's ball stud and the groove/slot in which the cross/pinch bolt which tightens the spindle to the ball joint is in the stock location. You do not have to drill out the spindle to fit the 19MM ball joint, simply spread it slightly with a chisel end to open it up enough to slide the ball joint ball stud up through the hole of the spindle (be outward enough to be able to slide the cross/pinch bolt through the side hole).

 

On the FRPP M-3075 - RA (2011 - 2014) it is the groove height on the ball joint's ball stud that they are referring to as being 19.2MM higher up on the stud than on the OEM LCA. The RA unit is NOT on the Boss LS it is the one used on the Boss 302S and Boss 302R track cars. It is intended to be used on a lowered S197 chassis. It's purpose is to re-establish the front roll center and must be used in conjunction with either the FRPP M-3130-R3 outer tie rod ends or M-3130-R4 adjustable bump steer correction kit ( at the outer tie rod position ).

 

The FR500C (early years with 18MM diameter ball joint stud) also has the extended length of 19.2MM as compared to the production LCA and needs to be used in conjunction with the FRPP M-3130-R2 outer tie rod ends.

 

As far as delrin bushings being used on the street they will last for some time but need maintenance (there are zerk fittings for servicing). You will feel a difference in steering response along with road feel. The vehicle doesn't really transmit much difference in NVH due to where it's location is. The lower support brace (FRPP M-5025-A) is another thing that really needs to be in play when using the delrin. The thing to watch out for when going this route is * the underside of the unibody floor where the back legs of the engine sub frame meet.

 

I can't believe I have this picture in my archives from when I was discussing this with Tob on another forum, but this is the pinch attachment you are talking about............

 

006%202_zpsocsjhqti.jpg

 

^^^^^So spreading this 1mm to accept the 19mm ball joint sounds like it would work OR if an owner wanted to, find a 19mm drill bit and run it through the hole, using the original 18mm hole as a guide? Of course a drill press would be best.

 

----------------------------------

 

What if a person were to want to use their original large hydro bushing on the rear attachment of the RA arm? Is it as simple as sliding my original large bushing off of my 1000 original mile 2008 GT500 arm and sliding it on the rear of the RA? and then decide which direction to go on the front, Delrin and the zirk or a oem type bushing.

 

I would like the updated arm, I also really like grease fittings on suspension parts and I don't like the lack of grease fittings on the oem ball joints. I also like the R&R ability of the RA ball joint, plus adjustment for wear.........

 

I already have the Shelby bump steer adjustable tie rod ends on my car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

R

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I can't believe I have this picture in my archives from when I was discussing this with Tob on another forum, but this is the pinch attachment you are talking about............

 

006%202_zpsocsjhqti.jpg

 

^^^^^So spreading this 1mm to accept the 19mm ball joint sounds like it would work OR if an owner wanted to, find a 19mm drill bit and run it through the hole, using the original 18mm hole as a guide? Of course a drill press would be best.

 

----------------------------------

 

What if a person were to want to use their original large hydro bushing on the rear attachment of the RA arm? Is it as simple as sliding my original large bushing off of my 1000 original mile 2008 GT500 arm and sliding it on the rear of the RA? and then decide which direction to go on the front, Delrin and the zirk or a oem type bushing.

 

I would like the updated arm, I also really like grease fittings on suspension parts and I don't like the lack of grease fittings on the oem ball joints. I also like the R&R ability of the RA ball joint, plus adjustment for wear.........

 

I already have the Shelby bump steer adjustable tie rod ends on my car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

R

Yes, that is the spindle pinch bolt that I'm referring to. I have already seen where someone tried drilling out the spindle and 3 months later the hole opened up and caused slop so I had to do a replacement of the spindle and the ball joint so they must have done the drilling out by hand - definitely do it in a drill press if you are going that way. If you can get the OEM hydro bushing off of the arm cleanly and can place it in the proper clocking position on the RA arm then you are much better than I. I've tried numerous ways and have resorted to just replacing them with the Whiteline KCA433 piece.

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Yes, that is the spindle pinch bolt that I'm referring to. I have already seen where someone tried drilling out the spindle and 3 months later the hole opened up and caused slop so I had to do a replacement of the spindle and the ball joint so they must have done the drilling out by hand - definitely do it in a drill press if you are going that way. If you can get the OEM hydro bushing off of the arm cleanly and can place it in the proper clocking position on the RA arm then you are much better than I. I've tried numerous ways and have resorted to just replacing them with the Whiteline KCA433 piece.

 

 

Ok, so the hydro bushing does not just "slide off". That sucks. That is the reason why the bushings are not sold separately........

 

I wish the Whiteline's were Black instead of Yellow!! I looked at them a few months ago also. I also saw the brackets for shield attachment.

 

How do the Whiteline bushings hold up with proper/regular maint.? street driving?

 

 

 

 

R

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So far so good - have had them on my own 2007 GT500 for 3,000 miles and on others for longer and still all have been good. I think having the heat shields on them is a big benefit. JMO

 

From a geometry stand point, is there a benefit to installing the 2011-up arms with 19mm ball joints, even if they are the oem hydro bushing units as found on a production 2011-2014 GT500? <<<and actually I am seeing "after xx/xx/2009" as being a changing point for the LCA's and the listings say 2010-2014?

 

 

R

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That's surprising because I've taken early style LCAs off of some 2010 vehicles - don't know the production dates of them right now. I don't know of any geometry benefits from just the arms, just those of different ball joint lengths.

 

Here is one of the places I saw 2010-up Mustang for the front LCA's...............

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-LH-LEFT-DRIVERS-SIDE-LOWER-CONTROL-ARM-2010-13-FORD-MUSTANG-CR3Z-3079-C-/231419972896?fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item35e1b48d20:g:0ZYAAOSweW5VTo2M&vxp=mtr

 

..........but most places say 2011-up and I don't know where I saw the specific 2009 production date change, but I believe it is actually 2011-up for these newer version of control arms. The "C" suffix shown in the auction above is now a "D", and the D LCA's do have the tabs for the shield attachment.

 

Is it your thought that the inner sleeve of that large rear hydro-bushing is oriented and then pressed onto the shaft at the rear of the LCA? and that is why the bushing is virtually impossible to get off in one piece?

 

 

 

R

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Here is one of the places I saw 2010-up Mustang for the front LCA's...............

 

The "C" suffix shown in the auction above is now a "D", and the D LCA's do have the tabs for the shield attachment.

 

Is it your thought that the inner sleeve of that large rear hydro-bushing is oriented and then pressed onto the shaft at the rear of the LCA? and that is why the bushing is virtually impossible to get off in one piece?

 

 

 

R

Yes I believe that the inner sleeve is pressed onto the LCA and is in an oriented position.

 

One other piece of LCA trivia is that the shaft portion on which the hydro bushing is pressed onto on the early versions is solid whereas on the later LCAs it is hollow. FWIW

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  • 3 weeks later...

I wish I could find my papper work. But I had ford do the TSB on lower control arms on my 2008 gt500. When they did mine they had both updated LCA with new hydro bushing in both 07-10 gt500 with 18mm ball joints and 11-13 gt500 with 19mm ball joints. Ford installed the newer 18mm ball joints lca on my car an not the 19mm.

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