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Towing a Shelby


pmason718

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Has anyone put there Shelby on a open trailer to tow it. The reason I ask is b/c when its time to buy one I want to purchase it in NC or in GA where Michael is located and I'm wondering what size trailer is needed for the car to fit properly. If some has I would also like to know what are you using on the car to tie it down to (would love pics) as well as what type of tie-downs. I have an enclosed trailer for my bikes but I know this different

 

 

 

Also how much does the Shelby weigh?

 

 

 

Thanks guys

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It's pretty generic stuff, really - not much differentthan towing anything else, though I'd certainly recommend a trailer with integrated brakes.

 

The biggest variable will be whether or not you want extra length (and who doesn't?) - but in THIS case to carry a spare set of wheels/tools/whatever. And don't forget the ramps.

 

You're going to find the chin splitter doesn't suffer steep angles willingly, so the longer the ramps the better - even to the point using folding compound sets. The GOOD news is that plenty of affordable good, quality trailers abound, but so do more expensive options that could give you everything you need AND want - albeit sometimes at a hefty price.

 

I'd recommend prioritizing carefully - especially if you're running into limits on towing capacity for your tow vehicle. I've seen aluminum trailers weighing as little as 700-800 lbs, but all that lightness comes dearly.

 

Best of luck!

 

 

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Has anyone put there Shelby on a open trailer to tow it. The reason I ask is b/c when its time to buy one I want to purchase it in NC or in GA where Michael is located and I'm wondering what size trailer is needed for the car to fit properly. If some has I would also like to know what are you using on the car to tie it down to (would love pics) as well as what type of tie-downs. I have an enclosed trailer for my bikes but I know this differentAlso how much does the Shelby weigh?Thanks guys
The deck on my Featherlite open trailer is exactly 79 inches in width. This leave about 2 inches on either side...not a lot of wiggle room. You need Race ramps or 2x12 board to decrease approach angle or you will scrape the splitter..I have used over the tire tie-downs successfully, and they are fast to install..if you go with over the tire try to get the ones that come over the middle of the wheel and attach to side of trailer. If you get the type of over the tire strap that runs under your bumper you may have clearance issues with the strap when you tighten. . Thru the wheel is easy as well but you have the chance of scraping the finish on your wheels if you are not careful about protecting the wheel. Trying to crawl under the car for an axle strap is kinda hard to do... I have hauled my car thousands of miles with this setup no problems. Straps not shown in this photo.

 

My Shelby is 3860 pounds..and the trailer is about 2000 pounds... I tow with a 2006 Range Rover Sport with no problems.

 

post-26630-0-88459100-1320235701_thumb.jpg

post-26630-0-22277700-1320237232_thumb.jpg

post-26630-0-88459100-1320235701_thumb.jpg

post-26630-0-22277700-1320237232_thumb.jpg

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It's pretty generic stuff, really - not much differentthan towing anything else, though I'd certainly recommend a trailer with integrated brakes.

 

The biggest variable will be whether or not you want extra length (and who doesn't?) - but in THIS case to carry a spare set of wheels/tools/whatever. And don't forget the ramps.

 

You're going to find the chin splitter doesn't suffer steep angles willingly, so the longer the ramps the better - even to the point using folding compound sets. The GOOD news is that plenty of affordable good, quality trailers abound, but so do more expensive options that could give you everything you need AND want - albeit sometimes at a hefty price.

 

I'd recommend prioritizing carefully - especially if you're running into limits on towing capacity for your tow vehicle. I've seen aluminum trailers weighing as little as 700-800 lbs, but all that lightness comes dearly.

 

Best of luck!

 

 

My enclosed traiier has brakes so I wil def have brakes on this trailer

 

 

The deck on my Featherlite open trailer is exactly 79 inches in width. This leave about 2 inches on either side...not a lot of wiggle room. You need Race ramps or 2x12 board to decrease approach angle or you will scrape the splitter..I have used over the tire tie-downs successfully, and they are fast to install..if you go with over the tire try to get the ones that come over the middle of the wheel and attach to side of trailer. If you get the type of over the tire strap that runs under your bumper you may have clearance issues with the strap when you tighten. . Thru the wheel is easy as well but you have the chance of scraping the finish on your wheels if you are not careful about protecting the wheel. Trying to crawl under the car for an axle strap is kinda hard to do... I have hauled my car thousands of miles with this setup no problems. Straps not shown in this photo.

 

My Shelby is 3860 pounds..and the trailer is about 2000 pounds... I tow with a 2006 Range Rover Sport with no problems.

 

post-26630-0-88459100-1320235701_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

What is your trailer's length? Did you buy your straps locally or via web? Did you get a chance to look at the link I provided below with the trailers? If so what do you think of that brand? I know Haulmark, Pace and Featherlite are really good with Featherlite being really expensive, lol.

