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E brake cables on widened SuperSnake wheels


fordcobra420

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Anyone have any rubbing issues with their ebrake cables on their Alcoa SuperSnake widened wheels? I heard something right away, asked someone at Shelby American about the noise, but didn't know at the time. But had a fuel pump relay fuse blow and when the car was on the lift discovered the cables are wore almost thru. have not yet fabed a bracket to hold them away, just a couple zip ties. Anyone else have this problem? Ane have you made a bracket to hold them away?post-35637-0-56225200-1327174056_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, but at least your new gears in the rear were broke in. Otherwise you would drive 25 miles and wait a few hrs and then again and again. I got about 3000 after all my SS upgrades. I did have 9000 miles before she became a SS. I heard the rubbing after a couple days of cruising up and down the strip in Vegas. I became aware in Oct and notified the speed shop to look into it. I will be getting something figured out soon.

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Keep me posted what comes out of your discussion with speed shop. I have the 305's on mine too. Mine is #75 so they may have figured something out differently between our builds. I don't have the flat white stripe - they recently went to the gloss white which is what is on mine.

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Are you using factory Lower Control Arms? Suggestion about Zip ties need a little caution, particualrly not to tie to springs. Parking brake cables need fredom to move as axle moves up and down. Making solid tie down will restrict cables and the wear out point could become accelerated. Best is to make one tie strip completely tied to the control arm and a second under the first and a loop to allow cable to move along its length freely. Be certain to get heaviest Ties you can to allow for wear created by cable moving throung the loop.

 

Note that it is best to secure tie to control arm last. You with most likely have to move it toward the rear bumper to insure cable stays away from the wider wheel. My J&M arms from Dearborn needed the straps because they do not have the hole production arms had for routing an I did not want them slapping the control arms. Seriously looking to buy the Shelby arms due to having the holes to pass the cables through.

 

Hope this helps. PM if you have questions. Might be able to shoot a picture of my set up.

 

Tom

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  • 2 weeks later...
Are you using factory Lower Control Arms? Suggestion about Zip ties need a little caution, particualrly not to tie to springs. Parking brake cables need fredom to move as axle moves up and down. Making solid tie down will restrict cables and the wear out point could become accelerated. Best is to make one tie strip completely tied to the control arm and a second under the first and a loop to allow cable to move along its length freely. Be certain to get heaviest Ties you can to allow for wear created by cable moving throung the loop. Note that it is best to secure tie to control arm last. You with most likely have to move it toward the rear bumper to insure cable stays away from the wider wheel. My J&M arms from Dearborn needed the straps because they do not have the hole production arms had for routing an I did not want them slapping the control arms. Seriously looking to buy the Shelby arms due to having the holes to pass the cables through. Hope this helps. PM if you have questions. Might be able to shoot a picture of my set up. Tom
I have the Ford Tuned Racing suspension, anti-hop traction rearend upgrade, with billet aluminum traction bars. I will get back to my car in about 2 weeks and will go back to the dealership and put her back on the lift and see how my zip ties held so far, probably replace the old cables and check for the amount of movement needed and fab a bracket that will provide some slippage yet hold the cable off my rims. Thanks for your imput and will be at the 50th bash. Shannon
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Keep me posted what comes out of your discussion with speed shop. I have the 305's on mine too. Mine is #75 so they may have figured something out differently between our builds. I don't have the flat white stripe - they recently went to the gloss white which is what is on mine.
Mine is 2011, with the gloss white stripe also, very nice with the Kona blue. I have the Ford Tuned racing suspension and the anti-hop traction upgrade, with billet aluminum traction bars. Polished 750hp blower, headers and no cats. I am impressed with the amount of hookup I get with the 800hp package. The 305's are fine when in a warm climate. I am going to get some steel rims and mount some 315's and head to the strip and see how we can do.
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