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New 2012 stalls after driving at highway speed


Boidster

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In addition to a loud fuel pump (?) in my brand new 2012, I seem to have a problem with the car stalling after highway speed driving. Or at least both times I ran it up to 65-ish last night, it stalled when I pushed in the clutch after coasting in gear down to about 45. Started right up and drove normally after both stalls, but it was a bit surprising! Lower speed, stop and go driving did not produce any issues.

 

I found a couple of threads about this issue on older models and the answer seemed to be "need a new tune." Thing is, this car is bone stock. Right off the delivery truck. So I'm thinking maybe bad gas from the dealer? Car only had 16 miles on it when I got it (today), so I bet it just had the gas from original shipment in it. Had just under 1/2 tank; I filled it with 91 (best we can get here) before the two highway runs.

 

Or maybe it is the tune? Can I go to the dealer and ask for some alternate stock tune? Should I drive a full tank through it and see how it goes?

 

Thanks for any advice!

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Run some new gas through it and see. If it's still doing after the second tank, take it in under warranty. Also with the 6-speed if it stalls at highways speeds, just leave it in gear and slowly let the clutch out. It should restart. I had an issue on my '03 Mach 1 at highway speed and letting the clutch out would restart it in gear every time. Won’t work on an automatic but usually will on a manual.

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I had a bad fuel pump @ 6 miles on my 2010. Wasn't assembled correctly, missing a lock ring on one of the fuel lines. Built Ford tough. The pump would hiss and make a loud noise when you turn the key on. Not the normal whine, I mean LOUD.

 

Funny, I also have that problem (loud fuel pump - even while driving). I would have expected a failing pump to cause problems under acceleration and cruise (as well as maybe causing this stalling problem).

 

Well, it was only the first day, and the car only has 23 miles. I'll let it break in a bit and see if things don't calm down. I will alert the local dealer a) that there's a new Cobra in town and B) about the possible issues. I also need to negotiate with them about the paint and interior warranty that the original (out of state) dealer added onto the sticker. Maybe i can get them to honor it.

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Some of the earlier Mustangs had a fuel cavitation issue, this would happen more when decelerating after a long cruise. Hard to diag but if you have a loud pump this

may be the issue. Will have no fault codes and the engine may at times come close to stalling on decel then recover.

Hope this helps

 

Ted

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Thanks Ted. With 100 miles on it now, the stalling issue seems to be gone, which is great. The loud fuel pump still happens on cold startup and then fades away within the first couple of miles. I found a new symptom tonight - when putting my foot into it at, say, 30MPH in 2nd or 3rd, the car will snort and lurch first - like a carbureted engine with a bad accel pump - then launch. I think this is consistent with either bad fuel, a weak fuel pump, or an incorrect (stock) tune. My instinct is that I have a dodgy, but otherwise working fuel pump that is noisy when first started, plus a tank of bad gas from sitting at the origin dealer for who-knows-how-many months.

 

I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow to have them listen to the noise. I'll report back.

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The loud fuel pump still happens on cold startup and then fades away within the first couple of miles.

 

I found a new symptom tonight - when putting my foot into it at, say, 30MPH in 2nd or 3rd, the car will snort and lurch first - like a carbureted engine with a bad accel pump - then launch. I think this is consistent with either bad fuel, a weak fuel pump, or an incorrect (stock) tune. My instinct is that I have a dodgy, but otherwise working fuel pump that is noisy when first started, plus a tank of bad gas from sitting at the origin dealer for who-knows-how-many months.

 

 

You are describing the symptom of a bad TPS.

 

And the only way to diagnose that is with a lab scope. It won't set a code unless it fails high or low (or total failure). What you have is what we cal "Hash", "Static" or "Noise". That is caused by a glitch in the potentiometer (TPS) windings and is easy to catch if you know how to look for it (HINT: *Most* Tech's DO NOT).

 

A bad fuel pump CAN give you those symptoms too and with yours being loud while cold, that's a future problem waiting to happen.

 

But...a bad fuel pump will show up MORE at High throttle opening at high RPM under a high boost condition (i.e. "HIGH FUEL DEMAND" area). Same with a partially plugged fuel filter (MORE obvious at high fuel demand times).

 

Good luck. You're gonna need it. Either that or a GOOD (well trained) Tech.

 

EDIT: They're gonna tell you "that's normal", mark my words!

 

 

Phill

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Thanks Phill (or not!) for the diagnosis. At least I can mention the TPS when I go in, see if it leads them down the right path. Today the fuel pump was quiet all day, but the car had only "normal" 5.4L power. When I stomped on it I got stuttering and hesitation followed by uneven normal V8 acceleration. Boost gauge showed 8-9 PSI but I'm 99% certain I was not actually getting supercharged power. I've driven a Corvette ZHZ which has the 436HP LS3 engine and it would smoke my car right now. :-(

 

How much is a new TPS if they say it's normal and I just want to change it myself? I guess I can just go Google that question...

 

Edit: all I seem to find for 2012 are Holley universals. But seems to be $100-ish, which I could stomach if the dealer tech is an idiot. Got 4 dealers around, too, so mebbe this is a good way to choose a good service home for the car. The tech who takes me seriously and tests the TPS wins.

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Car threw code P0191 tonight. I have a couple of things to try, but Monday I'm calling for a service appt. Fuel system needs a thorough once-over. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

 

I"m too lazy to look it up. What system is the P0191 code pointing you to?

 

 

Phill

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"Fuel Rail Pressure Range/performance". Based on the collected symptoms, my guess is that the failing pump Is working well enough for normal un-boosted driving, but can't keep up with fuel demand under boost.

