RobParrinello Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I have a 2007 GT500.. When i launch the car and slam on the gas the front of the car feels like its starts to bounce really violently and i have to completely let off the gas.. let the car catch and then continue to hit the gas again.. when is said bounce i mean it feels like the 2 front tires are coming off the ground and just bouncing, makes really loud noise inside car.. any ideas why? and if so what to fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr07shelby Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I have a 2007 GT500.. When i launch the car and slam on the gas the front of the car feels like its starts to bounce really violently and i have to completely let off the gas.. let the car catch and then continue to hit the gas again.. when is said bounce i mean it feels like the 2 front tires are coming off the ground and just bouncing, makes really loud noise inside car.. any ideas why? and if so what to fix it? Sound's like yIou are going into a rear wheel hop. If so turn off your traction control, this should solve your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang5 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Hi Rob, jr07Shelby is most likely correct. If you are experiencing what you said while the rear tires are spinning that is wheel hop. One of the compromises Ford had to make when setting this car up was to soften the suspension to avoid to much Noise Vibration and Harshness. If you are like most of us, you will put accept a slightly rougher ride to gain a stiffer better handling car. In my humble opinion the single best change you can make to this car is to install the Ford Racing lowing springs. This will do three things for you: it will give the car the slightly lowered stance that it deserves (1.25 inches lower then stock), it will give the car a much more planted feel in hard cornering and it also helps to eliminate a great majority of the wheel hop you are experiencing. If I remember right the springs are only a couple of hundred dollars and you can have them installed for about $200 more. Now if you are getting this bouncing feeling and you know the rear tires are not spinning, you most likely are getting clutch chatter. That can be resolved for the most part by going to a set of 3.73:1 gears in the rear end. The gear sets sell for about $160 and you will probably pay between $500 and $1000 to have them installed. I have done both of these changes to my own car and I often tell people this is how the car should have come in the first place. Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasShelby Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 The majority of early owners have installed springs, but when you do, you need to install an adjustable panhard bar or your rear end will not be centered left to right and it will take it's toll after a while. The best setup for a street car is to install a set of springs, FRPP is popular along with Eibach, Steeda and some others. I went with Steeda's vert specific spring, along with BMRs Adjustable panhard bar and BMRs lower control arms. I'm running 20" with no clearance problems and never bottom out. The lower control arms are the culprit in your wheelhop, you could just replace the bushings, but once you see them, you'll see they are a weak link in your suspension and doesn't cost much to change them out and easy to do when you do the springs and panhard. Just changing the LCAs will stop your wheel hop, but you wont' be happy with the hiney sitting that high. The car will handle much much better with springs. As well as look the way it's supposed to. You will be surprised after you install those 3 little things....a new car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobParrinello Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Its the front tires though.. and in the inside of the car it sounds like the dash is going to blow up from the front tires slamming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Its the front tires though.. and in the inside of the car it sounds like the dash is going to blow up from the front tires slamming Yep...that's the wheel hop. If the temps are cold out, it will even do it worse because the tires are like bricks in the cold temps. I did the BMR LCA's and it cured all of it in warm weather. I still get a little of it in cool weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secondo Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Yep...that's the wheel hop. If the temps are cold out, it will even do it worse because the tires are like bricks in the cold temps. I did the BMR LCA's and it cured all of it in warm weather. I still get a little of it in cool weather. You need to finish the job with an upper control arm, Rob. That will completely cure it. To the OP: Replace your upper and lower control arms with ones that have high-performance bushings. Its the soft rubber stock bushings that cause the wheelhop. Or just replace the bushings. Good luck and welcome to Team Shelby! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsfdiver Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 I would try and leave the bushing in the differential stock and replace the rest. The bushing in the differential is a bitch to get out because it is bonded to the metal. Replace the other upper and lower control arms or just the bushings and that should work. I still like the stock stance over the lowered look and may be quicker offf th line that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XY GTHO Phase III Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Yep...that's the wheel hop. If the temps are cold out, it will even do it worse because the tires are like bricks in the cold temps. I did the BMR LCA's and it cured all of it in warm weather. I still get a little of it in cool weather. Rob i wanted to ask a question about the LCA's you replaced. I am looking at doing this to get rid of wheel hop and I took a quick look under the rear axle and there appears to be a brake line (I think) that literallt goes thru a hole in the OEM LCA. When you replaced them did you needdisconnect and bleed the break lines, Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54First Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 there appears to be a brake line (I think) that literallt goes thru a hole in the OEM LCA It's the parking brake cable. Trace the cable to its end. Remove the clip. Remove the cable. Reroute. Reconnect. You may want to zip tie it to the new arm. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 There seems to be different methods to achieving the same results in eliminating the wheel hop. Some say aftermarket LCA's, some say aftermarket LCA's with LCA relocation brackets and then some say just a aftermarket UCA and finally both aftermarket LCA's and UCA. Is there a definitive cure or more of a personel preference to get rid of the hop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XY GTHO Phase III Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Thanks a lot mate, that sounds real easy as I just didn't want to bleed the system, Rob It's the parking brake cable. Trace the cable to its end. Remove the clip. Remove the cable. Reroute. Reconnect. You may want to zip tie it to the new arm. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE08 Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 There seems to be different methods to achieving the same results in eliminating the wheel hop. Some say aftermarket LCA's, some say aftermarket LCA's with LCA relocation brackets and then some say just a aftermarket UCA and finally both aftermarket LCA's and UCA. Is there a definitive cure or more of a personel preference to get rid of the hop? The LCA's will get rid of the wheel-hop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secondo Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I would try and leave the bushing in the differential stock and replace the rest. The bushing in the differential is a bitch to get out because it is bonded to the metal. Replace the other upper and lower control arms or just the bushings and that should work. I still like the stock stance over the lowered look and may be quicker offf th line that way. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 J&M Upper and lower control arms helped but did add more NVH. After that new shocks/ struts (Koni yellow) also helped but I still had just a little bit of "Wobble" on launch. The new one piece Coast Driveline AL Drive Shaft I put in two weeks ago seems to have solved that last little bit of hop/wobble on launch. But several months more of "Testing/Driving" are required to verify that. (105K miles now) MSB Mustang / Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamondback Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I have a 2007 GT500.. When i launch the car and slam on the gas the front of the car feels like its starts to bounce really violently and i have to completely let off the gas.. let the car catch and then continue to hit the gas again.. when is said bounce i mean it feels like the 2 front tires are coming off the ground and just bouncing, makes really loud noise inside car.. any ideas why? and if so what to fix it? My Car is stock and I have no issues with wheel hop unless the temp is below 60 degrees. Its the crappy, hard F1's on these cars. Just change to softer tires and you will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whammer Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 It's the parking brake cable. Trace the cable to its end. Remove the clip. Remove the cable. Reroute. Reconnect. You may want to zip tie it to the new arm. Steve BMR LCA cured it for me and I zip tied the parking brake cable to the LCA. Even when I Super Snaked my car the BMR kept the wheel hop in check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whammer Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 There seems to be different methods to achieving the same results in eliminating the wheel hop. Some say aftermarket LCA's, some say aftermarket LCA's with LCA relocation brackets and then some say just a aftermarket UCA and finally both aftermarket LCA's and UCA. Is there a definitive cure or more of a personel preference to get rid of the hop? BMR LCA cured it for me and even with 750HP (Super Snake) I had no wheel hop issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inyadreems Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Roush Wheel Hop Reduction kit, no increase NVH and wheel hop gone completely w/o the need to adjust or change anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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