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Approved Oils for 2012 GT500?


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I thought I read something a while back that for this vintage of car, you had to use the Motorcraft branded Conaco 5w50 oil to keep the warranty active though I could not find the post when I searched today. Is this true or has a TSB come up to allow other oils?

 

The reason I bring this up is the "Change Oil" came up today (1725 miles on the car) and I called the local (or is it loco, you be the judge) Ford dealer. They quoted $70 for an oil change with Mobil 1 5w50. I also got pricing on parts alone and they want $10.68 / quart and $5.33 for a standard filter (this equal a total parts cost of over $80). How can they do this? A bulk tank of 5w50?

 

Being an old wrench turner, I'm all for getting the break in oil out with all it's metallic particles even though it's low mile but am wondering what's the deal? A quick scan of the internet and Mobil 1 can be ordered for $8.45/ quart.

 

TIA,

MikeW

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I believe per the owner's manual, it states 6.5 quarts for this engine, the new 2013 bumps this up to 8 quarts. Did not have a coupon, made a phone call to the service department and got the quote. When I first asked for a cost, they rattled off the normal 5 quart change but quickly more than doubled the cost once she knew that it took the 5w50 oil. When I take it in I was going reverify as I won't put up with a bait and switch.

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After resesarching the properties of Motorcraft 5w50 (and motor oil in general), I won't be using it in my car. Dumped the factory fill at 1,200 and now I'm running Mobil1 0w40 for the next 2,000 miles, as a cheap-ish over-the-counter 2nd-phase break-in oil (need moar hyphens!). At 3K I'll dump it again and switch either to Redline 5w50 or Amsoil 10w40. I will be getting a UOA done with every oil change, to keep tabs on wear.

 

With the UOA, I'm easily at $100 per change, and I do all the work. Not recommended if you're looking to save a buck.

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... I will be getting a UOA done with every oil change, to keep tabs on wear...

 

Excuse my ignorance but what does the MLA (multiple letter acronym) UOA stand for?

 

Thx to all the posters for the info.

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email the various oil companies Valvoline,Castrol et al to see if theyr certified in the Gt500--when i bought my car only Motorcrfat and Castrol wree approved. If an engine problem arises and you cant prove you used the correct oil, good luck.I buy mine from Kman--he ships everywhere and was charging 7.25/qt plus shipping--i buy 14 at a time, and shipping to me in Atl was 15--making the effective price like 8.25--then i bring the oil and filter into the localoil change guys, whos got some senior folks working their and pay them 20 bucks while i watch--im out like 80. I just dont see why folks fool around with in my case a 54K car to save a few cents really---I changed my oil at 600 to get rid of all the shavings early, and i have the extended warranty so no performance mods either

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The Ford spec is WSS-M2C931-B. Castrol EDGE w/Syntec 5w50 is no longer certified (as of late 2011 I think). Mobil 1 doesn't list a 5w50 oil on their site (and shows "No product available in the U.S." if you enter 2012 GT500 into their search tool), but apparently you can get 5w50 through Napa. Valvoline SynPower does not come in 5w50. Amsoil does not offer a 5w50 (though there is non-trivial evidence that their 10w40 is perfect for 5.4l code-S engines with the stock thermostat). Redline 5w50 seems to be certified and I've read good things about Redline oil.

 

I'm choosing Redline and Amsoil based on multiple Used Oil Analyses showing MC 5w50 degrading to a low-grade 40-weight oil after a few hundred miles. I don't have confidence in their formulation so I'm going with higher-quality (but more expensive - about $10/qt) lubricants. I completely understand and sympathise with people who see that as a risk and want to stick with Motorcraft. Especially during the warranty period, if you have a fear that somehow the dealer will be able to tell what brand of oil you're using. I haven't yet worked out how that could happen, but I do understand the fear.

 

I do all my own non-warranty work, up to the limits of the tools I own, because I don't trust other people working on my cars. Are they laying down microfiber on the fenders before leaning on the car? Wearing clean latex gloves so they don't put oil smudges on the engine components? Do they wipe the dipstick as it comes out of the hole so it doesn't drip on things? Thoroughly clean the male and female threads of the drain plug, plus use a new washer? IOW, are they as utterly anal-retentive as I am? I had some JiffySpeedyFastLube drone cross-thread a drain plug once - that scarred me for life I think. That and way too many greasy finger prints on upholstery.