 

Also using the strap you uploaded a pic of above I would like to know where you are connecting it to on the trailer

 

 

sorry for all the questions

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I have the 17'6" model.. I would go longer next time because I have the air dam with a tire rack and the car barely fits with all the stuff up front. If you do not need to carry extra wheels and tires, etc the 17'6 is fine.

 

I have seen Pace and Haulmark trailers at all the races...the feather lite was my first trailer and so far has been great. I do not know much about enclosed trailers...there seem to be lots of options out there and some really good buys on ebay if you want to go this route.

 

I have seen a company called TRAILX advertised in my mustang mags...they look pretty decent as well.

 

You can connect the straps to side of trailer or underneath...there is a hook on the strap....my trailer also has e-trac or a-trac installed, so you can add or remove d-rings and tie-downs as needed. I also had a winch installed.. It is just easier for me to load and unload car at track this way...I don't need any help if car is non-operative. I had the air damn made locally as well as a tire rack but these options are available from Featherlite.

 

 

 

I bought the straps online from a company called www.uscargocontrol.com

 

 

M.

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I have the 17'6" model.. I would go longer next time because I have the air dam with a tire rack and the car barely fits with all the stuff up front. If you do not need to carry extra wheels and tires, etc the 17'6 is fine.

 

I have seen Pace and Haulmark trailers at all the races...the feather lite was my first trailer and so far has been great. I do not know much about enclosed trailers...there seem to be lots of options out there and some really good buys on ebay if you want to go this route.

 

I have seen a company called TRAILX advertised in my mustang mags...they look pretty decent as well.

 

You can connect the straps to side of trailer or underneath...there is a hook on the strap....my trailer also has e-trac or a-trac installed, so you can add or remove d-rings and tie-downs as needed. I also had a winch installed.. It is just easier for me to load and unload car at track this way...I don't need any help if car is non-operative. I had the air damn made locally as well as a tire rack but these options are available from Featherlite.

 

 

 

I bought the straps online from a company called www.uscargocontrol.com

 

 

M.

 

 

I don't want to go the enclosed route for the car. I also have the e track setup in my enclosed trailer, did yours come this way or did you have to add it. The winch that you added is this similar to the tow truck winch that you use to roll the car off of the ramp? What is the air damn for? I'm also thinking that if I need to carry extra wheels that I can just put them in the bed of the truck.

 

You said you have the 17'6" model is this the 8' or 8' 6" wide model?

 

Is this the one you bought? it looks similar or did you purchase a more expensive one?

 

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Towing-Auto-Hauling/Wheel-Nets-Auto-Car-Tie-Downs/Side-Mount-Wheel-Net-W-Ratchet-and-Flat-Hook

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The winch and e-trac and air damn are all options.. the air damn protects car from stuff kicked up by a tow vehicle. Yes, I bought all my straps from us cargo... I tried almost every product they had and the over the tire side mount was the easiest for me to work with. I now use a modified thru the wheel setup since the stock rims are off the car and I have a different wheel and tire setup for racing.

 

If you are towing occasionally the over the tire system should be fine.

 

The winch would be optional. I don't like driving my car up the ramps or backing off.. Most people can do this just fine and not trash their cars or trailers... I was originally drag racing the car and added the tow hook and winch in case the car crapped out at track.

 

I also have torque arms on the trailer to reduce tongue weight on the tow vehicle. I think that is what they are called. Not sure about that.. My mechanic installed them for me.

 

If you can get to some NASA or SCCA events to look at trailer setups you will learn a lot. That is what I did, came up with list, ordered trailer, modified trailer.

 

M.

 

OH! You need the 8'6" wide model. Don't even bother with the 8' model. Im not sure if they even sell that model much anymore.

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The winch and e-trac and air damn are all options.. the air damn protects car from stuff kicked up by a tow vehicle. Yes, I bought all my straps from us cargo... I tried almost every product they had and the over the tire side mount was the easiest for me to work with. I now use a modified thru the wheel setup since the stock rims are off the car and I have a different wheel and tire setup for racing.

 

If you are towing occasionally the over the tire system should be fine.

 

The winch would be optional. I don't like driving my car up the ramps or backing off.. Most people can do this just fine and not trash their cars or trailers... I was originally drag racing the car and added the tow hook and winch in case the car crapped out at track.

 

I also have torque arms on the trailer to reduce tongue weight on the tow vehicle. I think that is what they are called. Not sure about that.. My mechanic installed them for me.

 

If you can get to some NASA or SCCA events to look at trailer setups you will learn a lot. That is what I did, came up with list, ordered trailer, modified trailer.

 

M.

 

OH! You need the 8'6" wide model. Don't even bother with the 8' model. Im not sure if they even sell that model much anymore.

