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2012 GT500 w/ SVTPP Lower Springs


Roush GR40

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Thanks for the info, Phill. I just read a post over on fordgt500.com that lowering the car will probably cause the rear axle to shift off-center. They say this can be corrected by installing a new (adjustable?) panhard bar, and/or a Watts link. Is this necessary? If so, do you have any recommendations for brands/parts to use? Or, is it possible to have the axle re-aligned when I take the car in to get it's alignment checked after the spring install? Thanks again!

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Thanks for the info, Phill. I just read a post over on fordgt500.com that lowering the car will probably cause the rear axle to shift off-center. They say this can be corrected by installing a new (adjustable?) panhard bar, and/or a Watts link. Is this necessary? If so, do you have any recommendations for brands/parts to use? Or, is it possible to have the axle re-aligned when I take the car in to get it's alignment checked after the spring install? Thanks again!

 

 

Mine moved the rear axle over 1/2 inch over to the left, for a total of 1" off-center.

 

I used a Shelby (BMR) adjustable panhard bar but I'd probably go with a Cobra Jet item if I did it again. I went with the Shelby item to keep with my front end parts (and because Roush doesn't offer one).

 

You *must* get a adjustable panhard bar to relocate the axle. It can't be done otherwise, other than maybe drilling another hole in the bar mount on the car.

 

I have heard of one or two others that didn't need to move it over, not sure why (not as low, perhaps???).

 

A Watts link isn't *necessary* but it is a 'nice to have' addition. I may eventually go to one myself because even on straight-line acceleration, when the rear squats the axle shift and wants to give the car some "rear-steer" and kicks the rear end over. A watts link keeps the rear axle from shiting on body roll and raise/squat. A panhard bar has a arc and the axle shifts right/left as the rear moves up/down.

 

If you install a adjustable panhard bar any decent alignment shop/tech can adjust it, It's real easy to do yourself with a plumb-bob on a string. Just hold the bob off of the fender edge and measure the distance to/from the wheel. Adjust it over half of the distance and you're good (on ramps or a drive-on rack with the rear suspension loaded and car level).

 

 

HTH,

Phill

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Any thoughts on this bar from J&M? It appears to be the same as the Shelby part, but $30 cheaper with free shipping.

http://www.americanm...nhard-0512.html

 

 

They're all about the same.

 

I wouldn't hesitate to buy this one.

 

 

Phill

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  • 1 month later...

I know, bringing back an old thread here- but my curiosity has the best of me.

 

I plan to do my FRPP lowering kit install in a couple weeks when I get home from work. I have the springs and new bump stops from Ford Racing. I bought a BMR adjustable panhard bar from AmericanMuscle. However, during my continued research on this topic, I have seen that some owners are using caster/camber(?) plates on the front suspension. Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly do these accomplish, and are they necessary for this lowering project? Is their installation simple enought (could I figure it out on my own)? If they are necessary, is there a particular brand that any of you could recommend and where to purchase?

 

Thanks in advance for any info/advice!!

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I'm doing this install now. Almost done in fact. I'm using Tokico struts and shocks, eibach pro springs ant MM caster camber plates.

 

All of these parts were recommended by a TS member. Including the caster camber plates.

 

I was originally going to use camber bolts and he strongly recommended the plates. Others have used the bolts with no problems. I guess if you have the funds go with the plates as they will offer more adjustability.

 

MM = Maximum Motorsports. They are the same as the Shelby ones minus the Shelby logo.

 

 

Almost forgot, my car also is a 2011 svtpp.

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Harley and SteelTown,

 

Thanks for the replies. After doing more research on this, I'm just going to get the bolts. If for some reason they don't work well or wear out over time, I'll upgrade to the c/c plates then. I'll try to post up some pictures once I'm done- I'm pretty excited to see how the car will look when all finished!

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Looks perfect, what other parts did you use if any?

 

 

Thanks. I also added the BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar to center the rear axle. As the drop is only about 1.25", no chamber bolts/plates were necessary. The car tracks perfectly. I had the exact same set-up on my '08 GT500 with similar results.

 

 

Did you put those grabber blue stripes on aftermarket?

 

 

Those are OEM stripes... I added the SVTPP wheels.

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  • 2 weeks later...

GL w/install. You'll have to post pics went completed...

 

 

Did the install last week, frpp "L" springs and tokico d-specs all around. Love the look and the handling 100% better. The rear tire is a 295/30/20- I wanted to keep the stock height tire.

 

100_1953.jpg

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Did the install last week, frpp "L" springs and tokico d-specs all around. Love the look and the handling 100% better. The rear tire is a 295/30/20- I wanted to keep the stock height tire.

 

100_1953.jpg

 

 

Can you post a link for these springs? Hows the ride quality? Is it any more harsh?

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  • 1 month later...

I have a 2012 with SVT package. I had installed M-5300-L 2007-2012 MUSTANG SVT 1.25" LOWERING SPRINGS and I love how my car looks now...!!

 

http://www.fordracin...rtKeyField=9882

 

You can read that the car will be lowered 1.25". it's recomemnded to add Mustang Jounce Bumper Kit M-5570-A & M-18183-C Strut Mounts

 

 

Hi Amigo GT500, I am also planning to lower my Shelby GT500 2011. Did you change the jounce bumpers and the strut mounts too?

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Hi Amigo GT500, I am also planning to lower my Shelby GT500 2011. Did you change the jounce bumpers and the strut mounts too?

 

 

I have the same lowering kit in my 2010. I added the FRPP jounce bumpers and even trimmed off the top 'buldge' for slightly more travel.

 

I also used the Shelby (Maximum Motorsports) Caster/Camber adjuster plates but you still retain your stock top strut mount rubbers with them (or your stock plates).

 

Does that answer your question?

 

 

Phill

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Did the install last week, frpp "L" springs and tokico d-specs all around. Love the look and the handling 100% better. The rear tire is a 295/30/20- I wanted to keep the stock height tire.100_1953.jpg

 

 

Looks good! Your rear tires are the same size that I'm considering for the limited edition alcoas I have pre-ordered. What size tires do you have on the front?

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