 

 

I bet it has the EXACT problem mine had. Bad assembly of fuel pump. Don't forget the car has TWO fuel pumps. Only one of mine was incorrectly attached. That means it was fine in normal driving.

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I would drive the car with the Tech. with me so that he can see what your car is doing. Also, I would be very leery about leaving the car there unless you can trust them not to abuse it. You don't want to see it on a YouTube video!

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Thanks Phill (or not!) for the diagnosis. At least I can mention the TPS when I go in, see if it leads them down the right path. Today the fuel pump was quiet all day, but the car had only "normal" 5.4L power. When I stomped on it I got stuttering and hesitation followed by uneven normal V8 acceleration. Boost gauge showed 8-9 PSI but I'm 99% certain I was not actually getting supercharged power. I've driven a Corvette ZHZ which has the 436HP LS3 engine and it would smoke my car right now. :-(

 

How much is a new TPS if they say it's normal and I just want to change it myself? I guess I can just go Google that question...

 

Edit: all I seem to find for 2012 are Holley universals. But seems to be $100-ish, which I could stomach if the dealer tech is an idiot. Got 4 dealers around, too, so mebbe this is a good way to choose a good service home for the car. The tech who takes me seriously and tests the TPS wins.

 

Don't buy that "it's normal" crap and don't spend a dime of your own money. That's what you have a warranty for.

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Boidster,

 

I have exactly the same problem with my new shelby gt 500 only the noise I don't have. After longer highway driving it stalls like you discribe. Had some motor faults (p1227)after full throttle. A friend of mine has also a GT500 with the same problem so i hope you can tell me what the problem is. As we are in europe it is very difficult to find an expert. I had the TPS replaced but didn't solve the problem I also use 97 ron fuel that is european RONS

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Medihummer,

 

Well, the issue I had with stalling after highway driving has gone away. The problem I have now is almost certainly a bad fuel pump, which could have contributed to the stalling issue, I'm not sure. A quick Google search shows that P1227 is a supercharger wastegate issue (or, according to one person, possibly the EGR valve, MAF, or SIP sensor).

 

I think you will have a more difficult problem to diagnose than I had (the noisy pump was a big clue for me). You might want to start your own thread and see if you can get help from some experts on here. I'm definitely not an expert. I know engines okay, but no experience with Mustangs older than 1967. :-)

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I would drive the car with the Tech. with me so that he can see what your car is doing. Also, I would be very leery about leaving the car there unless you can trust them not to abuse it. You don't want to see it on a YouTube video!

 

Yeah, tell me about it. I'm going to remove the back seats at home tonight, so they don't get their grubby mits on them. Probably cover the front seats and floor mats in trash bags, too. I know the car will get a bit dinged up eventually from use, but dammit at 160 miles I'm not ready for any dirt, grease, or scuffs! :rant2:

 

Taking a car to the dealer just gives me hives, man. They all have crappy reviews online, and one local dealer screwed me over bigtime on repairs to my F-150. And they've all changed names in the last couple of years, so now the dealer that screwed me - call them "Dealer X" - has a new name and the closest dealer to me has adopted the name "Dealer X". I had to ask them if they were affiliated with the original Dealer X because I vowed a blood oath to never, ever give them another dime. Apparently the new Dealer X is a different set of people. Even so, the service manager (sorry, "Service Advisor") was rather short on the phone, and did not seem very interested in the research I'd done on the problem. We'll see if he's a "gimme the car and go wait in the waiting room" sort, or if he works with me as a knowledgeable owner to solve the problem. My money's on the former, but we'll see.

 

He said, "We can get you in tomorrow morning if you can leave it with me," so hopefully I can get the initial drive in while I'm there, and then request no post-fix test drives unless I'm present. Crossing my fingers...

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Got the back seat out no problemo. When I started the car to finish backing it into the garage, I got the noise again and sure enough it was coming directly from the driver's side fuel pump access hole. I could feel the vibration through the plastic cap/plug on the hole. Should be an easy fix.

 

Also bagged the seat, steering wheel, interior door grab handle, shifter, E-brake, floor mats, and put blue painter's tape on door sill and trim edges on both sides. I already have one permanent scuff from a boot (presumably) of one of the transport drivers who shipped my car. Service Advisor can roll his eyes all he wants; I don't want no grease or scratches and the little paper doily they put down (then ignore) isn't going to cut it.

 

Looks like I'm fixin' to kill someone in the car, ala Pulp Fiction. Heh.

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Well, the pump did make its special noise for the service manager, so that's nice. He knows I'm not making stuff up. And he noted on the repair order that I want to drive the car if it needs to be test driven.

 

The guy who puts down the paper floor mats walked over to my car with paper in hand, ready to do his job, then kinda froze when he saw most of the driver's side encased in plastic. I said, "I've kinda protected it already." He said, "Seems so." :)

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Service manager called, said, "You were right on the money - it needs a new fuel pump." Has to bring one up from KC tomorrow morning. He has his Shelby-owning technician working on my car, which gives me a measure of reassurance. That guy gets it, I'm sure. :shades: (And understands why the interior is wrapped up like dead body parts LOL)

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Got the car back today. Holy crap. It now accelerates in 5th like it used to do in 3rd. And it breaks loose in 3rd. Whoo!

 

Service folks were great; looks like I'll have a good home for the car when it needs work. Best $0 I ever spent! :-)

 

Next up: clear bra. Lots of gravel on the shoulders around here...

 

Thanks for everyone's help!

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Since tps was replaced i didnt have the 1227 fault any more

i have another issue now from time to time the tractioncontrole lights flicker on and off again some seconds later no engine problems can somebody help?

A friend of me says that the ford racing 750 hp kit has a faulty software is that right?

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