 

My car's only $49K-ish and having others' grubby mits on/around it gives me the heebie-jeebies! :lol: I don't even like taking my old F-150 to the mechanic. I wish I knew of a couple of "senior folks" who I could trust! I have to say that the guy at the local Ford dealer who helped with my bad fuel pump earlier this year seemed a good sort. If I have to have warranty work done, I'm not too concerned. Still not inclined to take it in for routine maintenance, tho. What the heck are all these tools for then? :)

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The Ford spec is WSS-M2C931-B. Castrol EDGE w/Syntec 5w50 is no longer certified (as of late 2011 I think). Mobil 1 does not offer a 5w50 oil. Valvoline SynPower does not come in 5w50. Amsoil does not offer a 5w50 (though there is non-trivial evidence that their 10w40 is perfect for 5.4l code-S engines with the stock thermostat). Redline 5w50 seems to be certified and I've read good things about Redline oil.

 

 

Mobil 1 does make a 5w-50 oil. Bought mine from Napa. The part# is 98HF24. I believe the cost was around $55 for a case of six. Bought two cases and it came to $115.

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I know I'll probably get blasted for this but really,..... is there that much difference? These modern engines are so well made that the days of new rings, bearings, and valve guide seals, etc., are pretty much over unless you are driving a ton of miles. All this back and forth over the subtle qualities between the different brands is pretty mute unless you have a dedicated track car only, and your engine is stressed to the maximum. Most of us won't keep a car long enough to encounter these issues. The Motorcraft oil is excellent and the factory backs its use. I can't recall one thread in any of the Shelby forums that alludes to a damaged engine because of the failure of Ford's synthetic oil. I just don't see it as an issue of concern for our cars. Put in the Motorcraft oil, preserve your warranty, and enjoy the car! I think we tend to get too microscopic in our obsessions over the car. The difference in price is negligible in most cases, so I think it really boils down to individual brand loyality rather than which is marginally better. I just stick with what Ford recommends and go from there.

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Agree with Reptile--and you have to wonder since Ford doesnt make oil, why would they supply an oil that is worse than the that you can buy on the market,including the Amway product, which doesnt make anything. If engines were failing because the folks are using Motorcraft , they d switch to a better oil,or at least certify them for use

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Mobil 1 does make a 5w-50 oil. Bought mine from Napa. The part# is 98HF24.

 

Interesting. Mobil 1 doesn't list it on their site, and if you do a "help me find the right oil", it comes back with this:

 

Current Vehicle: Year: spacer.gif 2012 Make: spacer.gif Ford Model: spacer.gif Mustang Engine Type: spacer.gif 8cyl. 5.4Liter Supercharged

Special Requirement; No Product in US

No products available in the US meeting requirements for this make/model.

 

Nevertheless, I see that you've posted this in other forums and people are purchasing it so... :headscratch: Does it list the Ford spec on the bottle? I wonder if it's a Canadian-market product that can be bought through US locations? Odd.

 

Anyway, I'll go update my other post, in case someone else is browsing through the thread. Thanks for the info.

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Agree with Reptile--and you have to wonder since Ford doesnt make oil, why would they supply an oil that is worse than the that you can buy on the market,including the Amway product, which doesnt make anything. If engines were failing because the folks are using Motorcraft , they d switch to a better oil,or at least certify them for use

 

Amway? If anybody uses Amway products in their car, they're crazy! :hysterical:

 

I think there's an argument to be made for longer-term wear properties of oils that shear as quickly as the MC oil does, and with low-ish TBN (detergent) numbers, but I'm sympathetic to people who just want to stick with the manufacturer's parts. I don't sell oil so I don't really have much reason to convince anybody. Just offering up my ideas. I did a lot of research before switching, and I wouldn't think most people would want to spend that kind of time, especially if you're going to own the car for just a few years. Use the MC oil and be happy; likely you will not ever, ever have a problem. Gonna save you $$$ too.

 

 

Edit - if anybody does like doing research, start at Bob Is The Oil Guy. More than you ever wanted to know about Group II/III/IV/V Base Packs, AdPacks, Hydrocracking, bla bla bla. Good for insomniacs.

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Interesting. Mobil 1 doesn't list it on their site, and if you do a "help me find the right oil", it comes back with this:

 

Current Vehicle: Year: spacer.gif 2012 Make: spacer.gif Ford Model: spacer.gif Mustang Engine Type: spacer.gif 8cyl. 5.4Liter Supercharged

Special Requirement; No Product in US

No products available in the US meeting requirements for this make/model.

 

Nevertheless, I see that you've posted this in other forums and people are purchasing it so... :headscratch: Does it list the Ford spec on the bottle? I wonder if it's a Canadian-market product that can be bought through US locations? Odd.

 

Anyway, I'll go update my other post, in case someone else is browsing through the thread. Thanks for the info.

 

 

You got it, its a Canadian-market product. There are several dealers that sell it.

 

Guys, almost undoubtedly whichever oil you use will not be the cause if you by chance have engine failure. It will be that 4.0L Whipple and 150 shot of dope :hysterical: Change the oil on time and have fun.

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