 

 

 

Thank you, you've been more than helpful and have answered all of my questions except one, lol. Wha do the torque arms look like? I will take your advise and hit up my local track and look at serveral setups, thanks

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Also how much does the Shelby weigh?

 

 

 

That depends on which model of Shelby you buy.

 

I have a 2010 GT500 Coupe (see my sig for mods).

 

I used my Rebco racing scales to weigh it (all 4 pads are calibrated, NASCAR & USAC confirmed their accuracy) and it came in right at 3895 pounds (3900 rounded off). That is with a Shelby/BMR tube K-member, a Steeda tubed radiator support, 18" Alcoa Dura-Bright KR wheels, a PST 1-pc Carbon Fiber driveshaft, etc.

 

I thought it would be lighter than 3900 but that didn't end up being the case.

 

There is a ongoing thread where a guy with a Shelby GT/CS (I think) weighed his on a public scale and it came in about 400 pounds less (if I remember correctly)...maybe it was 200 pounds less.

 

So like I said, it depends on which model of Shelby you plan to get.

 

You'll need a tandem axle trailer, at the very least. a single axle trailer doesn't give you the weight capacity to carry a 4000 pound car. The tires would be overloaded too and that will get you a serious citation from any State Trooper (not to mention a blown tire and a crashed or burned trailer and cargo).

 

 

HTH,

Phill Pollard

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Thanks guys. I will def go tandem. On my enclosed I went single b/c the most I've loaded inside the trailer was close to 1500lbs that's it.

 

I'm looking at this one. Do you think its really worth it to get the guard or wall in the front of the trailer to protect the car from road debris?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2012-Featherlite-176-Aluminum-Open-Car-Trailer-/230691170328?pt=Motors_Trailers&hash=item35b643e818

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I think they are called stabilizing arms...

 

 

That's a weight distributing (or equalizer) hitch. I use one for towing my (~4800 lb) 24' Carson FunRunner Toy Hauler. I also use TWO anti-sway bars with the hitch.

 

The weight distribution hitch nearly doubles your towing capacity which allowed me to tow my trailer with my old 2006 GMC 1500, optioned up to "HD" standards for a 6300 lb. towing capacity WITH the wt. distribution hitch (around 4K lb. w/o the weight distribution hitch).

 

Now I have a 2011 Ford F-150 4x4 that has 11,300 pound towing capacity with intergrated ABS/ESC trailer brake so I may not have to use the weight eq. hitch on it at all (I've yet to tow with it).

 

The hitch assy. costs around $350.oo and is WELL worth the price because of the added stability it gives you. That does not include the Class III/IV receiver that attaches to the tow vehicle, only the hitch, ball, weight bars (that come in different spring rates) and the connectors that attach to the trailer frame. Oh, and one anti-sway bar (a "cinch style" slide bar).

 

 

Phill

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That is the model I have.. before mods.. :))

 

Yes on air damn...

 

check out this site

 

http://www.goldengait.com/parts/air_dams/

 

 

For goodness sake, man, it is your NEW SHELBY!!!!! I will get an enclosed trailer next...a few years out.. When you haul your car in rain after being detailed it kinda sucks...when you are staying overnight in some unknown town and you cannot off load your car and are stuck at the Roach motel and are worried about theft and vandalism it kinda sucks as well.. I am new to all of this and the open trailer was the best option for me at the time. Next will probably be a 24 foot v-nose enclosed car hauler...with an F-150 ecoboost as tow vehicle.

 

M.

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...with an F-150 ecoboost as tow vehicle.

 

 

 

That's what I bought, in a King Ranch edition and Super/Crew Cab (4 doors).

 

I'm amazed with the 11,300 pound tow capacity. I *love* this truck, and I was already real fond of my GMC other that it being a "Regular Cab" so if you had so much as a JACKET, it had to sit on the front seat with you (i.e. NO room for extras in the cab).

 

I *thought* my GMC was optioned out but then I got this King Ranch. Sheesh, it's got every option under the sun.

 

I used to be a "GM Guy"...than all of a sudden I realized I somehow converted over to a "Ford Guy" in my sleep. Yep, I woke up one morning and looked in my garage only to see a FORD GT500, a FORD Flex Limited and a FORD F-150 King Ranch! <lol>

 

 

Phill

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That depends on which model of Shelby you buy.

 

I have a 2010 GT500 Coupe (see my sig for mods).

 

I used my Rebco racing scales to weigh it (all 4 pads are calibrated, NASCAR & USAC confirmed their accuracy) and it came in right at 3895 pounds (3900 rounded off). That is with a Shelby/BMR tube K-member, a Steeda tubed radiator support, 18" Alcoa Dura-Bright KR wheels, a PST 1-pc Carbon Fiber driveshaft, etc.

 

I thought it would be lighter than 3900 but that didn't end up being the case.

 

There is a ongoing thread where a guy with a Shelby GT/CS (I think) weighed his on a public scale and it came in about 400 pounds less (if I remember correctly)...maybe it was 200 pounds less.

 

So like I said, it depends on which model of Shelby you plan to get.

 

You'll need a tandem axle trailer, at the very least. a single axle trailer doesn't give you the weight capacity to carry a 4000 pound car. The tires would be overloaded too and that will get you a serious citation from any State Trooper (not to mention a blown tire and a crashed or burned trailer and cargo).

 

 

HTH,

Phill Pollard

 

 

Phill,

 

Does that include a topped-off fuel tank?

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I used to be a "GM Guy"...than all of a sudden I realized I somehow converted over to a "Ford Guy" in my sleep. Yep, I woke up one morning and looked in my garage only to see a FORD GT500, a FORD Flex Limited and a FORD F-150 King Ranch! <lol>

 

 

 

 

 

 

Phill

 

 

 

 

 

 

You forgot to mention the part about realizing, "What the HELL had I been THINKING?"

:)

 

 

 

 

Seriously - despite BOTH faiths always having had their own very different approaches, it wasn't until Ford bet the entire ranch on reinventing itself - and began focusing on delivering as MUCH as possible (value/innovation/quality) rather than as little as it could get away with that the entire world changed. Without the existential necessity of having its own bacon to save, all those tens of billions poured into GM were just never destined to deliver the same results - like a trust fund baby's new Porsche.

 

 

 

 

Your garage sounds like mine - I too have owned a Flex Limited AWD (which was the best vehicle I'd EVER owned, and broke my heart to trade) and only the Taurus SHO made trading it bearable. I'd LOVE to own a Flex EcoBoost - if only it could tow more. Trying to talk my wife into trading her 2009 MKS for an MKS EcoBoost so I can swap the SHO for another Flex. The V6 EcoBoost is SO amazing that I only wish the stupid CAFE mandates didn't prevent Ford from putting it in Explorer too. There are VERY few engines like it - even the 5.0 L and Supercharged 5.4 L V8's

 

 

 

 

I also own a Transit Connect - which I'm going to be trading for a tow vehicle. Rather than the F-150 route, I'm going with an Extended Length E-Series - despite the availability of ONLY the mediocre prior generation engines - (4.6 L V8, 5.4 L V8, and 6.8 L V10). Not only can I use it for my work, but it will make an ideal towing and track day support van - with everything from a generator, compressor, and tools to a fridge, digital workstation and mini-cot inside for between-session naps. It's a tough trade heading into the all-new full-sized Transit for 2013, but nobody knows what its towing capacity will be - despite the near-certainty that it will have absolutely STELLAR engines to choose from - including a likely diesel.

 

 

 

 

The BEST part of being a Ford devotee is that most people can't explain all the reasons why they like a particular car or brand - they just DO. With Ford, the reasons are obvious - and coming-up with a LAUNDRY LIST of reasons is simple.

 

 

 

 

Side note: Was at my dealer last night - where my 2011 GT500 Coupe is now parked in the showroom alongside the identical 2012 Convertible they ordered for me in error. I then looked over my shoulder and saw what looked like my 2009 Flex - which one of the salespeople had bought a year ago and drove for 3,000 miles. It was surreal - like being in my garage, but stuck in a time warp. I damn-near bought the Flex back - and WOULD HAVE, if only it were an EcoBoost. Ford just needs to get its product cadence right - and put into Flex things like Push Button Start, BLIS and Adaptive Cruise - the kind of stuff you can now even get on a Focus.

 

 

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BTW - WTF is going on with the center justification?

 

 

It's driving me crazy, and that's not a very far drive.

 

 

Phill

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It's driving me crazy, and that's not a very far drive.

 

 

Phill

 

 

 

I'm not sure what happen I probably accidentally hit the center just button. I know its not a far drive (8hr) one way to NC (16hr) one way to ATL but I figured I would pull it and when it comes time to hit up events a lil further away I would tow it as well

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The WORST part about the whole notion of trailering is how close, but never shy of, the maximum towing weights a GT500 and trailer happen to be - with all but the lightest (and most expensive) aluminum trailers.

 

Everything always seems to JUST top 5,000 lbs (especially with wheels/tools). The equipment would have no problem whatsoever, but it's the FIRST thing (after a breathalyzer) the insurance companies would verify if there were ever an accident.

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We have a kwik load trailer, no ramps needed. We've loaded the C6 and C5 Corvettes and my Mustang GT before it was traded in this year for the Shelby. We use the same front tire tie down system as MichaelP because the front air dams on the vettes are worse to deal with than the splitter on the Shelby. It tows great behind a 2010 Expedition and we didn't get the aluminum version. We did get the extra rail option for the side since it gives us more tiedown options. We use axle straps to secure the back. I really like the lights for loading at night. Ours is a 24'.

 

http://kwikload.com/

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